Installation of plastic windows: stages of work, nuances, recommendations

Installation of plastic windows: stages of work, nuances, recommendations DIY installation of plastic windows + step-by-step instructions and video

If either your friends / acquaintances / family members used the services of firms that install double-glazed windows, then you know for sure that installation work can be simple and according to GOST. The second option is preferable, but also much more expensive, because the workers will follow all the rules, and then the quality will be an order of magnitude higher than in the first case (we suggest reading more about the standards in GOST 30971-02).

Installation of plastic windows can be divided into such stages as taking measurements (and accurate measurements are already half the success), dismantling the old window frame, preparatory work and installation itself.

General information

Installation of plastic windows: stages of work, nuances, recommendations Please note that that when installing plastic windows with their own hands, manufacturers will not give you a guarantee in case the measurements were taken incorrectly (not by their employees). If the installation is incorrectly performed, the windows will soon begin to freeze, and if at least one slightest mistake was made in the calculation, then the structure simply cannot enter the window opening.

But still, if you study all the subtleties of this process in advance, then with your own editing there will be no difficulties. Moreover, you will have a great opportunity to save a decent amount of money.

Installation details

Stage # 1 - measurements

In a large number of apartments, you can often find openings without a quarter.

Interesting fact! The quarter is an internal frame with a width of 6 cm (or 1/4 of a brick, which is why the name comes from), which helps prevent the window from falling out and strengthens the structure as a whole.

So, if this quarter is not there, then the frame will need to be installed on anchors, and the foam will be closed using special cover strips.

Determining if you have a quarter will be quite simple - if the outer and inner frame widths are different, then you already have a quarter.

And how to correctly measure?

  1. First, determine what is the width of the opening (the distance between the slopes). It is better to remove the plaster in advance in order to get a more accurate result.
  2. Next, you need to measure the height (the distance between the window sill and the slope).

Note, that measurements should be repeated several times and the lowest result should be chosen.

In order to determine the width of the window from the width of the opening, subtract two installation gaps. In order to determine the height from the height of the opening, subtract all the same two gaps and add to this the height of the profile for the stand. Accurate measurements of the opening will give you a guarantee for the perfect combination of the ease of use of a plastic window and its aesthetic perception. Next, you should check the straightness and symmetry of the opening, and for this it is worth using a plumb line and a mounting level. All irregularities and defects must be indicated in the constructed drawing.

To determine what the width of the ebb for water should be, add 5 cm to the existing ebb for the bend. In addition, you should definitely take into account what is the width of the insulation layer and the facing material (provided that after installing the plastic windows you will also start finishing the facade). The dimensions of the sill are determined in this way - the size of the departure is added to the existing width of the opening, and the width of the frame should be subtracted from the resulting figure. As for the departure itself, it should block the heating radiator by 1/3.

Please note that the slopes should be measured after the installation is complete.

Stage # 2 - order

After the measurements are taken, the finished drawing must be referred to the pre-selected manufacturer of plastic windows, and there you can pick up all the necessary fittings.

It is worth remembering right away that the installation can be performed using one of two existing methods:

  • Through the frame in the installation plane.
  • By means of an armature of the support type, which was equipped during manufacture.

If we talk about the first option, then you need to pull the glass unit out of the frame, insert it into the opening and then install the glass back. In the second case, the entire structure will be attached entirely and immediately.

Both options have drawbacks - if you pull out the bag, it can be damaged, and vice versa, if you put the assembled window, then it can also be damaged due to its heavy weight.

Cost of the most popular window rulers

The most popular windows at the moment from Fakro. The company provides the service of warming balconies loggias, the cost is from 1200 rubles for each square meter. Dormer windows are expensive - from 14,500 to 22,500 rubles per frame.

Stage 3 - preparatory work

This stage of installation begins only after delivery of the ordered frames and glass units.

First, the workplace should be vacated, and all pieces of furniture in the room where the window will be installed should be covered with plastic wrap (because the installation work is quite dusty). Ideally, you should completely remove all the furniture from the room, but if it is not possible, use a film and this will help protect it from dust.

Tips :

  1. If necessary, the glass unit should be removed from the window. To do this, slightly pry the glazing bead with a staple and pull it out. First of all, they take out the vertical glazing beads, and only after that you can touch the horizontal ones.

    They must be numbered, otherwise gaps may appear after installation.

  2. Then slightly tilt the frame and take out the double-glazed windows.
  3. The bolts can only be loosened after the covers have been removed from the awnings. The knobs should be turned to the "airing" mode, that is, in the center, and the window should be slightly opened and removed. You will only have a frame with imposts.

Please note that the mullions are special jumpers that are required for the section of the sash.

