How to lay tiles in the bathroom and toilet + video and photos. It often happens that you need to make repairs in a separate room - a kitchen, a sanitary unit or in a living room. For example, we are talking about laying tiles in the toilet or bathroom. In ordinary apartments, this room is small and it is sometimes extremely difficult to find a master who will agree to such a volume of work. In addition, in an apartment where other people still live, such repairs can become problematic.
The only way out is to do everything yourself.
Due to the small size of the room, you can handle the work yourself. The advantages of this option are that you can lay tiles in the bathroom or toilet in small steps and adjust to your own schedule, and not to the master's schedule.
- Adhesive for ceramic tiles.
- Deep penetration primer.
- Comb trowel with the required tooth height.
- Water building level.
- Crosses 2 mm.
- Rubber mallet (mallet).
- Grinder or tile cutter.
- A drill equipped with a whisk for mixing the construction mixture.
- The right choice of ceramic tiles.
- Container for mixing the adhesive.
And now let's consider what needs to be prepared in advance to perform the work.
So, first you need to draw a floor plan, take measurements with a tape measure - the length, height of surfaces, width, which will be tiled. Based on these data, you should determine how many tiles you need to buy - approximately 15% of the volume needs to be added to the resulting area (generally, from 10 to 20%, and the indicator depends on the size and pattern of the tiles).
Usually, it is behind the toilet that there is a hard-to-reach area in which the piping is located. This niche is used as an installation for a household cabinet, and to improve the aesthetic appearance, this place is often covered with drywall. here the choice depends only on you, because if you sew a niche, then it will be problematic to get into it to replace pipes if necessary.
For this reason, before making such a decision, you should find out in what condition your pipes are, and if you need to replace them, then do the work before everything is sewn up with drywall. To access the valves and meters, it is required to use special revision hatches. Next, you should calculate how many tiles you need, and for this you can use a handy online calculator.
How to properly lay tiles in the toilet? You should choose high-quality tiles that do not have chips and defects.The surface must necessarily be flat, not have bulges and "saucers" (if this is not provided for by the design).
You can check this if you attach the tiles to one another with the front side. It is extremely important that the tiles are from the same batch, because it so happens that in different batches they differ in shade. You should also pay attention to the size indicated on the box. Tiles sometimes differ even in fractions of a millimeter.
Good quality material is sorted in the factory by size and distributed in different batches so that everything is the same.
But if you buy two different colors of tiles, and plan to lay them, for example, in a checkerboard pattern, then make sure that the dimensions are the same. For example, a dark colored tile will be 0.5 mm larger, and a light one 0.5 mm smaller, which can play a cruel joke. Subject to the same joint width, after laying five tiles, there may be a difference of 5 mm between the two rows.
This is not a marriage, but a production technology (though we are not talking about expensive brands). This should be known in advance and taken into account. For walls, it is better to choose not heavy tiles to make it easier to cut and install.
To the layout of the tile material should be taken seriously. To do this, you need to draw a plan of each wall (you can immediately on the walls, but ideally, you first need a plan on paper) and lay out the tiles.
It is also worth choosing a tile size so that it needs to be cut as little as possible. At this stage, also decide which side you will trim the tiles from if they do not fit entirely within the size of the walls.
The first styling option - with symmetrical, but classic. In this case, one or two identical tiles should be placed in the center of the wall and laid out to the sides from them. Trimming is done at the edges (you need to trim the same pieces on both sides).
The advantages of the method are that the walls will have a complete look, but the disadvantages are the overspending of the tile material and additional cutting work.
The second installation option - will only trim on one side. This is a more practical option, although not entirely correct from the point of view of standard laying technology, but also acceptable. In this case, solid tiles should be placed in the most visible place. In the case of a regular toilet, these will be the distant parts from the doors.
The center wall is best laid out in a standard way. The advantages are that the consumption is more economical and the labor intensity is much less, but the disadvantages are that there is not always a little-viewed corner.
The surface must be firm and even. Old paint and plaster that peels off should be removed from the surface and the wall should be primed. The surface should be free of dust and grease stains.
Small irregularities should be leveled in advance with plaster mortar. If the walls are uneven, then they should be leveled and plaster made along the lighthouses. Since now is the 21st century, it is better to try to maximize the correct geometric dimensions of the room, which will determine the final result and the difficulties with which it will be required to achieve it. It is best to prepare the surface as best as possible to obtain a high quality result. After you remove the old plaster and level the walls, you should measure the room again and compare the obtained data with the layout diagram.
