How to sheathe a pediment with siding: detailed step-by-step instructions

Gable cladding is the final stage of the exterior decoration of the house. By this time, the master should no longer have questions about working with the main finishing material: siding. The installation of vinyl and metal has a lot in common. But still, working with each of them has its own nuances.

There are some peculiarities in the cladding of the pediment, that part of the house, which is located between the roof slopes.

It (pediment) can be either small in height or be a component of a full-fledged second floor. The latter also applies to buildings with a residential attic. Provence-style houses look the most comfortable. Therefore, most homeowners choose this particular way of decorating their home.

How to make Provence style gable cladding?

The main features of the Provence architectural style are light colors, simplicity and clarity of lines, a friendly family atmosphere.

For the decoration of such a house, they choose materials that are affordable and of impeccable quality. Siding fits well with these criteria. It is durable, has all the necessary characteristics to provide adequate protection for the walls of the building.

Vinyl siding is the most successful choice for Provence style finishing. Unlike metal, it is able to bring comfort, simplicity and discreetness to the appearance of the building, necessary for this direction of design.

At the same time, the vinyl siding house looks modern and well maintained.

The upper part of the building, the pediment, is visible from afar. It is she who creates the first impression of the house and its owners. Therefore, this stage of finishing work must be performed as carefully as possible, guided by detailed step-by-step instructions based on the experience and recommendations of specialists.

Materials required for cladding the pediment with siding

An important point in finishing works of any kind is the choice of the main material and components.

There is one immutable rule, the implementation of which saves you a lot of troubles during installation. It says: all trim elements must be purchased from one manufacturer.

In this case, the buyer gets several advantages:

• all details will be adjusted to the millimeter;
• it becomes possible to choose the most successful color gamut;
• in case of a shortage of material, it can be purchased without fear of significant differences in color shades.

There is another important point to be aware of when choosing a material. The cladding structure must include exactly those elements that are recommended by the manufacturer.

Replacement with equivalent parts, but of a different type, will certainly bring dissonance to the external appearance of the building and increase the labor intensity and complexity of installation.

So, it is not recommended to combine vinyl and metal siding or additional elements of these materials in the gable cladding. The point is not only in the appearance that does not correspond to the rules of aesthetics, but also in the different coefficient of thermal expansion of these products. A finish that uses both metal and vinyl at the same time will not be durable. There is a high risk of cracks in vinyl siding, which will change its geometric shape under the influence of expansion-contraction of metal parts.

Complementary elements for cladding the pediment

The use of correctly selected components in the installation will allow you to obtain a high-quality cladding structure that is not afraid of strong winds, frosts, or high humidity. For sheathing the gable with siding, you will need to buy several types of additional elements. Products intended for finishing window openings are needed if there are windows on the gable.

Product name	Function and features
Starting strip	Installed first, it is a long narrow web to which the lower edge of the first panel is attached.
Outflow	Drains water from the basement of the building.
Connecting strip or H-profile	Detail that allows you to close the joints between horizontally laid siding panels and soffits, provides an aesthetically pleasing appearance of the joints.
Narrow window strip (otherwise called "window profile")	It is intended for finishing window openings, the width of which is less than 14 cm. It has a rather complex profile, including elements of a slope and a casing.
Wide window strip	Designed for finishing window and door openings with width of slopes more than 14 cm.
J-Trim bar (in the language of specialists - "jake")	Installed along the perimeter of window and door openings, any vertical and horizontal cuts, abutments along an inclined line of the wall and roof, for filing and fixing soffits.
Stuffing box	Used for covering window openings located on the same plane with the walls of the building.
Outside corner Inner corner	Designed to cover and hold the ends of siding panels on the inner and outer corners of the house. When trimming gables, they are used if the area to be finished has a complex relief: protrusions and niches relative to the plane of the walls.
Finishing strip	Is an element with which the installation of the cladding is completed constructions. Installed over the last, top panel of the skin. When finishing the pediment, it is needed if the roof slope has a complex shape, including horizontal sections.
F-profile	These thin strips are necessary for joining between different elements of decoration and masking gaps.
Sofits	Panels designed for filing the inner part of the roof overhang.
Wind board	Provides protection of the attic space from wind blowing.

When choosing a set of additional elements necessary for sheathing the pediment, a novice master will certainly encounter one feature: a variety of names.

