Fastening drywall to the wall and ceiling with your own hands: on self-tapping screws

Fastening drywall to the wall and ceiling with your own hands: on self-tapping screws This article will tell you in detail how to fix drywall to the wall and ceiling: with a profile for screws or without a profile for glue, read and find out all the secrets for yourself!

Modern finishing materials are very versatile and easy to use. Drywall is no exception. It is used everywhere in both residential and office environments.

Finishing work with this material can be performed even by the most ignorant beginner in repair.

The main thing is to have step-by-step instructions before your eyes and know a few secrets of how to make a structure more durable and of high quality.

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How to fix drywall

Currently in all repair, construction and finishing works drywall is very widespread.

This material has earned boundless love for its characteristics: versatility, cheapness and ease of use.

With the help of gypsum plasterboard, you can level horizontal and vertical surfaces, erect new partitions, close up unnecessary openings, form an arch , embody almost any design idea.

Such versatility in the use of drywall raises the question: how to fix drywall in certain cases?

Options for fixing drywall

There are two main ways to attach drywall:

  1. frame and
  2. frameless.


The first case involves the construction of a metal frame, followed by planting a finishing material on it.

The option is more labor-intensive than the frameless one, however, this manifests itself only at the stage of preparation, the fastening itself is much easier and more reliable.

Fastening drywall to the wall and ceiling with your own hands: on self-tapping screws


The method consists in landing drywall with special glue.

Fastening drywall to the wall and ceiling with your own hands: on self-tapping screws

Instructions for fixing drywall


This is the most common method. It is successfully used for leveling various surfaces, improving sound and thermal insulation of rooms, since an additional air cushion is formed between the frame and the wall, which is filled with an insulating material.

The great advantage of this method is the absence of requirements for surface preparation.

This saves not only time, but also money.

Either a galvanized profile or wooden slats are selected as the frame. The latter are inferior due to their susceptibility to deformation in conditions of changes in humidity and temperatures.

Profile types

The metal profile is produced in the following versions:

  1. Ceiling (PP, CD) 60x27 mm;
  2. Ceiling guide (PN, UD) with dimensions of 28x27 mm;
  3. Guide for racks (PN, UW) with dimensions of 50x40, 75x40, 100x40 mm;
  4. Partition wall rack (PS, CW) with dimensions 50x50 , 75x50, 100x50 mm.

To connect the profiles to each other along the length and at right angles, there are straight and adjustable hangers, angle protection profiles and crabs.

Fastening drywall to the wall and ceiling with your own hands: on self-tapping screws

Important! The name "Ceiling profile" does not mean the special orientation of this material only for the ceiling. On the contrary, this is the most versatile option.

Ceiling guide (UD) and ceiling carrier (CD) are in great demand. Of them, lathing on the walls, arches and other frame structures are made.

Partitions indoors are mainly erected from a guide profile (UW) and a rack profile (CW).

Their thickness is selected based on the desired thickness for the partition.

Assembling a metal frame

Erecting a frame from metal profiles will require the following materials from you:

  1. screwdriver;
  2. puncher;
  3. scissors for cutting on metal;
  4. spatula for plastering finished plasterboard surfaces;
  5. drywall sheets and metal profiles for them;
  6. hangers, self-tapping screws, screws and dowels.

Steps for forming the frame

  1. Measurements are taken and marking is performed for the installation of suspensions and the profile itself;
  2. Fastening drywall to the wall and ceiling with your own hands: on self-tapping screws The guide profile is fixed as follows: the upper one is mounted to the ceiling, the lower one - to the floor, the side ones - to the wall. We get a frame around the perimeter of the surface to be trimmed;
  3. The bearing element is attached to the guide profile with a step of no more than 40 cm. Fastening is carried out to the wall on plumb lines with a pitch of 80 cm;
  4. The frame is fixed to the ceiling and floor with screws and dowels;

Do not forget to check the level of the structure.

When the frame is finished, you can start insulation and sound insulation. Insulating material is placed in the grooves of the frame. Drywall is mounted on the frame itself using self-tapping screws, not about 25 mm long.

Self-tapping screws should fit into the drywall by 2mm.

All joints of the resulting structure are putty.

You can simply apply a small layer of putty and, after waiting for it to dry, remove the excess with sandpaper.

Frameless method of fastening drywall (without profiles)

This method is a little easier to execute than the one described above.

However, it is applicable in cases of a perfectly flat surface - the base, without any damage from strokes, mold and without any coating (varnishes, paints, wallpaper).

Tools for frameless method

  1. spatula and putty;
  2. dry gypsum mixture and the sheets themselves drywall;
  3. jigsaw, construction knife, rubber hammer, level , thread or line, tape measure and pencil.

Fastening technology

  1. Take measurements of the prepared surface and, according to them, cut drywall sheets into separate elements.

  2. Fastening drywall to the wall and ceiling with your own hands: on self-tapping screws They cut the material most often with an ordinary construction knife.First, an incision is made from the front side and, applying force, break the sheet along the notch line. But the curly elements will have to be cut with a jigsaw.
  3. Prepare a mixture for fastening according to the instructions and apply it to the entire sheet with a notched trowel. If the walls are absolutely perfect, then spot application is also allowed.

  4. Gypsum board is applied to the base surface and pressed using a rule that is best tapped with a rubber mallet.

This method allows seams between drywall sheets of 5-7 mm, an indent from the floor 5 mm, and from the ceiling no more than 10 mm. All of them must be covered with a plinth or putty.


On fixing drywall to the ceiling

Performing work with sheets of drywall on the ceiling it is better to have an assistant. It won't be easy alone.

You can, of course, make smaller pieces of material, but at the finish you will get a huge number of seams that will need to be putty and they still will not add beauty.

Tip! The assistant can be equipped with a tool, such as a long mop, with which he will hold the drywall as you screw it to the frame.

The main installer, being under the ceiling, takes one edge of the finishing board from the assistant. At the same time, the assistant begins to understand his edge of the slab until a mop enters between the sheet and the hammer and then, with the help of the latter, the sheet is finally pressed against the ceiling frame.

How to avoid cracks in the seams

Fastening drywall to the wall and ceiling with your own hands: on self-tapping screws At the head of the corner is the rule: the edges of two adjacent sheets must be fastened in the same profile.

But, if the design assumes the presence of joints at an angle, and not straight, then it is impossible to attach two sheets to a common profile.

Here, cracking can only be avoided by reinforcement.

By the erection of the partition

A strip of passage of the partition is outlined. Its perpendicularity is checked. According to the exposed markings, a guide is mounted with a damper tape under it.

Tip! Cut-out strips of polyethylene foam from 3 to 4 mm thick can also be used as a damper tape.

Racks shortened by 3-5 mm relative to the height of the room are installed in the guides with a uniform pitch. Their strict verticality is checked once again.

Racks are attached to the rails with self-tapping screws. Each connection must have two self-tapping screws.

If the erected partition must have high strength properties, choose elements for erecting the frame thicker. From 75 to 100 mm. Also, to strengthen the strength will help the laying of wooden bars in the racks, with a section of 50x50 mm and the connection of U-shaped rack profiles in pairs.

If there should be a door or other opening in the partition, then it must be provided even at the stage of construction of the frame.

( 1 grade, average 5 of 5 )