The construction market is constantly replenished with new materials, it is difficult for an inexperienced developer to independently navigate in a wide variety. Moreover, many companies use incomprehensible names in order to increase product sales and increase their value. Very often, such an advertising campaign is triggered, the profitability of commercial activities increases without much effort.
Beveled larch planken
We are trying to give professional advice to website visitors, all our articles are not related to advertising manufacturers, the performance of materials is only objective. So what is planken?
This is an ordinary board made of various types of wood, planed on four sides, chamfered corners .
.. The thickness is about 20-24 mm, the length is from 2 m and more, taking into account the technological characteristics of the manufacturers. Depending on the geometry, planken is produced in three types:
Straight. The angle between edge and face is 90 °.
It is not recommended to use it for cladding houses for several reasons. Firstly, the wooden lathing is visible in the small gap between the individual boards. Secondly, rainwater penetrates through horizontal slots without problems, wooden structures become wet, as a result, rapid decay. And this is at best. It is recommended to use such a planken for the manufacture of various decorative fences, furniture elements, etc.
Beveled. The angle between edge and face is approximately 45 °. This type can already be used for external finishing of facade walls, due to the parallelogram, moisture penetration into the cracks is excluded.
Wedge-shaped. The thickness of the planken varies in width.
Has an original look and nothing more.
Now it is necessary to say a few words about the price of the "new" material. Why do we use quotation marks? Because the planed board has been known to builders for many hundreds of years, now this board was called planken and they are trying to pass it off as a new building material. For comparison, let's take the cost of European lining and larch planken. The same price proportions are maintained for other types of wood.
|Lumber grade||Euro larch lining||Larch planken|
|Extra||860 rub. / m2||1300 rub. / m2|
|Prima||595 rub. / m2||1100 rub. / m2|
|A|| 400 rubles. |
|750 rub. / m2|
|AB||280 rub. / m2||600 rubles. / m2|
Another point. To make a plank, you only need a four-side planer with straight cutters.
Straight cutters are easy to manufacture, it takes little time to sharpen, and it is much easier to set up flat cutters than with a complex profile used during the manufacture of lining.In addition, electricity losses are significantly reduced due to the fact that less wood is removed. As a result, the actual production cost of planken is much cheaper than the lining. How can you explain the high cost? There are two reasons. The first is the lack of understanding by inexperienced developers of the production technology and the mechanism of price formation.
The second is a successful advertising campaign. Both reasons ultimately force developers to buy material with fairly low performance at a very high price.
Beveled planken is made of natural wood of various species, it is a completely safe material. True, to improve the appearance and protect against putrefactive processes, the surfaces are impregnated and coated with special compounds, varnishes and paints. It is not recommended to use paints - the attractive natural drawing of the tree is lost.
Planken can be used for:
External cladding of brick, concrete and wooden facade walls. Sheathing is done both on new buildings and during major repairs or reconstruction. Due to the new type of facade, you can completely change the appearance of the house, the old building takes on a modern look. For planking sheathing, there is no need to restore the bearing characteristics of the foundations - the cost of work is significantly seduced.
Interior wall cladding.
The design of the premises is reminiscent of natural country houses, which is considered a fashion trend at the present time.
Sheathing of internal walls with planken
Manufacturing of furniture from natural wood, production of decorative elements.
An example of using planken in the manufacture of furniture
During the construction of fences and decorative fences. The structures have an excellent design, but not all developers can afford it at a cost.
For cladding facade walls, we recommend using the overlap method for straight and wedge-shaped or beveled planks with fastening with metal elements.
The peculiarities of the profile of the beveled planken exclude the ingress of moisture under the structure and make the places of fixing the boards to the supporting frame invisible. How to sheathe walls?
For example, let's take an old wooden blockhouse, we will tell you how to sheathe its facade walls with beveled planken. The fixing technology has its own characteristics associated with the specific requirements of the cladding. For fasteners, galvanized steel profiles are used. There are two options for the elements: "Wave" and "Snake", one long or two short.
The long "Wave" is fastened across the entire width of the planken, on one board to the left of the center of the vertical carrier rail, to the second on the right side. The second version of the "Snake" has short elements that are fixed with an offset of two on each board.
There is no fundamental difference in technology, for example we will take the "Wave" fasteners. For installation, you will need a cordless screwdriver or a drill with an extension cord, countersunk screws 2 and 4 cm long, a pencil, a square and a ruler. The size of the gaps between individual boards can be controlled with special factory plastic devices.
If they are not there, then cut strips from plastic 3-4 cm long, up to 1 cm wide and 2-3 mm thick.
They should be used after about one and a half to two meters of the board. Prepare all the tools, make space around the house. To facilitate the work, make a small table, on which you will screw the screws into the boards.
