The construction of a private house implies not only its interior decoration, but also the cladding of the outer part, that is, the facade. The most popular solution today is siding, that is, panels of different materials with a lock and an edge. It has a number of valuable advantages, excellent performance and attractive appearance. Siding can be smooth and glossy, imitate the structure of wood or stone, so it will perfectly fit into any landscape. The most important thing is to choose the right material and lay it according to all the rules.
Facade cladding with siding
Facade decoration with siding
Depending on the material from which the siding is made, it can be wood, polyvinyl chloride (vinyl), acrylic, fiber cement or metal (steel, zinc, aluminum ). All types of finishes differ in cost, durability, resistance to all kinds of damage and other characteristics.
|Facade decoration with siding||Type of siding||Disadvantages|
|Can reproduce any texture, looks good, has a wide range of colors. Sheathing made of this type of siding is resistant to negative factors (can be operated at temperatures from -50 to +50), is lightweight and has an acceptable price||At high humidity and a sharp temperature drop, it can deform, is afraid of mechanical damage, has a relatively short service life|
|Resistance to fading in the sun and high temperatures (up to +85 degrees), excellent strength characteristics, resistance to chemicals, non-flammable||High cost|
|The material is strong and durable, resistant to temperature extremes, does not promote the growth of fungal spores and harmful microorganisms||Low sound insulation, the possibility of peeling of the coating from the metal base at the cut. Aluminum siding is subject to mechanical damage, after which it is no longer possible to return it to its original appearance|
|High environmental friendliness, thermal insulation, a variety of textures and patterns on the cut||Insufficient strength, fragility, the ability to catch fire and deformation, difficulty in maintenance, high cost|
| The material is capable of replacing natural stone, as it is made from cement, water, sand and cellulose. |
Resistant to weathering, not subject to corrosion, decay, does not contribute to the development of fungus and mold, ease of use
|High price, difficulty in purchasing (practically not common in Russia)|
When it comes to color solutions, the most common are pastel materials - they are much cheaper than bright siding (this is due to the addition of expensive components that prevent the finish from fading in the sun).
Variety of metal siding color palette
Variety of siding colors
The vinyl material should be said separately, as it is considered the most practical and inexpensive option for finishing the facade of any building. It is made of PVC panels and is presented in a large assortment in any specialized store or in the construction market. In addition, vinyl panels are quite easy to install, so you can do all the work yourself.
In order not to make a mistake when choosing and installing siding, it is necessary to deal with the varieties and additional elements of the material.
Depending on the design characteristics and installation features, siding is divided into several types.
Vinyl panels can be horizontal or vertical. The second type is less familiar to the domestic consumer, since in Russia, horizontal panels are more often used for finishing buildings.
To choose the right type of material, you should take into account some structural differences between horizontal and vertical siding.
Theoretically, vertical siding can be mounted horizontally, but without the appropriate experience and knowledge, it is quite difficult to do this - the installation may end up being incorrect, which will lead to water leakage and other troubles.
Otherwise, these types of siding practically do not differ from each other, since they are made of the same material, and also require compliance with certain rules during installation.
Vertical or horizontal siding?
Options for the location and joints of siding
This type of material is intended for cladding vertical surfaces and, in turn, is divided into several types:
Siding Herringbone Docke D5C
The main difference between the ship board and the herringbone is the presence of a characteristic break in the center of the panel, with the first type being the most common in Europe and Russia, and the second in the United States and Canada. Siding types are marked with the Latin letters T (triple herringbone), D (double) and S (single). The lettering is followed by a number that denotes the width of the panel - for example, the mark S 4.5 denotes a single herringbone panel with a bend thickness of 4.5 inches (approximately 114 mm).
Basement siding is a material used to clad the bottom of a building. They are twice as thick as conventional cladding panels, due to which they are characterized by increased strength, not subject to deformation and all kinds of damage. At the same time, the mass of the panels is very small, that is, for their installation, it is not required to additionally strengthen the foundation.
Dimensions of basement panels
Basement siding "DOCKE"
Soffit is essentially a ceiling siding, which is used to cover the protruding part of the roof and finish ceilings in attics and attics. Such panels not only give the building a perfect and finished look, but also protect the space under the roof from precipitation, insects, etc.
Structurally, they are divided into two- and three-lane, and in addition, they are perforated, mixed and non-perforated.
Any building can be sheathed with similar structures.
Perforated corrugated soffit
Soffits for the roof
For siding cladding to look attractive, it is necessary to use not only panels, but also profiles and accessories that give it a complete look.
Additional elements for siding
These additional elements include:
Accessories for metal siding
Additional elements for installation siding
It should be noted that all of the above accessories for siding panels may differ in width, length and configuration, and these characteristics are unique not only for the products of a particular manufacturer, but also for each line of facing material.