Next, you need to make outlines for the anchors and make holes along it - make two at the bottom and the same at the top on each side. This will require anchors with a diameter of 1 cm and a drill of the required diameter. If the material from which the walls are made is loose (for example, we are talking about aerated concrete), then the fastening must be done using anchor suspensions. The latter must be fixed to the wall and to the window frame using hardened self-tapping screws.

Please note, h that in order to avoid a thermal bridge in the window sill profile, the day before installation work, it should be filled with polyurethane foam, and then the element will not freeze.

Stage 4 - dismantling of old ceilings / frames

Before installing plastic windows with your own hands, first you need to remove the old frame. This procedure is best done just before installing a new window. Old frames are most often thrown away, and therefore the structure can be torn out along with the mount, and if necessary, simply saw the frame.

Process:

  1. First take off the insulation and the sealant.

  2. Next, remove the plaster layer from the slopes. To do this, it is best to use a hammer drill with a special attachment, which is called "paddle".
  3. Remove the sill itself and clean off the cement layer underneath.
  4. The adjacent surfaces should be primed (unfortunately, most installers forget about this for some reason). If the opening is wooden, it should be laid along the perimeter with a layer of waterproofing material.

Good advice! Installation of windows is allowed at a temperature not lower than -15 degrees. In addition, when installing in winter, only frost resistant foam should be used.

Stage 5 - installation of plastic windows

So, let's look at everything step by step:

  1. Installation of plastic windows: stages of work, nuances, recommendations To begin with, you should put wooden wedges around the entire perimeter, and install a window on them (it will be much easier to align the structure), and only after that you can mount to the wall ...

    The underlays can be left on, as they can serve as an additional attachment.

  2. The absence of a support profile can be considered a gross violation of all GOST standards, since it is not only required for stability, but in addition, it can make it possible to install an ebb from window sills. In the absence of a profile, they are attached directly to the frame, which will break its tightness. The diagram shows the correct placement of the stand profile.
  3. Next, you should check the evenness of the windows in three planes, and for this the best solution would be to use a mounting level, as well as a plumb line.

    Typically, standard bubble building levels are not suitable for such tasks due to the fact that they have an insufficient level of accuracy, and therefore it is worth using a laser level.

  4. If the window sits flat at once, then you should fix it with anchors. To do this, use a perforator to drill a wall through the previously prepared holes (approximately to a depth of 6 to 10 cm). then fix (but not completely) the lower anchors, and again check the evenness of the double-glazed windows, and then you can fix the remaining points.

Please note that the final screed must only be carried out after the final check.

Do not tighten everything too much, as otherwise the structure may be skewed.

Stage 6 - ebb for rainwater

When installing plastic windows, you will need to install an ebb for rainwater. Outside, an outflow should be attached to the support profile using self-tapping screws. The joints should be carefully sealed with a sealant so that moisture cannot get into the structure. The edges of the low tide should be sunk into the walls for several centimeters, and recesses should be made in advance using a perforator.

In addition, the lower gap must be closed before installation work. Further, the lower part of the low tide should be glued with a strip of material with noise insulation (for example, "Linotherm") or make a "pillow" of polyurethane foam so that the sounds from the rain do not bother you in the future.

Step 7 - assembly of the window frame

After the anchors are attached, the glass unit should be inserted back into the frame:

  1. The glass must be inserted and secured with a glazing bead (the latter must snap into place, and for this you can slightly tap them with a rubber mallet).
  2. Open the leaves, check how tight they fit. In the open position, arbitrary closing and opening of the sash cannot occur if you align the window.

  3. The installation seam should be closed at the sides. Polyurethane foam will provide high-quality waterproofing and prevent glass fogging. Before and after seams are repaired, spray should be applied to improve curing.

Good advice! The seams should be filled no more than 9/10, because otherwise the structures will simply "lead". If you do everything correctly, then after drying, the foam will begin to protrude outward by a few centimeters.

The perimeter of the window must be glued with a special vapor barrier tape, while the bottom material is used with a surface that is foil.

Installing the window sill

And now about the window sill. To begin with, it should be trimmed so that it normally fits into the opening and at the same time rests on the lining profile. Leave a small 1 cm gap for thermal expansion. In the future, it can be hidden with a plastic slope.

Place wooden wedges under the windowsill. It should be placed with a slight incline towards the room, and then applied with something heavy for a short while, until the foam hardens. Additionally secure the window sill with anchor plates.

Conclusion

Now you also know how to install plastic windows in an apartment with your own hands, and therefore you can safely start working. The final check of the elements can be carried out only a day after the end of all work (when all the foam has time to "grab").

The described technology is also suitable for glazing a balcony, but there are other nuances - the installation of a parapet to create a partition.

( 1 grade, average 5 of 5 )

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