Wood is the warmest building material even against the background of modern aerated concrete, traditional brick and time-tested stone. However, in most regions, the thickness of the timber 150x150 mm is not enough to fully satisfy the optimal level of heating technology, therefore, it is imperative to use effective insulation options.
Insulation of a house from a bar 150x150 outside
Insulation of buildings, made of timber, designed to provide the most comfortable indoor climate and prevent destruction of the supporting structure under the influence of low-temperature conditions.
The main advantages of thermal insulation:
Warming and decorative finishing of the walls of a house from a bar
One of the important advantages of external insulation is also the ability to keep the dimensions useful the area inside the building is unchanged.
Certain disadvantages can be considered the relative complexity of independent work on multi-storey buildings and the need to carry out additional finishing of the facade.
Insulation of the walls of the house from the outside allows you to save useful living space
The optimal solution for insulating a log house is to use mineral wool, foam and extruded polystyrene foam as a heat insulator. The last two options are the most popular in our country, which is due to the ease of self-assembly and affordable, for an ordinary consumer, cost.
Mineral wool and foam
This insulation is popular when arranging the facades of houses from a bar of 150x150 cm due to the following advantages:
The material is also not devoid of some drawbacks that must be taken into account when choosing such a method of insulation:
Extruded polystyrene foam, which is characterized by increased strength and moisture resistance, is devoid of most of the above disadvantages. This feature of the insulation is due to the presence of active fire retardants in the composition.
Extruded polystyrene foam
The use of EPSP for insulating the walls of the house outside
One of the most popular options for thermal insulation of buildings erected from a bar. The material is easy to use and has a number of indisputable advantages:
Mineral wool in rolls
This material is preferable in comparison with foamed plastics, which is due to the preservation of the movement of air masses and the creation of breathable insulation.
In addition, the thermal conductivity coefficient of foamed plastics is 0.082 W / m2, and the same parameters of mineral wool are 0.036 W / m2.
The structure of the mineral wool
The main disadvantages are the higher cost, the ability to absorb moisture, as well as sagging under the influence of its own weight. It should be noted that insulation with mineral wool for finishing with siding panels will require the arrangement of high-quality air ventilation.
Thermal insulation of the facade using ventilated facade technology using mineral wool
When choosing a heater, you need to pay attention to the quality characteristics, as well as the durability of the material.
The most important parameters for assessing the quality characteristics of mineral wool are represented by environmental safety, which is determined by the size of the fibers included in the composition, the type of binding components, and the presence of a quality certificate. Time-tested and well-established manufacturers:
Basalt insulation Rockwool
Knauf mineral wool in rolls
Mineral wool "Izovol"
Mineral wool "Ursa" ( Ursa)
Beltep. Facade-15 (PZh-150) - mineral wool, 100 mm
There is no consensus among consumers regarding the producers of expanded polystyrene, but according to the assessment of quality and operational characteristics, they have proven themselves best of all:
Thermal insulation "Penoplex"
Extruded polystyrene foam "Technonikol "xps 30-250
Depending on parameters such as density, thermal conductivity and vapor permeability, you can independently calculate the amount of insulation.
|Insulation||Density values ||Vapor permeability values ||Thermal conductivity values |
|50-200 kg / m3||0, 49-0.60 mg / (m * h * Pa)||0.048-0.070 W / (m * C)|
|33-150 kg / m3|| 0. |
013-0.05 mg / (m * h * Pa)
|0.031-0.05 W / (m * C)|
|45 kg / m3||0.013 mg / (m * h * Pa)|| 0. |
036 W / (m * C)
|125 kg / m3||0.23 mg / (m * h * Pa)||0.052 W / (m * C)|
Average amount of insulation, excluding window and door openings, with a wall height of 300 cm.
|Insulation thickness, cm||Building perimeter|| Insulation area, |
|Quantity insulation, m3||Number of fasteners|
|5 / 10/15||25 m||75|| 3.75 / 7. |
5 / 11.25
|450 pcs. , mushroom dowels|
|5/10/15||30 m||90|| 4.5 / 9.0 / 13. |
|540 pcs. , mushroom plugs|
|5/10/15||35 m||105||5.25 / 10.5 / 15.75|| 630 pcs. |
, mushroom plugs
|5/10/15||40 m||120||6.0 / 12.0 / 18.0||720 pcs. , dowels-mushrooms|
|5/10/15||45 m||135|| 6. |
75 / 13.5 / 20.25
|810 pcs. , mushroom plugs|
|5/10/15||50 m||150|| 7.5 / 15. |
0 / 22.5
|900 pcs. , mushroom dowels|
If the operation of a residential building erected from a bar of 150x150 mm is expected in regions with insignificant temperature changes and mild frosts, then one layer of insulation 50 mm thick is sufficient. In areas where temperatures very often drop below minus 20 ° C in winter, it is mandatory to use an insulating layer with a thickness of 100-150 mm.
The most affordable and effective solution when insulating log houses is the use of high-quality windproof films that create a moisture-proof barrier and help minimize the adverse effects of wind loads .
The most technologically advanced and modern options are presented by combined windproof membranes. Such material provides protection against condensation and high wind loads, and also helps to create a comfortable microclimate inside the house.
The company produces a whole series of high-quality windproof membrane materials suitable for thermal insulation of wooden facades.
This non-combustible single-layer mineral material has a water-repellent acrylate dispersion coating with reliable UV protection.
