Gable cladding is the final stage of the exterior decoration of the house. By this time, the master should no longer have questions about working with the main finishing material: siding. The installation of vinyl and metal has a lot in common. But still, working with each of them has its own nuances.
How to sheathe the pediment with siding
There are some peculiarities in the cladding of the pediment, that part of the house, which is located between the roof slopes.
It (pediment) can be either small in height or be a component of a full-fledged second floor. The latter also applies to buildings with a residential attic. Provence-style houses look the most comfortable. Therefore, most homeowners choose this particular way of decorating their home.
Siding pediment - a beautiful and practical solution
Decorative finishing of the pediment
The main features of the Provence architectural style are light colors, simplicity and clarity of lines, a friendly family atmosphere.
For the decoration of such a house, they choose materials that are affordable and of impeccable quality. Siding fits well with these criteria. It is durable, has all the necessary characteristics to provide adequate protection for the walls of the building.
Provence style facade
Vinyl siding is the most successful choice for Provence style finishing. Unlike metal, it is able to bring comfort, simplicity and discreetness to the appearance of the building, necessary for this direction of design.
At the same time, the vinyl siding house looks modern and well maintained.
Vinyl Siding Shades
The upper part of the building, the pediment, is visible from afar. It is she who creates the first impression of the house and its owners. Therefore, this stage of finishing work must be performed as carefully as possible, guided by detailed step-by-step instructions based on the experience and recommendations of specialists.
An important point in finishing works of any kind is the choice of the main material and components.
There is one immutable rule, the implementation of which saves you a lot of troubles during installation. It says: all trim elements must be purchased from one manufacturer.
Vinyl siding Docke
Vinyl siding "Alta-Profile"
In this case, the buyer gets several advantages:
There is another important point to be aware of when choosing a material. The cladding structure must include exactly those elements that are recommended by the manufacturer.
Replacement with equivalent parts, but of a different type, will certainly bring dissonance to the external appearance of the building and increase the labor intensity and complexity of installation.
Basic and additional siding elements
So, it is not recommended to combine vinyl and metal siding or additional elements of these materials in the gable cladding. The point is not only in the appearance that does not correspond to the rules of aesthetics, but also in the different coefficient of thermal expansion of these products. A finish that uses both metal and vinyl at the same time will not be durable. There is a high risk of cracks in vinyl siding, which will change its geometric shape under the influence of expansion-contraction of metal parts.
The use of correctly selected components in the installation will allow you to obtain a high-quality cladding structure that is not afraid of strong winds, frosts, or high humidity. For sheathing the gable with siding, you will need to buy several types of additional elements. Products intended for finishing window openings are needed if there are windows on the gable.
|Product name||Function and features|
|Installed first, it is a long narrow web to which the lower edge of the first panel is attached.|
| Drains water from the basement of the building.
Connecting strip or H-profile
|Detail that allows you to close the joints between horizontally laid siding panels and soffits, provides an aesthetically pleasing appearance of the joints.|
Narrow window strip (otherwise called "window profile")
|It is intended for finishing window openings, the width of which is less than 14 cm. It has a rather complex profile, including elements of a slope and a casing.|
Wide window strip
|Designed for finishing window and door openings with width of slopes more than 14 cm.|
J-Trim bar (in the language of specialists - "jake")
| Installed along the perimeter of window and door openings, any vertical and horizontal cuts, abutments along an inclined line of the wall and roof, for filing and fixing soffits.
|Used for covering window openings located on the same plane with the walls of the building.|
|Designed to cover and hold the ends of siding panels on the inner and outer corners of the house. When trimming gables, they are used if the area to be finished has a complex relief: protrusions and niches relative to the plane of the walls.|
| Is an element with which the installation of the cladding is completed constructions. Installed over the last, top panel of the skin.
When finishing the pediment, it is needed if the roof slope has a complex shape, including horizontal sections.
|These thin strips are necessary for joining between different elements of decoration and masking gaps.|
|Panels designed for filing the inner part of the roof overhang.|
|Provides protection of the attic space from wind blowing.|
When choosing a set of additional elements necessary for sheathing the pediment, a novice master will certainly encounter one feature: a variety of names.