Calculate the area of the facade walls, purchase materials with a small margin. At the same time, purchase metal fixing elements and self-tapping screws. Boards need to be fixed at a distance of 0.5-0.6 m, why so close - we will tell in the article below.
Given the distance, count the number of rails and fasteners.
Practical advice. If it is not possible to purchase a plank of the same length as the walls of the building, then do not join the segments in one vertical line, this is very ugly. Make seams in opposite places across the same board. Consider this moment when fixing wooden slats, increase their number.
Docking the plank in a vertical line
Step 2. Examine the surface of the facade wall, outline mounting points for vertical rails. If there are large indentations or protrusions, remove them in any way possible.
Step 3. Attach the slats to the wall.
The thickness of the lumber is about 2 cm, the width is 4-5 cm, do not take it anymore. The fact is that the fasteners will be fixed on both sides of the center, a rail that is too narrow can crack.
We attach the slats to the wall
Step 4. Install two slats at the ends of the wall, the distance to the corner no more than 10 cm. Next to each door and window opening, slats are also needed at the same distance.
Check the vertical position with a plumb line or an accurate level. If the battens do not fit snugly against the wall, use different lengths of board for backing. If the boards are installed on a brick wall, then it is advisable to impregnate the slats with any antiseptic. Impregnation is not necessary for wooden structures.
We saturate the boards with an antiseptic
The lower ends of the rails should be strictly on the same horizontal; set all other rails along this line.The fact is that the lower edge of the first row of planken is fixed with angles to the ends of the rails. In the future, this place is closed with materials for finishing the basement.
Step 5. Pull the rope between the outer rails.
Check its distance to the wall at the points where the rails are fastened, if necessary, level them. Install all remaining slats. The position of the slats is much easier to adjust with perforated elements. They are fixed to the wall, the position of the slats is adjusted using the mounting holes.
We fix the remaining slats
In some articles you can find recommendations to mount steam and water protection on the walls. We consider this a waste of time and money. Wooden materials already perfectly "breathe", and the outer cladding of the facade walls protects from direct ingress of water. The beveled plank with edges overlaps the technological gaps, even multidirectional splashes of water, and not just rain drops, do not fall under them.
This completes the preparatory work, you can proceed to the direct installation of the beveled plank.
Remember that the boards are mounted only horizontally, otherwise moisture will get into the cracks. Installation technology has specific nuances, take this into account during the work. The bevels should be joined in such a way that the top board covers the bottom board.
Responsible manufacturers treat wood with antiseptics, if the boards are ordinary - soak them yourself. End joints need to be treated with special impregnation, there is a large selection of them in the store.
Sheathing should only be done in good weather. If the material is not immediately used, store it in covered areas. Make the topcoat with high-quality varnish for outdoor use, the number of layers is at least two. When choosing the length of the boards, try to keep them no more than three pieces in one row; up to 15% can be spent on trimming. Keep this in mind when calculating the cost of cladding materials.
The planks are fixed using the concealed Duet fastener, the metal elements are screwed in with self-tapping screws with hidden heads.
Two screws 4 * 25 mm are attached to the board and one screw 4 * 40 mm on a vertical rail ... Do not forget that the joining of the boards must be in order in a run across a row.
Step 1. Determine the location of the first row of planken. Place a plank against the wall and draw a horizontal line along the top edge on all vertical battens. Check position with laser or water level. Carefully control its position, it should be strictly horizontal.
Determine the location of the starting row
Step 2. Attach the starting rail or block at the line, select the screws taking into account the thickness. The starting rail will then be removed, the first row of planken will be fixed in its place.Install one fastening element between the starter rail and the vertical supports to create a technological gap. It will be needed during the installation of the planken.
Fixing the first row
Step 3. Start nailing the second row of sheathing. There are two methods for taking measurements. First, fold several rows of planks and draw vertical lines on them in the center of the vertical slats. We do not recommend using this method, there is a high probability of error.
Second - lean each board in turn against the wall and mark with a pencil the middle of all vertical posts. Then draw a line on the back with a square. Metal fixation elements will be fixed along it.
Step 4. Saw off the end joints of the boards at an angle of 90 °, and the corner joints at 45 °.
Be sure to treat the end surfaces with impregnation. Make sure that its remains do not fall on the front surface of the boards, varnish does not adhere to the impregnation. To minimize risks, use a washcloth instead of a brush. Press it gently to the joint, this method eliminates the appearance of streaks.
Cut the sheathing boards to the desired size
Mount the fasteners on the back of the board, one to the left, and the second to the right of the center line of the vertical rail.
Step 6. Install the cladding board on the facade. To do this, place the lower part of the "Duet" behind the mounting block in the gap between it and the rail, and attach the upper part to the rail with a 20 * 40mm screw. Attach the third row of boards in the same way.
