Installation of a wooden ventilated facade - technical characteristics in the installation and advantages + Video

Wooden ventilated facade - technical characteristics, advantages. Responsible owners of private houses are concerned not only with the economical consumption of funds for heating, but also with the condition of the facade of their cozy wooden house, so they will certainly be interested in learning about the multilayer structure of the ventilated wooden facade.

The desire to insulate the house can be caused by the fact that, despite the good thermal characteristics of the tree, over time the structure of the building will begin to shrink and the boards or a log frame begin to crack, and the thermal insulation is broken, and the facade is tested for strength.

If we are talking about such a building material as glued laminated timber, then the walls from it are no more than 0.3 meters, while high-quality thermal insulation is possible only with a wall thickness of 0.

4 meters and above.

Why insulate a wooden house?

There is a way out of the situation if you use an expanded polystyrene layer as thermal insulation, but only if the owner of the home does not against that he had a "lifeless" construction of wood. Polymer material, releasing chemical components due to moisture and heat, remains only a decorative design. It is customary to carry out work on the reconstruction of wooden houses, as well as the arrangement of the facade, with hinged systems - siding, PVC panels, block house, clinker tiles, etc.

An integrated approach to cladding

Installation of a wooden ventilated wooden facade makes it possible to solve:

• Question with insulation.

• The problem of leveling visible wall defects.
• The task of decorating and creating extra strength.
• Problem with sound insulation of wall structures. It also makes it easier to care for them, makes it possible to extend the period until the next repair work and the use of the house in general.

Wall cake with a ventilated facade

Such a ventilated "cake" turns out to be multi-layered.

It consists of a wooden wall surface, an insulation layer, a membrane to protect it from moisture, a ventilation gap and a finishing layer of decorative cladding. Each layer plays a specific role in a ventilated facade for a wooden house, so you cannot change such a "filling" for something else. The choice of insulation material will depend on the financial capabilities of the home owner, as well as the climatic conditions in the region. In the northern regions, special attention is paid to insulation.

Note: It is believed that it is possible to speak about efficient energy saving only when the thickness of the insulating material is 7 to 10 cm.

For this, foam can be used. It will not absorb moisture, which is an additional plus. Also, the material is characterized by a low level of vapor permeability, and this is a disadvantage. In contrast, mineral insulators are famous for their excellent noise absorption, but at the same time they are afraid of water.

At the same time, the windproof film will keep the structure from the destructive effect of gusts of wind or moisture.

A ventilation layer that prevents the formation of condensation can be created by installing a lattice structure. The lathing has another useful function - trim parts are attached to it. The ventilated facade of a wooden house allows its residents not to freeze in the winter and not suffer from the summer heat.

Manufacturing "ventilated" insulation

In order to make a ventilated facade with your own hands, follow the instructions below:

• Preparatory work should begin with a roof inspection. After that, it will be possible to make a decision on complex repair work on the walls and roof structure.

  If you neglect these requirements, you can reduce the effectiveness of facade protection measures to a minimum, since the heat that the walls will not "release" will start to go through the roof into the environment.

• Decide on the choice of material for thermal insulation and calculation of thickness. Among the options, you can pay attention to polystyrene, glass wool and stone wool, which have a low burning rate.
• Wall preparation - clean the butt joints of worn-out old hemp. If necessary, seal again the cracks that formed during shrinkage and drying of the wood.

• It is possible to arrange a wooden ventilated facade with the help of lining. Sheathing walls with boards is an opportunity to hide prepared log or frame walls under it.
• If you will not be using thermal insulation boards, the windproof film membrane can be attached directly to the walls and secured with self-adhesive mounting tape.
• In order to equip thermal insulation, assembly, and then installation of a wooden lathing is required. Firstly, it will serve as a cellular structure in which the insulation plates will be mounted, and secondly, it will bear the entire weight of the fixed facing material.

  The wood under the frame will be specially impregnated with antiseptics. A 4 * 4 beam or slats with a width of 3-5 cm should be placed between each other at a slightly smaller width than the width of the thermal insulation plates, and this should be done with the expectation of dense filling of the space when laying with a vaping.

