To do the repair of old wooden windows with your own hands - such a task periodically arises before home craftsmen.
Even now, in the age of the popularity of plastic products, wooden frames do not lose their relevance.
Many are only now beginning to realize the benefits of the familiar wood, which has recently been vigorously changed to plastic. Wood is not just a natural ecological material, it has quite obvious qualities.
Wood products are quite resistant to external influences, have good heat and sound insulation properties.
Wooden windows help to maintain optimal humidity levels inside the building. Manufacturers quickly realized that a kind of "plastic boom" was subsiding somewhat, and began to actively advertise products from modified wood.
Nothing bad can be said about their quality, on the contrary - it pleases. Unlike the price, which is a little scary. I must say that by putting a lot of effort and effort, you can restore the old wooden window.
It's not that hard, although it takes time. But a practically killed dilapidated window can be turned into an attractive, looking new product.
There are special technologies that allow even completely unusable and rotten windows to turn into quite decent ones, adding a few more decades to their life.
What is required for this?
A plumb line is also necessary, but it is not difficult to make it from a nut and thread.
Materials will also be required:
In this case, water-based deep penetration polymer putties are not required. The fact is that their use significantly enhances the thermal conductivity of wood products.Depending on the design, clear acrylic lacquer and stain may also come in handy.
If it is possible to use a special industrial hair dryer, then a plastic bag and kerosene will be superfluous.
It is better to restore windows in warm and dry weather, with optimal humidity 40 percent (no more than 65). Just in case the weather turns bad, we protect the openings with foil on any temporary frame.
One of the important elements of the window structure are wooden chopiks (special pins) that hold the window together in the corners.
It is with a thorough revision of the dowels that it is best to start restoration work.
We remove the door leaves, carefully pick out the putty, remove the glazing beads. We remove all the fittings, remove the wooden sashes from the outer doors. We carefully take out the nails, remove the steel squares. To work, we must have only a tree.
We place all the doors and frames on a flat surface (we have a shield prepared for this) and carefully align them.
They must have right angles and the same diagonal length.
Carefully align the vents. The presence or absence of cracks in the future depends on this process.
Carefully driving nails into the shield, near the sash itself, we fix the aligned part of the structure. Checking the location of the dowels.
If they are located evenly, in the middle of the corner, carefully drill them out with a large drill.
If a displaced dowel is found, proceed as follows:
After holes are drilled in all window elements, we disassemble the frames into separate components. We remove the old paint from them.
Old, unusable paint can be removed in two different ways : chemical and thermal.
For heat treatment, a special building hair dryer is required. This procedure cannot be carried out using a conventional household device.
Do not use a propane torch or blowtorch either. The result can be a low-temperature wood burn, due to which it loses its properties.
The part to be cleaned is placed in the "on the bottom" position and heating of individual small areas begins.
The paint boiling and starting to bubble is carefully cleaned off with a palette knife or a boot knife.
It is better not to use a spatula - it slips or, conversely, crashes into a tree.
To remove paint chemically, kerosene and a large sealed plastic bag are used. Each wooden element is wrapped with unnecessary material.
We put in the bag as many wooden parts as will fit, leaving the neck free for tying.
The wrapped pieces of wood are poured with kerosene (0.5 liters), and the bag is tightly tied for at least 24 hours.
Then the pieces of wood are taken out separately, and the paint is removed from each one in turn. Do not take all the material out of the bag at the same time, otherwise the kerosene will evaporate and you will not have time to complete your task - the paint will dry up again. Do not pick out the smallest particles of paint from the recesses if subsequent painting is planned.
If varnishing and staining is supposed, then you have to work hard.
This is the next stage of work on the overhaul of the window . This procedure is carried out in order to prevent the development of mold and rot germs, as well as to restore the structure of the old material as much as possible.
The details are brushed several times, each successive after the final absorption of the previous one. The surface should not stick.
Such processing is sufficient for several years.
But there is one more method, which can be called capital - there is enough processing tens of years . This will require a special device: this is a piece of pipe made of solid steel, welded on one side. It is fixed in a 30-degree tilt position. This procedure is carried out strictly in the open air, away from buildings.
In case the drying oil flares up, you need to have a mat made of fiberglass or burlap, which is used to close the pipe neck in an emergency. You can continue when the fire goes out.
How is the overhaul process going on?
Three quarters of the pipe is filled with linseed oil, and they begin to heat it from below with hot air from an electric stove or a building hair dryer. With a sudden increase in the smell of drying oil, we stop heating for a while, then continue again. Impregnation can be started when the heated mass disappears and bubbles do not appear.
