How to make a chicken coop for 10 chickens with your own hands according to a drawing

How to make a chicken coop for 10 chickens with your own hands according to a drawing How to make a chicken coop for 10 chickens with your own hands according to the drawing

Ten chickens who live in a small poultry house can perfectly provide a family of 3 with fresh eggs all year round. How to make a chicken coop according to the scheme and a photo for 10 chickens will be discussed further.

What exactly should be a chicken coop will depend on its variety. For example, a summer chicken coop does not need to use materials for insulation and can be mobile, that is, it does not have a foundation and has the ability to move around the site in search of an ideal location depending on weather conditions and the location of the Sun.

Making a chicken coop

But the option for winter provides for the arrangement of the base, good insulation, additional type of lighting, forced ventilation, and also warming up in extreme cold.

Base and frame


As a rule, bases are used for poultry houses , which can be:

  • Tape.
  • Columnar.
  • For a very compact structure, which is a house for 10 females, the preferred option would be a columnar base, which has several advantages when building a conventional hen house.
  • Much less waste required.
  • Laying is not associated with a long hardening period of the concrete mix.

  • It is easier to build.
  • The structure will provide ventilation of the floor from the outside, which will increase the service life of the timber cladding.

To erect such a foundation, you need:

  • How to make a chicken coop for 10 chickens with your own hands according to a drawing Using pegs and a cord, outline the contours of the coop to be built.
  • Remove the topsoil 20 cm deep.
  • In each of the 4 corners, dig holes 70 cm deep and 50 cm wide.

  • Put gravel in the hole with a layer of 10 cm.
  • On gravel with a cement mortar, erect small columns of bricks at a height of 25 cm above the ground. Each columnar row should contain a pair of bricks, which are located perpendicular to those lying in the last layer.
  • Let the brick dry over the next week.
  • Replenish the removed soil layer between the pillars of bricks with gravel, which will play the role of excellent drainage.

Now a little about the floor.

Walls and floor

Laying the floor

Sheathing made of bars, which plays a role the base of the floor, sheathed from below and from above with boards, between which material for insulation (or rather, mineral wool) is laid. This type of floor (taking into account the fact that it will necessarily be covered with a bedding up to 10 cm high from sawdust or straw) will remain warm even with a columnar base when the floor strapping rises 1/4 meter above the ground.

Wall Construction

They can be built with wood material and bricks.For a miniature chicken coop, bricks are rarely used (due to the large bulkiness of the building for such a small number of birds, the cost and complexity of brick construction).

The dimensions of a chicken coop for 10 hens are such that the walls of the house are built of wooden bars, for which they do the following:

  1. Install load-bearing wooden frame beams with a section of 7 cm.
  2. The frame needs to be sheathed with OSB , Chipboard plates or clapboard, or other lumber on both sides.
  3. There should be window and door openings in the walls.
  4. Between the lining, a material for insulation is laid.
  5. Carefully seal the cracks in the casing.

  6. One of the walls needs to be equipped with a wooden crate, on which you can attach the nests of chickens (they should be placed in a special annex in the form of a box, which will be taken out of the wall, but making one whole with it).

Now let's talk about the roof.

Roof and ceiling

Roofing device

The main condition for the roof in the chicken coop is the absence of cracks, which makes it possible for precipitation to enter the room, and also provokes the appearance of drafts. Most often, gable and pitched types of roofing materials are used. A pitched roof is the simplest option.

To build it, you need:

  • Strengthen the ceiling beams, which are a bar with a cross section of 5 cm.
  • Sheathe everything from the inside with moisture-resistant plywood.
  • Fill the space between the ceiling joists with thermal insulation material.
  • Sheathe everything from above with roofing material.

Interestingly, the popular "night blindness" refers to the ability of such birds to see exclusively at dusk.

In good light, hens demonstrate incredible visual acuity that even the most keen-sighted falcon can envy them.


The roof lined inside by means of moisture-resistant plywood is a ceiling in the chicken coop. In regions with the coldest winters, you can additionally sheathe the ceiling with foam sheets.



As a rule, to maintain a comfortable henhouse in the winter season a temperature of at least +14 degrees will have enough own bird heat. But this will be possible only if the premises are insulated with high quality.

Typically, the insulation process is carried out using materials for thermal insulation:

  • How to make a chicken coop for 10 chickens with your own hands according to a drawing Ecowool.
  • Mineral wool.
  • Styrofoam.

The material for insulation is placed in the wall frame and the roof, and then sheathed on both sides by means of OSB boards, boards or plywood. In regions where there are strong and cold winters, window insulation is practiced by means of a double or even triple layer of glass.

Windows and doors

As a rule, large doors are made in the hen house for poultry farmers and small ones that go out to the open-air cage side - for birds. In certain cases, they are even combined, making a small door at the bottom, the size of which is 35 * 35 cm. But there are certain inconveniences. Since the door for chickens must go into the aviary, the owner needs to get to the door through the area to get into the chicken coop. It is generally accepted that for ideal lighting of the chicken coop, the window area should be up to 1/3 of the floor area with a minimum of 1/10.


