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This is due to both the reasonable price and the high level of practicality of the material, its durability, moisture resistance, environmental friendliness, minimal maintenance and a large selection of stylish patterns.
Plus can be called the fact that laying linoleum on a wooden floor with your own hands is also possible! Linoleum is also suitable for industrial premises, the dirtiest spaces of the house, for example, an entrance hall or a corridor, and for any area of an apartment in principle. If a room or space involves active use, then experts recommend purchasing semi-commercial linoleum, since its level of wear resistance is higher.
To choose linoleum, you need to take into account such parameters as:
This is important, since the material is sold in rolls a certain width: 2.5 m, 3.4 m and 4 m.It is better if you manage to choose linoleum of such a width that you can lay it without joints;
If linoleum is needed for industrial premises, then it is better to choose relin or rubber linoleum, it has a high level of hydrophobicity and good elasticity;
The advantages of linoleum, which contains natural components (for example, wood flour, cork, jute or flax oil), are obvious: no harmful emissions, safety, but there is also a minus - a shorter period of use;
Wooden floor, in most cases, has a number of defects that must be eliminated before the process of laying linoleum begins .
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The smoother the surface, the easier it will be to lay linoleum and the longer your linoleum will last.
Since it is a rather thin and elastic material, which means that gradually it will take shape the surface on which it is located.
The flaws that need to be removed include gaps and gaps between floorboards, potholes, cracks, chips, creaking floorboards, sagging boards, old paint.
These problems are quite easy to solve :
When all defects have been removed and the skirting boards have been removed, the floor must be leveled either with plywood sheets or with a plane / sander.
The choice depends on your experience with these tools.
A more convenient way is to use plywood, although it is a little more laborious. If the slopes and differences are relatively small , then it is better to use 5 mm thick plywood, buy plywood with a moisture-resistant layer if linoleum is placed in rooms with high humidity.
After the floor is ready, a special glue is applied to the wooden surface, and plywood is already laid on it, and then fixed with self-tapping screws at a distance of 15-20 cm, the heads of the self-tapping screws deepen, and then putty, like the gaps between sheets. Finally, the plywood is coated with linseed oil or quick-drying paint.
After that, linoleum laying can begin.
You can also use a self-leveling mixture for leveling a wooden floor, it is optimal when drops of the order of 2 cm are encountered.
Before applying such a mixture, all gaps and crevices must be hermetically sealed.
A dry wooden floor is impregnated with a primer, the walls at floor level are covered with an insulating material, a wooden strip is installed in the doorway, which will limit the future floor. A reinforcing mesh is installed on the wooden surface, then the process of pouring the floor follows, the mixture is evenly distributed with a rubber mop or a roller with spikes. After everything is dry, laying the linoleum on the wooden floor can begin.
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If the floor is ready for linoleum laying , the material itself should be prepared.
Unfold the roll and wait until it is completely unfolded.
More comfortable conditions for this will be a temperature of 16 degrees and humidity of the order of 40-70%. When all the folds have straightened out, the kinks have disappeared - the material is ready.
If there are still folds in some places, you can try to straighten them by placing something heavy on top.
But if you cannot remove them, it is better to exchange such a roll for another, otherwise such flaws will remain on the floor after installation, and this will not make the room more beautiful.
Correct laying of linoleum on a wooden floor assumes that all work will be done as accurately as possible, all defects that have arisen must be eliminated immediately, therefore that over time it will be more problematic to do so.
Bubbles can be removed by piercing them with an awl, glue must be injected into the resulting void with a syringe, and then press it tightly place to the floor with something heavy.
If the linoleum has come off - and this happens if moisture has penetrated under it - the unsticked part needs to be peeled back, cleaned and dried, then stick it again in the same way as during the initial installation, and then fix it with a load for several days.
It is better to take the size of linoleum according to the maximum values of the length and width of the walls, not forgetting about doorways, niches, etc., for this it is better to take a 5-centimeter stock.
Optimal for rooms no more than 14 m2.
Stages of work: spread the linoleum, level it, cut off the excess, but leave additional gaps near the wall about 1.5 cm so that the linoleum has the ability to stretch a little at room temperature (if it is not will be provided, then it is likely that the linoleum will swell along the walls) and at the end fix the linoleum with baseboards.
The advantage of the method is that the cover, fixed in this way, can be easily removed.
If the area of the room is more than 22m2, the technology of laying linoleum on a wooden floor by gluing to a wooden floor with a special glue is applied.
You will also need masking tape, a ruler, silicone glue, a spatula, a paint knife, a roller, plinths, screws, a screwdriver and a pencil.
Stages of linoleum installation
from the following stages of work: linoleum of a suitable size is laid out in the room, the excess is cut off, there should be supplies on the sides, then the linoleum rises up with the base, the wooden floor under this part is covered with glue using a wide spatula. You need to carefully read the instructions for using the glue on the package and observe all the nuances mentioned.
Then linoleum is laid on the glue, it must be smoothed all the time to prevent the formation of bubbles or creases, it is better to do this with a roller. Where seams are formed, masking tape and silicone glue should be used.
The masking tape must be removed when the joints are secured.
When the glue is dry throughout the room, you need to install a plinth, the choice of which is not fundamental and depends only on the wishes of the owner of the house and design preferences.
The only important point is that you should not attach the plinth directly to the linoleum, because during the shrinkage process, the plinth may move away from the wall, it will not turn out very nicely.
If you need to put several strips of linoleum, then it is also better to use the gluing method, and there are some nuances: the joints of the linoleum need to be glued, but it is better to use the cold welding method. When masking tape is glued along the seam, cold welding glue goes along the seam and penetrates into the seam to a depth of 3 mm, the excess glue should evaporate by itself, it does not need to be removed.
After the glue has dried, the masking tape is removed. The overlap of the linoleum strips should be at least 10 cm, remember to match the pattern.
You can use the method using double-sided tape, then it must be glued in the form of a grid of about 50 cm, on which the linoleum will be glued slowly and carefully. The adhesive tape can be glued crosswise where the maximum load is expected.
Linoleum is glued in parts, constantly smoothed out, then gaps of about 10 mm are made near the walls, where the plinth is installed, in the doorway the linoleum is fixed with a rail.
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