How to make scaffolding with your own hands - photo, video. At the stage of construction, repair work and maintenance of a cottage / private house, sometimes you have to work at height. It is not always convenient to carry out work with the help of an ordinary ladder, and sometimes it is completely impossible.
Do-it-yourself scaffolding will be a way out of this situation.
Metal scaffolding will be many times more reliable and durable, but often such structures made of wood, as it is cheaper.
Anyone can work with wood, and all you need is nails or screws, a saw, a screwdriver, a hammer or screwdriver. As you can see, the set of tools is small and everyone can find them in the house, and if something is not there, it won't take a lot of money to buy the right tool.
Metal is more difficult in this regard. To make metal scaffolding with your own hands, you will need a certain skill, as well as a welding machine and at least a basic concept of how to properly cook the seams. For this reason, in 85% of cases, forests are made of wood.
It is clear that scaffolding (scaffolding) is needed for a short period of time, but production requires the use of high quality wood with a minimum number of knots. Some builders recommend making scaffolding from spruce wood, since, unlike pine, its knots are located singly and almost do not affect the final strength of the board. But almost no one has spruce boards, but there are more than enough pine boards.
You can also make scaffolding from them, but before that you need to check the material very carefully (at least those boards that go to the flooring and racks). To do this, you need to fold two columns (3-4 bricks on top of each other, 2 building blocks, 2 boulders, and more).
When checking boards that are 3 meters long, there should be a distance of 2.5 meters between them. A board is laid on the posts, and then they stand in the middle and jump on it. If the board has weak points, it will crack or even break. If you survived, you can use it.
Now about the thickness. The choice of the thickness of the boards for the scaffolding follows from what the structure will be, the distance between the posts and the expected load. The only thing to note is that boards with a thickness of 4-5 cm are most often used for flooring and racks, and boards with a thickness of 2.5-3 cm are most often used for jibs. Such boards can be used after dismantling the scaffolding in construction work, if it turns out not to damage it during disassembly.
Probably, in 100 years there will be disputes about which is better - nails or screws, but in this particular case, everything is aggravated by the fact that work will be carried out at a height and therefore the structure must be reliable. In this case, nails will be the best option.The fact is that they are made of soft metal and under load they can bend, but not break.
Unlike them, self-tapping screws are made of hardened steel, which is fragile and will simply break under shock or variable loads. This is critical for scaffolds because there are times when they have broken.
But it was about the "black" screws. There are also anodized yellow-green colors, which are not so fragile and can withstand stress.
If you are seriously concerned about reliability, it is best to use nails to make your own scaffolding. But they are not liked due to the fact that at the end of the work it is impossible to disassemble the connection without losses and it is not possible quickly, since the wood will be damaged.
When working independently, do this - collect everything on anodized self-tapping screws.
If the design turns out to be correct and convenient, play it safe by driving a couple of nails into each joint. In order to prevent the wood from being damaged in the future, you can put pruning thin boards under the nails, and on a long span you can use whole boards, but with a small thickness. When disassembling, you will be able to split them and remove the nails easily.
Different types of work will require different types of scaffolding and scaffolding. High load-bearing capacity is not required for working with lightweight materials.
In this case, you can make an attached scaffold or an envelope structure. For finishing gables or just exterior finishing of a one-story low-rise building, it is permissible to use construction goats, and flooring is laid on their crossbars. If nothing can be supported on the walls, trestles with floorboards laid on the crossbars can be used.
For laying brick walls or building blocks, finishing the facade with stone or brick, full-fledged scaffolding is required. Timber scaffolding can be made more rigid by using braces and supports.
As a rule, such structures are not fixed to the walls, but fixed on stops that will support the racks. Let's talk about each species separately.
The structure got its name due to the fact that they are simply leaned against the wall, and not fixed. They are held by the support. The more you load these scaffoldings, the stronger they will stand.
There are two types of construction, which are made in the shape of the letter "L", but they are deployed in different directions.
In the first picture, a reliable and simple scaffold construction. Their only drawback is that they cannot be adjusted in height. It will be convenient to hem the roof overhang, clean or install a drain, in general, all works that do not have a large variation in height. Some were even able to adapt such a scaffold for building a house from a bar.
It will be convenient to lift or roll logs along the edges of the stops.They are quite reliable, as they can withstand a log of 11 meters and three people in addition.
The second picture shows Armenian scaffolding or envelope scaffolding. This design is also reliable and simple, although at first glance you cannot tell. Yet it has been tested by thousands of people who have used them in construction.
These are attractive ones that require a minimum amount of building materials and can be assembled / disassembled / transported in a few minutes. The main thing is the manufacture of triangles, and installation at the desired height will not take much time - raise the triangles, support it with a beam, which then needs to be fixed in the ground.
In order to make triangles, a board with a thickness of 4-5 cm and a width of 10-15 cm is used. The vertical part can be long so that it is convenient to lift the scaffold to the required height. The top crossbar should be 0.
8 to 1 meter long, and the floorboards will be laid on it. They will also be 5 cm thick, and the wider the better, preferably 15 cm.
When making corners, position the joint so that the horizontal board is on top. To increase reliability, use metal corner plates. But if you will install the corner using three jibs nailed on both sides, this is not necessary.
