Modern ceramic tiles are an excellent finishing material, actively used in construction and renovation.
Its excellent characteristics make it an almost indispensable material for walls, floors and other surfaces.
It is beautiful, durable, waterproof, practical, hygienic, easy to care for, and has a fairly reasonable cost. If desired, anyone can learn, if not professionally, but neatly and efficiently lay tiles.
Is it possible to drill a tile with your own hands? After all, whatever one may say, and holes will sooner or later be needed: for fixing shelves and various accessories, for hanging furniture, for carrying out various communications, for mounting switches and sockets, and for other possible needs.
What can complicate the work with the material? Let's remember how it is made.
Technological features of the process involve firing at high temperatures.
In addition, the material has a high density and has a particularly hard (especially in the presence of glazing) surface, while it is characterized by a certain fragility.
The material does not have plasticity, and therefore, if not too careful in handling, drilling and cutting, it can crack, form chips and even fall apart.
In addition, the hard surface acts abrasively on the cutting tools, rendering the drills unusable and blunt very quickly.
Therefore, it is so important to observe a number of certain rules:
Hence it follows that it is necessary to use special drills made of heavy-duty materials that easily overcome hard structures. Also, they must have a certain sharpening and configuration.
What is needed to drill tiles without loss?
A quality screwdriver with a sufficiently powerful source nutrition. Sometimes such a tool is enough.
Electric drill with speed control option.
The simplest, already forgotten by some, hand drill . For making small and not too deep holes, it is usually enough. In addition, there will definitely not be any problems with adjusting the rotation speed. In some cases, even a banal brace is used.
Special tools - jigs : they can be used to facilitate the process of drilling straight holes. With the help of suction cups, they are attached to the surface, preventing the drill, especially at the beginning of work, from going to the side.
Special blowers .Under low pressure, they supply water to the workplace, which cools the hot tool.
Special spear (feather) drills , specially designed for tiles.
They are very convenient for making holes of small and medium diameter (for dowel fasteners).
For secure clamping in the tool holder, they can be equipped with a cylindrical shank. Hex drills are produced for the size of standard bits - they are used in working with a screwdriver.
In an ordinary tile, such a drill can make, on average, no more than thirty holes before failure. If you have to work with porcelain stoneware, then this figure is reduced to two or three pieces.
Core drills with corundum or diamond coating , which are included into the category of professional tools: they will perfectly cope not only with tiles, but also with porcelain stoneware.
Such drills are like a hollow tube, thereby significantly facilitating the workflow. Waste is removed through the cavity without obstruction. They are usually made to make holes large enough.
Drill "ballerina" .
It can be used for one-time work when it is necessary to make a hole of significant diameter. It has a low cost, and easily copes with the task.
Tungsten carbide drills . This option is not one of the most successful, since there may be difficulties when the mechanism passes through the upper, most durable tile layer. They are more suitable for deepening holes that have already been made by other nozzles.
Heavy-duty carbide drills with sharp-angle one-sided grinding . The hardest, outermost layer of the tile passes perfectly. Such products, made by a good manufacturer, will work for a rather long time.
Similar to those just mentioned, tungsten carbide-coated drills . They are used not only for drilling ceramics, but also hard natural materials such as granite and marble.
They come on sale mainly in sets of various diameters, they are used more often by professionals.
Before in total, helpful tips.
It is good if you have unnecessary tiles or fragments of sufficient size. Then you can first practice, and then move on to the main job.
Correct markings must be done in advance.
However, it is perfectly acceptable to mark the drilling point on the tile surface with a regular marker or pencil.
Just keep in mind that not every pencil is capable of leaving a mark on the tile. In addition, such a mark can easily be accidentally smeared or erased.
The way out is very simple: a piece of simple masking tape is glued to the place of the future hole, on top of which a mark is already drawn.
But the benefits of scotch tape are not limited to this.
It is much easier to start drilling with it, since thanks to its presence, the edge of the drill will not slip from the intended place.
Control the speed
Remember that when working with this material it is strongly not recommended to operate at high speeds.
The optimum speed is between one hundred and four hundred revolutions.
The specific value in each case depends on the characteristics of the tile itself, on the type and diameter of the drill, and is usually determined empirically.
Disable the beat function
Remember! If the drill has a special hammer function, check that it is switched off every time before drilling.
Prepare the base
When working with non laid material, you need to prepare a functional and comfortable workplace with a stable flat surface.
A material is placed under the tiles that does not interfere with the free operation of the drill: drywall, plywood or wood.
Calculate the pressing force
The working part of the tool can get very hot during the drilling process, heating up the place on the tile. From this it can crack.
Therefore, you should not get carried away and put too much effort.
Cool the drill in a timely manner
Take your time, better periodically cool the drill, dipping it into engine oil.
If the work takes place on a horizontal surface, local cooling can be arranged.
For this, around the potential hole, I make a closed shaft of plasticine, which is filled with water.
Professionals often use the forced supply of a special cooling solution. For this purpose, a special pumping vessel is provided, with the help of which liquid is uniformly supplied to the drilling zone.
Control the tilt of the drill
Important! During operation, the drill is located strictly perpendicular to the surface of the tile.
Usually there are special devices for this, but if they are not, then you will have to monitor this during the entire drilling process.
Protect your eyes and hands
When punching large holes in ceramics, the sharpest shards will often be scattered. Therefore, be sure to take measures to protect your eyes and hands reliably and thoroughly.
These holes are usually needed when you need to place a cabinet, shelf, mirror, hanger, piece of furniture or other accessory on the wall.
Most often used plastic driven dowels up to 12 mm in diameter.
Consider the option when the wall is already finally tiled with tiles, under which a completely frozen solution or glue ...
It is better if it will not be located near the edge of the tile (no closer than one and a half centimeters).
If this rule is not followed, the edge of the tile may crack during use and even break off from vibration and overheating.
Large holes (20 mm or more) are usually made in the material before it is laid on the floor or walls. The tiles are placed on a workbench, after which a careful marking is carried out.
In this case, the technology of work may differ: it depends on which drill is selected for the work.
If the choice fell on the so-called "ballerina" , then it is advisable to first make a small through hole (3-4 mm) in the center of the tile with a small drill.
This procedure will greatly simplify further work. By directly installing the ballerina (her movable leg), we use it to set not the diameter of the future hole, but its radius. Pay attention to this. Once installed, the locking screw is tightened tightly to prevent the leg from moving.
During operation, the drill should be located strictly perpendicular to the surface of the material: it must provide uniform pressure at low speed.
With a lot of pressure, it is difficult to hold the tile in place, and the drill may well jam. Make sure that the same cutting depth is obtained along the entire circumference.
The process will be greatly simplified if you drill the tiles with a special drill-crown : diamond, tungsten carbide or corundum. These drills often have a special shank for fixing, or they are made in the form of a collapsible structure, which allows the use of drills of different diameters.
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