Insert plastic devices between the boards to adjust the size of the gap. The gap is necessary, it will exclude the appearance of loads during the expansion of the boards. Once the plank is fully secured, remove the fixtures and use them when installing the next plank. Check the horizontal position of the trim from time to time. If deviations are found, then gradually correct them.
During alignment, move the boards no more than a millimeter, otherwise the non-parallelism of the joints will become noticeable.
Practical advice. To facilitate the inspection process, we recommend applying several marks along the entire height of the house on the vertical bearing rails under the level.
Step 7. Remove the setting block and start fixing the first (bottom) row of planken.
Attach the released lower part of the second row of metal fasteners with a screw to the vertical rail. Make marks on the board, screw only the upper elements of the "Duet" to them. At the bottom, screw a metal square in the center of the rail. The plane of the square must coincide with the plane of the board.
Screw the fasteners and elbow to the plank
Slide the first row sheathing board into place, push the upper fastener under the second board, and attach the lower edge with self-tapping screws through the corner to the ends of the rail.
Fasten the first row board
Continue cladding the facade according to the described algorithm. At the end of the work, apply the topcoat. As you can see, you will have to spend a lot of time for the production of work, make marks on each board, fix the fasteners, then attach them to the vertical rail. This not only increases the time of work, but also increases their cost.
A simpler method, each board is attached with two decorative nails. True, the opinions of designers about the advisability of using this method diverged, some consider the appearance of the facade with vertical rows of nail heads along the entire height of the facade wall attractive, others do not recommend using this method. Decide for yourself which method is right for you personally, no designer will live in this house. You build it for yourself and do only what you personally like.
Fixing the plank with nails
The boards are fixed with nails or self-tapping screws only in the upper part, the lower part of the next row covers the hats of the hardware of the previous one.
In this way, a wedge-shaped or straight plank is installed. Advantages - the plating process is shortened, if necessary, you can quickly change the boards. Disadvantages - the consumption of expensive material increases. Depending on the width of the overlap, the consumption increases by 10-15%. Design indicators are not unambiguous.
Fastening the plank with an overlap
Another myth of manufacturers - if necessary, the planken board can be replaced "easily and simply". In fact, the opposite is true, it is much more difficult to do this than to change a leaky lining on the skin. We do not consider the option of installing the plank with nails, this method of upholstery greatly impairs the appearance of the walls and is not used for facades. External walls are sheathed with metal additional elements, but it is difficult to dismantle the boards and replace them with new ones with such fixation. How is it done?
On the board to be replaced, tap the entire length of the board with a hammer. By changing the sound, it will be possible to find the location of the vertical slats, immediately mark their location with a pencil or chalk.
Step 2. With a sharp chisel and chisel, gradually chisel off the edge of the board approximately 10 cm long so that the rail is in the middle of the hole. The width of the hole is within 3 cm.
Perform this operation over the entire upper part of the plank in the places of fixation to the supporting vertical rails.
Step 3. Take a small grinder, insert a thin disc for metal. Carefully cut the metal fasteners. If you have regular planking, then pull the board towards you.
During this operation, the lower fixing elements are bent, pull the board up and remove them from the seat.If the plank is beveled, then you will have to saw off the lower metal mount with a grinder, it will not be possible to bend it towards yourself, the oblique edges interfere.
The new board will have to be fixed with ordinary studs, bite off the caps from them and use a small punch to carefully hammer into the board and rail. It is advisable in the future to cover the place of driving in a clove with varnish or putty to prevent corrosion. It is much easier to change a leaky lining, it can be blown up on nails driven into a thorn.
Take out the old one and insert a new one for a few minutes.
Replacing a leaky lining
When cladding facade walls, it is recommended reduce the distance between the vertical battens. The standard distance is 70-80 cm, we recommend setting them every 50-60 cm. Why? Again, compare planken with clapboard. The individual boards of the lining are connected to each other in a thorn-groove, due to this, the position is fixed along the entire length.
Do not believe the tales of planken manufacturers that in these places the lining cracks as a result of deformation. On the contrary, it is this method of fastening that guarantees the preservation of the plane under all operating conditions.
Planken boards are not interconnected in any way, the technology provides for mounting slots, each one is fastened individually, fixation is performed only on vertical carrier rails. Like any lumber, planken can deform when moisture changes, situations arise when one board remains flat, and the one next to it bends with a propeller. Reducing the distance between the fixation points is necessary in order to reduce the amount of deformation, it will become invisible.
Of course, such preventive actions increase the cost of the upholstery process and increase the time spent on construction work.
If you are covering baths with planken, be sure to keep an eye on effective natural ventilation. Do not close tightly the lower edge of the first row, leave air vents at the top of the rafter system.
Do not rush to make the final decision on the method of finishing the facade walls, weigh your wishes and possibilities, the advantages and disadvantages of building materials.
The finished result of planken finishing
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