Complete renovation of the bathroom in the house: Instruction + Photo and Video

Complete renovation of the bathroom in the house: Instruction + Photo and Video Complete renovation of the bathroom in the house + photo. So, this time we propose to figure out how to repair a bathroom in the house and equip it, but without a specific project - this is at your discretion. And, nevertheless, since the room in all cases will have common parameters, we will consider how to make them. Moreover, ceramic tiles are most often used in sanitary facilities.

We will talk about this in the article.


As a rule, everything begins with the creation of those systems that are not visible, but at the same time they play an important role:

  • Regardless of what the measurements will be in the bathroom of a private house, you will need to bring the sewage system outside the house, that is, on the street, where you need to install a septic tank or at least a storage tank.
  • When laying pipes, it is best to avoid right angles as this increases the risk of blockages. That is why if you really need to make a 90-degree turn, then use a pair of 45-degree fittings or all three 30-degree fittings for this.
  • Moreover, if the section of the pipeline is more than 6 meters, then it will be necessary to install an audit on it. If in the house it will be enough just to embed the fitting, then on the street you will need to install an additional element, namely a viewing well.

  • When laying the sewage system with your own hands, according to the instructions, you must observe a certain slope, which is shown in the table above.
  • The fact is that a decrease or increase in the slope will lead to the fact that the solid remains will no longer be washed away, and water will simply flow through them, while they cannot be from the walls of the pipes.
  • There is no 32nd pipe in the special tables to help with the selection of sewer pipes, which is usually used for washing machines and dishwashers. But in this case, the runoff will turn out to be forced, therefore, even with a technical need, construction allows a small counter-slope.

  • An ordinary cesspool can also be used for draining, but still it is not at all hygienic, and an unpleasant smell will spread throughout the territory of the site.

  • Complete renovation of the bathroom in the house: Instruction + Photo and Video For this reason, we propose to consider how to create a septic tank from concrete rings with your own hands, because it is several times cheaper than buying similar, but finished.
  • To begin with, the first two containers, which are in the schematic image, will be required to play the role of coarse filters - in them heavy particles will settle to the bottom.
  • The third tank will play the role of a fine filter, but it is better to deepen it to the sandy layer, since wastewater will definitely not interfere there.
  • If you are building a septic tank, then do not forget that this facility is potentially hazardous to the environment. Because of this, it is required to install it at a certain distance from some objects, in particular, from residential ones.

  • Such distances are indicated in the image with the diagram and if you adhere to them, then you will never have problems with the sanitary epidemiological station or with your neighbors.
  • In addition to the remoteness of the septic tank from various objects, you should hydro-insulate each tank, and it is best to do this with tar, at least it is the cheapest of all possible options.
  • If you live in the northern regions of Russia, then you will have a question about pipe insulation, because in some places the depth of freezing of the earth is more than 2 meters.
  • In hardware stores, you can find special cylinders made of mineral wool, extruded polystyrene foam and expanded polystyrene, but this pleasure is very expensive. Practical summer residents prefer to replace this with a simple winding with mineral or basalt wool, and cover the insulation on top with roofing material for waterproofing.

Please note, that when laying pipes in a trench, you will need to fill the entire bottom with sand, and then lay the pipeline under the desired slope and fill more sand from above at least 5 cm, and better for all 10. After that, the sand should be well watered, and then it will settle in 30 minutes, then you can throw earth into the pipes.

Water supply

While it is far from the direct repair of the bathroom in a private house, consider how to make a water supply. For water intake (if there is no centralized water supply near your house), you will need to use a submersible pump for a well or well. The power of such a device will depend on the amount of water that is consumed in your household, but to get at least a rough idea of ​​the volume, use the table below.

Bathroom name Water consumption, m 3 / hour
Washbasin tap 0.43
WC 0.43
Sink valve 0.72
Dishwasher 0.72
Washing machine 0.


Shower cabin 0.72
Bath 1.15

Suppose that you have already selected the pump you need with the required power and at the same time the dynamic level (flow rate) of the well, in order to always have an uninterrupted water supply. You will also need the installation of a pumping station, which will have a reserve tank, automation and sensors.

The easiest way to do this is in a pit, which can be installed in a house or in one of the outbuildings.

This way you can hide the entire station so that it does not bother your eyes. Regardless of how far the well will be located to the house and its depth, you will need to build up an electrical cable that will power the submersible pump. For splicing, it will be most convenient to use a terminal box, which has four inputs and outputs, as shown in the photo.