Please note, that in this case, the rules for displacement of the laying elements should be followed - they should be located with a slight offset (by 50% of the slab length) of the upper row to lower. This will ensure uniform insulation. The best solution to the problem is considered to be insulation, the density of which can be from 80 to 150 kg / m ² .

It can be both rolled and tiled material (universal size - 100 * 60 cm with a thickness of 5 cm).

• It is advisable to install a protective glass mesh at the corners of the facade of the house.It will keep corners from wind load.
• The end posts should be set first. Pull the cord between them.

  Using a plumb line, fill the space of the batten at the same level with wooden elements. Wool insulation boards should be fixed with umbrella type dowels. Hardware should be buried about 5 cm into the masonry. Holes for them should be made in advance with a drill with a drill, which will have a cross-section slightly smaller than the diameter of the nail or screw. To prevent the edges of the wood trim from cracking, the extreme point on the board must be drilled no closer than 10 cm from the edge.

• Now, strips of vapor-permeable insulation should be laid on the slabs hermetically, horizontally and with an overlap of 0. 1 meter. It will protect the material that absorbs moisture from precipitation and wind, and will also allow the walls to "breathe". Both membrane and polyethylene are used as a material for vapor barrier, but its thickness in this case should be at least 200 microns.
• If you will not lay the insulation, then the slatted sheet should be placed in 5 cm increments.

  In this case, the horizontal arrangement of the lining requires the manufacture of a vertical crate. In case of large defects in the form of irregularities on the surface of the wall, which were detected using a level, they should be eliminated by making a plywood lining in the right places. The points for the fixing holes should be elongated and oval.

Hardware, galvanized and thus protected from corrosion, should be driven in exactly in the middle of the hole to provide room for maneuvers within 1 cm when material characteristics change and stress mitigation. Do NOT screw in closer than 10 cm from the edge!

• If you fill the bars over the mounted frame perpendicular to the location main slats, you get a counter-grill, namely a ventilation duct.

  In the lower part, the lining elements should not be lower than 0.3 meters from the ground. Here, through the vents (unformed space), there will be an air intake under the cladding. It will climb the "shaft" with a thickness of 4 cm with natural thrust and exit in the second duct, which is located under the roof. A layer of air moving from the outside will prevent moisture from entering through the pores in the wall and will not allow it to destroy the wall.

  With the active movement of air, condensation will not settle on the mineral wool slabs, and if it gets wet, then heat loss will increase.

• If the boards have straight edges, then we lay with an overlap - the upper element should overlap the lower board with its edge, and thus exclude gaps through which water can penetrate the walls. From below, horizontal laying is performed. If you want to install the panels orthogonally, use panels with tongue-and-groove joints. And the last styling option is diagonal.

  In this case, the lock connection will be oriented with the spikes up and the grooves down.In this case, moisture will not be able to penetrate into the places of fixation and will only drain along them. At the bottom, the ventilation gap should be covered with a mesh that will protect a kind of "cake" from the penetration of rodents and insects. Also, do not forget to drain the dripping moisture.

Please note, that in order to save finishing panels, work should be started from large areas (by area).

Then you can assemble the boards obtained by cutting non-multiple segments when finishing architectural forms. In this case, even the amount of waste will be reduced.

The laid ventilated wooden facade needs additional external protection. Boards should be covered with colorless (if you want to preserve the natural beauty of the wood) or tinted varnish. The easiest way is to paint the facade.

If you use a painted material in an array, only those areas where the boards were cut should be varnished or painted. An additional advantage of a wooden structure is that it is lightweight and gentle on the foundation.

Conclusion

Installation of ready-made elements of the facade will help to facilitate cladding and makes it possible to do this work with your own hands. An important condition is the use of only certified and high-quality materials and compliance with all installation steps. Attempts to interfere with the facade system, the desire to save money, use damaged or defective elements will lead to a violation of the integrity of the mechanism as a whole - it will not be able to fully perform all its functions.