Installation of siding panels is a fairly simple, but painstaking and time-consuming task that requires not only accuracy and accuracy, but also strict adherence to installation rules.
The technology and sequence of installation of siding panels depends on the characteristics of the material and surface, but there are several general points that should be kept in mind when performing work.
Fastening the siding to the crate
How to work with siding
Do not forget to control the horizontalness of the panels
If this is not possible, you should carefully widen the hole with a puncher (you cannot drive nails into the end of the hole, otherwise you can seriously damage the panel).
Error 1. Installers screw the self-tapping screw not into the center of the perforation
Error 2. Installers screw the self-tapping screws all the way into the perforation, this cannot be done
Remember thermal gaps
The process of installing siding panels consists of several stages, and they must be performed in a specific sequence - only in this case the result will fully meet expectations.
Installation of siding begins with calculating the required amount of material. To do this, you can use special calculators on construction sites or a simple formula. The building should be broken down into simple geometric shapes, their areas should be measured and the resulting numbers should be summed up.In addition, it is necessary to draw up a detailed diagram of the building cladding, which will indicate all the necessary profiles and accessories, as well as their location. It should be remembered that approximately 10% of the total material will be used for trimming and trimming, and if the work is done for the first time, some elements may be damaged.
Calculation of the facade area
Computer program for siding calculation
Calculation of the areas of ordinary siding: a - along the walls; b - along triangular pediments; c - along broken pediments; d - for dormer and attic windows
Calculation of the area of soffits
After purchasing siding, you can proceed to the main stages of work, and the first of them is the preparation of improvised tools and materials.
Siding panels for installation and materials for the manufacture of the battens must be absolutely intact, without cracks, chips and flaws. If the work is planned to be carried out in the winter, the siding should be allowed to "lie down" outside at a temperature of at least 15 degrees.
Grand Line siding
This is how siding looks like
In addition, you will need to prepare fasteners (screws, nails, staples) that will not fit into the material less than 20 mm, and a range of tools needed to clad the building.
It happens that when working with panels it is necessary to dismantle one or several of them, so it is better to get the necessary tool in advance, something like a hook.
Special tools: a - expansion of existing holes with a perforator; b - punching the hooks on the cut piece of siding; c - dismantling (installation) of siding with a hook
In addition to all of the above, you should prepare a hammer, jigsaw, level, tape measure and a piece of chalk to perform the work, and it is better to protect your eyes with special glasses.
Proper preparation of the walls is a guarantee that the siding will look neat and attractive. It is best to mount the panels on top of the moisture-proof material (it is not necessary to lay the waterproofing, but experts recommend protecting all the places where the siding will come into contact with the building walls and holes).
Before starting work, the old finish must be dismantled from the surface, as well as all elements that may interfere with the installation: shutters, gutters, etc., and the surface of the walls must be cleaned of dirt and dust.
Preparing the walls
Before installing the battens, check the reliability of all building elements: for example, replace all loose and broken boards. For the construction of the frame for siding, dry and straight bars of appropriate sizes (usually 4x6 cm) are taken without signs of rot, stains or deformations, and they should be pre-treated with antiseptics and fire retardants (substances that prevent combustion).
A more reliable, but rather expensive solution is a galvanized profile, which is mounted in the same way as a wooden frame.
The 60x27 profile rests against the horizontal 28x27
Installation of vertical racks in the horizontal profile
Docking metal battens at the corner of the building
Battens on the lintel between the door and the window on the second floor
If horizontal siding is used for cladding, the frame guides are fastened vertically, and vice versa. The distance between them should be 30-40 cm (in regions with difficult weather conditions - about 20 cm). Additional slats are installed around door and window openings, below and above the facade, as well as where additional accessories (for example, lamps) will hang.
All parts must be mounted evenly, from time to time checking them with a level.
You can fasten the lathing elements in any way, but ordinary nails are the best option. If the frame is mounted on concrete or brick, holes should be made in the walls with a puncher in advance. Places where siding will come into contact with building materials should be reliably sealed to protect them from moisture and frost.
The most important stage of building cladding is the installation of panels on the crate.
It should be carried out as accurately and accurately as possible, in compliance with the rules listed above. The actual algorithm for installing siding panels is as follows.
Setting the ebb
Step 1. Determine the point from which the installation will start. To do this, find a point in the lower guide of the frame, step back 50 mm from it, put a mark and screw in the self-tapping screw slightly.
Move consistently along the perimeter of the building, continuing to mark and screw in the screws. They also need to be screwed into the corners of the building.
