DIY patina + video

DIY patina + video How to make a patina with your own hands on furniture, wood and metal

Patina means traces of aging on various interior items and materials. The artificial type of aging - patina - is often used by designers because it will give products a noble vintage look, a high degree of decorativeness and antiquity.

There are ways how to make a patina with your own hands without big expenses - this requires buying good material and learning about the application technology.

From the very beginning, the "patina" characterized only a darkened coating on copper items - after a while the oxide film gave the metal the appearance of an aged type.

General information

Features of patination

Later, such a word began to be used to reflect the vintage type of other materials - bronze, iron, wood and plaster.

In recent years, they have been trying to decorate houses, cottages and even city-type apartments "semi-antique". Artificially aged wood furniture with antique fittings will look especially stylish.

Modern technologies will help to age (that is, patinate) various materials. Industrial methods are difficult for home use, which make it possible to increase the age of the material in the simplest way. They will help simulate the natural color change of products by applying a special coating.

When patinating, the usual paints can be changed to special compositions without affecting the structure of the internal type of wood or other material.

The easiest way to age is to rub wax into corners, edges and raised edges. The result is an effect of "age-related" changes in the surface, ideal for decorating a room in a retro style. Such a coating also provides a utilitarian function - it will protect the base from external influences, and also impart water-repellent properties. With a poor result, the patina can always be removed without much harm to the products.

Materials and tools

Before starting work, prepare all the necessary consumables - with an aging effect (with elements of silver, bronze and gilding), ordinary paint and varnish material if you plan to repaint the products. Instead of paint and varnish materials, you can use stain, wax, mastic or shellac, depending on the chosen patination option.

Other components of the process that may be required:

  • Brushes of different sizes.
  • Roller (for huge surfaces).
  • Primer.

  • Sandpaper.
  • Furniture varnish for metal.
  • An old rag to remove excess paint.
  • Foam and cotton swabs.

Not all craftsmen additionally buy metal powder, if the effect of the paint and varnish material seems insufficient - it is usually used for artificial aging of metal fittings.

There are even ready-made kits for antique restoration and patina on sale. Most of the compositions that are in the kit are suitable for different materials - wood, plaster and metal.

Overview of variants

Types of patina, consistency and compositions

Depending on Ideas by patinating surfaces can be given various effects:

  • Full coverage.
  • Fragmentary aging.
  • Cracking.

In terms of density, special compositions for patina can be as follows:

For processing metal, wood or other materials, compositions are used on various bases that are not the same in terms of the stability of the finished coating and the level of adhesion to the base. The most popular are wood stain, acrylic paint, wax, oil, bitumen and shellac.

Stain

Do-it-yourself patina for wood can be done with stain. Using stains is the easiest way to artificially age a wood surface, and therefore the cheapest. Stain will ennoble wood products, and also give them a sophisticated look, helps to "make" more expensive wood from inexpensive types of wood. Means of this group will help protect wood from decay, mold and fungus colonization, and enhance moisture-repelling properties.

As a rule, staining of the product involves preliminary brushing - removal of soft wood fibers with a strong brush, while the hard longitudinal fibers remain in place.

Brushing is required in order to provide a more pronounced patina effect. After staining, the products are often coated with wax or shellac-type primers. The range of colors when using wood stain is limited to dark shades of wood, and it will not work to use silvering, gilding or other metallic tones.

Wax

Wax patina in the form of a paste on a water base is often used as a topcoat. They are made by combining natural wax and metal dust.

There are also colorless formulations on sale, and after applying which a beautiful pearlescent shine will remain.

The properties of the wax-type patina are as follows:

  • Helps to simultaneously emphasize the wood structure and tone it.
  • Easy to apply, dries slowly, easy to rub, and therefore you can work with it in a comfortable mode for the master.
  • Most often required for small areas, ideal for ash and oak.
  • It has various shades - brass, silver, gold, bronze, and also iridescent tones.

  • They will beautifully highlight carvings, drawings, patterns, suitable for textured and embossed plates, as well as craquelure cracks.
  • They have a high degree of adhesion to plastic, wood, which will be covered with MDF.
  • Apply with a sponge or rag, polish and dry everything within 24 hours.

Consider other compositions

Acrylic

Patina of acrylic type is a universal composition for plaster, wood and metal. Such a material is water-based, but makes it possible to create a stable coating that has excellent adhesion to surfaces.

