Competently and correctly equipped lathing for metal shingles ensures the durability of the roof and its correct operation throughout its entire life cycle.
It is not for nothing that the manufacturing companies of such material so carefully, almost meticulously describe the entire installation process to the smallest detail. Here, every centimeter is really important, so that after there are no mistakes in fixing the sheets, they do not sag under the snow and do not begin to be blown away by the wind.
In this case, it will not be just a wooden crate, because a steel crate is quite suitable for this task, however, there are no less nuances with it. For this reason, it is worthwhile to study in detail such a main issue - how to correctly make a crate for a metal tile, starting from the profile, the material used and the whole set of loads on the roof.
So, if you look at the laid sheet of metal tiles, you will see the following picture. Regardless of the selected brand, the installation of the lathing itself under the metal tiles is usually performed according to the same scheme. At the same time, as we said earlier, the crate itself can be made from wood and metal. In the role of a wooden crate for metal tiles, 5 * 5 cm bars or boards with a size of 3.
2 * 10 cm are suitable, and metal U-shaped laths of a metal type. Both of these materials are good, it's just that some people are more familiar with the pliable type of wood, while other people appreciate the merits of metal-to-metal contact.
Unlike profiled decking or standing seam roofs, it is of fundamental importance for metal shingles that the battens are positioned correctly and that the fastening has been made to it. And how well you get a self-tapping screw straight into a bar or board will be influenced by the competent calculation of the sheets themselves. It should be noted that in the technical parameters for any metal tile, two types of width will always be indicated - useful and general, which is called working.
For this reason, it is important to calculate the number of rows of sheets horizontally in this way - the maximum width must be divided by the working width of the sheet, and then, as a result, round up. So you get the required number of vertical rows and take into account the horizontal type overlap. And the fact that the number of sheets will need to be rounded suggests that there will be some remainder.
It is for this reason that the creation of a project is required even before the installation of metal tiles. It is at this stage that you can competently make adjustments to the width of the slope and minimize waste.
For example, if the warehouse is rectangular, then this can be achieved by placing the sheathing directly behind the wall, but in the case of a hip-type roof, it will be possible to change the angle of inclination. again, this may only be possible at the design stage.
In terms of calculations, it is important to focus on the information that is spelled out in the technical passport for roofing. As a rule, the minimum length of a sheet of metal tiles is 0.7 meters and the maximum is 8 meters.
Various data will help to calculate the number of sheets even more accurately. By the way, some manufacturers of metal shingles offer to cut sheets according to the established parameters of the slopes. Naturally, this helps to save a lot on waste, however, it is necessary to call a measurer.
So, let's go further. Uneven lathing in the case of metal tiles will always lead to inconsistencies in the sheet and their distortion, which ultimately can lead to the problem of weak fastening.
For this reason, carefully consider the laying process of the sheathing itself. So, before starting the installation, it is imperative to check the horizontalness of the ridge and the rafter rectangular part, the pitched plane. For this, it is important to measure the diagonals, which should be perfectly flat. If necessary and possible, level the slopes, and only after that you can proceed to the next stage. To begin with, you need to install a cornice-type board, in specially pre-cut rafter grooves.
If you planned to add filly also, then in this case everything is required to be done at this stage, below the upper rafter plane. Next, install the frontal board and hang the roof overhangs. If your roof is insulated, then at this stage it is also required to additionally install counter-lattice and waterproofing. Counter battens are additional bars that will be attached over the waterproofing directly to the rafters. So, how to make a crate for a metal tile with your own hands?
All wooden elements must be pre-treated with an antiseptic and fire retardant.
If the lathing step on the metal tile was chosen successfully, then during the installation process you will not have any problems at all. The self-tapping screws will fall into the purlins, and not into an empty space, and will not get stuck tightly in the knot. The sizing itself for lathing up to a centimeter will depend on the profile of the metal shingle sheet, and the sheet profile will depend on the manufacturer. For example, the vast majority of firms have such a step of 0.35 meters.
And at the same time, between the second and the first lath there should be 0. 28 meters, and between the remaining 0.35 meters.
The lowest, that is, the initial lath, must be made with a cross section larger than the rest, exactly at the height of the transverse metal wave shingles.The fact is that you will lay such a bar specifically under the step of the metal tile.
For this reason, such a lath is 1-1 higher than the rest. 5 cm, it is laid parallel to the cornice, and the first tiled wave is hooked onto it. We can say that the first crate is the most important element. After all, it is from how flat the lath will lie, so even the first sheet will lie, and the correct installation of the first sheet will always be striking.
Arrange all further bars required in increments that are equal to the shear wave size.
This will depend on which brand of metal roof tiles you prefer. So, for unusual profiles with a transverse wave step of 0. 4 meters, the distance along the axes between the second and the first lath will be 0.33 meters, and after that it will be 0.4 meters.
For shingles with a step of 0.3 meters between the second and the first crate, it is required to leave 0.33 meters, but all further steps will be 0.3 meters each. If, nevertheless, it turns out that this element will lie crookedly with you, most likely you will be able to lay the metal tiles correctly, but only with the application of effort.
If you lay this roof evenly, then the installation will be as simple as a constructor's. The second important point will be the very engagement of the sheet with the first grating, and this will determine the free weight of the roof overhang. For this reason, you should not be too lazy to lay the first lath evenly - take the necessary tools and a building level for this. And if it needs to be changed, then the first crate needs to be made of the same height as all the others.
To put it simply, the height of the board of the transverse type of lathing must be selected in such a way that the cut sheet of metal tiles cannot bend under load.
And only a double crate is laid on the ridge so that it is convenient to attach the ridge parts. Boards in such a place should be located at a distance of 0.5 cm from each other. You also need to calculate in advance where the elements of the pass-through type will be located on your roof. These are chimneys and ventilation pipes, attic windows and so on.
So. You should have solid or reinforced lathing around chimneys, attic windows and valleys. And if you plan to mount gable overhangs, then for this length you need to make boards of a horizontal type of crate.
At their ends, install a reinforcing bar from the cornice to the ridge. Attach the end board and connecting beams along it, and make overhang filing along them.
Attach this board at the level of the top roofing ridge. The future laying of metal tiles has already been carried out according to the scheme proposed by a certain manufacturer. Try not to bend the sheets anywhere or press them too hard. It is easier to attach modern metal shingles of a modular type to the crate than sheets of a solid type. The point is that small elements can always be moved to align the step.
Now you know how to make a crate for metal roofing. After all the sheets of metal tiles are laid, you will have a single covering, in which each sheet will be connected to the rest of the bulges of its own profile. It is pleasant to look at such a roof, because any irregularities and distortions will always be noticeable to the eyes. This will contain the answer to the question of why some metal tile roofs lose their appearance in the first 5 years, upset with leaks and other problems, while others look like new, even in a harsh climate. Indeed, the whole secret lies in the crate, and this suggests that you can lay this roofing correctly even with your own hands.
The main thing is to make a stable and even base on which these fragile sheets will be fixed as securely as possible.
( 3 marks, average 2.33 out of 5 )
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