Laminate is a special panel based on chipboard, as well as a pair of layers of paper impregnated with melamine resins and pressed into the board at high pressure. As a rule, a different pattern is applied to the paper, different in content and color. Moisture-repelling material is glued to the back of the strip. The most common pattern is "wood imitation", so it is often called laminated parquet.
You can determine the price in the store by comparing it according to price lists.
If you have already decided where the laminate will be laid in the house, decided on the color, texture, then you just have to choose the quality level and the manufacturer.
Laminate flooring means a large number of the following indicators:
Any laminate flooring has a technical passport, which clearly states its main qualities and indicators. Although it is difficult to obtain this document in the market. To deal with such a situation? First of all, you need to select the main properties and characteristics of the material from the list and compare only by them.
Today there are two types of options for choosing a laminate in a wooden house according to the method settings:
In the first method, laminate planks are glued to the floor. This method is quite complicated and will require the involvement of a certain specialist. And such a floor is quite difficult to understand. The main advantage is the reasonable price of the material.
The floating method is the installation of laminate plates in a tenon-groove system. This prefabricated laminate has two advantages: ease of installation and the ability to easily dismantle and disassemble the entire coating using warm floors.
Upper protective the layer of the laminate is an acrylate film made of special resins. This floor covering is very durable and can be either single layer or double layer. Sometimes the material is subjected to special treatment, and the upper part is covered with a non-electrifying special film.
The upper protective layer provides high resistance against various kinds of scratches and other damage.
The next layer is decorative. It is presented in the form of paper with a pattern impregnated with resin.
Fiberboard has a high density and is the main layer. Typically 7.
7mm thick.It has high mechanical strength, water resistance, and a reduced content of formaldehyde resins. This plate provides the product with resistance to long-term high loads and impact resistance.
The very last layer is considered to be a stabilizing one - this is paper impregnated with a special resin or waxed.
Additional layers may also be present in the composition of the material, their main function is to increase a certain indicator of the laminate of a country house.
As a rule, this is a characteristic film between the main and decorative layers, which is necessary to impart high strength to the coating.
When renovating a home, a situation often arises when outdated floors need to be covered with new flooring.
In this case, most professionals advise, before installing the laminate, to completely remove the old coating and fill in a new concrete screed, perfectly leveling the floors.
Although, screed removal and pouring is often more expensive than a new coating, so the main question arises: how to choose a good laminate on the floor, install it, and at the same time dismantle it?
Consider the surface requirements for installing a laminate.
The first step is to take a close look at the wooden floors.
The old, multi-colored coating has a convex surface - this is due to numerous layers of paint in the center of the board and partial destruction along its edges.
If the wooden board is relatively new, then the floor surface will be flat, without sudden changes.
Be sure to check that the floor does not bend and make sure that the wooden planks are firmly attached to the joists. In addition to unevenness, the wooden floor can have a certain slope towards the corners or the center of the room, this can be checked using a laser or a bubble level. This disadvantage also needs to be removed before installing the laminate.
Old boards with differences in height can be leveled in two ways:
If the wooden planks sag, check the condition of the wooden logs.
To do this, it is necessary to determine the place where the log passes, where the deflection is observed, and cut out a part of the wooden board.
This can be done with a jigsaw, and its blade should be positioned at an angle so that the cut wooden part forms a narrowing towards the bottom.
You can easily put back the part of the board cut in this way without any fastening.
Inspect the logs through the resulting hole, and if they sag, drive a special wooden wedge under them until they are completely aligned.
Before leveling the floor with an electric plane, you need to eliminate all squeaks by fixing the wooden boards to the logs with long screws. They are screwed both into the holes and next to them.
Nails and screw caps must be sunk to a depth of about 2 mm. After leveling, the floor must be swept up, soaked with an antiseptic or drying oil and dried. Next, you can lay the laminate in a wooden house.
The direction of the entire installation is chosen so that all the joints of the laminate are strictly perpendicular to the floorboards - this will significantly reduce possible deflection in the future.
If the wooden boards have differences in height, but the overall slope of the wooden floor is acceptable, then the floor is simple sheathed with 12 mm plywood sheets, fixing them directly to the boards.
To avoid squeaks, you need to fix the plywood sheets with screws or nails through the boards to the logs.
Minor irregularities and dips can be easily corrected with plywood or block pads. If the existing irregularities are more significant and reach 5 cm, you will have to level the wooden floor using guides from a bar.
You need to calculate in advance the required number of bars of different thicknesses to make it easier to adjust the height. First, cut out the plywood, lay it on the old floor.
All the joints of the plywood sheets are drawn on the floor with a special marker - this will make it easier for you to lay the bar. Next, the bar is fixed to the floor in 60 cm increments, while supporting bars must be installed. For additional sound insulation and thermal insulation, the entire space between the floor and the plywood sheets is filled with insulation. Plywood sheets are fastened to self-tapping screws, flush with their caps flush with the floor surface. The gap between the plywood sheets and the walls is 5 mm.
Leveling the floor in this way entails raising it relative to the level of the wooden floor in the house, and, possibly, will require replacement of doors in the future.
The plywood floor is ready for laying and installing the laminate. A special polyethylene foam backing will be needed under the laminate.The backing is used to avoid knocking the laminate against the backing. As a rule, the thickness of the substrate is 3 mm, but during use it cakes, so there is no point in purchasing a thick substrate.
The substrate is laid on the wooden floor end-to-end, while all the joints are glued with construction tape to fix it on the floor.
Before laying, the laminate must be kept in the room for about 2 days so that it becomes the same temperature and humidity as the given room.
Before you start laying, you need to decide on the installation method. The diagonal installation requires a good fit, and is intended for narrow rooms to visually enlarge them. As a rule, the new laminate is laid perpendicular to the window - this way the joints will be least noticeable.
After the chosen direction of laying, it is necessary to measure the distance between the two walls and calculate the required number of laminate boards, and the width of the last board is obligatory. When the width of the last plank is less than 1/3, start laying the first row of boards cut in half. The sawn-off laminate pieces are useful for the last row.
Laminate comes in three main types: with "Click", "Lock" locks, and adhesive laminate. Laminate with "Click" fastening is installed at an angle of 45 ° to the previous board.
This system is easy to mount and dismantle. The "Lock" is secured by lightly tapping from the opposite end of the board until it clicks, and the tenon of the laminate board is inserted into a defined groove.
Tap the laminate through a special block. Adhesive laminate is used in humid rooms; specialized glue is used to install it.
Installing the laminate with the "Click" lock is done in rows.
The first thing they do is fasten the ends of the first row of laminate boards, then level them and wedge them between the walls using thin strips . This is necessary to create a certain gap that will regulate the thermal expansion of the entire coating. The second row is assembled in the same way and, putting it at a certain angle to the first, they snap it into the lock. Therefore, it is necessary to continue laying to the end of the entire room.
Laminate with a lock of the "Lock" type is laid apart - this helps to fix the boards into a single monolithic surface.
It is necessary to measure the length of the board, room, and calculate the exact number of boards in a row. If you have half of the last board left during the installation process, then use it at the beginning of the second row. It is also necessary to leave a special gap between the wall and the covering of about 5 mm.
Glue-type laminate is laid in the same way, but the groove-thorn is impregnated with glue in the place of the lock, and after installation, the boards are temporarily fastened with construction tape. After finishing the installation, remove all wedges and install the skirting boards.
The best laminate will always be the one that is environmentally friendly, will not harm your health, will be beautiful and durable for many years.
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