This can lead to feelings of confusion and misunderstanding. In fact, everything is simple. Manufacturers, wanting to distinguish their products from the total mass of similar products, give it their own name.

For example, the starting bar is also called the starting bar. J-Trim - "J-Profile" or "J-Profile".

Finishing strip - "fitting profile". The same features are present in the names of other additional elements.

In order to correctly navigate this variety, you must first of all pay attention to the product profile. For elements of the same purpose, it is always the same, with the exception of small nuances introduced by the manufacturer to emphasize the features of their products.

This point is extremely important to consider.

The purchase of components from different brands will inevitably cause a lot of problems during installation, regardless of the complexity of the relief of the gables and the presence or absence of window openings.

Correct calculation of the amount of materials for cladding the gable with siding

When determining the amount of siding for cladding the walls of a house, it is enough to perform two types of measurements: find the total length and height of all walls. Then the area of ​​the building is calculated and the result is divided by the area of ​​one unit of finishing material. Thus, an indicator of the required number of panels is obtained.

In the case of pediments, everything is much more complicated, since these elements of a building can have a complex architectural form.

But in most cases there are two types:

• have the shape of a regular triangle;
• have a trapezoidal shape.

Regardless of the type of construction, before starting measurements and calculations, you need to find out what is the area of ​​one siding panels. To do this, its length is multiplied by its width.

Calculation example.

On average, vinyl sidein panels are 3.

05 m long and 24 cm wide. Different manufacturers offer lamellas 17.9 cm wide, 20.5 cm wide, 23.2 cm wide, 25 cm wide.

6 cm. We arm ourselves with a calculator, and we multiply 3.05 mx 0.24 m. We get 0.

732 m2.This is the area of ​​one siding panel.

Next, you need to take a series of measurements. To do this, you need a tape measure, paper and a pencil. It is most convenient to take measurements using modern laser tape measures.

These instruments are also referred to as "laser rangefinders". The principle of working with them is simple: you need to set a tape measure at the starting point of measurement and direct the beam to the point to which you want to measure. Good reviews about inexpensive but high-quality devices LEICA Disto D2 and Mettro СONDTROL 60.

Quantity determination Siding Panels for Triangular Gables

1. Measure the base (bottom horizontal line) of the triangular gable. Get the index "A".

2. Measure the height: project the apex of the triangle onto the base and measure the distance between these two points. Get the "B" index.
3. Find the area of ​​the pediment using the following formula: 1/2 A x B.
4. Divide the area of ​​the pediment by the area of ​​one siding panel. A figure is obtained indicating the number of panels required for cladding.

   All calculations are performed in m2.

Calculation example.

The base of the pediment is 3.45 m. The height is 3.

8 m. The area of ​​one panel is 0.732 m2.

1. We calculate the area of ​​the triangular pediment: 1/2 x 3.45 mx 3.

   8 m = 6.55 m2.

2. We calculate the required number of panels: 6.55 m2: 0.732 m2 = 8.

   948. Rounding up, we get 89.5. This is the number of siding panels required to cover a gable 3.45 m long and 3.

   8 m high.

Determining the number of siding panels for trapezoidal gables

1. Measure the length of the gable base (b).
2. Measure the length of the upper horizontal roof line (a).
3. Measure the height of the pediment: project the break point of the roof onto the base and calculate the distance between these two points (h).
4. Calculate the area of ​​the trapezoid using the formula: 1/2 x (a + b) x h.

5. Divide the resulting figure by the area of ​​one panel.

Calculation example:

• b = 6 m;
• a = 3 m;
• h = 1.8 m.

1/2 x (6 + 3) x 1.8 = 8.

1 m2

8, 1 m2: 0.732 m2 = 11.06

We find out that 110.6 siding panels are needed to cover the trapezoidal pediment of these dimensions.

Determination of the number of siding panels for gables of complex architectural forms

In order to find out the consumption of material for finishing complex gables with windows, protrusions and height differences, it is necessary to perform a series of measurements for each structural element.

1. First of all, find out the area of ​​the window openings. To do this, measure their length and height.
2. Then these indicators are multiplied.
3. Record the resulting value.
4. Do the same with all windows on the gable.

5. The final stage is the summation of the obtained indicators.This will be the total area of ​​all windows.

To perform the next stage of calculations, you will need to draw an impromptu drawing of the pediment on a piece of paper. Next, you need to break its complex shape into several simple ones: triangles and rectangles. After that, they begin to measure each individual figure.

