Facade paint on wood for outdoor use - types, painting technology

Despite the widest choice of synthetic finishing materials, a huge number of people still prefer wooden facades from lining, siding or blockhouse.

Facade paint for wood for outdoor use

As you know, wooden surfaces suffer from humidity, temperature extremes, fungi and insects. In order for the cladding to retain its presentable appearance for a long time, the surface must be processed. A properly selected coating will not only protect the wood from the adverse effects of the environment, but also highlight the natural beauty and uniqueness of the wood structure.

For a long time, the only option for covering wooden houses was oil paint based on drying oil.

However, now the assortment has expanded many times. Acrylic antiseptic primers, various enamels, polyurethane colorless varnishes and much more appeared.

In order to make the right choice of paintwork, it is necessary to consider:

• what kind of wood is your facade made of;
• under what weather conditions will work be carried out, in what climate the house will be operated;
• is it possible to paint the facade before assembly - in parts - or is it necessary to work with the finished wall.

When reprocessing, you need to know what kind of paint was used for the initial painting. If you don’t know, it’s easy to define.

Scrape off a piece of the old coating - the oil paint will chip off and the acrylic paint will roll off.

What paints for wooden facades are there?

The choice of coating for a wooden facade is primarily determined by the color scheme, your taste and budget. Before heading to the hardware store, let's first understand the concepts. What is enamel, varnish and paint, how do they differ from each other?

Paint is a suspension of pigments in various substances. It creates a uniform, opaque film.

Enamel are pigments in varnish, in suspension consistency. Solid, opaque, textured film.

Varnish - substances in organic solvents.

Table.

Paints commonly used for facades.

Prices for various types of building paints

Building paints

Now more about each type of coating.

Colorless varnishes and paints

Transparent coatings qualitatively emphasize the natural structure of the wood. The advantages of such a coating, in addition to external beauty, include excellent vapor permeability, due to which such paint dries perfectly on the surface of the wood. And thanks to ultraviolet filters, the wood does not fade in the sun.

Note! Updating such coverage will be required no earlier than in a few years. When repainting, you do not need to remove the old layer.

The disadvantage of such coatings is the rather high cost.

Water-dispersive paints and varnishes

This type of coating is one of the most popular in the world. Water-dispersed paints occupy about 80% of the entire world paint market.

The advantages of such coatings are color fastness, resistance to moisture and sun. A breathable film is created on the treated surface, thanks to which it is very comfortable to be inside such a room.

The disadvantage of the coating may be unsuitability for work at sub-zero temperatures. Due to the presence of water in the composition, under the influence of frost, such paint exfoliates. In addition, this coating is less durable and may need to be reprocessed after about 4 years. These are mid-range paints.

Opaque enamels (traditional oil paints on drying oil and similar analogues)

These organic solvent based enamels used to be extremely popular.

Recently, they have been seriously pushed aside by water-based paints.

The main reason for the decline in the popularity of traditional paints is the increased toxicity. Who of us at least once in our life has not felt bad, breathing paint? In addition, this paint is more fire hazardous. Opaque enamels cannot be called durable. When exposed to moisture and temperature extremes, facades quickly lose their presentable appearance, and the coating cracks.

Important! In this category of paints, only polyurethane enamels can be called strong and durable. However, the raw materials from which they are made are very toxic.

The advantage of traditional paints is the low cost. These paints are among the cheapest on the market.

Alkyd paint for wood for outdoor use

Alkyd paints are obtained by mixing a binder component - alkyd resin, a coloring pigment and a solvent (kerosene, white -spirit and others).

Sometimes the mixture includes a desiccant, which affects the drying rate, thixotropic (avoiding spreading) and antifungal additives. Such a coating is water-resistant, dries quickly and does not turn yellow, unlike some other paintwork materials.

Video - Dufa. Paint for wood facades Woodflex

How to paint a wooden facade of a house yourself?

We need:

• work gloves;
• protective mask;
• a wide brush;
• small brush;
• rag;
• sander and sandpaper;
• drill and disc brush for drilling;
• spatulas;
• paint stirrer.

