Furniture maker mistakes - how to redo everything

Furniture maker mistakes - how to redo everything Errors of furniture makers in the assembly - how to find and whether it is possible to fix it yourself

High-quality materials, expensive imported fittings - can this be a guarantee that the furniture will serve for a long time? It is the quality of the furniture assembly that will be important. Sometimes it is difficult for the buyer to immediately determine how well this or that piece of furniture was assembled. But during operation, all the shortcomings will be immediately noticeable, and poor-quality assembly can lead to the fact that this will not only cause a lot of inconvenience, but also lead to the fact that the furniture will fail. Is it worth assembling it yourself?

Most often, furniture is delivered unassembled, and at the same time packed in cardboard. If the delivery is carried out by a courier, and not by the manufacturer, we recommend that you immediately check the presence of all ordered items, as well as their integrity.

In the case when it is not possible to carry out an inspection, it is better to put a mark in the invoice, which was taken without inspection (and just in case to photograph it).

General information

You should not immediately refuse to assemble furniture, because most manufacturers give a guarantee if the assembly is carried out by their representatives ... The assembly cost may vary, but most often it is 10% of the total order amount.

Problems may arise with the assembly of furniture that is produced by small companies, because they do not always provide clear instructions, and therefore it will not be possible to assemble furniture with high quality and correctly. In the manufacture of custom-made furniture, the assembly service will be included in the final cost at the very beginning, because assembly will require a lot of experience.

Signs of high-quality assembled furniture

So, let's consider what will indicate that the furniture is assembled with high quality:

  1. Furniture maker mistakes - how to redo everything The doors must be tightly closed, there should be no friction between the body and the door.
  2. The movement of drawers with pull-out runners should be quiet, nothing should interfere with the movement, should not stagger on different sides.
  3. There should be no skewed furniture, and to check this, it will be enough to measure both diagonals with a construction tape.

  4. Laminate must not be damaged - this applies to both facades and the surface of the countertop.
  5. Be sure to pay attention to the gaps in the facade so that they are uniform along the entire perimeter.
  6. The handles must be well secured.
  7. If the furniture has external holes, they must be closed with plugs in the color of the furniture.
  8. Hanging pieces of furniture must be securely fixed to the walls, and there should never be any gaps between it and the wall.

  9. If the furniture is on the floor, no wobbling is allowed. If the buyer knows what his floor has disadvantages, irregularities, then it is better to give preference to models with adjustable legs.
  10. Rear wall.For some reason, no one often pays attention to what it is connected to, but it is recommended to use brackets or self-tapping screws with a length of 1.5 cm, you can even combine the use of elements.

    It is not recommended to use nails, and do not underestimate the importance of fixing the back wall, because the correctness of the cabinet and its geometry will depend on this.

  11. Horizontal and vertical surfaces must be clearly level.
  12. Shelves, pencil cases in the kitchen, which fit tightly to each other, should be pulled together with a tie.
  13. The hinges on swing doors must be secured well, not wobbly.
  14. The PVC edge should be well glued, and on the edges of the chipboard everything is even and without chips.

  15. Be sure to check all mechanisms - swing, lifting and retractable.

Next, let's look at what mistakes furniture makers can make and how to fix it yourself.

Crookedly drilled holes with a drill "exit"

Furniture maker mistakes - how to redo everything Usually, such misses are often from careless marking or incorrect position of the electric drill (i.e. not installed perpendicular surface) during drilling.

As a preventive measure, it is worth paying as much attention as possible to the markup, because smart people do not in vain say: "Measure seven times, cut one!" In addition, it helps a lot to use marking jigs, in which all basic usual sizes are often marked. You can fight the same tilt of the drill with the help of the drill guide (which helps to hold the drill in the required direction), and everything comes with experience.

How to solve the problem: if the drill came out on the side that is not visible (from the bottom of the box bottom or near the back wall), then you can do nothing at all, and if the design makes it possible to turn the part and remove the defect from the visible area, then do just that. If the part cannot be turned over and the chip is clearly visible, then you will need to buy furniture wax (ideally hard) and rub all the effects. Sometimes they can be extremely difficult to hide, and therefore it is better not to allow them.

Furniture facade with milling

This error can take you by surprise. The fact is that the facades are most often screwed onto self-tapping screws with a length of 3 cm (the thickness of laminated chipboard in the form of two elements is just 3.2 cm, that is, 0.2 cm is still in stock). But the screwing of the facade is performed on a drawer with milling, and it happens that the self-tapping screw comes out from the front side, which means that the facade is damaged.

It comes out exactly in the place of milling, where the minimum thickness of the facade was.

Preventive Measures: Do not mark the mounting holes on the front wall of the drawers opposite the milled drawings.

Ways to solve the problem: order a new facade (although it will be expensive, but still better). Alternatively, buy furniture wax and cover the hole with it.

Swing fronts (hinges opposite the shelf)

This situation is rather unpleasant if, after adding cup hinges, you notice that the striker should have been screwed into a place that is already the shelf is occupied, and it is impossible to do everything otherwise.