All the indicators obtained are recorded in the drawing.

The next step is to calculate the area of ​​the pediment. Since it consists of several simple shapes, first of all determine the area of ​​each of them. After that, the obtained values ​​are summed up. The required indicator is obtained: the area of ​​the pediment of a complex shape.

Next, it is necessary to subtract from this figure the total area of ​​window openings obtained at the first stage of work. As a result, the area to be siding will be found. Then it will be easy to calculate the number of panels required to complete this task. The process is similar to that described in the sections on triangular and trapezoidal pediments.

Determination of the amount of materials for covering cornice and gable overhangs

The overhang is the part of the roof that extends beyond the plane of the walls of the house.

The horizontal part of these protrusions is called the "cornice overhang". Vertical - "pediment". Both of them are trimmed with soffits. The ends are closed with J-bars and (or) droppers. To determine the required amount of materials, several tasks must be performed sequentially:

• measure the length of the eaves overhangs;
• measure the width of the eaves overhangs (the part that protrudes beyond the pediment);
• all the indicators obtained as a result of measurements must be converted into running meters;
• then you need to find the total area of ​​the eaves overhangs, alternately calculating the area of ​​each protrusion;
• a similar procedure is performed for pediment overhangs.

As a result, the total area of ​​the roof overhangs to be covered with soffits will be found. Next, they find out the area of ​​one soffit panel and the length of the J-profile in the set of accessories for the selected brand of finishing material. By analogy with the previous calculations, they find the required amount of material for finishing work.

Rules and peculiarities of connections of additional elements for gable trimming

Components are necessary to ensure the ease of installation of siding panels and to give the finishing of the house a finished look. If the pediment has a complex architectural shape, for which the standard assortment of additional elements is not enough for cladding, the missing parts can be ordered.

All manufacturers of these materials offer the service of manufacturing panels and components according to customer's sketches and sizes.

Any of the additional siding elements is equipped with a perforated strip located on one side of the product. Otherwise, this element is called "nail bar". It is designed to fix the fittings to the bearing surface.

The so-called "locks" are used to connect the trim elements to each other: curly protrusions on the side of the product that is opposite the perforated strip.

Locks of different elements have different shapes. This is necessary in order to ensure the best possible connection of the trim panels.

So, when installing siding, they achieve a characteristic click, signaling that the correct connection of two parts has occurred ...

When facing window and door openings, a different method of joining components is used: protrusions of one are inserted into the corresponding recesses of the other. When performing these works, there is no need for the most tight joining.

Correct installation of siding involves the implementation of several simple but mandatory rules.

1. When attaching panels and accessories to the supporting surface, try to screw the self-tapping screws into the middle of the holes in the nail strip.
2. Do not pull the panels with self-tapping screws so that they are in maximum contact with the edge of the crate.

   According to the installation rules, a small gap of at least 1 mm, but not more than 1.5 mm, must remain between the screw head and the nail strip. This requirement is due to the need to provide the material with "free movement" under the influence of expansion and compression forces.

3. All products are fixed to the walls only through the holes in the nail strip.
4. When installing adjacent elements, it is necessary to trim the nail strip of one of them so that a gap of at least 5 mm is formed.

5. Galvanized fasteners are used for the installation of vinyl and metal siding.

Tools required for cladding the front with siding

Since the gable is the top of the building, the work will have to be done at a height Therefore, first of all, you need to take care of the availability of durable stairs. At least two are needed, as this will save you from constantly moving one staircase from one corner of the house to another. The best option is the device of walkways, along which it will be possible to move while performing work.

It is important to choose the most convenient siding trimming tool.

There are three options for accomplishing this task:

• using a hacksaw for metal with a fine tooth;

  

  A hacksaw for metal with fine teeth

• with metal shears;

  

  Metal shears

  

  Siding is cut with scissors

• using a jigsaw equipped with a fine-toothed metal file.

  

  Open the siding with a jigsaw

Prices for popular models of jigsaws

Jigsaw

All these tools allow you to get an even cut without chipping. Each master chooses for himself the way of working with the material that is most convenient and accessible for him.

You will need a simple pencil and a metal square to mark the panels and accessories. A tape measure is required to take measurements.

One of the most useful tools is the construction bubble level. Experts recommend choosing a professional model, since with its help you can most accurately determine the horizontal and vertical.

The following tools can be prepared from the auxiliary tools:

• plumb line;
• pliers ;
• hammer ;
• rubber or wooden mallet;
• marker.