Installation of triangles is done for each meter. If it works, they are nailed to the facade, and if not, all hope is on gravity. The main load in such a structure goes to a thrust board, which is placed at an angle and it rests with one end against the ground, and with the other against the upper part of the triangle.
Stops should be made of a bar or board with a thickness of at least 5 cm, pipes not less than 7.6 cm in diameter or cross-section (for profiled pipes at least 5 * 4 cm).
During the installation of the stop, it should be placed exactly in the corner, hammered into the ground, additionally fixed and driven in wedges. To eliminate the risk of side shift, the installed stops should be fixed with several jibs, which will connect everything into a rigid and strong structure. For jibs, you can use an unedged board, if there is one, the main thing is that the width and thickness parameters are not less than the minimum limit.
If it is necessary to extend the stop boards (to be more than 6 meters in length), an additional emphasis should be made. It will rest against the middle of the base and thereby remove some of the load.
Now about the scaffolding flooring with your own hands. It must be made of a wide board with a thickness of 4-5 cm. In this case, you need to fix them to the triangles at least with screws. This design does not provide for the installation of handrails, and the slightest vibrations under the feet will cause discomfort, so it is highly advisable to take care of fixation.
The described options are good if you do not intend to use heavy materials.
It is not always possible to support the structure on the wall, and then full-fledged scaffolding will be needed. In general, the construction is not complicated, but it also requires a sufficient amount of wood.
For the arrangement, you will need boards with a thickness of 4-5 cm and first we begin to assemble the racks. These will be two thick boards or vertical beams, which are held together by crossbars. The cross members should be from 0.
8 to 1 meter in size. Make them assume that a more or less comfortable deck width starts at 0.65 meters. Still, you will feel more confident on the 0.8 meter wide deck.
In order to give the structure stability on the sides, you can make racks that will taper upwards.
To prevent the scaffolding from collapsing on the wall, cross-members should be made with a release of 25 cm. They will not allow the structure to collapse. Racks are placed at a distance of 150-250 cm from each other. The span depends on the thickness of the boards that you will use to make the flooring so that they do not bend.
Installed racks at the required distance should be fastened with bevels to each other. So they will not allow the structure to fold to one side. The more you make jibs and crossbars, the more reliable the structure will be.
Also, so that self-made scaffolding does not fall, they should be supported with a bar or planks, and one end should be nailed to the posts with nails, and the other should be buried in the ground. The cross beams will prevent the structure from folding to one side, but there is a possibility that the scaffolding will fall forward without securing it.
To avoid this, the beams should be supported with jibs.
If the height of the scaffolding is 3 meters, it is possible not to support, but if the work will be carried out at the level of the second or even the third floor, such fixation is necessary. You should also make a railing if the work will be carried out at a high altitude. For this, it is permissible to use not very thick boards, but the main condition is that they should not have cracks and knots. The handrails will give you confidence when building.
Standard 6 meters are enough to the floor level of the second floor. But such scaffolds are inconvenient in that they have to be disassembled completely if there is a need to move the structure to another wall. You can collect scaffolding from sturdy old planks. Sometimes pipes or poles are used to make stops and braces - everything that can be found on the farm.
There is another simple way to make mobile lightweight scaffolding with your own hands - to make the same goats, on which crossbars are packed with a certain pitch, which will be both stairs and support for the flooring.
Lay planks on the cross members. This option is good because it is ideal for cladding a house with siding. The cladding will occur from the bottom up and you need to change the height all the time, and there is no way to lean or attach the structure to the wall. For this reason, construction goats are the best option.
Sometimes they make one stand on one side vertical and without inclination.
This will make it possible to install them closer to the wall, and then the flooring will be conveniently located for work. This is a great option for painting, caulking and preventive treatment.
When erecting a stone house, or a building made of building blocks, do-it-yourself metal scaffolding is more suitable. They will be able to withstand any load. Their popularity is less than that of wooden structures, as they are more expensive.
The second decisive moment is the dismantling of the building wooden scaffolding, since the boards can then be put into operation, and the metal parts will gather dust in the shed.
But metal scaffolding also has many advantages. When disassembled, they will not take up much space. From time to time, the owners of private houses still need them - to take care of the log house, for example, which means that they will definitely be needed every 2-3 years. In this regard, a metal structure will be more practical than a wooden one, as it is easier to assemble and stronger.
All metal scaffolding has the same shape of vertical layers, which are connected by slopes and crossbeams.
Only the way of fastening between them will differ:
For buildings of a simple form, it is easier to implement pin scaffolding, but for ledges and bypassing bay windows, everything is much more complicated.
Some types of frames have wheels for easy movement on the surface. Flag-type elements are connected by welding pins with a slot into which the flag will be inserted. Holes must be made in the jibs and crossbars. After the elements are put on the pin and fixed with a flag. The sections are extended upward by means of connecting pipes with a smaller diameter, which are welded to the frame post on one side.
It is important to choose the right size of the pipes used so that they do not play.
They should be fixed to the discs using a wedge with a special shape. The scaffolding will be connected and dismantled quickly, mobile and can even be used for work on complex facades.
All you have to do is choose one of the types, and the type of work that you are going to carry out will help determine. When making metal scaffolding with your own hands, pin headers are most often used. They are the easiest to implement, but not good only for rectangular facades, and to bypass complex shapes, you will have to additionally weld pipes.
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