Delta Fassade Plus
High quality diffusion film materials with a high level of UV stabilization and self-adhesive tape are also produced, which makes it possible to use on uneven facades with large gaps.
Products are represented by Yutavek-85 and Yutavek-95 materials.
Such three-layer polypropylene materials consist of a pair of outer layers and one inner layer. The outer part is made of non-woven dark and light polypropylene textiles, providing a high level of durability.
The inner layer is polypropylene for waterproofing and super diffusion properties. Also, such materials are characterized by high vapor permeability, non-susceptibility to decay or mold formation.
Windproof membrane "Yutavek-95"
Wooden house, block house finishing. Photo before dismantling
Photo of the facade
Before proceeding with the installation, you must purchase the following basic set of materials and tools :
If the old cladded walls are to be insulated, the finishing must be dismantled.
You also need to remove antennas, decorative elements and drainage elements that can make it difficult to carry out insulation. Then dust and all impurities are removed from the surface.
Dismantling the old casing
Dismantling the old windscreen and insulation
Wall treatment with antiseptic and antifungal compounds should be done in two or three layers. The compositions "Senezh-Ognebio" and "Sentinel" have proven themselves well.
It is advisable to carry out finishing treatment with a fire-fighting compound.
First, you need to check the quality of caulking the wall surface, and, if necessary, caulk the bare areas.
New insulation is applied between the crowns
Arrangement of external insulation can be presented with several options. It is very important to provide the wooden surface of the walls with quality protection. For this purpose, waterproofing or vapor barrier film materials are most often used.
The moisture-conductive, rough part of the waterproofing film must be placed on the wall.
The glossy side should "look" towards the insulation. Otherwise, condensation will accumulate on the wood, which will provoke rapid destruction of the walls.
The waterproofing film should be laid on the surface with an overlap of 10 cm, and then secured with stapling staples. All joints are necessarily glued with construction tape.
In the photo there is a black waterproofing, the film is fixed with brackets
One of the most convenient and effective methods, characterized by the following positive qualities:
The method consists in fixing the insulation and subsequent finishing with standard decorative materials. The ventilated air space prevents wood from rotting and increases the thermal efficiency of the structure being erected.
Diagram of a wooden lathing device
Step 1. We mark areas for installing a lathing from bars, we make processing of material for lathing with antiseptics.
Important! The standard distance between the elements of the sheathing should be equal to the width of the insulation, and the section of the bar is selected in accordance with the thickness of the insulation.
Step 2. We fix the battens according to the markings to the facade surface using galvanized self-tapping screws.
Photo of wooden lathing, fixation was carried out with brackets
Important! You need to control the location of the bars using a building level and a plumb line. It is necessary to mount the lathing with the utmost quality and evenness, which will allow for a durable and attractive finish.
We put insulation in the cells of the installed crate and fix it to the wall surface with special dowels-fungi.
Mineral wool laid between the posts
The mineral wool slabs are fixed with dowels
Step 4. We attach a hydro-windproof membrane film over the insulation.
Fastening the windscreens
Important! The waterproofing surface should be placed outward, and the overlap should be approximately 8-10 cm. The material is fastened with staples.
The joints must be glued with construction tape.
Step 5. Install the battens to create an air gap and provide natural ventilation.
Important! It is necessary to use blocks, 50 mm thick. For fixing, galvanized wood screws are used.
If there are no problems with the installation of wooden battens and insulation around openings, then such work when using metal profiles should take into account some structural features ... A prerequisite is the installation of suspensions, taking into account the installation of slopes and ebbs. Knowing the dimensions of such elements, you need to leave an allowance for their installation.
Thermal insulation scheme
On the surfaces of log houses, erect ventilated facades based on brackets and metal structures are not always advisable, due to the excessive costs of materials and consumables.
Nevertheless, it is precisely such a crate that is often used when insulating a house under siding. In this case, it is necessary to purchase U-shaped suspensions, as well as a metal profile and special fasteners. It is most convenient to install with galvanized self-tapping screws equipped with press washers with a diameter of 4.2 mm.
Step 1. We install the waterproofing film and carry out the markings for the installation of suspensions for the metal lathing.
Important! The optimal distance is 50-60 cm, but when the structure is located in a windy area, the distance between the elements of the metal structure must be halved.
Step 2. We mount metal hangers from opposite sides of the wall.
Important! Through the level, you need to control the accuracy of the installation. Fixation to the surface is carried out with dowels or self-tapping screws with a press washer.
Step 3. We fasten metal profiles to the U-shaped suspensions in the vertical direction. Such a design is the initial or guideline, therefore it should be performed as smoothly and efficiently as possible.
Step 4. Tightly pull the strong twine up and down from the guides that are located on opposite sides of the wall.
Step 5. We install suspensions and profiles on the surface of the entire wall in accordance with the markings and stretched string.
Mounting the metal lathing
Example of fastening the lathing post
In the photo, the profiles rest against the overhangs, but it is desirable that the frame racks are a quarter meter from the overhangs
Fixing the profile post at the outer corner
Important! The upper part of the profiles should recede from the overhang by a quarter of a meter, and the lower part should rest against the foundation of the building.
At the final stage, a heater is installed and a counter-lattice is mounted for installing cladding in the form of siding panels.
Insulation laid between the posts
Vapor barrier and counter-grill
Decorative finishing of a house from a bar with siding
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