A screwdriver is the most convenient for screwing in galvanized screws on rechargeable batteries. It is not "tied" to the power grid, so there will be no need for various kinds of carriers and wires.

The best choice is a screwdriver with two replaceable batteries. The presence of an additional one will avoid interruptions in work necessary to recharge a dead battery.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

Screwdrivers

How to properly mount the frame for siding

Siding of any brand and of any material (asbestos cement, metal or vinyl) cannot be installed directly on the walls. First you need to prepare the frame, which is otherwise called "crate". This can be done using two types of materials: wooden bars or a metal profile, which is designed for mounting drywall.

It cannot be said that one of these materials is better than the other. Both are suitable for creating a strong and durable frame. But the tree still has one drawback: it requires careful drying. Otherwise, the crate will certainly lead and deformation of the facing structure is possible. The risk of this problem is especially high when working with flexible vinyl siding.

The section of wooden bars should resemble the section of a metal profile. The following sizes are suitable: 30/40 mm, 35/45 mm, 40/40 mm, 45/45 mm, 40/50 mm, 40/60 mm, etc. Most often, the PP 60/27 metal profile is chosen for the frame device. He, like wooden bars, will play the role of bearing racks.

In addition to the main elements of this structure, you will need additional ones: suspensions.

These are special thin perforated plates that are used to align the frame struts in one plane. Thus, ideally flat vertical walls are obtained.

The hangers are attached to the bearing surface through a hole located in the middle of the plate. Then the perforated strips are folded back and the frame stand is inserted between them. Fastening is performed using small self-tapping screws SMM 3.

5 / 51. Other fasteners suitable for this purpose can be used. To construct a frame made of wooden blocks, self-tapping screws are needed for wood with a length of 1.5-2.5 cm.

Rules for installing the frame for siding

1. Suspensions are installed in order calculated that the step between them does not exceed 60 cm.
2. The upper and lower suspensions should be no more than 15 cm from the edge of the wall, and no closer than 5 cm.
3. If wooden blocks are used , their preparation is necessary: ​​high-quality drying and coating with an ogebi-protective solution.
4. The step between the bearing posts of the frame must correspond to the width of the insulation to be laid. Optimum - 50-60 cm.

5. For brick surfaces, preliminary drilling of holes for hangers is required. First, they put the appropriate marks on the wall, after which the task is performed using a drill and a drill with a victorious soldering.

Preparatory work

Beginning of work on the installation of the sheathing - preparation of the pediment and overhangs of the roof.

Step 1. First of all, remove the old finishing material: wind boards, ebbs, cladding.

To accomplish this task, use any convenient tools: pry bar, hammer, pliers.

Step 2. The roofing material is cut flush with the gable overhangs. Select tools that match the roofing material. If it is a metal tile, use a grinder with a metal circle.

If it is slate, you will need a hammer, a grinder with a stone disc, and wire cutters. If, after trimming, there are uneven protrusions or chips, do not worry: later they will be covered with finishing elements: droppers.

Step 3. Do whatever is necessary to level the wall and overhangs: remove or cut down all those protruding parts that can be removed without catastrophic consequences for the building.

Edge of the pediment plane

Step 1.

Installing the lower guide

A laser is most convenient for determining the plane of the skin. This device is installed at the lowest point of one of the corners of the pediment and the beam is directed to the opposite side.It is important to install the device so that the new plane is at least 4 cm away from the load-bearing wall. Including the device, marks are made at the points to which the laser points.

In order to build a new plane using bars and improvised tools, proceed as follows:

• choose such a number of even bars so that their total length corresponds to the length of the pediment base;
• take two small bars of the same section, but at least 3 cm thick, and drill through holes in them;

  

  Hold the drill perpendicular to the bar

• screw into each bar with a self-tapping screw so that the tip of the fastener protrudes from the back of the bar by 5- 7 mm;
• each bar is alternately applied to the corner point of the pediment in the area of ​​abutment of the wall and ebb (the lower protrusion hanging over the load-bearing walls);
• mark with a marker the place of contact between the tip of the screw and the wall;
• holes are drilled at these points (if the wall is brick, a drill with a diamond or pobedite tip is needed);

  

  When drilling a wall, the drill follows hold straight

• insert plastic dowels into the holes (if necessary, knocking out with a hammer);
• apply the bars to the wall and attract them with self-tapping screws;

  

  Fastening the bar to the wall

• take a self-tapping screw 1-1.

