The American colonial style, pronounced in the architecture of residential buildings, has recently become very popular among domestic developers. The reason for this is the combination of convenience, visual appeal and functionality of the building, where the living space is used with maximum efficiency. The American style house is ideal for families with an active lifestyle, especially couples with children.
American style house
American style building
What is a private American home? Usually it is a spacious two-storey frame-type cottage with a complex roof and a large number of windows. Most often, such houses have a symmetrical shape, many rooms, an open spacious terrace at the entrance.
The second floor, as a rule, protrudes above the first, and is supported by wide, even columns.
House with wide columns
This style has other distinctive features:
American-style country house
The color scheme is rather restrained: pastel colors are most often used in combination with white. But bright contrasting colors in facade decoration are very rare. As for outdoor decoration: the most popular material is wood of various species and its imitation.
Most often you can see facades sheathed with overlapping clapboard, the so-called "American". Well, since natural wood is a rather expensive material, many use siding that imitates the same American, timber, wood chips. Also, natural stone is used in the decoration, especially sandstone, decorative brick.
American style house with rich finishes
Great importance is attached to the landscape surrounding the house. As a rule, the adjoining territory is very well-groomed, open, the central part is occupied by a lawn.
Beds with low shrubs and flowers can be located close to the house, along the perimeter of the terrace, on both sides of the porch, giving the building a very cozy look. But climbing plants are not favorites, and you can see the walls completely entwined with decorative vines only in isolated cases.
American Style Wooden House
Most homes in America are built with basement and garage for two or three cars
It doesn't take much effort to make your home look like an American one. Even if the architecture of your home is extremely simple, using the exterior decoration can give it the characteristic look that we see so often in American films.The greatest expressiveness will be provided by the combination of materials and the correct selection of colors.
The best option is zoning the façade with wood sheathing and plaster.
Combination of plaster and wood paneling, American-style house project
How it looks in practice: the outer walls of extensions and bay windows are smooth plaster, the rest of the walls are sheathed with an overlap board. The gables of the house can also be distinguished by stitching them up with chipboard siding.
Shingled basement siding
If there is a high basement, it is faced with stone tiles or torn bricks. Finally, the paneling is painted beige or gray, the platbands, corners, and railings are painted white to add contrast.
Now let's consider the finishing technology in more detail using the example of a brick house.
For a high-quality finish, an equally high-quality base preparation is needed. Traditionally, they begin with the dismantling of all hinged elements that can interfere with finishing work.
With a metal brush, you need to process the masonry seams, thoroughly clean the crumbling areas.
We clean the wall
If the wall is old and individual bricks also began to crumble, they need to be knocked out with a chisel and hammer, and the grooves should be thoroughly cleaned .
We knock out the crumbled bricks with a chisel
Next, select whole bricks of the appropriate size, knead a little cement mortar (3 parts of sand and 1 part of cement M300 or M400), repair the masonry. Cracks in the walls, through holes, small potholes and empty seams are sealed with the same solution.
When the solution dries, the walls are treated with a primer with antiseptic additives.
It is best to prime with a brush, so the composition is easier to distribute over all seams and grooves. If the surface of the bricks is dense and smooth, one layer of primer is enough, but for a porous highly absorbent surface, 2-3 layers are needed. After such treatment, the walls under the cladding will be reliably protected from moisture and fungi.
How to repair a brick wall
Applying a primer to a brick wall
Deep penetration primer
First you need to determine the areas that are not planned to be sheathed with clapboard. It can be not only the walls of the outbuildings, but also the zones around the openings, along the terrace, the basement.
It is also possible when the facade is completely sheathed with wood, and the back of the house is plastered. It all depends on the imagination of the homeowner and his financial capabilities, because the cost of plaster is much lower than the lining.
To facilitate the task, it is recommended to draw a sketch of the future cladding in several versions and choose the most suitable one. After that, the boundaries of the sections on the wall are marked so that the wooden sheathing subsequently overlaps the plastered plane by 15-20 cm. The markings are performed using a level.
You need to start work with thermal insulation of the wall, and the best insulation for plaster is foam.
Step 1. A plinth strip is attached to a clean, primed wall, which will act as a support for thermal insulation plates. To do this, determine the lower border of the finish, beat off the horizontal by level, mark the drilling points for fasteners with a step of 30-40 cm. Drill holes in the wall, insert dowels, fix the basement strip with self-tapping screws.
At the joints, the strip is overlapped by 20 mm.
Fixing the base / plinth strip
Drilling an anchor hole
Fixing the profile on the wall
Step 2. Prepare the glue for the insulation: pour the dry glue mixture into the container with water, stir with a mixer until smooth, leave for 5 minutes to swell and mix again.
Adhesive mixture for fixing expanded polystyrene boards
Step 3. Take the first insulation board, from the back the sides are applied along the perimeter of the glue in a continuous strip at a distance of 2-3 cm from the edge.
