Do-it-yourself siding laying - step-by-step instructions + Photo and Video

Laying siding with your own hands - step by step instructions + Photo and Video. Among the huge number of finishing options for the facade, siding has become quite popular. The fact is that, despite its low weight, it is quite durable, does not require special maintenance and special skills or tools during installation. For this reason, DIY installation of siding on the facade is becoming more and more popular in the field of home decoration.

Let's look at what kind of material it is and how to establish its rule so that the finish will last for a long time in the future.

Brief description and varieties

Siding is a finishing material that can be used both indoors and outdoors. It works well for bathroom ceilings and balcony cladding. It is produced in the form of panels, and it is up to 1 cm thick, 10-30 cm wide and 2 to 6 meters long. Such dimensions make it possible to hide any flaws in the wall. For installation, there are holes (perforations) in the upper edge of the panel for fastening with screws, self-tapping screws and nails.

Lock grooves are located along the bottom edge.

Thanks to this, the structure is sealed, and moisture from the atmosphere does not get inside. The outer side of the material is an imitation of a natural material (wood, stone, brickwork).

Varieties according to the base material

Before preparing for laying siding, you should choose one of the types of material. The classification contains:

1. Vinyl - is made on polyvinyl chloride.

   The material is light, lasts 50 or more years, is resistant to sunlight, fungus, mold and insects. It never burns, but it can melt. Has moisture-repellent properties. Easily damaged by mechanical impact.

2. Metallic - the starting material for production is aluminum or galvanized steel.

   Metal siding panels are resistant to all types of stress, but are heavy, and therefore the finish is not suitable for buildings with a long service life.

3. Acrylic - is made on the basis of acrylic. The material perfectly tolerates the effects of UV rays, and therefore, over time, the panels will not fade, which means that you can safely buy even the brightest colors and shades.
4. Ceramosiding - it contains clay, mineral components and a fiber cement mixture, which improves the quality of the material. This is a new type of siding, which is absolutely safe as it does not burn, does not cause allergies and does not harm the environment.

   It can also let steam out of the room, and this is the main advantage among other types. Its characteristics can be compared with ceramic facade tiles.

5. Fiber cement siding - is made from sand, cement, cellulose fibers and mineral components. It is quite heavy, so you should pay attention to the strength of the buildings before buying it.
6. Wooden - The name makes it clear that it is made of natural wood.

   During production, the material is covered with a huge amount of protective compounds, but this does not help to make the siding durable. Due to external irritants, the tree collapses quickly, and therefore the veneer requires regular maintenance and treatment with various compounds.

Scope of application

The technology of laying siding differs in the place of installation. The division is conditional, but there are still options if focus on certain areas of the house :

• Wall - is used to sheathe the main part of the facade, or rather the walls over the foundation. Such panels can be used to trim the pediment.

• Basement - at the beginning, its purpose was to finish the basement of the house, where the mechanical loads are higher, and the humidity is constantly increasing. But at the moment you can see this kind of siding even on the walls.
• Auxiliary - these are addition elements that help to complete the facade structure. This includes finishing and starting strips, profiles for joints, corners and framing the opening.

Variations in shape

Material manufacturers are interested in sales, so they try to focus on the needs of buyers, and create different profile forms:

• Single fracture - a regular rectangular "board".

  By the type of installation, such models are called "herringbones".

• Double break - this siding has the maximum possible width, so one panel will simulate 2 "boards". This type of finish is commonly referred to as "shipboard".

In terms of quality, these two options do not differ, since both the first and second finishing methods are equally often used. Everything will depend only on the preferences and taste of the owner of the house.

Main section

Installation of the battens

To perform the laying of siding as correctly and beautifully as possible, you need to make a frame in advance. At the same time, at this stage, everything should be followed according to the instructions and not deviated. At the slightest inaccuracies vertically or horizontally, the pattern will be violated, and the strength of the structure will decrease.

Selection of material

The frame is made of metal or wood. Is there a difference in strength and quality - we will find out further.

Let's start with timber battens:

• This option is cheaper.
• Short service life.
• Affected by mold and moisture.
• Impregnation with antiseptics and fire retardants is required.
• A thorough inspection will be required upon purchase to ensure there are no flaws.