  5 cm long and screw it halfway into the middle of one of the bars;

• tie it to self-tapping screw a strong long thread;
• screw the self-tapping screw so that its head is in contact with the bar;
• pull the thread towards the second bar;
• screw a self-tapping screw with a length of 1- 1.5 cm;
• pull the thread and wind it on the self-tapping screw;
• screw the self-tapping screw into the bar;
• focusing on the thread, in the same way fix intermediate bars of the same section (external the plane of the bars should be set exactly along the thread);
• remove the thread and attach to the installed bars long even bars selected at the preparatory stage of work;
• at the junction of long bars, sew on a short b ruska, thereby ensuring the strength of the lower guide.

Step 2. Determining the location of the top rail

Regardless of whether the pediment is triangular or trapezoidal, the top rail is installed by cutting its ends at an angle of 45 °. To do this, use a miter saw, jigsaw or hacksaw.

Next, you need to find the exact place to install the upper guide. To complete this task, you will need a plumb line on a string of such length that it is sufficient for the load to come into contact with the lower guide. If the height of the pediment is significant, you need to find an assistant. This person will be at the bottom rail and determine if the plumb line has come into contact with it.

Sequence of actions:

• from the point of intersection of the ridge beam with the wall of the pediment, measure a distance equal to the width of the indent from the wall of the lower guide (from the wall to the outer plane of the bars);
• put a mark with a marker;
• apply a thread to this point, on which a plumb line is fixed;
• ask the assistant if the load has come into contact with the outer plane of the lower guide;
• gradually moving thread, find the point at which the plumb line will show that the vertical has been found;
• make the appropriate marks with a marker.

If the pediment has a trapezoidal shape, this work is done twice, at each intersection of the roof beams with the wall.

Step 3. Installation of the upper rail

Screw the self-tapping screws into the bars with the ends sawn off at an angle of 45 ° so that their tips protrude from the back side of the bar by 5-7 mm ...

At the points found with the help of a plumb line, holes are drilled and plastic dowels are installed in them. Then the upper guide is fixed. If necessary, the ridge beam is hemmed with a wooden die.

Step 4. Installation of side rails

Along the lines of the roof slope, it is necessary to install side rails made of the same material as those already fixed.

To do this, you need to file or cut the ends of the bars. Since the angle of the roof slope can be any, it is impossible to give recommendations regarding the angle of the saw cut of the bars. This parameter is determined empirically by applying wooden dies to the upper and lower guide.

Next, perform the same actions as in the previous stages: drill holes in the bars and screw screws into them. Then the side guides are attached to the roof overhangs and to the upper and lower guides.

The finished lathing contour should be in the same vertical plane.

Installation of the frame for siding

Step 1. Marking for suspensions

Based on the above rules for mounting the lathing, mark the pediment under installation of suspensions. To complete this work, you will need a plumb line, tape measure and a marker.

1. From the corner point at which the lower guide and the overhang of the roof intersect, the distance selected depending on the width of the insulation retreats.

   If it is not planned to insulate the pediment, then the optimal step is 40-60 cm.

2. Place a mark on the lower guide with a marker.
3. A plumb line is applied to the adjacent side guide and the place of contact of the load with the mark on the lower guide is found.
4. Project the thread line onto the wall and mark along it with a marker so that the upper and lower ones are no closer than 5 cm to the wooden (metal) contour of the lathing. The step between the intermediate points is 50-60 cm.

5. From the mark on the lower guide, 40-60 cm are measured towards the opposite corner of the house and a similar sequence of work is performed: using a plumb line, they find a vertical and mark along this line with a marker.
6. Thus, the entire area of ​​the pediment is marked.

If there are window or door openings , the marking is performed taking into account that the suspensions should be located along the perimeter of these gable elements, but taking into account the desired slope angle of the slopes. This will make it possible to make high-quality facing of openings.

Step 2.

Preparing holes for mounting hangers

Prices for popular models of hammer drills

Hammer drills

At this stage of the siding frame device, it is necessary to drill holes with which they will be attached to pediment suspensions. The choice of materials and tools depends on what the pediment is built from. If it is a brick, you will need a drill (optimally - with the punch mode), a drill with a victorious soldering, a dowel and nails. If it is a tree, a foam block or a gas block, a screwdriver and self-tapping screws are enough.

Step 3.