In the center of the slab, glue is applied with small strokes or blotches. Next, the foam is applied to the wall from the corner, the lower edge is supported on the plinth strip, the plate is leveled vertically and gently pressed against the surface by hands.
Checking the strength of the base
Applying adhesive to the foam
Step 4. Attach the next slab close to the first, taking care not to squeeze the glue into the seam. After laying the first row, proceed to the second, shifting the seams by about half the width of the slab.
Immediately after applying the glue mixture, the thermal insulation boards are installed in the design position close to each other with a T-shaped bandaging of the seams
Foam around the door
Foam around the window, right right
Checking the evenness of the insulated wall
Gaps between the plates of more than 2 mm should be filled with strips cut from the foam plates
Aligning the foam
A sharp mounting knife or fine-toothed hacksaw is used to cut the foam.
How to cut the foam
When the entire area is covered with slabs, they are additionally fixed with disc dowels, drilling holes in the center of the slabs and along corners.
Method of fixing the foam with "drowning" the head of the dowel-umbrella
Step 5. Further, all corner protrusions must be closed with perforated corners: a solution is applied with a spatula along the entire length of the protrusion, a corner is applied, leveled, pressed into the glue. Excess mass is carefully removed so as not to leave sagging.
Perforated corners with mesh, fastening
Step 6. Apply the mortar in a continuous thin layer (thickness 2 mm) on the foam from top to bottom, apply a reinforcing mesh, smooth it with a spatula with effort in order to evenly drown it in the glue. It is necessary to smooth it very carefully, avoiding the formation of folds and voids under the mesh. Adjacent strips of mesh are overlapped by 5 cm. After completing the reinforcement of the site, the surface is left to dry.
How the fiberglass mesh is attached to the foam
Step 7. After about 2 days you can continue the plastering work. The surface is sanded with medium-grain sandpaper, dust is swept away with a brush and primed. After the primer has dried, the plaster mortar is kneaded and distributed in an even thin layer over the treated surface. You need to work very carefully so as not to leave stripes from the tool, drips and other defects.
The spatula should be periodically wiped off with a damp cloth.
After a day, the surface must be rubbed again to perfect smoothness. For the best effect, you can make a liquid plaster mortar, apply it very thinly to the wall and smooth with a polyurethane float. Movements are performed counterclockwise, with equal pressure, processing the wall in squares.
Grouting the applied plaster
At this, while the finishing process is completed, painting will be done later.
For such cladding, you can use both a simple edged board and "American" lining, which is distinguished by a wedge-shaped planks.
They are fastened in different ways, but the crate in both cases is put in the same way. When choosing an edged board, you need to make sure that the material is of good quality and its moisture content does not exceed 16%, so stock up on a moisture meter in advance.
Wood moisture meter
You should also not buy wood if there are visible spots of mold and blue, there are cracks, a lot of knots. All boards must be flat, of the same thickness and color.
The optimal width of the boards is from 130 to 180 mm, and the thickness is about 20 mm. For the frame, you will need a dry flat bar with a section of 50x50 or 60x40 mm.
A bar with a section of 50 * 50 mm
You can mount a frame made of a galvanized profile, but it will cost more, a wooden bar will do just fine with the task assigned to him.
Tip.Before starting work, all lumber must be treated with an antiseptic primer and dried in air.
Step 1. Make a marking on the wall for the frame fasteners. Since the sheathing is horizontal, the frame guides must be strictly vertical. If the cladding will adjoin the plastered surface on the same plane, the edge beam should be located close to the plaster. So, they take a plumb line or a level, determine the vertical, draw a line on the wall with chalk, and so on along the entire wall with a step of 50 cm.
Step 2. Next, holes are drilled on each line at a distance of 30 -40 cm apart, insert the dowels. They take the first beam, put it to the wall, control the vertical level. If the surface is uneven, pieces of wooden slats are placed under the beam until it is leveled. After that, screws are screwed in and the guides are fixed to the wall.
The extreme beams are attached first, then a nylon thread is pulled between them at the top and bottom, and the rest of the guides are aligned according to these landmarks.
Installing the frame on a brick wall
Attaching the battens to the wall
Step 3. The next stage is insulation. It is advisable to use the same insulation for the whole house, because each material has different heat capacity characteristics. Therefore, if we used polystyrene when plastering, then we also choose it for the cladding.
Styrofoam sheets are tightly inserted between the guides, if necessary, cut to size. Next, fix the material with mushroom dowels, about 5 pieces per sheet. If somewhere there are gaps between the insulation and the timber, they need to be blown out with polyurethane foam.
Step 4. Proceed to the casing.
To give it the desired angle of inclination, a wooden lath with a section of 20x20 mm is stuffed along the lower edge of the crate, having previously beaten off the horizontal at the level. After that, take the first board, apply it to the crate so that its bottom edge completely covers the rail. Nail the board with nails along the upper edge to the guides.
Overlapping sheathing - structural diagram
Step 5. The sheathing boards must overlap each other by 20 mm , and, in order not to measure the desired distance every time, you can use a template from trimming a wooden strip of the appropriate thickness.