This can lead to feelings of confusion and misunderstanding. In fact, everything is simple. Manufacturers, wanting to distinguish their products from the total mass of similar products, give it their own name.
For example, the starting bar is also called the starting bar. J-Trim - "J-Profile" or "J-Profile".
Finishing strip - "fitting profile". The same features are present in the names of other additional elements.
In order to correctly navigate this variety, you must first of all pay attention to the product profile. For elements of the same purpose, it is always the same, with the exception of small nuances introduced by the manufacturer to emphasize the features of their products.
This point is extremely important to consider.
The purchase of components from different brands will inevitably cause a lot of problems during installation, regardless of the complexity of the relief of the gables and the presence or absence of window openings.
When determining the amount of siding for cladding the walls of a house, it is enough to perform two types of measurements: find the total length and height of all walls. Then the area of the building is calculated and the result is divided by the area of one unit of finishing material. Thus, an indicator of the required number of panels is obtained.
In the case of pediments, everything is much more complicated, since these elements of a building can have a complex architectural form.
But in most cases there are two types:
Regardless of the type of construction, before starting measurements and calculations, you need to find out what is the area of one siding panels. To do this, its length is multiplied by its width.
On average, vinyl sidein panels are 3.
05 m long and 24 cm wide. Different manufacturers offer lamellas 17.9 cm wide, 20.5 cm wide, 23.2 cm wide, 25 cm wide.
6 cm. We arm ourselves with a calculator, and we multiply 3.05 mx 0.24 m. We get 0.
732 m2.This is the area of one siding panel.
Next, you need to take a series of measurements. To do this, you need a tape measure, paper and a pencil. It is most convenient to take measurements using modern laser tape measures.
These instruments are also referred to as "laser rangefinders". The principle of working with them is simple: you need to set a tape measure at the starting point of measurement and direct the beam to the point to which you want to measure. Good reviews about inexpensive but high-quality devices LEICA Disto D2 and Mettro СONDTROL 60.
All calculations are performed in m2.
The base of the pediment is 3.45 m. The height is 3.
8 m. The area of one panel is 0.732 m2.
8 m = 6.55 m2.
948. Rounding up, we get 89.5. This is the number of siding panels required to cover a gable 3.45 m long and 3.
8 m high.
Calculation of trapezoidal gable siding
1/2 x (6 + 3) x 1.8 = 8.
8, 1 m2: 0.732 m2 = 11.06
We find out that 110.6 siding panels are needed to cover the trapezoidal pediment of these dimensions.
Calculation of siding along a broken gable
In order to find out the consumption of material for finishing complex gables with windows, protrusions and height differences, it is necessary to perform a series of measurements for each structural element.
To perform the next stage of calculations, you will need to draw an impromptu drawing of the pediment on a piece of paper. Next, you need to break its complex shape into several simple ones: triangles and rectangles. After that, they begin to measure each individual figure.
All the indicators obtained are recorded in the drawing.
The next step is to calculate the area of the pediment. Since it consists of several simple shapes, first of all determine the area of each of them. After that, the obtained values are summed up. The required indicator is obtained: the area of the pediment of a complex shape.
Next, it is necessary to subtract from this figure the total area of window openings obtained at the first stage of work. As a result, the area to be siding will be found. Then it will be easy to calculate the number of panels required to complete this task. The process is similar to that described in the sections on triangular and trapezoidal pediments.
Arrows show overhangs
The overhang is the part of the roof that extends beyond the plane of the walls of the house.
The horizontal part of these protrusions is called the "cornice overhang". Vertical - "pediment". Both of them are trimmed with soffits. The ends are closed with J-bars and (or) droppers. To determine the required amount of materials, several tasks must be performed sequentially:
As a result, the total area of the roof overhangs to be covered with soffits will be found. Next, they find out the area of one soffit panel and the length of the J-profile in the set of accessories for the selected brand of finishing material. By analogy with the previous calculations, they find the required amount of material for finishing work.
Roof trimming option
Components are necessary to ensure the ease of installation of siding panels and to give the finishing of the house a finished look. If the pediment has a complex architectural shape, for which the standard assortment of additional elements is not enough for cladding, the missing parts can be ordered.