Make adjustments if necessary.
To properly lay tiles in the bathroom or toilet, you need to make a layout, and for this transfer the entire layout to the wall. At a minimum, you need to draw the main vertical and horizontal lines along which you will lay out the first row. Vertical seams will be most conveniently checked by a plumb line, and for this, a screw should be screwed in from above, in the place of the beacon vertical seam, and then a plumb line should be attached to it. For control, plumb lines can be placed in several places at once.
Horizontal seams do so - first measure the estimated height of the horizontal beacon row and make a notch, and with the help of the water level make a second notch and draw a horizontal line between them. Also, using the water level, we transfer the horizontal line to the rest of the walls. This will be the main stacking control line.
Where is the best place to start laying tiles
There is no definite answer to this question, because everything will depend on the situation. If there is already a properly leveled floor prepared, then you can start with it.
The advantage of this method is that the floor level will already be known for sure, and you will be able to correctly calculate the vertical breakdown of the walls. You should start with the walls, and do it right. Sometimes such an order begins to dictate the existing circumstances - for example, in the near future, a toilet bowl needs to be replaced and it would be logical to combine this with laying tiles on the floor. Here you should immediately pay attention to the installation height of the toilet. The thing is that the outlet of the sewage system in modern toilets is placed in such a way that during its installation it is required to either make a "pedestal" or raise the floor level.
If you haven't thought of this question yet, it might be better to do a top-down layout.
You can start laying tiles from bottom to top and top to bottom. Similarly, you can start laying it from the edge of the walls, as well as from the center. Modern ceramic adhesives create excellent conditions for laying in every direction. You need to take a good glue, and if you prepared the solution correctly, and also met all the conditions for the thickness of the adhesive layer, then the tile will not slide down the wall and the direction of installation can be absolutely any.
Each master has his own preferences, and the basic principle will be laying along beacon lines or a row.
If there is a flat screed on the floor, then the markings can be made from below the floor. In this case, it is worth considering the thickness of the floor tiles and adhesive, as well as the wall joint (the joint between the bottom wall surface and the floor tile). It can be made wider than everything else, and sometimes it is even recommended to make it up to 1 cm thick.If you do not have a floor, then the calculation of the rows can be done from above, and the bottom row will be cut.
Here you need to decide which row is preferable to make uncircumcised - bottom or top. One of the most correct and convenient ways would be to fill a horizontal bar (you can at the level of the second or third row) and start laying the lighthouse row along it. Beginners are encouraged to start in this way, and given that there is limited space in the toilet, it may be more correct to start laying out the first row at eye level to make it more convenient.
It is worth recalling that before laying, the walls should be primed and the mortar should dry for 2 days. The mixture should be of high quality, with deep penetration.
The glue should be diluted with clean water and mixed using the mixer attachment that goes to the drill. The proportions are indicated on the packaging. The adhesive composition is diluted in small portions, because its suitability for use is limited in time. Depending on the size of the tiles, the size of the tooth on the comb should be selected. For wall tiles, 0.
4 and 0.6 cm are usually suitable. Choosing the right trowel with ridges helps to improve the optimum thickness of the adhesive. As experts recommend, the layer should be from 0.5 to 0.
7 cm. The optimal tile thickness is 0.2 cm. This is achieved by aligning with a 6 mm comb at an angle of 45 degrees, and then lightly pressing against the wall. Compliance with the recommendations for the thickness of the adhesive layer will facilitate laying and leveling.
Sequence of actions:
- The adhesive composition is evenly applied to the wall using a spatula.
- Next, use a comb to make the alignment - press the comb against the wall at an angle of 45 degrees, slide over the layer of glue and remove the excess.
- The tiles should be laid on the wall, pressed lightly with "vibrating" movements and aligned along the beacon lines.
- Attach the tiles to the wall, but within 5 minutes it can be adjusted to achieve correct placement.
- For a uniform thickness of seams, place the auxiliary crosses.
If not, you can use other tabs of the required thickness from materials that do not swell.
It remains to check the accuracy of the masonry using the building level - horizontal, vertical and evenness. Correct the installation by lightly tapping the tiles with a mallet. Then you can stack everything else. The most important thing is to lay the first row correctly.
Further, with the correct application of the composition with a comb, the tiles will already be automatically installed in the correct position and you will only need to level them a little. This only works for aligned walls. Uneven surfaces will take a little longer to tinker with.
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