This template is applied to the already fixed board in the upper part, a 20 mm indent is marked with a pencil, and the same is repeated on the other side. Now all that remains is to attach a new board to the marks and nail it to the frame.
The use of unedged boards in outdoor decoration
Step 6. Before fastening the topmost board, determine the border of the sheathing , beat off the horizontal and fasten the 25x75 mm rail along this line. Try on the edge board, if necessary, cut it in width and mount it end-to-end with the rail.
At the end, the joint line is closed with a board with a section of 150x25 mm.If the overhangs of the roof are hemmed with soffits, the outer board is fixed close to the soffits, and the joint is closed with a wooden strip.
Step 7. Two wide boards with a section of 150x20 mm are packed vertically in the corners, closing the gaps at the ends of the sheathing. Window and door openings are also sewn up on the sides with boards of the appropriate width in order to completely cover the end of the cladding.
If the factory-made American lining is chosen for finishing, the workflow will be even easier. The design of the panels contributes to the quick and convenient fastening of the cladding to self-tapping screws or using clamps.
Example of clapboard fastening with a clapboard
American wall decoration
Gables can also be trimmed with clapboard, but it is better if they are slightly different. And one of the finishing options is chip imitation siding. Chips and shingles give the building a special flavor, they are perfectly combined with other materials, but the process of their manufacture and installation is quite laborious.
For this reason, natural wood chips and shingles are almost never used, but their imitation is very popular and in demand.
Vinyl siding for chips is a lightweight panel with a width of 46-48 cm and a length of up to 1.23 m. The thickness of the material varies between 1-4 mm, depending on the type. The basement panels are thicker and more durable, but wall siding is mainly used for cladding the gables.
Step 1. A vertical lathing of 40x40 mm timber is mounted on the pediments. The distance between the guides should be equal to half the length of the panel, that is, about 60 cm.
Gable frame diagram
Pitch 2. The ebb is attached first: the plank is cut to length, applied to the bottom of the crate, aligned horizontally and screwed to the guides with self-tapping screws.
A starting bar is mounted on top, a J-profile is screwed on the sides close to the roof overhangs. The upper ends of the profile are cut at an angle to secure these strips butt-to-end.
Step 3. Cut the panels from the ends at an angle (for convenience, use template from scrap materials), the first panel is applied to the starting plate and the ends are brought into the J-profile. Align the skin horizontally and screw it to the guides with self-tapping screws.
Installation of siding on the gable
Installation of vinyl siding on the gable
Tip. As in the case of conventional siding, it is impossible to overtighten the fasteners, so as not to cause deformation of the panels. There should be a gap of 1 mm between the screw head and the vinyl.
Step 4. Panels in the same row are overlapped by several centimeters.
They have additional end locks that hide the joints and give the skin a natural look.The final panel is trimmed so that its edges fit freely into the slots of the J-profiles to compensate for thermal expansion.
If there are openings on the gables, additional jumpers are made in the frame along their perimeter, after which the slope planks are attached along with other additional elements. With this siding, you can sheathe not only the pediment, but also bay windows, balconies, one of the floors or the entire house, the basement - the choice depends only on your preferences and capabilities.
An example of finishing the front with siding
Chip siding does not require additional finishing, and therefore the work with the gables is considered complete.
As for the walls, there is still painting to be done to make the house look as attractive as possible. Plastered walls have a non-uniform, dirty color, and cannot be left like that, and wood sheathing requires increased protection, which will be provided by a layer of paint.
In principle, wood can be treated with colorless impregnation or varnish, leaving the natural color of the material. But this finish is more typical for country - one of the directions of the traditional American style. Therefore, for the walls you need to choose some pleasant color of a muted shade.
You can choose one color for both wooden paneling and plastered walls, or paint them in different shades, it all depends on your imagination. The main thing is that the colors are combined with each other and in harmony with the covering of the pediments.
Acrylic and silicone based water-borne paints are best suited for plastered areas. They are the most durable, resistant to fading, moisture and temperature extremes. It is convenient to apply them with a roller or spray gun.
Before painting, the walls must be swept with a brush to remove dust, and primed. The paint itself is applied in at least 2 layers - so the color will turn out to be deep and uniform.
Wooden paneling can be painted with alkyd enamel or the same acrylic paint. It is better not to use oil paints, since they require frequent renewal, and with a large area of painting it is very expensive. It is recommended to paint with a brush, carefully rubbing the composition along the fibers.
Particular attention should be paid to the joints and ends of the sheathing. As a rule, 2-3 coats of paint are required to obtain a uniform shade, depending on the absorbency of the wood.
Apply with a brush
Shades of painted lining
Painted panels on the facade
American style private houses
Posted By: Work Style |01, Nov 2020
Posted By: Work Style |01, Nov 2020
Posted By: Work Style |08, Nov 2020
Posted By: Work Style |01, Nov 2020
Posted By: Work Style |08, Nov 2020