All manufacturers of these materials offer the service of manufacturing panels and components according to customer's sketches and sizes.
Any of the additional siding elements is equipped with a perforated strip located on one side of the product. Otherwise, this element is called "nail bar". It is designed to fix the fittings to the bearing surface.
The gap between the screw head and the nail strip
The so-called "locks" are used to connect the trim elements to each other: curly protrusions on the side of the product that is opposite the perforated strip.
Locks of different elements have different shapes. This is necessary in order to ensure the best possible connection of the trim panels.
Siding panel lock
So, when installing siding, they achieve a characteristic click, signaling that the correct connection of two parts has occurred ...
When facing window and door openings, a different method of joining components is used: protrusions of one are inserted into the corresponding recesses of the other. When performing these works, there is no need for the most tight joining.
Installation of siding around openings
Correct installation of siding involves the implementation of several simple but mandatory rules.
According to the installation rules, a small gap of at least 1 mm, but not more than 1.5 mm, must remain between the screw head and the nail strip. This requirement is due to the need to provide the material with "free movement" under the influence of expansion and compression forces.
Rules for attaching siding
Since the gable is the top of the building, the work will have to be done at a height Therefore, first of all, you need to take care of the availability of durable stairs. At least two are needed, as this will save you from constantly moving one staircase from one corner of the house to another. The best option is the device of walkways, along which it will be possible to move while performing work.
Stepladders and scaffolds
It is important to choose the most convenient siding trimming tool.
There are three options for accomplishing this task:
A hacksaw for metal with fine teeth
Siding is cut with scissors
Open the siding with a jigsaw
All these tools allow you to get an even cut without chipping. Each master chooses for himself the way of working with the material that is most convenient and accessible for him.
Angle bar for cutting siding
Electric saw for cutting siding
You will need a simple pencil and a metal square to mark the panels and accessories. A tape measure is required to take measurements.
One of the most useful tools is the construction bubble level. Experts recommend choosing a professional model, since with its help you can most accurately determine the horizontal and vertical.
The following tools can be prepared from the auxiliary tools:
The correct choice of tools, materials and equipment makes the installation of vinyl siding much easier
A screwdriver is the most convenient for screwing in galvanized screws on rechargeable batteries. It is not "tied" to the power grid, so there will be no need for various kinds of carriers and wires.
The best choice is a screwdriver with two replaceable batteries. The presence of an additional one will avoid interruptions in work necessary to recharge a dead battery.
Siding of any brand and of any material (asbestos cement, metal or vinyl) cannot be installed directly on the walls. First you need to prepare the frame, which is otherwise called "crate". This can be done using two types of materials: wooden bars or a metal profile, which is designed for mounting drywall.
It cannot be said that one of these materials is better than the other. Both are suitable for creating a strong and durable frame. But the tree still has one drawback: it requires careful drying. Otherwise, the crate will certainly lead and deformation of the facing structure is possible. The risk of this problem is especially high when working with flexible vinyl siding.
Beam for assembling the lathing
The section of wooden bars should resemble the section of a metal profile. The following sizes are suitable: 30/40 mm, 35/45 mm, 40/40 mm, 45/45 mm, 40/50 mm, 40/60 mm, etc. Most often, the PP 60/27 metal profile is chosen for the frame device. He, like wooden bars, will play the role of bearing racks.
In addition to the main elements of this structure, you will need additional ones: suspensions.
These are special thin perforated plates that are used to align the frame struts in one plane. Thus, ideally flat vertical walls are obtained.
The hangers are attached to the bearing surface through a hole located in the middle of the plate. Then the perforated strips are folded back and the frame stand is inserted between them. Fastening is performed using small self-tapping screws SMM 3.
5 / 51. Other fasteners suitable for this purpose can be used. To construct a frame made of wooden blocks, self-tapping screws are needed for wood with a length of 1.5-2.5 cm.
Installation diagram of the frame
The location of the crate depending on type of siding
Beginning of work on the installation of the sheathing - preparation of the pediment and overhangs of the roof.
