When the approach of cold winter is already felt in the air, we are not abandoned by the thought of how to better insulate your house. Penoplex is a very popular, optimal option in terms of price and quality. In use, the material will not take a lot of time and effort from the builder, but it will be necessary to protect the insulation from mechanical and weather influences. How to do this will be discussed in this article.
Penoplex is often used as insulation of buildings from the outside or inside.
Working with it is facilitated by the always consistent physical characteristics and dimensions of the plates. The strength of the penoplex is not enough so that the plates do not collapse from point impacts and other physical influences (dents cannot be avoided in any case). Therefore, it is required to protect the material from the adverse effects of ultraviolet radiation, moisture, etc. Yes, and visually, the wall, insulated with plates, seems to be unfinished and requires additional finishing. The use of penoplex implies, in addition to insulation, additional finishing.
Plastering of the facade using foam-plastic
Plaster is a simple and inexpensive method of surface finishing after insulation. This type of construction work is appropriate when the boards are glued to the surface. Penoplex can be stacked in a different way: in the supporting frame, in the crate cells. With this option, the facing of the plane will be performed either by panels, or by clapboard, or by something else.
Check if there are any gaps between the plates.
Almost no one succeeds in laying the insulation perfectly the first time. We close up the joints, if this moment was missed during the installation. Pay attention to the curvature of the entire plane, because the adhesive solution is then applied in a thin layer. It will not work to even out irregularities with them due to the specifics of the composition. To remove the gaps between the foam boards, you can fill the gaps with foam for insulation systems (or usually mounting), for example, Ceresit CT-84.
For one can (850 ml), you will need to give about 600 rubles.
Insulation of the facade with penoplex
Do not use a standard cement-based mortar with sand, as it will not give a good quality plaster. The store is full of mixtures, in terms of composition, suitable for styling on penoplex.
Experienced finishers advise using:
When mixing, strictly follow the instructions left by the manufacturer on the packaging.
Experienced craftsmen make a mixture that resembles sour cream in density. To glue the fiberglass mesh, the consistency of the mixture should be slightly thinner than the manufacturer requires. In the case of a leveling layer, the mortar must be so liquid that it flows freely from the trowel.Hence the different consumption of the composition: gluing the mesh will require 4 kg per 1 sq. meter, per leveling layer - 6 kg of mixture per sq.
Preparation of plaster mortar
Compositions of different manufacturers, despite the great similarity, have different components. Therefore, it is better to use products from the same manufacturer at the same site to avoid unnecessary problems.
Use formulations that are universal in use, and you do not have to think about additional nuances associated with restrictions on the scope of application.
Prepare penoplex for plastering by laying the primary layer.
For this purpose, an alkali resistant PVC mesh must be used. Using PVC, you will insure yourself against the aggressive effect of cement on the exposed mesh. Cement is known to react with many materials.
Cut strips slightly longer than the height of the wall. Keep in mind that laying is done from top to bottom.
With one hand, apply the strip to the fiberglass, with the other, apply the solution to the mesh exclusively along the upper edge. Thus, the mesh is "welded" to the penoplex. As a result, the primary layer should be up to 5 mm thick.
Penoplex insulation scheme: 1 - foam plates, 2 - glue, 3 - dowels, 4 - reinforcing mesh, 5 - primer, 6 - plaster coating
With the top edge fixed flat, apply the grout to the mesh so that it is evenly distributed over the entire width. Each movement goes from top to bottom.
Be sure to leave a vertical "tape" clean from the plaster mixture on the right side, because each subsequent strip will be layered on the edge of the previous one by almost 1 cm. ... Look at all the places on the wall where the geometry of the plane changes (door openings, slopes, window openings) - first of all, you need to start laying the mesh from them.
Reinforcing mesh for foam
Foam reinforcing mesh
This procedure must be carried out so that the base under the second layer is even and solid. Moistening with water with a half-scrubber, level the entire plane, slightly pressing on the penoplex. We do not pay attention to the sections of the mesh that appear through the solution to the outside - this is normal. It so happens that, after waiting for the solution to dry, experienced specialists again prime the primary layer.
The second layer is required to complete the alignment of the wall and hide all auxiliary elements, for example, reinforcement.
The third layer is possible if the quality of the second, for some reason, does not please the master.But this is only a "rough" finish before the final stage - the final surface design. The last step is usually done using decorative plaster. If the surface was made uneven, then there can be no question of a normal installation of the "decoration".