• Difficulties in correcting the differences on the wall.

As for the metal crate , there are certain nuances here too:

• The cost is higher than that of a wooden one.
• The service life is longer.
• Excellent resistance even to heavy cladding.
• Easy to mount on walls with large drops.

• It is easy to hide all the flaws at home.
• It is not required to carry out treatment with fire retardants and antiseptics.

Both options have advantages and disadvantages. Everyone is guided by the preferences or recommendations of specialists for their particular case.

The stage of preparing the base

There is a fad in the technology of laying siding at the expense of preparation, and this includes preparation of the base.

Once you have sewn up the façade with the panels, it will be more difficult to reach the outer wall of the building.

For this reason, the following must be done:

• Cracks should be filled with plaster or polyurethane foam.
• When using wooden lathing, it is required to make such a base so that it has minimal differences, therefore plastering is required. This is not required for a metal frame.
• The wall should be cleaned of dust, traces of mold, grease stains, insects and fungi.

• Remove all hinged structures - ebbs, antennas, downpipes, trims on windows and doors.

Only after completing these 4 steps can you start installing the brackets and rails.

Installation of guides

It should be noted that in most versions, siding does not have thermal insulation properties, therefore additional insulation of the outer walls will be required. Penoplex or foam should be laid under the siding, but the use of mineral wool is permissible. When using foam, you do not need to install an additional frame, and when using cotton wool, this is extremely important.

For this reason, we suggest doing the following:

1. We make a horizontal crate for cotton wool.
2. We fill the space with insulation.
3. Install a vertical type frame under the siding.

If you insulated the house with foam, then first you should fix the insulation, and then install the frame on top of it.

Stages of installing the battens:

• Marking - from the corners you need to make indents of 15 cm, and the distance between the guides should be 0.

  5 meters.

• Fixation - the brackets should be fixed under the metal profile using dowels.
• Setting - all that remains is the setting of the level guides.

Around window or door openings, it is required to install an additional crate, since it is in these places that the load on the frame increases.

Installation of the J-profile

It is important not only to secure the initial profile well, but also to do it exactly horizontally.

Wall panels should rest against the J-profile, and if you do it at an angle, the structure will simply skew.

Work progress:

1. From the boundary with the foundation or the plinth should retreat up to 5 cm and mark. It is at this height that the starting bar will be fixed.
2. After that, markings should be made throughout the house.
3. Now attach the corner profile to the wall (to the corner) and step back 0.

   5 cm. This gap is required for the element to move freely under the influence of high temperatures - a small gap for expansion.

4. Install the profile on the crate.
5. Do not fix the fasteners to the stop, but also leave a gap of 0. 1-0.

   2 cm.

6. After that, you need to check how well the element is placed horizontally using a level. If there are any deficiencies, you should immediately correct them.
7. The next profile must be installed at a distance from 0.5 to 0.

   6 cm from the first - expansion gap.

In this sequence, we perform work around the entire perimeter of the building.

How to install internal / external corner profiles

When laying siding with your own hands, it will be important to install elements using one technology. There should not be any difficulties, the main thing is that everything is done according to the instruction :

• First, we outline the location of the spotlights.
• Step back from the first mark 0.

  5-0. 6 cm.

• Fix the corner profile at the top. In this case, the fasteners should be tightened to the stop.
• The bottom edge of the profile should be dropped below the initial one by 0.

  5 cm.

• Check the verticality of the element and fix the edge at the bottom. Don't forget to leave a gap.
• Along the entire length, place fasteners in increments of 0.4 meters and leave gaps.

Features of the extension of panels

It is believed that the length of the corner profile may not be enough if the house is high. In this case, a competent docking of elements is required. There are no special details for the profile, but the H-profile was invented for the wall panels, which we will talk about a little later, but for now we are talking about the slats.

For the structure tightness (so that the wind does not blow out and moisture does not get in), it is better to do everything overlapping. In addition, docking should be carried out at the same height on all sides of the house.

1. Measure two pieces of the required length, taking into account an overlap of 2.5 cm.
2. Place the top piece on the bottom.
3. At the bottom, cut off the perforated edge 2.5 cm from the edge.

