DIY toilet repair: Instruction + Step-by-step Video

DIY toilet repair: Instruction + Step-by-step Video Quickly and inexpensively repairing the toilet with your own hands + photo ideas. To obtain an excellent result, skill alone is not enough - theoretical knowledge is also required. If you want to master the technology of decorating premises, then doing toilet repairs with your own hands will be an excellent workout, since a small area of ​​the premises will help save both time and finances, and you will also have the opportunity to practice various types of work.

Naturally, the design and repair of the toilet can be performed according to a variety of plans, but in this article you will find the simplest and most popular option, which takes into account both the preparation of the premises for repair, and the cladding by means of tiles, and installation of a suspended ceiling structure, and installation of plumbing.

Preparing the room

So, we are dealing in a small room, for example, 1.

2 * 0.85 meters. Therefore, we need to make the most compact design option, and at the same time use materials that are available, as well as not the most difficult to work with. When making a choice, where exactly to start work in the toilet, an assessment of the state of the room should be carried out, and if it becomes clear that a complete reconstruction is needed to bring the room into an acceptable form, first of all it will be necessary to remove the old finish.

To do this:

  • DIY toilet repair: Instruction + Step-by-step Video Remove the old toilet, for this you should disconnect its sewer pipe and water supply, and then remove it from the stand, which makes it possible to fix the product on the floor.

  • Check the condition of the pipes and if they need to be replaced, remove them as well.
  • Remove the layer of old finishes such as paint, wallpaper or tiles. To clean the surface, use either a hammer drill or a drill with an attachment (it looks like a stiff wire brush). If the tile does not hold well, it will be convenient to remove it with a chisel.
  • If you plan to make a complete repair, you can replace the old wiring.

    If the wires were laid in deep grooves, you don't even have to take them out, but simply turn off the branch and cut the conductors right near the wall.

  • After the debris has been removed, treat the surface with antiseptics. This will make it possible to avoid the appearance of fungus, as well as bacteria after finishing is finished.

Laying communications

At this stage, you should start laying all communications that will be responsible for the work of the sanitary unit. This includes sewer pipes, as well as pipes for water supply and an electric wire.

Please note that in typical panel buildings very often vertical pipes with hot and cold water are located in the toilet. In order not to carry out a complete reconstruction, it is in this place that a distribution unit should be laid, and all pipe bends should be hidden in a special cabinet in a box.

When doing repairs in the toilet with your own hands, according to the photo, ideas should be:

  1. DIY toilet repair: Instruction + Step-by-step Video First, lay the sewer pipes, in particular the one that will connect the toilet and the riser. As a rule, such a pipe section is not very long, so it can be laid with a minimum slope towards the drain. The connection pipe should be selected in such a way that it fully corresponds to the configuration of the toilet bowl - it is inclined or straight.

  2. Now you can start laying the drain pipe that will connect the sewer riser and the bathroom, as well as the kitchen. Fix the pipes to the wall with clamps, and make sure that the slope is maintained by about 20 mm for each running meter.
  3. A tee should be cut into the riser, which is responsible for the cold water supply, and a branch for the drain tank should be connected to it. If you plan to install a washstand in the bathroom, make two separate taps with hot and cold water so that you can powerfully connect it all to the mixer. It is desirable that they are hidden, so you will have to cut grooves under the pipes.

Important! You should consider in advance whether you require a boiler. If necessary, lay out the piping in advance for its further installation.

  1. The wiring in order to install the sockets for the boiler should also be laid in the strobe. For lighting on the ceiling, we run the cable in a plastic corrugated channel, which can be fixed with wire hangers.
  2. From a bar that is impregnated with an antiseptic, or a metal profile, you can form a box in order to mask risers, piping and other elements.

    It is necessary to sheathe the box just before finishing, so as not to damage the plasterboard during work. This concludes the preparation.



When you think about how to make repairs, you should first of all, think over and approve the procedure for finishing work. Professionals can work in a wide variety of patterns, but it is still better to move up and down to minimize the chances of contamination or damage to the finish, and then there is no need to spend time masking already finished surfaces.

For these reasons, it is better to start from the ceiling:

  1. Around the perimeter of the room in the upper part, beat off a straight line at a distance of 5-7 cm from the ceiling.

    Please note that the indentation will depend on the size of the recessed luminaires. If you are going to install small bulbs, 4 cm is enough.

  2. Install a galvanized steel starter profile or a timber bar along the line on the walls.
  3. Then, using metal hangers, attach the guides - they can also be made from a bar or a metal profile. Installation and fixing of parts to the wall is performed with dowels for quick installation.