Plastering of the facade on foam
Required tools and materials.
|1|| A bowl for preparing a mixture |
|2|| A container for water |
|3|| Spatulas of various sizes |
|4|| PVC mesh for making a reinforced layer |
|5|| Oil brush |
|6|| Paint roller |
|7|| Penoplex polisher |
|8|| Plastering composition of either "Ceresit", or "Ecomix", or "Stolit" |
|9|| Ceresit CT-84 polyurethane foam (850ml) |
|10|| Primer "Betonkontakt" |
|11|| Ceresit glue ST 83, or KREISEL 210, or Glims KF, etc. |
Before purchasing plastering materials, make a calculation of the quantity purchased. If work is carried out according to the established technology, then the consumption of the mixture will be within 4 kg / m2 when laying the initial layer. The second layer will require from 5.
5 to 6.5 kg / m2.
Here's a tip: grab a spare mixture in case you suddenly need to make a third adjustment layer.
To independently plaster foam plastic, it is necessary to do a number of preparatory steps, one after the other in a strict order.
Ensure good adhesion by treating the surface with a deep-penetrating primer "Betonkontakt" (from manufacturers such as VIOLUX, Ceresit, Feidal). Price 700-1000 r. for 15 liters. For work, a large brush or paint roller is suitable. Before applying, you need to shake the composition and pour some part into a suitable plane.
Dip the brush in liquid and apply the primer evenly to the surface. The liquid should not leak and accumulate in certain areas. The surface is treated with a primer one more time after the first layer has dried.
Concrete contact KNAUF
Second step. Attach the plinth profile to the wall.
You will need a measuring tool (say, a ruler or tape measure) to mark the points on the wall where you will make holes with a drill. It is better to take a puncher for this - you will lose less time.
Types of basement profile
Fixing the basement profile
Third step. Stir the adhesive solution to stick the foam boards to the wall.To simplify the process and shorten the working time, select a container for the entire bag of mixture.
It is most convenient to mix with an electric mixer with a collapsible nozzle.
Fourth step. As soon as the prepared mortar is on the facade, glue the foam boards to it. But it will be more convenient and more economical to apply glue to one side of the plate, evenly distributing it around the entire perimeter. And in the middle it is enough to throw a few "cakes".
Attach the insulation to the wall neatly along the previously exposed carriers. It is recommended to slam the slab several times. Use a spatula to remove excess mortar.
Insulation of the facade with penoplex 5 cm and framing the corners with penoplex 2 cm
The fifth step. Each foam board must be rigidly fixed with an umbrella dowel.
This operation is performed using a drill. Over the entire area, 4-6 holes are made into which the dowel-umbrellas are laid. Cover the dowel caps together with all the grooves in the foam.
Facade dowel umbrella for thermal insulation
Sixth step. A reinforcement layer is made of perforated corners and fiberglass mesh.
Aluminum corners are glued to the outer corners. The same glue, either Ceresit CT 83, or KREISEL 210, or Glims KF, is used for corners and mesh. Price 350-600 rubles. for 25 kg. It is necessary to cut out the fiberglass reinforced mesh.
It should be borne in mind that the canvases should overlap each other by no more than 10 cm when they are glued to the plates. Also leave a distance of almost 10 cm for turning the corners. Apply the adhesive with a thickness of about 3 mm - it is more convenient to do this from top to bottom in small areas at a time. Its density should be slightly less than indicated on the packaging by the manufacturer. Compliance with these points ensures that the adhesive does not have time to set before the completion of the reinforcing layer.
Then use a spatula to glue the fiberglass to the wall.
Tip! In the case when the fiberglass mesh does not have sufficient flexibility and it is not possible to bend the corners normally, apply liquid glue in the places of the folds to make the canvas more elastic.
Corner with reinforcing mesh for corners of the building
Seventh step. The adhesive is applied to the reinforcement layer. A regular spatula will help you to apply a layer of glue evenly.
In fact, it turns out like a rough plaster.
Eighth step. A finishing layer (or two) of primers is spread over the thermal insulation cake. This is done using a wide bristle brush.
Facing bricks for the facade
Description of the types and installation of facing bricks for the facade can be found in this article.
We also recommend reading about decorative elements made of expanded polystyrene for the facade.
Ninth step. Plastering and painting of the facade is carried out at the final stage of the work with the help of a falcon plaster and paint roller. Before this, the primer must dry.After drying, the finish is completed with decorative plaster.
It is rubbed off after the applied layer begins to set. When the plaster dries, the surface is painted with a special facade paint. For these purposes, water-dispersion compositions are used.
Finishing the facade with decorative plaster
At the ninth step, the work on warming and protecting the walls from freezing can be considered completed. When the insulation is carried out inside the building, then instead of plaster, putty is applied to the reinforced layer, followed by a decorative finish (wallpapering or painting).
Please note that staining is not necessary in all cases. To the question of when to stain and when not, you can find the answer on the packaging of the putty used.
Posted By: Work Style |13, Nov 2020
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Posted By: Work Style |13, Nov 2020