4. The lower part must be fixed, and then the upper one, taking into account all installation rules.

This way of building up is also suitable for wall panels.

Installation of the H-shaped profile

The element is used if the length of the panel is not enough for sheathing one wall or decor in two shades. The H-profile is installed in the same way as the corner elements.

The only moment that distinguishes both processes from each other is that the H-profile is installed on the wall in a certain place (with a shift to the side or in the center, depending on the idea).

1. Step back from the soffit 0.5 cm.
2. The gap from the profile should be 0.5 cm.
3. The bottom edge should be lowered 0.

   5 cm from J -profile.

4. At the H-profile, the upper edge is tightly fixed, and the lower one is made with a gap.
5. Check the vertical.
6. Place the fasteners along the entire length.

Installing the frame of the doorway

Before you start laying siding according to the instructions with your own hands, you should think about window and doorways.

Let's start by looking at doorways. Usually, the door goes in the same plane as the walls, so you will need to buy a special trim for framing.

• You will need 4 segments - two on the sides, and two on the bottom and top.
• In the part that will be on top, make an incision a couple of cm deep and bend the tongue inward. Cut off the perforated edge.

• Make the same cuts in the lower part.
• Thanks to the "tongues", the structure will be sealed and moisture will be removed.
• Fix the elements around the opening to the battens.

In this case, the wall panels will be installed with one side in the platband, and with the second in the H-profile or in the corner. If required, trim the wall panel above the opening and install the trim.

How to bypass windows

Regarding windows, there are two options:

• If the window is in the same plane, use similar platbands, as in the case of the doorway.
• If the window is recessed into the wall, that is, in a niche, use the slopes.

In the first option, everything is exactly the same as when framing the wall, so do everything according to the principle described above. There is nothing complicated in the second option either. Measure 4 pieces of the desired length - 2 vertical, 2 horizontal.

The top element must necessarily overlap the side elements, and the side parts must go down to the part located below.

From the inside of the upper slope, cut and fold inward. These cuts should also be made on the side parts. Then water will not enter the structure. Details must be attached to the crate.

Wall panels are inserted into the casing with one edge, and into the profile with the other.

Installation of wall panels

When laying siding, the installation of the first panel is just as important as the installation of the starting profile. The further process will depend on this, so we take every step accurately and carefully. No need to rely on chance every time, double-check everything.

1. The bottom edge must be inserted into the starting profile.

2. Side pieces are placed in side pieces.
3. Fasteners are made along the length of the panel in the perforated edge and the part is fastened.
4. It is not necessary to fasten the fasteners all the way.
5. After fixing, slide the panel along the sides. If this works out, then everything is done correctly.

6. Be sure to check the horizontal with a building level.
7. Install the rest of the panels in the same way.

Features of laying the finishing plank

The finishing profile should be installed before fixing the last wall panel.

This will achieve maximum tightness:

• Step back from the corner profile 0.5 cm.

• Make an indent from the mark of the soffit, which will equal to the width of the starting profile + 0.5 cm.
• Guide the perforated edge down.
• Fix the part.
• If you want to use a pair of finishing planks in the same area, remember to make an expansion gap.

• Then install the last panel.
• If necessary, you can cut off the excess width.
• Insert the bottom edge into the lock of the previous panel, the top into the finishing strip.

Base / plinth mounting rules

Siding for base / plinth is available in slightly different sizes, and therefore the installation is different from the standard. For basement panels, a horizontal crate is used, and the use of insulation is a prerequisite.

Required :

1. Starting bar.
2. Elements for corners.
3. Fixing the panels.
4. Anchors should be placed on the sides and on top of the siding.
5. Ebb installation.

Recommendations of specialists

Those who are professionally engaged in installing siding know some of the nuances :

1. Always buy all material from one manufacturer and batch. Even in trusted companies, it is not always possible to make the same panel colors and sizes.
2. Do not use accessories from other manufacturers.
3. When installing in winter, the gaps should not be 0.5 cm, but 0.

   9 cm.

4. You can use 2 starting profiles instead of one corner. This will help reduce costs, but the structure will be less airtight.
5. The J-profile can also be used to frame elements such as doors and windows.

If you think that you cannot afford to use siding, use the services of craftsmen or a team.