Step 2. Pull a string between the corner marks, mark on the battens of the battens the places where the corner profiles will be installed (it is with them that the installation begins). Attach a profile to the corner of the frame and place the marks along the edges with chalk, and then attach it to the crate.
The rest of the corner profiles, external and internal, are fastened in the same way, and the fastening must be started from the upper hole, from top to bottom.
Setting the outer corner
Installation of corner profiles
3 options for the implementation of internal corners for siding cladding
Fastening and location H- profile on the crate
Step 3. After the corner elements are installed, you can proceed to the installation of accessories on window and door openings: platbands, ebbs and finishing strips.
Window finishing scheme
Step 4. Moving along the rope perimeter, make a 6 mm indent from the edges of the corner profile and attach the start profile and then the first start panel.
If it is attached correctly, all the rest of the siding will also fit as it should. Be sure to leave a centimeter gap between the elements to compensate for possible thermal deformation of the vinyl. Do not fasten the panels too tightly - there must be a gap of at least 1 mm between the head of the fastener and the surface of the material. Also, do not pull the panel upwards, otherwise it may crack or deform.
Installation of the starting profile
Attaching the starting profile over the low tide
Installing the first siding panel and correctly engaging the profile lock
After attaching the accessories, installation is performed cladding panels, which is performed from the bottom up, starting from the starting ones. The panel is inserted into the first in a row and mounted to the frame with hardware, and they must be driven in, starting from the center and moving towards the sides. The panels should be placed one on top of the other in height: the lower lock of the higher element enters the lock connection of the lower one. Panels can be assembled into sections of arbitrary height and width, depending on the design solution. If the panel covers the opening of a window or door, it is necessary to cut off the extra piece so that it fits between the casing or other accessory.
Extending (joining) siding panels along the length
Fixing the first panel
The screw is placed in the middle of the hole
Installation of siding
The siding panels are very tightly joined together
Step 6. The last top row is installed only after finish line. It is necessary to nail the J-profile close to the roof, measure the distance between its lower part and the panel lock of the penultimate row. Subtract 1-2 mm from the obtained figures for the gap.Take the whole panel, mark it so that it fits between the J-profile and the bottom panel, cut off the top part together with the lock.
Installing the J-profile and the last panel
Fixing the siding finish panel in the lock
Step 7. On the top of the prepared panel, create so-called hooks every 20 cm - make small cuts and bend them to the front side. Insert the cut part into the bottom panel and snap it into the lock joint with a slight movement.
Completion of the siding cladding
In the photo - installation of the finishing strip
Step 8. The final step is facing the roof gables.
The work is carried out as follows: the J-profile is attached along the corner of the pediment (if more than one element is required, you need to attach the second 2 cm overlap).
We fasten the outer corner (before that we had to make the corners from the profile for its attachment), then the J-profile along the upper border of the siding, retreating the distance for hemming the lining from the bottom of the roof
J-profile connection, almost invisible from afar
Step 9. Measure the angle slope the roof and cut the siding appropriately. Most likely, the last panel will have to be nailed with a fastener. This is the only case when it is allowed to drive a nail or screw a self-tapping screw directly through the panel.
Trimming the edges of siding panels for insertion into an inner corner or J-profile
While installing siding
The only time a siding panel can be attached directly through vinyl is the last panel
This is where the installation of siding panels is complete. If everything was done as needed, the result of the work will be an aesthetic, reliable and durable cladding.
It should be noted that vertical siding is installed in a similar way. The only difference is that the lathing for its installation should not be vertical, but horizontal.
Frame house, sheathed with OSB, insulated, with external trim with Grand Line siding
House of expanded clay block with external decoration
If the panel has been damaged and a new one must be replaced, work is performed as follows .
Dismantling an ordinary siding panel
Maintenance of siding panel cladding is much easier than maintenance of other cladding. It needs to be rinsed from time to time with a hose, and use a soft brush or rag to remove stubborn stains. In order not to damage the material, do not use abrasive household products and hard tools at hand.
In addition, you should not clean siding with chlorine bleach, organic solvents, substances that contain acetone or are used to polish furniture. Contaminants from its surface are well removed with a solution of water with washing powder, as well as any water-based cleaners. If you need to remove the chewing gum from the panel, you can use a solution of water and vinegar.
Maintenance of vinyl siding
Siding is one of the most modern, practical and inexpensive facing materials for facades of any buildings. In addition, as you can judge from this article, the installation of siding panels is a painstaking but doable task, so we can confidently say that finding the best solution for your own home will be very difficult.
Posted By: Work Style |09, Nov 2020
Posted By: Work Style |06, Nov 2020
Posted By: Work Style |02, Nov 2020
Posted By: Work Style |06, Nov 2020
Posted By: Work Style |05, Nov 2020