What is an add-on and what is it for? Let's turn to the not so distant past. Previously, each enterprise strictly adhered to the current GOSTs for its products: this also applied to building materials.
The regulations established the dimensions of panel slabs, bricks, blocks, and so on. Construction organizations also had standards for the thickness of the plaster.
Focusing on standards, woodworking companies produced standard doors and windows with constant values.
They accurately entered the prepared openings, without the need for revision and additional adjustment.
Today things are different . Most enterprises do not follow any generally accepted standards, but their own technical specifications (technical specifications).
The consequence of this is that the same material (block or brick) from different manufacturers may differ in size.
Now hardly anyone will be able to name the exact thickness of the walls of the building, therefore it is almost impossible to make all door frames and window openings standard.
A fairly simple solution was found - door fittings.
Now they produce door frames with the minimum width indicators that provide it with proper strength. And thanks to the installation of extensions, depending on the size of the walls, they get the missing width.
The filler consists of a horizontal top bar and a pair of vertical posts.
Its main purpose is to expand the door frame, to make a larger "coverage area" of the door frame.
They are made of MDF, solid wood and fiberboard. These ready-made strips can be purchased separately or together with the door itself. They do not have any super-complex design, and not even a specialist will be able to master their manufacture from wood-based panels or other lumber.
The expander is assembled from three elements into a structure resembling the beech "P".
It can be attached:
Heavy mechanical load will not have to be endured, therefore, in some cases, liquid nails are sufficient to fix it in a special groove. But more often galvanized self-tapping screws are used to fasten it. If fastening is carried out from the face, the fastening caps are closed with specially selected plugs or mastics.
For construction, doors of various types can be purchased: with a box beam, outside of which a groove for the addition has already been selected, with a box without this device.
In the first case, everything happens quite simply . Ten millimeters thick chipboard or regular wood planks will do.
This thickness must be measured together with the box placed in the doorway. And if you do this without it, then it is important to remember that the addition only complements the box-base.
Determines the distance from the end of the cut in the box to the edge of the opening. In other words, the width of the extension should be equal to the sum of the transverse value of the recess and the width that is missing to completely cover the opening. Usually this value is equal to one centimeter, but other options are possible.
Important! Measurements are taken at several locations, for example at four points. Perhaps the indicators will be different. In this case, the maximum size is considered as the base size.
The fully assembled extreme line of the extremity itself must be flush with the opening. Tiny surpluses are removed with a plane, later this place will be masked by cashing.
The additional extension of the door structure with a groove, it remains only to be nailed from the outside of the uninstalled base with small galvanized nails, the distance between which should be approximately 20-35 cm.
It is also allowed to insert it into a pre-greased recess fixed box.
If you have to work with a box beam, on which a special cut has not been made, the performer can proceed as follows:
The batten should run along the alignment line on the outside of the entire structure;
Important! It is necessary to nail both the planks and the timber to the rail. To make the center axis of the rail coincide with the connection line, you can shift it slightly.
Usually, the upper bar, combined with the lintel, is installed joins a pair of vertical elements . To determine its length, two thicknesses of the additional racks are added to the length of the lintel.
But you can place it between these two elements. In such a case, the addition with its length will be equal to the width of the box, and the thickness of this upper bar is added to the height indicator of each vertical element.
Let's consider in detail the installation progress
Select the installation method. Accordingly, we carry out all the necessary measurements. For right and left additions, vertical measurements are made separately.
It is recommended to measure the inner line of a potential vertical bar by the box, and the outer line, in fact, in the opening.
We cut the board from which the addition is supposed to be done according to the measurements. To the already assembled door frame (can be installed or not installed) we attach the resulting additional elements: 3 pieces.
If the add-ons were mounted to an un-installed box, then together with the add-on it is installed in the opening. The mounting wedges must be placed between the extended door frame and the wall.
By changing the position of these wedges, you need to align the structure in the doorway.
Spacer wedges should be installed between the extensions and the box bar. Fill the assembly gap with construction foam in portions, at least in two passes. We observe the process of foam hardening, while it is possible - we make adjustments. Then we seal the gap between the flooring and the wooden elements.
Platbands are installed last.
All the methods of expanding the door block that we have considered are quite acceptable to be used for entrance and interior doors. The difference will be noticeable only in the width of the strips themselves.
If the add-on is installed on the front door , then the width of the usual add-on boards may not be enough. Then several additional strips are connected using specialized adapters or spline joints.
In the case when the hinge stand is located near a blank wall, the box can be expanded in one of two directions.
If there is no wall that would limit the movement of the door leaf, and the door is able to work by the value of the deployed angle, then the box is installed flush with the outer plane of the doorway . Fenders should be located in the opposite direction of closing and opening. They will not interfere and interfere.
That's all the nuances related to the installation of extras.
And what will seem more convenient or easier for the master himself, it is up to him to decide. The main thing is to remember that none of the described methods requires special skill, but only attention and accuracy.
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