First, let's find out if we are going to repaint the old, peeling wall or process a new, unpainted one facade? Those who are painting a new facade can skip the first step in our instructions, because we will start by removing the peeling paint.

Prices for popular models of drills

Drill

Step 1. Removing old paint

The most important thing when repainting an old wooden façade is to remove peeling paint well. If you leave loose, chipping pieces of old paint on the wall, they will soon fall off, taking some of the new coating with them. And all the work will go to waste.

There are several ways to remove old paint.

You can clean the surface with a scraper or a stiff brush, then rinse with a special solution or water under pressure and dry thoroughly. Or you can warm up the old paint with a hair dryer and scrape off with a scraper or spatula. The method you choose depends on your capabilities and the condition of the old coverage. The main thing is that as a result of pre-treatment, the surface becomes homogeneous, smooth and dry. No peeling paint, lint or smudges.

Note! For the convenience of further work, it is necessary to remove the drain pipes from the facade, other elements that protrude and can interfere with the work, as well as, if possible, seal the windows with film.

Step 2.Sanding and Putty

For best results, it is best to sand both old and new wood with a sander or disc drill brush.

If there are gaps and irregularities, they must be sealed with wood putty using a spatula. For wooden facades, oil or glue putty is best suited.

Due to its composition, it better tolerates humidity and adverse environmental influences. Apply a thin layer of putty to the damaged areas and dry thoroughly before further processing.

Step 3. Surface treatment with a primer or antiseptic

Any wooden surface - no matter old or new - must be treated with an antiseptic or a primer.

The main mistake of the majority is precisely that the priming stage is omitted. This is understandable, because often a primer or antiseptic is more expensive than paint. However, it is the priming of the walls that guarantees the perfect output result.

Modern antiseptic impregnations not only protect wood from corrosion, insects and fungi, but also stop the starting process of wood decay (which is very useful in the case of restoration of old walls).

A new, unpainted wooden surface must also be primed.

Typically, paint manufacturers produce primers that are ideal for the type of paint you choose. Therefore, the best solution is to purchase a primer from the same manufacturer as your chosen paint. For example, if you are painting a wall with Tikkurila Pika-Teho paint, Tikkurila Valtti Pohjuste is a good primer.

Apply a primer or antiseptic with a brush in one layer, carefully rubbing the composition into the wood. Dry the wall after priming and before painting.

Different types of primers dry for different amounts of time, see the drying information on the packaging of your product.

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Impregnation for wood

Step 4. Painting

After the surface has been sanded, primed and thoroughly dried, you can start painting.

Important! Pay attention to the weather conditions in which you plan to work. If you are going to process a new facade and it is possible to paint it in parts, it is better to paint it indoors.

If you need to paint an already finished wall, carefully study the weather requirements on the package with paint.

Climatic restrictions may differ for different types of paints. Manufacturers agree on one thing - do not choose damp, rainy weather, scorching sun and heat for painting, or earlier in the morning, when the facade has not yet completely dried out from dew. A dry, moderately cloudy day is best suited for such work. Humidity - no more than 50%, air temperature - from +5 to +20 degrees.

It is recommended to start work no earlier than 10-11 am.

Before starting work, the paint must be thoroughly stirred with a mixer to paint or sticks.

Different paints require different application rates.

On average, the paint is applied in 2-3 layers, carefully drying each of them. Sometimes the first coat is thinned with a primer. A wide, dense brush with fairly stiff bristles is best for outdoor painting at home. Apply the paint in a thin, even layer along the grain.

Important! Drying times for each coat may vary depending on the type of coating.

Different manufacturers can dry the paint from 2 to 24 hours.

Competently painted wooden facade is a wonderful appearance of your house for 10, or even 15 years old. The main thing in this process is to carefully approach the choice of materials, carefully follow the instructions and take into account climatic conditions.

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Pneumatic airbrushes, spray guns, texture guns

Video - Painting the facade of wood