  4. After the work is completed, wires can be passed over the frame to the installation site of the luminaire.
  5. To the profile, which is fixed around the entire perimeter, attach a special ceiling plinth with grooves for plastic panels. For fastening to wood, use galvanized staples that can be hammered in with a construction stapler.
  6. The most practical and inexpensive option is to cover the ceiling with plastic panels. Cut the PVC lining to size, and then install it on the ceiling - we put the ends in the grooves of the plinth, and fix the edges of the locks on the frame bars with a stapler.

  7. Then make a hole in the plastic panel through which you can lead the wires to connect the lighting fixture. Usually we install the devices themselves at the end of the repair, so use an incandescent lamp holder, which is tied to the wires with electrical tape, as a temporary structure for lighting.


After finishing work with the ceiling, you can proceed to the walls. Do-it-yourself toilet repair provides for finishing, and most often tiles are bought for these purposes - a small area makes it possible to minimize purchasing costs and reduces labor costs, but the finish is durable and hygienic.

The sequence of work is as follows:

  1. Check the walls with a building level, and if necessary, level the rough covering.

    For a good cladding, it is very important that the differences on the surface are not more than 0.5 cm per 1 m, and anything less than this can be compensated for by the thickness of the adhesive layer.

Please note, that during leveling it is advisable to start knocking down all the protrusions with a punch, and then sand the surface. The fact is that plastering in a room such as a bathroom is inconvenient, long and even expensive!

  1. Treat the walls with an antiseptic primer - it will not only help to improve the adhesion of the glue, but will also prevent the appearance fungus under the tiles.
  2. Cover the frame of the box, which is made for covering pipes, with moisture-resistant plasterboard (green).

  3. Then soak the tile in water for about a couple of hours. This life hack will make it possible to improve the adhesion of tiles to glue many times over, and this is important, especially if you have little experience and work extremely slowly.

  4. We make an adhesive mixture, this requires diluting the dry powder in cold water. The glue should be thoroughly mixed with a drill with a nozzle - we do this at least twice so that there are no lumps.

Then you can start cladding:

  1. Take a building level and mark the surface of the walls, while drawing lines along the bottom edge of all rows.

    Make indents for the honey in rows - the thicker the tile, the wider you can make the seams.

  2. Using a float, apply the adhesive to the wall. Form grooves with the toothed side so that the composition is evenly distributed.
  3. Do not apply glue to a too large area, be guided by how quickly you complete the work - the surface with the adhesive must never dry out!
  4. Lay the tile against the wall according to the markings, press and align. Carefully remove excess adhesive with a spatula.

  5. Place plastic crosses to keep the seams the same size.

Lay the tiles in rows from top to bottom. To get a beautiful pattern, you can lay the tiles with an offset, but then each piece must move 1/2 of the width. The accuracy of installation should be checked using a plumb line and a building level, and if necessary, correct the position of the tile, as well as add or remove glue.

When everything is dry, it remains to wash the facings and wipe with a clean cloth.

If you do everything carefully in the process, then in the end it will not take so long.


Before doing the repair of the floor with your own hands in the toilet, an assessment was made. Most often, it is required to restore the waterproofing layer of the floor, so the first part of the work will need to be done before the walls are finished.

  1. First, clean the base from debris and dust again, and then saturate with a penetrating primer.
  2. Then, hand apply a waterproofing mastic based on liquid rubber or bitumen.

    Such a layer will protect against leaks. The material should go a little on the walls!

  3. Pour a screed on top of the waterproofing for leveling with a thickness of up to 5 cm. For this, you can use a self-leveling compound with fast hardening - the price is certainly higher, but time will be saved.
  4. After the screed is dry, the surface can be primed.
  5. For work, we use only floor tiles, since they are not too slippery and at times different.

    Using wall tiles will lead to new renovations in the next couple of years.

  6. Using a trowel, apply cement-based tile adhesive to the substrate. Distribute the composition evenly and you can start facing.
  7. Tiles should be laid either in rows or in order.
  8. As with wall decoration, keep the gaps the same with crosses.

At the end of the work, the glue should dry, and then you can rub the joints, dry the grout, wash and wipe the floor dry.

Cost of consumables

To find out how much the repair will cost, you should know the area of ​​the toilet, as well as the materials that will be used and will whether you carry out the finishing work yourself or contact the specialists. Even with the most accurate estimates, you should budget for another 25% of the total for additional costs. The price of a tile varies in a wide range, since there is both a budget segment and very expensive models. Interestingly, although the water fittings themselves are small, the cost is impressive.

In addition, when calculating how to make repairs in the toilet, keep in mind that you will need such little things as sealant, gaskets, fasteners, and more.


Toilet repair is, in a sense, a testing ground in order to test yourself as a novice finisher, builder, electrician and plumber ... When focusing on the recommendations given, as well as a step-by-step video of repair in the toilet with your own hands with photo ideas, you will succeed, and in the future you will be able to cope with other, more complex projects.

( 1 grade, average 4 of 5 )


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