Frameless balcony glazing: installation technology step by step

Among the many available methods for glazing balconies, frameless is considered the most elite. The design contains a minimum number of elements, but the highest quality requirements are imposed on each of them.

System structure

The system consists of the following structural elements.

1. Upper and lower profile (No.

   4 and No. 10) . The main load-bearing elements carry the entire load. They have special grooves for moving insulating glass units and special exit grooves for exiting and turning the packages during full opening of the glazing.

2. Closer.

   Guides the glass units into the recess for turning. It is made of plastic, the dimensions depend on the manufacturer, it has several sections.

3. Side profiles. Serve for sealing the junction planes, take part of the vertical loads.
4. Top and bottom latches.

   Fix the sashes in the desired position.

5. Glasses (No. 7). They are made of shock-resistant grades and have seals to improve the comfort of staying on the balcony. Glass thickness from 6 mm and more.

6. Glass profile (No. 6). Glasses are fixed to it with the help of especially strong polyurethane glue, as an addition, rivets are used in some systems. Each glass profile has two bearings for easy sliding.
7. Roller harness (No.

   3). Some options have a roller stop system, the weight of the glass supports the top or bottom profile.

8. Upper and lower drain cornices to protect the system from rainwater penetration (# 2 and # 11) .

The weight of the glass can be supported by both the upper and lower supports. For the convenience of opening the sash, special handles are provided, the surfaces of the metal profiles are coated with stable powder paints.

If desired, an anti-vandal lock is installed, which does not allow opening the doors from the outside.

If the sash is sliding, then the strips with pile are installed at the ends. It prevents dust and noise from entering the room, automatically cleans the glass surface with each opening / closing.

Frameless glazing performance

In terms of cost, this is one of the most expensive types of glazing, but it has not only positive, but also negative sides. The advantages include the following indicators:

• original design view of the building facade.

  Emphasizes lightness of construction, used in various styles. The dimensions of the building visually increase;

• the natural illumination of the balcony increases significantly.Of all the methods used by builders, frameless glazing almost does not prevent the penetration of sunlight, it has a minimum area of ​​opaque surfaces.

Unfortunately, there are many more drawbacks.

1. Frameless glazing can be attributed to one of the types of balcony railing, and even then not very reliable.

   It does not pose any serious problems for the penetration of unwanted persons.

2. Almost zero heat savings. The balcony can only be used in early spring and late autumn. It will not be possible to keep flowers on them all year round.

   

   On such balconies there is a low degree of heat saving

3. As soon as warm air from the room enters the balcony, the glass immediately fogs up, appears on them condensate.

   Then it flows down and falls on the balcony cladding. As a result - their accelerated deterioration, the likelihood of fungi and mold. We have to apply a set of additional construction measures to drain the condensate.

4. Large loads on two elements require very high-quality preparation of the load-bearing architectural elements of the balcony, sometimes they have to be replaced with new structures. And this is not always possible given the residual bearing capacity of the balcony slab.

   

   A system based on the lower guide profile is safer than a suspended structure

5. Inability to open only one leaf in order to reach extreme, you will have to move all the previous ones. It is long and inconvenient.

   

   Sash sliding scheme

We give an objective description of the frameless balcony glazing, it will help you consciously make the final decision, not hurry up with this type of glazing.

Types of structures for frameless glazing of balconies

Today, systems of two manufacturers can be purchased on our market: Finnish and domestic.

Domestic

The brands STS and "Estelle", in terms of the quality of engineering solutions, are in no way inferior to foreign competitors, and sometimes even surpass them.

One of the advantages is that the sashes are simultaneously fixed to the upper and lower profiles, which increases the resistance to wind loads and makes the wear of rubbing parts more uniform. Due to this, the service life of the structures is increased.

Instead of aluminum alloys, loaded elements are made of stainless steel, which is very important in our operating conditions. It is possible to install additional anti-vandal protection. The width of the flaps is 500-800 mm, dimensions can be changed by individual order.

Glasses can move both in a straight line and in corners - the scope of use is expanding. The cost of structures is about 1.5 times lower than foreign ones.There is only one drawback - poor-quality manufacturing, technology violations, excess of tolerance fields levels the design advantages. The reason for the poor quality is outdated equipment and irresponsibility of the performers.

Foreign

The most famous brand Lumon, profiles are made of a special especially resistant aluminum alloy, the amount and distribution of Mg ₂ Si in the metal is precisely controlled, thereby increasing anti-corrosion resistance. Glasses can have an ultraviolet filter - the possibility of sunburn is excluded. Installation on the perimeters of any geometric shape is provided: U-shaped, arched, radial-angular, wedge, trapezoidal.

Preparation of architectural elements for the balcony

This is not one of the important stages, but the most important one. If the balcony structures do not have the required strength and resistance to various loads, then even theoretically it is impossible to talk about high-quality frameless glazing.

What to look for when preparing a balcony?