Mounting hangers

The hangers are fastened using a screwdriver and self-tapping screws 3.5-4.5 cm long with a flat wide head. Each metal strip is applied to the wall so that it (strip) is horizontal. There is an oblong hole in the central part of the suspension.

Its middle is aligned with the mark on the pediment. Screw in a self-tapping screw and pull the metal bar to the wall.

Step 4. Installation of the supporting racks of the frame

1. Focusing on the vertical line of the hangers, measure the distance between the bottom and side guides.
2. Saw off a bar (or cut a metal profile) of the required length.

3. Cut off (saw off) the upper end of the rack at the desired angle.
4. In order to facilitate the further implementation of this work, a saw cut template is prepared. Take a flat wooden block, apply it to the side guide and draw a line of the slope. Cut off (cut off) the excess. This template can be used to correct the end faces of all subsequent structural studs that will be adjacent to this side guide.

5. At each hanger located along the line of installation of the rack, the side perforated strips are folded.
6. Install the lower end of the bar (metal profile) on the lower guide.
7. This frame post is inserted between the lateral hangers.
8. Using self-tapping screws, attach the upper end of the bar to the side rail.

   

   Fixing profiles to hangers

9. Using self-tapping screws CMM 3.

   5 / 51 for metal profiles or self-tapping screws for wood for wooden blocks, attach the rack to the suspensions.

10. In the same way, vertical posts are installed along the entire line of the pediment.

Step 5.Installation of roof overhang lathing

In order to revet the inner plane of the roof overhangs, they must be hemmed along the slope lines with bars 3-4 cm thick. Wooden slats are attached to the inner corner formed by the junction of the overhang to the pediment, and along the outer, opposite corner, overhang line.

Since the soffits are strong for bending and light in weight, a distance of up to 80 cm between the bars is permissible. But overhangs of this width are quite rare. At this stage of work, it is necessary to ensure that the outer ends of the sheathing form a flat line repeating the cut of the roof slope.

Prices for various types of bars

Bar

Sheathing of window and door openings

There are several options for finishing window and door openings. The choice of the best method depends on whether the installation of ebb and slopes is required, and on the characteristics of the components of a particular manufacturer.

But the basic principles for installing trim elements are the same for all types of siding.

The windows on the gables are most often in the same plane with the wall. Therefore, the installation of ebb and flow is not required. The width of the side panel of the window strip is quite sufficient for covering shallow openings. For their facing, you need to consistently perform several stages of work.

Step 1. Taking measurements

Use a tape measure to take measurements. The resulting indicators are recorded on a piece of paper. You need to know the following parameters:

• height of the inner line of the opening;
• the height of the outer line of the opening;
• depth of the opening (width of the slope);
• angle bevel of the opening.

Step 2.

Blank of finishing elements

In accordance with the obtained dimensions, the near-window strip and J-profile are cut. The most difficult task is to correctly cut out all the protrusions, which, when joining two near-window strips, form the inner and outer corners of the slopes.

The profile of these additional elements (near-window strips) is rather complex, so you will have to repeatedly cut one or another part of the ends after fitting. It is recommended to saw off a window strip slightly larger than the height of the opening from a solid canvas. After obtaining a high-quality cut of the end, the panel can be shortened.

Step 3. Installation of the J-profile

The J-profile is fixed along the perimeter of the window so that the nail strips are on the plane of the slopes. For fixing, self-tapping screws are used, which are screwed into the bars (metal profile) of the crate.

Step 4. Installation of the window strip

The window strip is installed so that its shaped protrusion covers the outer corner of the slope.

The flat part of the panel is inserted into the J-profile. The nail strips of the window profile are attached to the crate.The ends of the siding panels will be inserted into the recesses of these additional elements, which will cover all the attachment points.

Siding gable cladding

Procedure the installation of siding depends on several factors. Firstly, you need to consider whether the complex of works will be carried out independently, or with the assistance of assistants.

Secondly, such a moment is important as the presence of a lower slope (low tide) at the pediment. If it is not there, the facing work on sheathing the pediment is a continuation of the wall decoration with siding. In this case, the installation of the starting strip is not necessary.

If the pediment has a lower slope and the work is carried out alone, it is recommended to do a little preparation before starting the installation of the cladding structure. This will reduce the laboriousness of fastening the long and flexible panels of the starting strip, since there will be no one to hold its other end.