Unfortunately, this is not always possible and sometimes it is necessary to perform a direct connection straight into the trench. This will require the use of thermal shrinkage - such insulation will not allow moisture to pass through and can be used underground with a clear conscience.

To connect the pump to the distribution unit, it is definitely worth using a polyethylene hose with a diameter of 3.2 cm (someone uses metal-plastic, but we do not recommend it). The size of the reserve tank is also of great importance - the larger it is in capacity, but the less the number of shutdowns and starts of the engine will turn out, but for household needs you will need 100 liters.

Please note, that according to the factory settings of the sensor, the pump starts at a pressure of 2 atm, and stops at 3 atm. But if you want to increase the gap, then you should set the switch on to 1.

5 atm, and the off to 5 atm.

If polypropylene pipes with a diameter of 9 cm are used for heating, then the 20th pipe is used for water supply, that is, 1.5 cm in diameter. Pay attention to the welding time and depth, this is extremely important, since with insufficient depth and holding time, the brazing will become weaker, and the search for parameters will lead to the fact that there will be sagging in the middle of the pipe and its diameter will narrow.

All polypropylene pipes can be divided into those that are intended only for cold water, reinforced.

Naturally, different markings can be used for cold and hot water pipes when making repairs in the bathroom in the house. But the fact is that the PN-20 pipe is universal, and is capable of withstanding a pressure of 20 bar, 2 MPa at a nominal temperature of 80 degrees, which means that it is ideal for both hot and cold water supply, which is extremely convenient and reliable ... Such a pipeline can be hidden under a layer of plaster and not be afraid of anything.

The principle of pipe fixing is as follows - brown should be used to denote a wall, gray strobes, red pipes, white hangers, and screws are indicated by crosses. If plastering is planned in the bathroom, then the pipes should be hidden in the grooves, since you can make a beautiful bathroom only with closed communications. To hold polypropylene pipes in the channel, they should be pressed with the help of perforated tape hangers. But if you have drywall, then the strobe is not required, and the pipes can be pressed directly to the wall with the same suspensions.

Electrical wiring

It should be noted right away that there is no such thing as "the optimal size of the bathroom", since everything will depend on the possibilities and desires owners.

Also, the size will depend on how many lighting fixtures you will have, which can be built-in and overhead, ceiling and wall.Naturally, recessed luminaires look gorgeous, but this requires a tall room in which you can make a suspended ceiling with a depth of 10 cm in order to fit the inside of the cartridge. If an electric boiler is placed in the bathroom, then it will need to be connected with a separate wire (this will require a copper wire with a cross section of 2.5 mm), and a similar wire will be required to connect the washing machine to the machine.

Please note that both of these devices will need to be protected with circuit breakers that can trip in the event of a short circuit or heavy load.

If you plug the washing machine into an outlet, then it is not required for the boiler - the machine is enough, since after a while the outlet will start to melt due to the weakening of the terminals.

The evenness of the walls

So, we will continue the topic of how to make repairs in the bathroom at home with our own hands, and for laying tiled coatings will first need to make a flat rough surface - it can be lighthouse plaster or drywall. The diagram below shows the rules for installing beacons. They should be fixed on the sand-cement mortar at a distance that is at least 20 cm less than the length of the building rule to be used. Nylon threads should be pulled diagonally and horizontally so that they do not touch the crest of the profile (distance 0.

1 cm).

A similar principle can be used when installing beacons under the screed, on the floor, as well as to the frame made of CD profiles for drywall sheets, only in this case the step will be 0.4 meters - 4 CD for each sheet. Tiling in the bathroom will require green sheets, although in a pinch it is allowed to use standard wall sheets (but not recommended).

After the plastering beacons are installed, you can proceed directly to plastering the next day.

The main thing is that the cement-sand mortar sets, but not earlier, because otherwise you will knock down all the profiles with the rule. The mixture should be thrown with a spatula or trowel between the beacons, and then pulled down with a rule from the very top, and remove all unnecessary. But keep in mind that after the passage there will be pits and grooves that will immediately need to be repaired and walked over again with the rule and so on until the surface becomes smooth. There may be 4 or 10 such passes, but the better the sand you sifted for the solution, the fewer the furrows.

Some of the masters do not consider it necessary to grout the tile surface after plastering, then this is wrong.

After processing with a scraper or grater, the wall becomes smooth and it is convenient to use it for further finishing. Usually grouting is done the next day or even after 5 hours - when irregularities appear from the floor, crumbling pieces of mortar are collected, slightly moistened and the surfaces are sealed. There is no need to wait long for laying tiles - you can install the coating immediately after grouting, but to create a screed, you will need to wait from 5 days so that you can walk on it.

