How to insulate the floor in a bath with your own hands

How to properly insulate the floor in the bath with your own hands - the best methods

The bath is not just that place where you can wash and relax. For a Russian, a bathhouse is a kind of club, even, if you wish, a sanctuary. But even such a sacred place is important to pay attention to, and it should not be uncomfortable and cold. A Russian bathhouse should perfectly keep warm, keeping it for a long time.

And swimming in a room that constantly loses temperature is also not very pleasant.

It is for this reason that the excellent thermal insulation of all rooms in the bath becomes quite an important task during its construction. Consider how to insulate the floor in the bath with your own hands, and the walls, ceiling, and floor.

What materials should be used for floor insulation

The high level of humidity and temperature that is constantly present during the use of the bath dictate a thorough approach to the selection of materials used for thermal insulation ...

In a simple room that does not have extreme operating conditions, almost all mineral-based insulation can be used. But with thermal insulation of the floor in the bath room, experienced builders recommend using a heat-insulating material with a cellular structure.

The most suitable material that meets all high requirements is foam of all types. It is he who is constantly used to insulate floors in rooms with high humidity levels. There are several approaches to the question of what kind of material is required to organize the floor in the bath room.

So, it can be made from concrete, or wood can be used. When insulating a floor surface of all types, there are certain general rules, which we will talk about below.

Details

Thermal insulation of wooden floors

In this case, if you need to insulate an existing wooden floor, then you will need initially dismantle the existing flooring. It is required to carry out work according to the following algorithm:

1. Remove the floorboards and skirting boards. It is recommended that you sign the removed elements in order not to get confused during future styling.

2. Check the timber elements and the damaged areas need to be sawed out and replaced with fresh pieces of identical dimension.
3. Build up the lower edges of the log with smaller bars, creating a support for the rough type overlap.
4. Use cheap lumber to form a rough slab. Leave a 1 cm gap between the floorboards and the joists.
5. Lay the sub-floor from the board scraps, leaving small gaps between them in order to prevent deformation of the floor from thermal deformation.

   The trims from the boards can be stacked freely without fixing them.

In this case, if there is a soil saturated with water under your bath room, form a steam insulation in order to protect the thermal insulator from the effects of warming groundwater.

Steam insulation should cover the subfloor and the joists too. At a low level of groundwater type, use a vapor barrier membrane, but at a high level, it is better to use waterproofing materials, such as glassine or simple roofing material.

1. The insulating layer should be laid so that it covers the entire floor, covering the walls by 0.

   15 meters, and thereby creating a kind of "trough". If your waterproofing is supplied in rolls, lay it with an overlap and fix the strips with tape. To prevent mixing of steam and waterproofing, staple it to the joists and wall surfaces.

2. The niches between the timber logs must be filled with a thermal insulator, leaving about 2 cm of ventilation air gap between the top of the bar and the surface of the insulator from above. In this case, if the thickness of the insulator comes close to the finish coating, place a crate on top of it to obtain ventilation.

   The lattice pitch should be approximately 0.4 meters.

3. Add another layer of waterproofing, preferably a membrane type material, to prevent moisture from entering the thermal insulator. The waterproofing should be between the battens and the thermal insulation layer.
4. Lay the floorboards and skirting boards, cut off the protruding edges of the waterproofing.

Next, consider how to insulate a concrete floor in a bath with your own hands.

Thermal insulation of concrete flooring

The concrete floor in the bath room needs to be insulated after laying the rough screed. It is important to follow this algorithm:

1. Place a layer of waterproofing on the rough screed. In the role of it, you can use simple polyethylene. Spread the film over the entire floor area, with an approach to wall surfaces of at least 5 cm, and the excess can then be cut off.

   When using roll materials, overlap in the area of ​​10 cm, fixing the joints with adhesive tape.

2. Install thermal insulation material. Simple polystyrene can be used as an insulation material. To fix the foam boards, it is important to form frames from wood blocks, attach them to the floor surface with screws and self-tapping screws on dowel plugs.

3. Pour the foam plates and fixing mortar frames, and then place the reinforcement mesh on top.

   The thickness of the screed over the foam sheets should be no less than 2 cm.

4. After the reinforcing screed has dried, a rough screed must be poured to level it. We use a self-leveling mixture, and the total thickness of the screed above the foam should be from 5 to 8 cm. Level the finishing screed with a needle roller to get rid of all air bubbles.

And if there is no floor, how to make water heating of the floor surface?

Making a water heated floor in a bath

The best option for floor insulation from a simple bath will be the arrangement of a warm water floor.

It is required to carry out work according to the following scheme:

• Prepare the surface for installation work, for this, eliminate the flaws in the floor - protrusions, chips and cracks.
• Spread thermal insulation material over the entire surface to prevent unnecessary waste of electrical energy.
• Attach the damping tape along the walls of the room to prevent deformation of the flooring during temperature expansion.
• Place the reinforcement mesh on the floor, lay the pipe with the liquid type heat carrier, avoiding places where you do not need to heat the floors. The maximum distance from the pipe to the wall should be 10 cm.

• When laying the piping system, leave the pipes a little free to ensure their safety in the event of thermal deformation.
• Connect the piping system to the heating using an outlet and inlet manifold. Next, you need to carefully fix the pipe joints using couplings and winding.
• Check if the water underfloor heating system is functioning correctly at the maximum water flow rate, carefully monitor for possible leaks.

With good test results, it is required to form a cement screed, to begin with rough, and then self-leveling.

• Place an absorbent layer between the final coat and the screed, and then you can proceed with the final coat.

As you can see, there are different methods of floor insulation in the bath, and you can choose the most convenient case for yourself.

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