How to make a built-in wardrobe with your own hands

How to make a built-in wardrobe with your own hands How to make a built-in wardrobe in a house with your own hands

Constant war for a place in a house / apartment is an occupation many people who do not have the largest housing. For this reason, different types of furniture items have appeared for a long time, which help to save precious meters in the hallway and room.

Built-in wardrobes in the house - high, comfortable, and therefore very roomy - will become salvation. Not everyone is able to choose the right models in the store, and the wrong size of furniture will be the culprit.

You can do it differently - make a built-in wardrobe with your own hands.

If the option does not scare you, then first familiarize yourself with the upcoming work. This knowledge provides a chance to avoid potential mistakes that lie in wait for beginners.

General information

Advantages and disadvantages

Only after familiarization with the advantages and disadvantages of such a process can the final verdict - to be or not to be built-in wardrobes in the house. The pluses include the following:

  1. How to make a built-in wardrobe with your own hands Great cost savings, since purchased designs will cost very expensive. If for the manufacture of new pieces of furniture it was decided to disassemble the old cabinets, then the benefit is undeniable.

  2. Rare apartments are ways to boast perfectly flat walls, do not require lengthy and costly leveling. In this case, the built-in closet will easily and gracefully mask the flaws, saving the money that would have to be spent on repairs.
  3. Purchased pieces of furniture do not always satisfy all the needs of family members, because in every home there is a special set of items and things that must be placed in a built-in wardrobe. Making with your own hands is the only chance of getting an ideally comfortable storage, since it is better for the master to take into account all the wishes of family members.
  4. Saving usable space - in almost every apartment there is an opportunity to find a convenient place for built-in wardrobes, but it is extremely rare to fit purchased simple furniture there.

    Yes, there is an alternative - to make everything to order, but this way out of the situation is completely unattractive, because you will have to pay double the cost.

Cons of self-assembly are relative. The only thing that can be attributed to this category is that such furniture cannot be rearranged, but the owners of built-in wardrobes are unlikely to set themselves this task, because they will stand in a perfectly matched place. The best option would be a coupe.

Materials for built-in structures

Their choice is the first stage of preparation.

The range of potential materials for these cabinets is no different from those commonly used to make any other piece of furniture.

  1. Wood is a traditional material. It is environmentally friendly, beautiful, prestigious, and also easy to handle. But a built-in wardrobe is rarely made of it with one's own hand. The reason for the unpopularity will be humidity, which is much higher in niches.

    It is its differences when opening the cabinet that are the main threat to wood, which is used for cabinet furniture. If the owners chose wood, then the material must be impeccable: there must be no defects (knots, curl or even cracks) in it. Impregnation with a water-polymer emulsion or even hot drying oil is required.

  2. Particleboard is the most popular raw material, and such boards are made from pressed shavings using formaldehyde resins as a binder. Chipboard is the most suitable material, which is the constant favorite of the ideal firms that produce this type of furniture.

    The disadvantage for self-production is very heavy fine processing, and therefore chipboard or JSP is suitable only for creating conventional structures.

  3. Fiberboard is also a pressed board type, which is made from steamed wood fibers. Its use depends on the type of material - semi-solid fiberboard is used for the manufacture of back walls and boxes of cabinet products, superhard and solid varieties are already used for the manufacture of furniture items. How to make a built-in wardrobe with your own hands? For such structures with low density, not the best material even for the bottom of the boxes. The reason is the same - humidity.

  4. MDF (Fine Particle Fraction) is a better candidate because these boards are more environmentally friendly, moisture resistant and dense, and therefore they are made from wood dust that is squeezed under high temperatures. The result of heating will ensure the excellent quality and ideal safety of MDF - the release of a natural resin - lignin, which reliably binds the particles.

There are other materials. The first contender will be plywood, which is often used to create built-in wardrobes, which are needed for closets. For such Cinderella designs, furniture shields are often chosen.

Drywall in such a list will be a black sheep, because because of which the low degree of strength and fragility, the material cannot be used as a supporting structure. It needs a serious metal frame.

Finding a place and optimal dimensions

Built-in wardrobes are comfortable, roomy, but at the same time takes up a small area. You can find a place for it:

  • In a niche - this option is the most convenient for using an empty recess.
  • In the corner - such an arrangement will make it possible to expand the space inside the cabinet, and also apply a not very functional area of ​​the room.

    The advantage of such a solution will be the ability to cover from mirrors, which gives a chance to visually increase the area of ​​a small room.

  • Between the walls - narrow or wide, at the end of the corridor. There are very original options - for example, the rational use of empty space near the window.

If you have already found a place for a cabinet, then the first cabinet required is the selection of a suitable size.

  1. Height - in this case, a simple answer will ask itself, and for maximum use of a niche or wall, only one furniture will be ideal, that is, under the ceiling.

  2. Depth - the standard size of a cabinet that has a hanger bar - 0.5-0. 55 meters. If you plan to manufacture a compartment structure, keep in mind that the sliding doors will "eat up" about 0. 1 meter, and therefore 0.

    6-0 will be optimal here. 65 meters. When the pieces of furniture are planned to be made not very deep (about 0.3 meters), then you should definitely take into account that the walls will need to be fixed to the walls due to instability.