If we are talking about drywall, then everything is a little faster and easier, as there are no "wet" works, but there are problems with how to hang mirrors, cabinets, boilers or the same sink. For this reason, it is best to use OSB or boards to create a solid foundation, as shown in the photo above.

The wood should be fixed flush with the profile and the fastening can be fixed into it. But for the boiler, due to its large weight, something more reliable will be required, so the board will need to be bolted to the wall with anchor bolts, but be sure to do this flush with the profile.

Finishing the floor, walls and ceiling

When choosing ceramic tiles, you should check their quality and here we include not only appearance, but also evenness, everything should be perfect. To check such parameters, you will need to press two tiles with their front surfaces to each other, and if a gap of at least 0.1 cm is found, then you have defective products.

When laying, such a tile will have "teeth" - the edges protrude, or it will be convex, which is also not very beautiful.

Moreover, the diagonal may be knocked off the material, and to check, you should attach two copies to each other with the same surfaces, put the ends on a flat surface and check the height of the corners. If you notice that there is a discrepancy of at least 0.1 cm, then the diagonals are knocked down and you will need to correct everything with plastic crosses, since the seams may not turn out to be the most even. Naturally, grout will hide such errors well, but people may have different requirements and for some even a layer of 0.

1 cm will be a real problem.

Ceramic tiles are best laid on a tile adhesive like Cerisite and it will be most convenient to use a comb trowel, the depth of the teeth of which is 1 cm (after installation, the layer will be compressed to 0.5 cm). It is best to start with the second row, counting it so that the top row is uncut - it will be a little prettier this way. It is better to install the lower row at the very end, when the floor is covered - the cut pieces can cover the edges of the floor, especially since you can install a special plastic corner or plinth.

Projects for the renovation of bathrooms in a private house make it possible to install ceramic tiles on the ceiling, and for this, it is better to use drywall sheets as a rough surface. Naturally, a huge load will turn out, therefore C D profiles should be installed in increments of 0.3 meters, and not 0.4 as according to the standard, it turns out 5 pieces per sheet. Such a structure will be able to cope with the loads from adhesives and ceramics, and this has been proven by many years of experience.

Grouting can be done when you remove the spacing crosses.After covering the seam, slide your finger over it - the mixture should drown a little, and then the seam will be beautiful and even. When grouting, the tiles should be wiped every 20 minutes, as after that the solution will dry out and it will be extremely difficult to remove it.

The ceiling can be simply filled over the ceilings, but it can also be made in the form of a pendant to install recessed luminaires. Suspended ceilings can be made from plasterboard sheets, slats, PVC panels.

In addition, with tiles on the walls, a stretch PVC ceiling (glossy, matte and semi-matte) will look great.

Installation of sanitary-type units

Toilet bowls should be selected according to the type of outlet, and this will be directly related to the way in which you decided to bring the fan tee - from the floor, from walls, obliquely or at right angles. For the connection, you can use a plastic (i.e. PVC) corner, or a standard corrugation.

This will only depend on your desire, but for oblique releases, it is the corrugation that is best suited. If you are laying ceramic tiles on the floor, it is better not to install the toilet bowl earlier than 6 days later - while the solution is fresh, the tiles may begin to crack or the dowel will simply not be able to withstand due to lack of expansion.

It is best to mount the toilet on silicone for several reasons:

  1. Complete renovation of the bathroom in the house: Instruction + Photo and Video Sand can get under the sole and squeak a lot.
  2. The sole itself may become uneven, causing the toilet to wobble.

To do this, put the toilet in its original position, circle the base with a marker, and then mark the holes for the wall plugs for the toilet.

Then you can move the toilet to the side, apply silicone from the inside edge of the drawn oval and drill holes for the dowels.

Please note that extreme care must be taken when tightening the toilet bolts, as you could pinch them and the ceramic will crack.

It makes no sense to describe separately the installation of all plumbing units, as it is simple. I just want to say about those cases when the bathroom is acrylic - it is better to install it on bricks, and not on native legs, and then it will be much more stable. To achieve rigidity, you will need to inflate the foam on the bricks, install a bathroom on them and draw in water so that the foam does not budge it.

And now a little about shower cabins - although this is not indicated in the manufacturer's instructions, it is worth installing only on silicone. It will need to be smeared between the pallet and the wall, then between the wall and the door frame guides (vertical), as well as between the lower arc of the sled and the pallet. This will help avoid leakage.


In fact, plumbing units in the private sector provide many options, since there is a large field for activity - premises usually large.