Parapet

In the houses of the old series, the balcony parapet was made of metal or of thin reinforced concrete slabs. Both options have long exhausted their resource and cannot withstand not only additional, but also the initial design loads. They must be dismantled and new structures built.

But before these works, you should carefully examine the load-bearing panel, and not only your balcony, but also the upper one. When visible damage is detected, the slabs are reinforced.

These are rather difficult jobs and require practical construction skills. Structures are strengthened by metal rods or other shaped rolled products fixed in the front wall. Later they are closed during the covering of the balcony surfaces.

It is not recommended to install frameless glazing on metal parapets, they can bend, and this is fraught with extremely unpleasant situations, up to the loss of frame glasses. Make the parapet from thin blocks or bricks.

Important. Pay attention to the place where the parapet was laid; it should overlap by at least 6 centimeters with the edge of the upper balcony slab. If the dimensions allow increasing the dimensions of the overlap - great, the anchor dowels of the upper profile cannot be mounted at the very edge.

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Foam block

How to strengthen the balcony slab in front of the glazing

Never load the balcony with additional elements if the base plate is in poor condition. Pay due attention to technical revisions and repairs.

The figure shows the types of fixing balcony slabs and possible methods of their restoration. Choose the right option for yourself, taking into account the state of the structure and personal capabilities.

Keep in mind that in some cities it is forbidden to change the appearance of building facades, such work requires special local government permits. In brick houses, the slab rests on reinforced concrete embeds, in panel houses on adjacent reinforced concrete structures. If cracks are found on the slab at the junction with the wall, concrete peeling from the front and back sides of the slab, or reinforcement is visible, then repair is required.

There are fewer problems on the ground floor, you can install simple vertical stops on the ground. The only caveat is that you will have to make columnar foundations under the supports, take measures to exclude the influence of heaving of the earth during freezing / thawing.

If the balcony is on the second and higher floors, then the structures will have to be fixed from below or from above with metal frames. Holes are drilled in the wall, reinforcement is hammered into them. You need at least two such points of support.

Next, a new metal frame is welded, a reinforcing belt is made and the structure is poured with new concrete. Don't overdo it with the thickness of the concrete, it shouldn't add much to the overall weight of the structure.

The frame can be cooked from a corner 45 * 45, there is no need for thicker. It does not hold the effort, but only serves to fix the reinforcement. For reinforcement, use only building reinforcement of a periodic profile, the diameter is 5-6 mm.

It makes no sense to use thicker, in terms of physical strength, a material with such a diameter is quite satisfied. Never reinforce balcony slabs with wire rod. A smooth surface does not provide the desired bond strength, and the structure will not have the desired strength.

It is advisable to consult a professional architect before choosing a method of reinforcing a concrete slab.He knows in which series of houses the balcony slabs were installed by what method, understands the principle of distribution of loads and can choose the best option from an engineering point of view to strengthen the structure.

In addition, the specialist will give an approximate value for the allowable weight gain.

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Portable welding machine

Video - Strengthening the balcony slab, strengthening balcony, metal frame

Step-by-step installation instructions for frameless balcony glazing

Step 1. Check the condition of the supporting elements. The parapet should be perfectly flat and horizontal, deviations along the entire length should not exceed ± 2 mm.

Important.

Make the distance between the parapet and the upper support plate completely the same, otherwise it will not be possible to open / close the sashes. If you find non-parallelism, be sure to eliminate it. It is much easier to do this with a parapet, a screed is placed on top and the problems are solved.

And what to do, if the surface of the parapet is even, and problems with the upper balcony slab ?

1. With an exact level, check the horizontal deviation along the entire perimeter of the slab, determine the maximum value of the deviation along the horizon.
2. Use a laser level to beat off the places on the slab where the upper bearing profile of the frameless glazing will be fixed.

3. If the deviations are within a centimeter, then you will have to install a metal reinforcing mesh. Fix it with strong dowels. Before that, clean the surface of dirt and vegetation, knock down fragile old concrete.

   

   Metal plaster mesh

   

   Example of mesh fixation

4. Tighten the reinforcement mesh, it should not sag, tie it with copper or galvanized wire to the dowels.
5. Plaster the prepared surfaces.

   We recommend using ready-made adhesives for ceramic tiles. They have excellent adhesion and are far superior to traditional cement-sand mixtures in strength.

   

   Plastering

6. Level the surface only with a level, it allows you to constantly control the horizontalness of the surface to be plastered. Turn the level upside down, the position scale will always be in front of your eyes, and use the working plane as a rule. You can rub with ordinary grout.

7. Allow time for the mortar to fully set, it will take at least a week. If the weather is very warm, wet the surface abundantly several times a day. Fast drying significantly reduces the durability of the plaster.

If everything is ready, then you can proceed to the next stage of installation of frameless glazing.