After application, the film will protect the material from decay, as well as the growth of fungi and microbes.

DIY patina for metal is not difficult, and even a beginner can handle it. Acrylic patina can be used to treat the entire surface or part of it, as well as individual protruding elements. To give an original look to the base, you can even combine compositions of different shades. There are also options to apply different patina tones in several layers to get a unique effect, as well as a complex flower ornament.

The choice of acrylic shades is quite large - there are both classic and metallic colors. If necessary, this type of patination is perfectly combined with decoupage, alkylation and normal coloring.

Bitumen

The structure of such a building material helps to give the wood a special look, as well as to blacken the carvings, edges, embossed depressions and protrusions. After applying bitumen to the wood, all excess should be removed with a solvent, and the absorbed composition will create the effect of antiquity (the product will be dark in color). Bituminous patina can be made on the basis of concrete polymer, turpentine, white spirit and is not considered a finishing material.

After drying, patinated surfaces should be covered with shellac to secure the result, otherwise it will not last long.

Oil

This patina is suitable for metal and wood. It will not hide the natural shade of the material, and it will also favorably emphasize the pattern on wooden surfaces. By its properties, the oil will resemble a wax patina - it should be easy to apply, and it will also dry out slowly. You cannot use such compositions in the decoupage technique, because they dissolve the paper.

Shellac

This material itself has a yellowish or even reddish brown tone, which will become darker as the number of layers increases. It can be applied alone or when combined with decoupage, and it can also be used as an intermediate or topcoat. When working with shellac, use a sponge or brush.

Applying patina to wood with your own hand

The process is simple and quite feasible at home.For work, it is better to select wood species with a high degree of density, and they are also immune to changes in humidity, or use chipboard and MDF.

Preparation

First, you should perform brushing - exposure of hard wood fibers before patina, varnishing and toning. The method will reproduce the natural aging of wood, but in an accelerated form. The surface will be brushed with a wire brush or coarse-grained sandpaper, as a result of which the hard fibers will be removed. After that, the base should be wiped with a degreasing compound. The wood is not brushed under acrylic paints or for staining, but only cleaned from various types of contamination.

If there is already varnish or other coating on the surface, remove with sandpaper if necessary. MDF and chipboard boards have a homogeneous structure, unlike wood, and therefore their preparation will have specific features.

To give a scuff, the surface can be carefully processed with fine sandpaper, but another complex technology will be most effective:

  • DIY patina + video Application of a barrier primer to enhance the adhesion of the top layer of the board to the patina.
  • Once dry, apply a polyurethane-type primer, which will be an excellent base for patina.
  • Sanding of the created coating with sandpaper to reproduce the structure of the wood.

  • Patination itself.

Now about the stain.

Staining

How to make patina stained? Staining is ideal for classic furniture. The color of the products will turn out to be darker than it was originally.

The order of work is as follows:

  1. The facades should be stained with a water-based stain and covering the details completely.

    You can choose any color - mahogany, walnut, beech, oak or other.

  2. With a soft sponge, wipe off part of the composition so as to give the effect of aging (mainly from the middle zones). Threads, edges, milling elements, cracks will remain darker.
  3. Let the composition dry, and then apply a second layer of stain of the same shade for me, but not on water, but on alcohol.
  4. As the product dries, a layer of shellac should be applied, and if you want to enhance the vintage look, you can additionally wash the antique wax.

And at the end we propose to consider the classic method.

Classic method

Standard patination will be based on the use of wax, acrylic, oil and bitumen. You should choose a material of a suitable tone - metallic, woody or even ordinary. The technology will resemble a simple staining, and first a layer of material for patination should be applied to the base, and then the excess should be erased or shaded more carefully. In this case, the second layer should be done with shellac.

Another conventional technique would involve the following:

  • Apply a patina of a dark shade.
  • Let the product dry a bit, add another layer of a lighter tone to accentuate dark pores.
  • Instead of a light tone, you can take silver or gold when it comes to pieces of furniture made in a classic style.
  • As it dries, sand the base with fine emery cloth to achieve a scuffed effect.
  • Fix the result with shellac or acrylic varnish, choosing a matte composition.

Patina for metal and wood will serve as an excellent design technique, and will also give simple products a special charm and nobility. Patinating is easy and even fun and everyone should try!

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