Step 1. First of all, remove the old finishing material: wind boards, ebbs, cladding.
To accomplish this task, use any convenient tools: pry bar, hammer, pliers.
The windboard must be removed
Step 2. The roofing material is cut flush with the gable overhangs. Select tools that match the roofing material. If it is a metal tile, use a grinder with a metal circle.
If it is slate, you will need a hammer, a grinder with a stone disc, and wire cutters. If, after trimming, there are uneven protrusions or chips, do not worry: later they will be covered with finishing elements: droppers.
Cut the slate
Step 3. Do whatever is necessary to level the wall and overhangs: remove or cut down all those protruding parts that can be removed without catastrophic consequences for the building.
Do all the preparatory work before installing the siding
Pediment before finishing - photo
Pediment lathing device
Installing the lower guide
A laser is most convenient for determining the plane of the skin. This device is installed at the lowest point of one of the corners of the pediment and the beam is directed to the opposite side.It is important to install the device so that the new plane is at least 4 cm away from the load-bearing wall. Including the device, marks are made at the points to which the laser points.
Sawing a bar for lathing
In order to build a new plane using bars and improvised tools, proceed as follows:
Hold the drill perpendicular to the bar
When drilling a wall, the drill follows hold straight
Fastening the bar to the wall
5 cm long and screw it halfway into the middle of one of the bars;
Step 2. Determining the location of the top rail
Regardless of whether the pediment is triangular or trapezoidal, the top rail is installed by cutting its ends at an angle of 45 °. To do this, use a miter saw, jigsaw or hacksaw.
Sawing wood at an angle
Next, you need to find the exact place to install the upper guide. To complete this task, you will need a plumb line on a string of such length that it is sufficient for the load to come into contact with the lower guide. If the height of the pediment is significant, you need to find an assistant. This person will be at the bottom rail and determine if the plumb line has come into contact with it.
Sequence of actions:
If the pediment has a trapezoidal shape, this work is done twice, at each intersection of the roof beams with the wall.
Step 3. Installation of the upper rail
Screw the self-tapping screws into the bars with the ends sawn off at an angle of 45 ° so that their tips protrude from the back side of the bar by 5-7 mm ...
At the points found with the help of a plumb line, holes are drilled and plastic dowels are installed in them. Then the upper guide is fixed. If necessary, the ridge beam is hemmed with a wooden die.
Step 4. Installation of side rails
Along the lines of the roof slope, it is necessary to install side rails made of the same material as those already fixed.
To do this, you need to file or cut the ends of the bars. Since the angle of the roof slope can be any, it is impossible to give recommendations regarding the angle of the saw cut of the bars. This parameter is determined empirically by applying wooden dies to the upper and lower guide.
Next, perform the same actions as in the previous stages: drill holes in the bars and screw screws into them. Then the side guides are attached to the roof overhangs and to the upper and lower guides.
The finished lathing contour should be in the same vertical plane.
Step 1. Marking for suspensions
Based on the above rules for mounting the lathing, mark the pediment under installation of suspensions. To complete this work, you will need a plumb line, tape measure and a marker.
If it is not planned to insulate the pediment, then the optimal step is 40-60 cm.
If there are window or door openings , the marking is performed taking into account that the suspensions should be located along the perimeter of these gable elements, but taking into account the desired slope angle of the slopes. This will make it possible to make high-quality facing of openings.
Preparing holes for mounting hangers
When choosing a tool, consider the amount of work
At this stage of the siding frame device, it is necessary to drill holes with which they will be attached to pediment suspensions. The choice of materials and tools depends on what the pediment is built from. If it is a brick, you will need a drill (optimally - with the punch mode), a drill with a victorious soldering, a dowel and nails. If it is a tree, a foam block or a gas block, a screwdriver and self-tapping screws are enough.
The hangers are fastened using a screwdriver and self-tapping screws 3.5-4.5 cm long with a flat wide head. Each metal strip is applied to the wall so that it (strip) is horizontal. There is an oblong hole in the central part of the suspension.
Its middle is aligned with the mark on the pediment. Screw in a self-tapping screw and pull the metal bar to the wall.