Step 2. Take measurements around the balcony perimeter. You need to measure the height, length and width of the balcony at the level from the parapet to the upper balcony slab. Be careful, the error should not exceed a few millimeters.

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Building levels

Step 3.

Order frameless glazing designs from specialized companies. Prepare hardware and tools. The system can be with an emphasis on the bottom or top profile. Choose the option that you consider more reliable in your case.

Step 4.

Draw lines on the parapet and top plate along which the profiles will be mounted. Take all measurements very carefully, the lines should lie perfectly in one plane. Do the same with the marking of the side profiles.

Step 5. Start securing the top profile.

The distance between the dowels is no more than 30 cm, use only strong structures, buy them with a margin of safety.

Practical advice. When drilling holes in reinforced concrete slabs, there is a chance that the drill will hit the reinforcement. Never damage it, stop drilling the hole and start elsewhere.

Why? Firstly, this is what building codes and regulations require, they prohibit damaging the reinforcing belt of reinforced concrete structures.

Secondly, it is much easier to drill holes in a new location than to cut through the reinforcement. Thirdly, during the drilling of the reinforcement, the hole becomes wider than originally planned. And due to this, the fixing strength decreases.

Important. Don't forget to place the top and bottom drip tray under the horizontal profiles.

Step 6. Reinstall the side profiles.

Step 7. Dismantle the fittings, install the glass profile on the glass. Suppliers often offer already installed glass profiles, which greatly speeds up the installation process.

The number and purpose of special fittings varies depending on the manufacturer's technology. Each of them must issue accompanying technical documentation for their products.With its help, you can easily figure out the purpose of the part, the method of its dismantling and installation. Do not rush to immediately disassemble the structure, carefully study the purpose and function of the elements. Some are made of plastics and may not withstand excessive force.

In addition, unnecessary holes in the profile reduce its bearing characteristics and serve as places for moisture penetration into the internal cavities. These are very undesirable phenomena. In winter, the water freezes and prevents the doors from opening / closing.

Step 8. Place the glass in the profiles, check the ease of movement.

Fasten the fittings, remove the protective self-adhesive film. If the balcony surfaces have not yet been finished, then remove the protective film only at the fixing points of the fittings.

Step 9. Seal the small holes between the profiles and the balcony surfaces with a silicone seal, larger ones are needed blow out with polyurethane foam. After the foam has hardened, cut off the excess and seal with putty or other building materials, depending on the method of finishing the walls, floor and ceiling of the balcony.

Video - Frameless glazing of balconies and loggias

Installation alone cannot be done, involve assistants. Adhere to the safety regulations, drilling holes in the top plates is dangerous. Protect yourself at least with ropes, but it is better to have a special belt. All work is best done in warm weather. You can, of course, carry out the installation of frameless glazing in the winter, but the quality will necessarily deteriorate.

If your frameless glazing system provides that the weight of the glass supports the upper profile, then ordinary spacers can be used to level the lower one. Just install them directly under the mount, otherwise the profile may bend during tightening. Do not use wooden wedges for linings, they decrease in size over time, the structure will begin to wobble.

And one more practical advice. Aluminum can be drilled very poorly with a victor soldered drill.

We recommend that you first install the element on the parapet, mark the fixing points and remove it. Drill holes on the balcony slab with an ordinary drill for metal, and then make holes in concrete structures along them.

This completes the installation work on the installation of frameless glazing, you can start finishing the surfaces. Due to the fact that the balcony turns out to be cold, it is not recommended to use natural materials for wall cladding, it is better to use plastic counterparts.

Practical advice.

It is impractical to glaze small balconies in this way, their small area does not allow equipping them with comfortable recreation areas.In addition, we have already mentioned that frameless glazing almost does not increase the temperature; you can use the balcony only in a warm period. And to convert a balcony into a living space, you need to use other glazing methods that can significantly reduce heat losses.

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Rotary hammers

Possible problems during installation and how to solve them

Unpleasant sounds are emitted during movement of the glass. Reason - plastic rollers do not spin.

Such a disadvantage sometimes suffers from designs of domestic manufacturers. As soon as uncharacteristic sounds appeared, eliminate the cause immediately. Otherwise, flat areas will appear on the round rollers and they will completely stop rotating. This can be done without dismantling the structures. Motorists have long been using technical lubricant WD-40, which contains alcohol, mineral oil, a propellant, and inert ingredients.

Sold in cans with a thin tube. This tube allows you to lubricate hard-to-reach areas. The grease does not freeze, does not dry out, and does not adversely affect plastics.

Glasses move in jerks. Cause - chips got into the profile while drilling holes.

Remove it with a compressor or by hand, clean the surfaces with a soft brush.

After installation, we noticed that the profiles do not support the weight of the glass and bend. An unpleasant but not fatal situation. Mark problem areas, move the leaves apart and install additional anchor dowels. Remember to clean the inner surfaces of the profiles.

Video - Frameless balcony glazing