As from the curved rafters on the circular make an even timber. In fact, many were probably surprised by the title of the article, since you can get a base on a jointer or using a milling cutter, but still it is not for nothing that they say that laziness is the greatest engine of progress.
We suggest that you try to make the base directly on the circular, especially since the length of the timber will be approximately 0.3 meters. It is also worth familiarizing yourself with the photo of the source material and what happened in the end.
So, how to make an even timber? To begin with, we suggest cutting the rafters into blanks of the required length.
Before you start cutting the bars, be sure to check the 90 degree angle. It is recommended that you do this constantly, over and over again, when you start work, and in general it is worth keeping a square on hand at all times. Also look at the small picture to make it clearer which side to cut the workpiece from.
After drying, the wood cannot be perfectly even, and usually everything changes in shape and becomes like a crescent, namely, on one side two edges are bent outward (we are talking about side "A"), and on the other hand, the middle will bend outward (side "B").
When you make the first cut on the circular, you will definitely need to press the workpiece with the first side to the clamp, and in this case the workpiece will not "float" and the reverse side "B" will pass in the form of a straight line along the circular disc saws. As a result, you get a perfectly straight line on the second side. If you press the workpiece together with side "B", then on the first side you will most likely get the same crescent, because the workpiece will not be pressed against the clamp by the edges, they will "float".
Also, do not forget that the length of the input clamp blank must be no less than the blank itself, that is, first the blank is mandatory must be pressed against the clamp. And one more very important point - before starting the cut, slide the future beam along the cutting table so that you can make sure that it does not float on the bottom.
It turns out if you don't have a "helicopter" below, but a very beautiful and neat one " crescent ", then even if there is a short cutting table, the workpiece should be carefully raised and lowered on the table without tipping sideways, and then everything will definitely work out.
As you can see in the photo, the blank of the future timber with the lower edge of the right side adjoins the clamp and with its entire plane lies on the cutting table. A good quality bar can be made from such a blank.
In general, even if the bottom of the workpiece (below the bottom means the segment that fits snugly against the sawing table) is a small "helicopter", then you can fix it with your hands in such a way as to smoothly hold the workpiece along sawing table without any tilting left or right, and then everything will work out.
If, for some reason, the length of the input section of the sawing table is greater than the workpiece, then don't bother, and just throw the crescent moon down.
Next, you should set the length of the workpiece, and measure with such a tool, as a rule, what kind of helicopter you have (you will see the gap between the base and the workpiece), and at least the same amount more will need to set the width the main beam from its original width, and ideally even with a small gap.
That is, for example, you need to get a bar 4 cm wide, at the first cut you should set the width of the bar 5 cm, and the extra 1 cm can be sawed off from the back of the workpiece, and thus you will trim the edges parallel to everything.
As you can see, in our case, the length of the saw blade is not enough to cut the workpiece completely. But there is nothing terrible in this, you just need to break off the sawn off piece, and a small ledge can be manually processed with a plane, which must be at hand.
As a result, you will have 2 bars, and most importantly, only one side, and each bar will have it perfectly flat and can serve as a base.
After such a manipulation, you will have something to dance from!
How to make the timber even? Everything is simple - then it remains to turn it 90 degrees, with the cut side down, press it completely against the table surface and tightly to the clamp (do not forget that the edges of the crescents should be close to the clamp) and run it again along the circular.
If there are no failures and everything is done correctly, then such sides will be equal to 90 degrees, and if they are equal, then congratulations, the most difficult part has already been completed.
Next, you need to set the exact size of the cut (remember, first the run is 5 cm, and now we set it to 4 cm). In this case, press one clean side, which plays the role of a base, to the saw table, and the other base to the clamping table and cut off the excess evenly (the uncut sides should be behind the saw blade and at the top).
We run it again on a circular.
It remains to drive one more side, and that's it, your bars are ready! In addition, you should never forget about safety precautions when working with a circular saw, because it is better to measure 7 times than to cut off your finger at a time.
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