For impregnation, a steel hook is used, with which the part is embedded in the mass for several minutes, then it is taken out and dried. Details cannot be taken even with hands in mittens. Also, do not bend over the neck of the pipe and look into it. The process is being watched sideways, from the side. Parts processed in this way can serve for many decades.
Wedges and dowels
Before starting work, you need to take care of new wedges and dowels. The pins can be made from suitable straight grained wood with a core drill (straight across the grain). For each individual element, a wedge of the required size is prepared from a suitable wood species, for example, mountain ash or oak.
The leveling frame is assembled on the slipway-shield, at first without fixing it with anything. As before, they are equal diagonally, fixed from the sides with nails.
The mounting holes are drilled. Then the frame is disassembled, the grooves of the joints and the mustache are coated with liquid nails, checking with diagonals, collected in a slipway, and if necessary equalized. After the glue has set, it is fixed with pins.
All this must be done on the same day, while the glue joint is still sufficiently flexible. The dowels are finally fixed with wedges, driving them from both sides along the fibers of the dowel.
The pins greased with liquid nails are hammered into the prepared holes with mallets so that the fibers of this element are perpendicular to the fibers of the wood of the main product. This is an important condition for their reliable connection.
Fitting the sash and frame
Keeping the outer edge square does not mean square corners of the various mounting openings. The fact is that the tree has the ability to dry out unevenly. Therefore, the next important and necessary step is to align the quarters inside.
First, we adjust one sash: we put it on the priest and check it with a quarter plumb bob.
If there is a perpendicular one, then it is taken as a base. If there is no such one, we find the most "left" corner with the help of a racer and a square. Then you need to beat off new lines of an even opening from it and from other corners along the reishin with a pencil. With a zenzubel and a chisel (in the corners), we remove all unnecessary.
We inspect and check the outer doors in the same way. Then the flaps are placed side by side and aligned in width and height. It is not necessary to touch the quarters under the glass, since their slight distortion will not do much harm. After all the above measures, the sashes will be made smaller than the opening of the frame itself.
Small strips of plywood are placed in the quarter of the frame to fit with liquid nails.
When the glue sets, we process everything accurately and accurately with a chisel, not forgetting to make recesses for the fittings. We nail down small carnations at a distance of 15 to 25 cm, plunging their caps deep into the depths of the nail. We return the ebb to the place with the help of liquid and ordinary nails.
Grinding and putty
For small irregularities and grooves, it is quite acceptable to prepare the putty on your own. For this, sawdust and liquid nails are mixed in a ratio of three to one.
Prepare the composition in small portions, which are quickly used. This mixture sets in a few minutes. Grind the frame with sandpaper.
For painting wooden windows , high-quality oil paint is most often used. The best option in this case is to buy a thick-grated composition and mix it with nut or linseed oil, following the example of artists.
Ready-made oil paints on sale are based on mineral or synthetic thinners that are inferior to traditional ones in terms of their durability.
Pentaphthalic and glyphthalic enamels are also not very suitable for finishing: a new painting will be required in a few years. And multiple layers of paint do not look very aesthetically pleasing.
When choosing thicker paint, it is advisable to make sure that it contains mineral and not synthetic pigment.
If you rub a pinch of white between your fingers, there should be no slippery feeling.
White should not stick to your fingers. Almost all of the synthetic pigment flies off when shaken off. Knead the paint in a flat wide-necked dish. Dry paint is poured there, oil is added portionwise to the hole in it, and they begin to knead. The oil is added gradually, bringing the mixture to the required consistency.
With the help of wood stain, the finish is made to look like natural wood. This composition emphasizes the texture of the material and changes its tone. A simple business pine after such treatment with a properly selected stain becomes like bog oak, mahogany or pandana.
Before final finishing, you can try first on unnecessary chocks, so as not to be mistaken with the degree of dilution and with the tone.
An additional plus from finishing with these means is the deep penetration of the composition.
Even after sanding, no additional painting is required. In addition, the stain significantly improves the wood's resistance to UV rays and decay. The finishing touch of this finish will be varnishing with acrylic varnish, tinted or transparent. Then fittings are installed and glass is inserted.
The well-known technique of restoring wooden windows using modern materials allows you to create wonderful products with your own hands.
The shabby window, which was worked on by a neat and diligent craftsman, while retaining the wonderful qualities of the wood, looks no worse than the popular plastic.
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