How to properly cut ceramic tiles without a tile cutter

How to properly cut ceramic tiles without a tile cutter How to cut ceramic tiles without a tile cutter and grinder. When performing all kinds of construction work with your own hands, it is often necessary to cut ceramic tiles at home without a tile cutter. This does not require you to have a professional tool. Disclaimer - now we are not talking about constant work and a large volume, but a small batch or even piece products.

In this case, there is simply no point in buying expensive tools, since you can get out of the situation using available means.

General information. Cut variations

There are the following options:

  1. Cut in a straight line . In this case, it is worth distinguishing where the cut is. If a little less than 2 cm is left to the edge of the cutting line, then this type of cut can be attributed to curly.
  2. Round holes in the plate of different diameters.

  3. Curly cutting.
  4. Elements of mosaic type . If there is a requirement that there are precise geometric shapes, then such a variety refers to figured cutting, and if not, then this, in fact, can be called crushing tiles into pieces. For this, the product should be placed in a bag and with the help of some heavy tool such as a sledgehammer or hammer, the material should be crushed to the desired size. An exception may be tiles that are not made of ceramics.

Now let's move on to considering how to cut a tile.

Methods for Cutting Tiles

The methods below are mainly suitable for cutting tiles at home. But such methods can be used or limited to use them for other types of tiles. There are five ways to cut tiles without a tool such as a tile cutter, as presented here.

Angle grinder ( grinder)

In general, the electric grinder is a universal tool, since previously talented craftsmen could use cut down so much wood with just one ax to build a beautiful, large and warm house, and with one grinder you can cut whatever your heart desires.

With an angle grinder, you can even cut a perfect, even and round hole with a diameter of 4.5 cm!

Please note that this method is suitable for curly, straight views and if have at least minimal skills in handling curved line tools of various configurations.

To cut you need the following:

  • How to properly cut ceramic tiles without a tile cutter Bulgarian - of any type and with any power.
  • Cutting wheel ( diamond or stone).
  • Goggles or protective helmet ( must be required).

  • It is recommended to buy a fully enclosed suit for protection and gloves .
  • Do not give up on the respirator .
  • Clamp - sometimes a vise or clamp is required in addition to it.

Now it is necessary to make markings on the tile in advance, it is desirable to be able to scratch the lines with any sharp tool. In the most extreme case, you can draw lines using a regular construction marker.

During the work, a lot of dust will form, and the marked lines of the marker can simply be erased.

Small straight-type cuts around the edge of the tile can be made by placing it on a flat surface, floor or table. To begin with, you need to cut the surface by a few millimeters, and at the same time there will be enough frictional force and the own mass of the tile so that the product stays in place and does not slip. For other aisles, which will be deeper, you can also step on the edge or ask the assistant to step and hold. When curly cutting ceramic tiles without a tile cutter, it is better to attach the products to the tabletop with a clamp or fix in a vice, but before that, pieces of cardboard or thick cloth should be placed under the sponges.

Good advice! A piece of plywood should be placed under the product so as not to spoil the surface of the floor or table.

The cut should be made using several basic methods:

  1. Marks should be made several times along the outer edge along the entire length. In one pass, a deepening of 0.3 cm is permissible. The operation should be repeated until the desired result is obtained.

  2. With a small segment, which is no more than 2 cm in length, you can do everything at once to the full thickness.
  3. Marking should be done on both sides. On the front, a surface cut with a depression up to 0.3 cm should be carried out, and then you can cut everything in the opposite direction with the same depression until you get a cut. This method makes it possible to avoid accidental damage on the face with a cutting tool.

We recommend using methods for complex cuts - on curved or on edges. The fact is that in this case there will be a lot of dust, a large consumption of the cutting blade, labor costs and a lot of wasted time. But the usual straight line can be cut much easier.

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Electric jigsaw

If you don't have a grinder and a tile cutter at home, then perhaps you can find at your place or ask your neighbor for an electric jigsaw. This tool is underestimated by many people, and in vain!

Note that you can use a hand jigsaw with a stone file in the same way, but in this case the cutting speed will not so big.

You will need:

  • Electric jigsaw with any power.
  • Stone file.
  • Safety glasses for eye safety.

All materials can be sawed in the usual way. Too rounded cuts will be problematic to cut, as the file will get stuck.The tool is perfect for cutting thin wall tiles. An electric jigsaw almost never can handle floor porcelain stoneware. In order to facilitate the work, you can soak the material a little in advance.

We also recommend using this tool when you need to cut curved line segments with large radii of curvature.

Glass cutter / sharpened tools

To cut ceramic tiles at home, use a glass cutter. By the way, in this way you can cut only a tile, and only in a straight line, but there is one more limitation - all parts should not have a width less than 2 cm.

You will need:

  • How to properly cut ceramic tiles without a tile cutter Glass cutter - instead of it you can use any tools that have a sharp cutting edge. It is desirable that the cutting tools are made of hard materials, namely pobedit, diamond and others.

    As an example, he will give ordinary and spear-shaped drills, household knives, and so on.

  • Metal strip or metal ruler. As a last resort, if there is no metal product, use straight, oblong objects made of any other material, but in this case you will need to be extremely careful to apply the cut line, as there is a possibility of cutting the ruler and the scratch in this case will go to the side, right along the front side of the ceramic.

To make the cut even, clear, without any chips and sideways, scratch carefully. It will be enough to scratch the glossy top layer.