We attach suspensions
Direct suspension ready for mounting PP
Step 4. Installation of the supporting racks of the frame
Fixing profiles to hangers
5 / 51 for metal profiles or self-tapping screws for wood for wooden blocks, attach the rack to the suspensions.
Lathing for siding
Step 5.Installation of roof overhang lathing
In order to revet the inner plane of the roof overhangs, they must be hemmed along the slope lines with bars 3-4 cm thick. Wooden slats are attached to the inner corner formed by the junction of the overhang to the pediment, and along the outer, opposite corner, overhang line.
Since the soffits are strong for bending and light in weight, a distance of up to 80 cm between the bars is permissible. But overhangs of this width are quite rare. At this stage of work, it is necessary to ensure that the outer ends of the sheathing form a flat line repeating the cut of the roof slope.
Frame for installation of spotlights with additional support
There are several options for finishing window and door openings. The choice of the best method depends on whether the installation of ebb and slopes is required, and on the characteristics of the components of a particular manufacturer.
But the basic principles for installing trim elements are the same for all types of siding.
The windows on the gables are most often in the same plane with the wall. Therefore, the installation of ebb and flow is not required. The width of the side panel of the window strip is quite sufficient for covering shallow openings. For their facing, you need to consistently perform several stages of work.
Waterproofing of window and door openings
Framing openings with near-window profiles
Step 1. Taking measurements
Use a tape measure to take measurements. The resulting indicators are recorded on a piece of paper. You need to know the following parameters:
Blank of finishing elements
In accordance with the obtained dimensions, the near-window strip and J-profile are cut. The most difficult task is to correctly cut out all the protrusions, which, when joining two near-window strips, form the inner and outer corners of the slopes.
The profile of these additional elements (near-window strips) is rather complex, so you will have to repeatedly cut one or another part of the ends after fitting. It is recommended to saw off a window strip slightly larger than the height of the opening from a solid canvas. After obtaining a high-quality cut of the end, the panel can be shortened.
Step 3. Installation of the J-profile
The J-profile is fixed along the perimeter of the window so that the nail strips are on the plane of the slopes. For fixing, self-tapping screws are used, which are screwed into the bars (metal profile) of the crate.
Step 4. Installation of the window strip
The window strip is installed so that its shaped protrusion covers the outer corner of the slope.
The flat part of the panel is inserted into the J-profile. The nail strips of the window profile are attached to the crate.The ends of the siding panels will be inserted into the recesses of these additional elements, which will cover all the attachment points.
Gable window trim
Framing window and door openings with platbands
Framing arched and round windows
Procedure the installation of siding depends on several factors. Firstly, you need to consider whether the complex of works will be carried out independently, or with the assistance of assistants.
Secondly, such a moment is important as the presence of a lower slope (low tide) at the pediment. If it is not there, the facing work on sheathing the pediment is a continuation of the wall decoration with siding. In this case, the installation of the starting strip is not necessary.
If the pediment has a lower slope and the work is carried out alone, it is recommended to do a little preparation before starting the installation of the cladding structure. This will reduce the laboriousness of fastening the long and flexible panels of the starting strip, since there will be no one to hold its other end.
If the situation is such, screws are screwed halfway into the lower outer end of the lower frame guide so that they are at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other. They will need to lay the starting bar. After that, it can be fixed without much difficulty.
Step 1. Installing the finishing strip
Along the line of the roof slope, the finishing strip is attached to the side guides.
Both lines of these profiles will intersect at the top corner point of the triangular pediment. Therefore, the ends of each plank must be cut at an angle so that a beautiful, even joint is obtained.
If the pediment is trapezoidal, the finishing planks are installed only along the side rails, leaving the top free.
Attaching the J-profile to the plier
Attaching the J-profile
Step 2. Preparation for fixing the starting plate
If the bottom guide of the frame is not perfectly straight, pull the thread before installing the starter profile.
It will be a guide for setting the starting bar. The thread should be pulled strictly horizontally. This is achieved with the help of a building level.
Step 3. Attaching the starting strip
The starting strip is laid on a thread and one end of this additional element is wound into the adjacent finishing strip.