A drawing of a chicken coop for 10 chickens with dimensions provides for the arrangement of fresh air, since chickens are extremely sensitive to drafts. For this reason, constant ventilation of the chicken coop without creating harmful drafts is extremely important. As a rule, in miniature chicken coops, this problem is solved when walking birds, when chickens walk outside, by opening the door and window at the same time. The chicken coop is ventilated radically and quickly, but in winter this method of ventilation is fraught with the rapid escape of heat from the room. For these reasons, small poultry houses are often equipped with simple ventilation, which consists of an exhaust pipe, which is located at the top of the room, and an inlet pipe, which is installed opposite, 0.

5 meters from the floor surface. In severe frosts, such pipes must be closed.



To stimulate egg production in autumn and winter in the poultry house, artificial lighting. For a miniature chicken coop with a dozen chickens, a 40-watt incandescent lamp is quite enough, which is located closer to the bird feeding area and as far as possible from perches and nests.

Please note that bird daylight hours should last at least 12 hours, and to ensure maximum egg production, it may increase to 17 hours.

Internal arrangement

In order to be as comfortable as possible for chickens, the room for them must be equipped with:

  • Perches.
  • Feeders for various types of feed and mineral fertilizing.
  • Drinking bowl.
  • Warm bedding.
  • Nests where chickens can lay eggs.

Let's take a closer look at all the components for the internal arrangement.


When setting up resting roosts, several important considerations need to be taken into account:

  1. For each female must be at least 1/4 meter of personal space. And although in winter the birds usually nestle together, it is extremely important to observe such proportions when designing the length of the perches.
  2. The optimum height for perch placement is 1/2 meter from the floor surface, taking into account the height of the insulated bedding on the floor.
  3. Birds that fly poorly require a ladder to help them reach their roosts.

  4. Round perches or bars with a diameter of 4 cm are most suitable for creating perches.
  5. The distance between several perches should be 35 cm, and in relation to the walls they should not be placed closer than 1 / 4 meters.

Roosts are placed in the hen house in different ways. They can be installed in several rows in a single horizontal line, or they can be multi-tiered. The latter are made in the form of a staircase with a large width, which is installed on the floor obliquely with respect to the wall top.

Sometimes perches with multiple tiers are installed in the corner of the bar attachment across the corner. Each new of the "floors", which is located below the shortest and highest, is made by means of longer bars, reinforced with ends in two walls, which forms an angle. There are also portable perches, which are made in the form of tables with pallets, above which 3 bars are fixed in one horizontal line. Such devices for bird rest are very hygienic, because they can be easily washed, and also taken out to aviaries. In small chicken coops for a dozen heads, perches placed along walls with no doors are ideal.

For conveniently located chickens, there is enough space on them.

Please note that with any method of placement, perches do not need to be placed one above the other.


The design of the chicken coop for 10 hens is such that a maximum of 4 nests are required, which can be placed in crates made of wood, wicker baskets and plastic crates for fruits and vegetables, in side-mounted plastic buckets and cat trays. Ideally, the bottom of the nest should help ventilate the bedding that will lie on it. For this purpose, the bottom of wooden boxes with ideal dimensions of 30 * 30 * 40 cm is made of mesh.

Since chickens do not like to lay eggs when direct light from a lamp or window falls into the nests, and generally do not lay in complete darkness, it is required to proceed from this circumstance when choosing a place for nests. They can be attached to a special crate, which will be made in advance when building the walls of the house. In this regard, more convenient special extensions in the form of boxes, which were discussed. They will create the desired darkness and privacy, but they will not be in complete darkness due to the light that comes from the chicken coop.

Drinking bowls / feeders

Drinking bowls and feeders must be located in those places that are accessible to all inhabitants of the house.

In addition to being accessible, they must be protected from females, which can scatter feed around the coop and contaminate it. For this, the feeders need to be equipped with special visors that allow the birds to stick through only their heads, and the files are made automatic (vacuum or nipple design). Feeders should be separate (for dry, wet and mineral supplements).


Insulation mat must be hygienic, and usually it consists of the following eco-materials:

  • Sawdust.
  • Wood shavings.

  • Sena.
  • Straw.
  • Turf.

Litter of the latter material is the most preferred because it can absorb volumes of liquid waste 20 times its weight. The thickness of the litter (depending on the season) will be from 10 to 30 cm.

Most poultry breeders replace it partially or completely every month 2 times. The rest of the people prefer to add a new layer to the litter on top, leaving the old perepil, which is accompanied by a very useful heat release in winter.

Walking yard

Each chicken coop must have adjoining enclosures. This is due to the need to ensure the physical activity of birds, the lack of which can lead to a drop in the wear of eggs, obesity and weakening of the immune system. Even in winter, with the exception of cool weather with a frost less than -10 degrees, chickens should walk around the yard for at least 2 hours.

Usually a special wooden ladder is built from a small door for chickens to the surface of the enclosure. The aviary is fenced from 3 sides, as well as from above, with a metal or even plastic mesh, and then equipped with a door through which a person will have access to put things in order there. Often there is an automatic drinker and a mobile roost for resting chickens in the fresh air. In some cases, the aviary is covered from above with polypropylene, which allows chickens to walk around the yard in snow and rain, it will not interfere with the ingress of light. A small group of about a dozen chickens needs to create a comfortable environment so that you always have fresh food.