Good advice! Pay attention to the beginning and end of the scratch during application. Most often, at the very beginning and end, the scratch does not seem deep enough, and this is due to low pressure and human psychology. At the very beginning we are only trying on and for this reason the pressure is weakened, but at the very end we usually accelerate and therefore there is a great risk of "smearing". This can lead to the fact that in such places the fault will go to the side.

Because of this, when applying marks with a knife, several passes should be made to get a deeper scratch.

Scratching will depend on how sharp and hard the tool is used. If it is hard enough and sharpened (glass cutters with sharp rollers, victorious sharpened spear drill, etc.), then even one pass with good effort is enough. If the tool is made of soft metal or dull (for example, household knives), then you will need to make several passes. Ultimately, the beard must begin to deepen below the glossy layer.

There are several methods for splitting:

  1. A sharp, even corner. To do this, grasp the tile with both hands from opposite sides of the scratch. The blow should be made sharp, at a distance of about 5 to 10 cm about the corner from the back.Before that, it is worth aiming as accurately as possible so that the blow falls exactly at the place of the fault. Believe me, there can be any angle, but the main thing is that it is hard and sharp (a wooden block, a metal corner).

    For convenience, it is desirable that it rise about 10 cm above the surface, since there is a high probability of hitting the surface with your hand when hitting, and then the blow will go to the side and the tile will break, but not at the place of the scratch.

  2. Along a solid bar. For this method, the tile is laid on a hard and long rod on the back side, and then leveled at the place of the scratch. After that, press it on both sides with your hands. The rod can be any - even, with a diameter of 0.

    8 to 1.5 cm (round pencil, drill, etc.). It is desirable that the length be at least 65% of the total length of the scrap. It is possible to break out parts, not necessarily the entire length of the tile.

  3. Between clamps. The method is perfect for completely breaking off tiles, and for breaking out large individual parts. The approaches may be different, but the essence remains the same. You should also fix the product at the break point between the two clamps. It can be thick plywood or a couple of slabs.

    You can also make a small machine with your own hands, and for this, fasten two sheets of plywood at one end with a self-tapping screw, place the tile inside, and then forcefully push the "flaps" apart. The main thing is to create sharp and even edges, and the installation of the material was exactly on the scratch line. After the installation is completed, you should additionally clamp the structure by means of its own weight and push it sharply onto the protruding edge.

We recommend using the last method of cutting ceramic tiles without a tile cutter only for wall-type tiles, not for all types of floor tiles, but it will be extremely difficult to break porcelain stoneware in this way.

Round holes

Depending on the hole diameter, attachments and tools should be selected.

For making holes in a tile, various devices are most suitable that have a rotating tip (screwdriver, drill, hand brace, puncher, etc.).

Please note that the power of the tool generally plays the last role for cutting the slab, and the speed of rotation is much more important. It is desirable that you have the ability to manually set the rotation speed. Putting more than 500 rpm per minute will only harm the instrument.

Although holes can be made faster, the torch will become very hot and fail. In addition, high speed only increases the chance of chipping at the edge of the hole.

Bits for small diameters (1.5 to 3 cm):

  • Special drills with sharp one-sided sharpening ..

    . The best option, but quite expensive. It is enough for a long time, and you can drill almost any tiled hard surface.

  • Drills for lance-type tiles . These drills are considered cheap and are recognized as the best option for one-off jobs.

    When used on standard tiles, they will be enough to make a few dozen holes.

  • Drills with tipped carbide (for stone, concrete, for a hammer drill, etc.) . Not the best option, but if necessary, then a couple of holes can be made with them.

Bits with a large diameter:

  • Bits with different materials (tungsten carbide, corundum, diamond).

    They are classified as professional grade instruments and are very expensive.

  • " Ballerina". A spear drill is located in the middle, and the second cutter is adjusted using a movable rod, which is attached to the central leg with a bolt. This is inexpensive and you can cut multiple holes with different diameters.

If we talk about a diameter of more than 5 cm, holes can be made using an electric grinder.

All work is advised to be carried out with glasses and a protective mask.

Figured breaking

Sometimes it is necessary to make curved lines on the tile, and sometimes even semicircular ones. It is much more difficult to make breaks when they start off the edge. In this case, first you have to make holes, and then start breaking out from it. For curly breaking, it is recommended by any possible method to apply a deep scratch along the entire border for breaking out.

This will help reduce the number of possible layers.

How to properly cut ceramic tiles without a tile cutter There is even a special tool for this, namely the tongs on wheels, but for a one-time job, buying such a device is extremely inappropriate therefore, ordinary pliers are allowed. The technology of curly breaking is quite simple - the pliers / forceps need to be squeezed strongly, the material will begin to crumble, and then it should be squeezed and sharply turned to the side (only a little further than the fault line, not less than 0.5 cm). This will start to break off small pieces.

When trying to break off large pieces, you can simply ruin all the results, and part of the tile can break off behind the scratch line.

Straight, long, narrow pieces across the entire plate should be broken off with a sharp turn of the pliers to the side, and at the same time clamp them in advance along the line of risks. In addition, for the entire length of the tile, you can simply not break off, and you will have to repeat the procedure on the remaining area, and then gently break the remaining sharp protrusions again. The easiest way is to scratch and hit the corner, as this method helps to quickly and easily prepare most of the elements. Sawing is also used if you need to cut off a piece, but not along the entire length.

In this case, several sides should be cut, and one should be broken off along a solid rod or using clamps.