  3. Width - it defines the length of the wall or niche intended for built-in wardrobes.

After determining the dimensions, it will proceed to such a critical stage before the production of the project (measurements).

Measurements, drafting and design

Understanding how to measure is important. Not all niches or walls where the cabinet will be built in are of the correct size. For this reason, measurements are taken as follows:

  • First, measure the height and width of the back wall, while doing this in the lower, upper and middle parts, the verticals should be measured from the left and right edges, in the middle ..

    .

  • Step back from the back wall at a distance equal to the depth of the future cabinet, and measure the "front line" in three places.

Consider the thickness of the material, the curvature of the walls, and also their blockages horizontally or vertically. The lower value should be taken as a basis. In the opposite case, the built-in wardrobe is not able to "squeeze" into its intended place.

But only a few have large gaps, and therefore careful calculation is necessary. It is required to check the verticality of each of the surfaces.

Details

Required tools and materials

Chipboard is the most popular material for self-creation of built-in cabinets, it is inexpensive, but very reliable. The thickness of such a material for the frame of the built-in cabinet with your own hands is 1.6 cm minimum, and for the doors 2.

5 cm. You will also need fiberboard for the bottom of the boxes, for the back of the structure, if you plan to do it. You also need:

  • Electric jigsaw.
  • Screwdriver.
  • Grinder.

  • Awl for marking holes for fasteners.
  • Plumb line and level.
  • Pipe cutter (i.e. a hacksaw for metal).

  • Drills - simple and reliable.
  • Sandpaper.
  • Hammer.
  • Marker.
  • PVC edge (for internal elements 0.

    1 cm, for front elements 0.2 cm), if the work will be entrusted to the masters.

  • Phillips screwdriver and hex wrench.
  • Tape measure and pencil.
  • Stationery knife.

  • Rotary hammer or drill.

The individual list will include fasteners and fittings. This includes:

  • Shkanty.
  • Eccentrics.
  • Metal corners.

  • Self-tapping screws.
  • Shelf holders.
  • Guides for shelves (profile and timber).
  • Confirmates.
  • Nails (small, for fiberboard).

  • Dowel-nails.
  • Anchor bolts.
  • Screws for handles.
  • Tubes for hangers.
  • Ties.

  • Extendable rods.
  • Trousers.

Before buying a furniture fixture, you should calculate it, but buy with a margin. All accessories (front), functional only including that required. But on it, if it is an important component of the design, you cannot save money, and therefore it is better to prefer high-quality materials.

Blank and preparatory stage

First, make cut cards. They should be laid out on sheets of material, the sides that need to be trimmed will be indicated. At this point, calculate the length of the flange. The first mistake is that everything is extremely expensive, and therefore it should be understood that hiring helpers is an important measure. Self-sawing takes an extremely long time, and guarantees that the result of such work during assembly will only be pleasing.

More advantages of contacting craftsmen:

  • They buy materials at wholesale prices, and home craftsmen need to pay 1/5 of the cost more.
  • All cuts will be edged immediately, and this is an additional protection of the material from moisture.
  • Sawing parts on a machine is synonymous with speed and quality of parts.

If you have the skills for such work, then the material will be sawed with an electric jigsaw, and after the ends of the cuts are prepared for edging - they are leveled with a grinder, and then processed with sandpaper. At this stage in the manufacture of a built-in wardrobe in the house, they do not deal with fittings.

This part of the work is carried out after installation, and the reason for this may be discrepancies with the drawings.

Fastening the frame

These cabinets differ from simple furniture in that they may not have a perfect frame. Its role will be played by the ceiling, floor and walls of the niche where they will be located. For this reason, the frame here is called the bezel, which is designed to fix the compartment rails.

  1. How to make a built-in wardrobe with your own hands Arm yourself with a marker, level and tape measure - lines are marked on the wall for a false frame.

  2. After that, cut and attach the guides - drill holes for the dowels with a punch, and then fix the profile.
  3. If you want a vertical partition, mount the guides for it. Install the shelves and partition to be attached.

Also fix the bezel, fix the doors last.

Installation of doors

Sliding systems differ in the material of the guides and the principle of sliding.

Aluminum or even steel is used to create rails. First of all, take into account what material was chosen for the door frame, but more often they prefer aluminum profiles. There are two types of structures - bottom support and top-hung. In the second, the rollers are located on top, and in the first they move along the lower rails, and the upper part will only be a support.

The work is carried out as follows:

  1. At the first stage, check the horizontality of the upper and lower parts.

    If required, they are aligned.

  2. Calculating the length of the profiles, they need to be cut. Attach the top of the rail first, and the simplest fixing methods are a wall plug and anchor bolts.
  3. For the exact location of the lower part, a plumb line is used, because any distortions invariably lead to rapid wear of the fittings.
  4. The rollers are fixed on the sash from below, and they should be inserted into the upper, and then into the lower guide - first, hang the far element, and then the near one.

  5. The last step is to check the stroke, and then to mount and adjust the stoppers.

As you can see, everything is not so difficult.

( 1 grade, average 5 of 5 )

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