There should be a distance of 2-3 mm between these trim parts. This will provide a damping gap necessary to compensate for the "travel" of the strips when they are heated or cooled.
Next, proceed to fixing the starting profile through the holes in its nail strip. Self-tapping screws are used, which are screwed so that the bar freely "walks" horizontally within the perforation hole. But it was firmly fixed.
The next starting profile is set at a distance of 5-6 mm from the first. Thus, they move along the line of the pediment. The last plank is cut with metal scissors, slightly bent towards you and the end is brought into the finishing plank.
The photo shows how to fix the drain bar, H-profile, start strip
Ebb and start bars installed
General view of the gable ready for siding
Step 2. Installing the first siding panel
There is a U-bend at the bottom of each siding panel , with the help of which two lamellas are connected.
There is a notch on the starter bar into which you need to insert the siding panel. Then it is slightly pulled up and through the holes in the nail strip, fastened with self-tapping screws to the frame racks.
In this work, it is important to observe one rule: never pull up the siding so that it is in contact with the underlying panel as closely as possible. A gap of 2-3 mm must be left between them.
The ends of the siding panels should be inserted into the side finishing strips.
The panels are connected horizontally either with an overlap or using an H-shaped profile.
Step 3. Further set of siding
Making a template and installing siding
Since for each line of panels you will have to make two cuts of the ends at a certain angle, it is recommended to make templates for each roof slope. They (templates) can be made from panel cuts, one edge of which must be cut at an angle so that it matches the slope line of one of the roof slopes.
Installing siding panels
Installing siding in tight spaces
Under the window, everything is about the same - the uppermost strip is cut to size and simply snaps onto the lower siding lock
Tighten the bolts in the center of the holes
Install siding under the eaves or soffit
Trimming panels at an angle
Process of finishing the gable
Then the templates are laid on the panel, draw a line along them, and saw off the unnecessary part of the siding end along it.
Having reached the top point of the triangular pediment, it is permissible to fix the top panel through the siding, and not through the perforations.
Installing the top row under the pediment
It remains to fix the triangle
The only time a siding panel can be attached straight through vinyl - the last panel
If the pediment is trapezoidal, a finishing strip is attached to the top guide of the frame. After that, the installation of the last siding panel is carried out.Pruning may be required.
Sheathing the pediment with vertical siding
Modern spotlights systems consist of 4 elements:
Step 1. Mounting the J-profile
The J-profile is necessary for closing the ends and holding the soffits. This additional element is fixed in the same way as siding panels: through perforations. J-planks must be located on both sides of the soffits, therefore they are attached to the inner corner formed by the roof overhang and the wall of the pediment, and to the outer edge of the roof.
Two J-profiles are connected together by cutting off 2-2.
5 cm of the mounting (perforated) part at one of the strips. After which the bars are inserted into each other. At the corner points of the overhangs, the J-profile is joined end-to-end.
Step 2. Installation of spotlights
Roof eaves filing
Soffit fixing options
Soffits for roof
Soffits are flexible and light enough, so their installation is simple.
The panel is slightly bent downward and both ends are inserted into the recesses in the J-planks. Further actions depend on the configuration of the roof overhangs and the relief of the pediment.
If it is triangular in shape, carry out a set of soffits and their fastening in the same way that was used when installing the siding panels. With the correct docking of two spotlights, a characteristic click should be heard. Thanks to the locks, the panels are firmly connected to each other.
But here, too, you need to follow the same rule as when installing siding: leave a 2-3 mm wide gap between the trim elements.
The procedure for filing a roof with soffits
Installation of soffits
Sewing eaves overhangs
If the pediment is trapezoidal or of a more complex shape, connecting strips are attached at the points of breaks and turns. With their help, the lines of soffits are joined together. The final stage of work is the installation of droppers. They are attached to the outer edge of the roof slopes.
Installation of drips
House after finishing the pediment
Posted By: Work Style |02, Nov 2020
Posted By: Work Style |04, Nov 2020
Posted By: Work Style |13, Nov 2020
Posted By: Work Style |02, Nov 2020
Posted By: Work Style |13, Nov 2020