Preventive measures: remember this when marking (as well as the fact that in each section of the cabinet the shelves can be placed at different levels and all must be taken into account) and correctly place the holes for the cutter Forstner.

Ways to solve the problem: if the loop comes out below the shelf and only rests against it with an "eye" from the striker, then it can be cut using a grinder or a hacksaw for metal. If the hinge is opposite the shelf, then you can move it, cover the hole with wax, or replace the facade.

The handle holes do not match the holes in the facade

The quality of furniture assembly is not always excellent, and there are very gross mistakes, for example, when the handle holes do not line up with the holes in the facade. The reason for such a problem may be another carelessness during the marking, as well as the offset of the drill during drilling.

Preventive measures: remember the typical sizes of handles (64, 96, 128… 256… 480 mm and more) and be careful when marking. Also use wood drills (equipped with a centering pin) that will not move when drilling .

Ways to solve the problem: Ideally, it is important to replace the damaged facade, if the displacement is small (within 0.1-0.2 cm), then you can try to expand the holes and screw on the handle (the enlarged holes on one side will be hidden by the base of the handle, and the screw cap will be on the other).

It so happens that the master "smears" a whole centimeter, and at this hole it was necessary to drill, and the extra hole was hidden by the base of the handle, which was wide (traditional wax was used on the back side).

Inaccurate chips at the point of the drill exit

This can happen if the drilling was performed incorrectly (on the weight or on a soft surface).

Preventive measures: should be drilled with well-sharpened drills, and placing a hard flat surface under the drill exit - it would be better to be a piece of chipboard, and you also do not need to press hard on the drill. If you drill a canopy, then such a piece can be pressed tightly from the back with the other hand. If this is not possible, then first use a thin drill, and then use a drill of the required diameter.

Ways to solve the problem: the finished chip (for small sizes) can be slightly trimmed using an engraving conical cutter and / or closed with a decorative type plug.

A 2 mm edge in a corner cabinet protrudes beyond the edge of the rack

This fact is critical for corner cabinets, and that's why - when joining such parts (for example, racks and the horizons of the cabinet are rimmed 0.2 cm PVC edge) dissonance appears - the edge cut from the horizon begins to protrude beyond the 0.2 cm rack edge, while the width of the rack and the length of that part of the horizon, which are joined, is the same (50 cm each).

Preventive measures: such a moment should be taken into account when designing (ie, making the rack wider) or making the edging by 0.

4 mm.

Ways to solve the problem: cut the uncropped part of the larger part with a router or on a sizing frame and push the stand forward a little.

Extra holes

Such a "jamb" can be sealed with a self-adhesive or plastic plug (especially if the whole assembly is decorated with the same elements) and it will not be conspicuous.

The drawer turned out narrower than planned

There are errors in the calculations - the drawer turned out, but narrower than provided for by the box, and therefore falls through between the guides.

Ways to solve the problem: if the error is small, about 0.

5 cm, then you can put a couple of washers under the guides, and then move them away from the box walls. It will turn out something like this - it looks quite noble, it will not produce the feeling of hack-work.

Preventive measures: To count everything carefully, and it is advisable to recheck more than once.

The hinges rest against the mounting shelf

During the addition of the hinge in a box with a vertical mounting strip (cabinet and sink on top), we set the hole for the hinge 10 cm from the edge of the facade , and the loop begins to abut against the bar.

Preventive measures: Think in advance what and where to add.

Ways to solve the problem: make a cutout in the plan for the loop.

Rafix protrudes beyond the edge of the part

The Rafix tie from Hettis is extremely demanding on the accuracy of the additive, and the center of the hole should be at a distance of 0.95 cm +/- 0.1 cm. When it is displaced outward, part of the case will go beyond the edge and will not allow the eccentric to tightly tighten the parts.

Preventive measures: fit the holes more precisely (for this you need to hold the drill perpendicular or use a machine).

Solution: Grind the eccentric body with a sanding block so that there are no protruding parts.

Thickening of the facade with glass

Another unexpected moment, which can hardly be predicted, happens when the assembly of kitchen drawers is finished, and the front edges were not deepened into the box, and fronts with glass, which are screwed onto special holders. Because of this, the door begins to become 0.4 cm thick (inside the box) and rests on the shelves, which prevents them from closing normally.

Preventive measures: do not forget about this and design drawers with shelves that will be deepened by 0.5-1 cm.

Solutions problems: remove the shelves and file them along the rear edge by 0.5-1 cm.

Who is responsible for faulty assembly and other issues

Who should be responsible for damage during furniture assembly? Naturally, the master assembler, and if the damage appeared due to his fault, then the restoration or replacement will be performed at his expense.

But, as you know, there are different cases, and sometimes you have to restore damaged property with your own hands and at your own expense. How will the furniture be re-assembled and disassembled? Everything will depend on most factors - what material the furniture is made of, what fasteners to use for assembly. If the item was assembled on rafiks, corners, minifisks, then it will suffer less during assembly, and if dowels and confirmations are used, then the furniture will suffer more.