If the situation is such, screws are screwed halfway into the lower outer end of the lower frame guide so that they are at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other. They will need to lay the starting bar. After that, it can be fixed without much difficulty.

Siding prices

Siding

Sequence of works on siding installation

Step 1. Installing the finishing strip

Along the line of the roof slope, the finishing strip is attached to the side guides.

Both lines of these profiles will intersect at the top corner point of the triangular pediment. Therefore, the ends of each plank must be cut at an angle so that a beautiful, even joint is obtained.

If the pediment is trapezoidal, the finishing planks are installed only along the side rails, leaving the top free.

Step 2. Preparation for fixing the starting plate

If the bottom guide of the frame is not perfectly straight, pull the thread before installing the starter profile.

It will be a guide for setting the starting bar. The thread should be pulled strictly horizontally. This is achieved with the help of a building level.

Step 3. Attaching the starting strip

The starting strip is laid on a thread and one end of this additional element is wound into the adjacent finishing strip.

There should be a distance of 2-3 mm between these trim parts. This will provide a damping gap necessary to compensate for the "travel" of the strips when they are heated or cooled.

Next, proceed to fixing the starting profile through the holes in its nail strip. Self-tapping screws are used, which are screwed so that the bar freely "walks" horizontally within the perforation hole. But it was firmly fixed.

The next starting profile is set at a distance of 5-6 mm from the first. Thus, they move along the line of the pediment. The last plank is cut with metal scissors, slightly bent towards you and the end is brought into the finishing plank.

Step 2. Installing the first siding panel

There is a U-bend at the bottom of each siding panel , with the help of which two lamellas are connected.

There is a notch on the starter bar into which you need to insert the siding panel. Then it is slightly pulled up and through the holes in the nail strip, fastened with self-tapping screws to the frame racks.

In this work, it is important to observe one rule: never pull up the siding so that it is in contact with the underlying panel as closely as possible. A gap of 2-3 mm must be left between them.

The ends of the siding panels should be inserted into the side finishing strips.

The panels are connected horizontally either with an overlap or using an H-shaped profile.

Step 3. Further set of siding

Since for each line of panels you will have to make two cuts of the ends at a certain angle, it is recommended to make templates for each roof slope. They (templates) can be made from panel cuts, one edge of which must be cut at an angle so that it matches the slope line of one of the roof slopes.

Then the templates are laid on the panel, draw a line along them, and saw off the unnecessary part of the siding end along it.

Having reached the top point of the triangular pediment, it is permissible to fix the top panel through the siding, and not through the perforations.

If the pediment is trapezoidal, a finishing strip is attached to the top guide of the frame. After that, the installation of the last siding panel is carried out.Pruning may be required.

Installation of spotlights

Modern spotlights systems consist of 4 elements:

• soffit panel with perforation;
• soffit panel without perforation;
• J-profile (some manufacturers call this product a "finishing strip" );
• connector strip.

Step 1. Mounting the J-profile

The J-profile is necessary for closing the ends and holding the soffits. This additional element is fixed in the same way as siding panels: through perforations. J-planks must be located on both sides of the soffits, therefore they are attached to the inner corner formed by the roof overhang and the wall of the pediment, and to the outer edge of the roof.

Two J-profiles are connected together by cutting off 2-2.

5 cm of the mounting (perforated) part at one of the strips. After which the bars are inserted into each other. At the corner points of the overhangs, the J-profile is joined end-to-end.

Step 2. Installation of spotlights

Prices for various types of soffits

Soffits for roof

Soffits are flexible and light enough, so their installation is simple.

The panel is slightly bent downward and both ends are inserted into the recesses in the J-planks. Further actions depend on the configuration of the roof overhangs and the relief of the pediment.

If it is triangular in shape, carry out a set of soffits and their fastening in the same way that was used when installing the siding panels. With the correct docking of two spotlights, a characteristic click should be heard. Thanks to the locks, the panels are firmly connected to each other.

But here, too, you need to follow the same rule as when installing siding: leave a 2-3 mm wide gap between the trim elements.

If the pediment is trapezoidal or of a more complex shape, connecting strips are attached at the points of breaks and turns. With their help, the lines of soffits are joined together. The final stage of work is the installation of droppers. They are attached to the outer edge of the roof slopes.

Video - How to sheathe the pediment with siding part 1. Secrets of installing siding

Video - How to sheathe the pediment with siding part 2. Secrets of installing siding

Video - Gable trim