Siding has a lot of positive characteristics, but it cannot boast of thermal insulation properties. That is why, when decorating residential buildings, the walls are first insulated, and only then the coating panels are attached. What kind of insulation for siding has the best properties, what criteria should be used to choose it, and how to properly insulate it with your own hands - this will be discussed in the article.
Insulation for siding
In each In a hardware store, heaters are presented in a wide range, and it is very difficult for an inexperienced person to understand them. Rolls and slabs, expensive and cheap, domestic and foreign production, of different density and thickness - how to determine exactly what you need?
Insulation for siding
First of all, you need to be guided by the requirements that the material must meet:
The lower this indicator, the less heat escapes through the walls of the room;
Not all materials have such qualities in full, and below we will consider only the most suitable ones.
Next, you need to take into account the installation method, especially if you are going to do all the work yourself. Rolled insulation is less convenient to install, it is much easier to fix the plates.
Roll and plate heaters
The most popular heaters for siding today are:
Mineral wool, according to GOST 52953-2008, is divided into three types - stone, slag and glass wool.
GOST R 52953-2008 - free download.
MATERIALS AND HEAT-INSULATING PRODUCTS
GOST R 52953-2008
For the production of the first type, basalt and silicate rocks are used, as well as their mixtures, slag wool is made from metallurgical waste, glass wool - from waste glass industry. These heaters are very thin fibers pressed into thick webs, which are produced in the form of rolls and mats of various sizes and densities. Additionally, they can be foil-coated. As a rule, only stone and glass wool is used to insulate a house for siding, since slag insulation is less water resistant.
Mineral wool insulation with a foil layer
An example of the use of mineral wool for insulation under siding
Polystyrene foam insulation, polystyrene foam and EPS, are light dense sheets formed from a large number of closed cells filled with air.
Due to this structure, these heaters practically do not absorb water. They are produced only in the form of plates, differing in density, size, degree of flammability.
Insulation based on expanded polystyrene
Extruded expanded polystyrene is excellent for the Russian climate
Blowing materials are those materials that are applied to the base using a special installation under high pressure. Once dry, they form a durable, seamless coating with excellent thermal insulation properties.
Blown-in insulation - ecowool
Seamless house insulation
Technical characteristics of basalt wool
Material properties
Of all types of stone wool, basalt insulation is considered the most popular.
It is distinguished by the lowest content of binder components, which includes formaldehyde resins and phenol, which are hazardous to health, which means that it is one of the most environmentally friendly materials. The fibers that make up the insulation are not prickly and smooth enough, so they do not cling to clothes, they do not cause irritation on the skin, you can perform work without protective gloves.
Basalt insulation
Technical characteristics of basalt wool
Parameters | Values |
---|---|
Thermal conductivity | 0.035-0.041 W / (m K) |
Water absorption | no more than 2% |
Water vapor permeability | 0. 55 mg / mhPa |
Density | 30-225 kg / m3 |
Operating temperature | from -180 to 700 ᵒС |
Degree of flammability | non-combustible material |
Material thickness | from 30 to 150 mm |
Dimensions | 500x1000 mm, 600х1000 mm, 600х1200 mm |
Manufacturers produce stone wool in the form of mats, soft, semi-rigid and rigid slabs, in rolls. For installation under siding, rigid and semi-rigid slabs are most convenient, but rolled insulation is more suitable for horizontal and inclined surfaces.
Pluses of stone wool:
Cons :
There are many manufacturers who, to reduce the cost of the manufacturing process, use various industrial waste instead of pure rocks, but at the same time pass off their products as high-quality basalt insulation. It is very difficult to visually recognize a fake, especially for an inexperienced person, so buy stone wool from well-known, time-tested brands. Now the following manufacturers enjoy a high reputation in the market of thermal insulation materials:
Insulation manufacturer Technicol
Mineral wool ISOVER
The popularity of glass wool has dropped markedly with the advent of basalt and slag insulation on the market, but it is still used in various fields. In appearance, it does not differ much from stone wool, but it is more fragile, therefore many manufacturers additionally reinforce the material using steel threading.
A feature of glass wool is that glass fibers are destroyed at the slightest impact and form a fine dust that easily eats into the skin, penetrates the respiratory tract, eyes and causes severe irritation.For this reason, it is possible to work with glass wool only in protective clothing, a respirator and glasses.
Glass wool
Parameters | Values |
---|---|
Thermal conductivity | 0.039-0.047 W / (m K) |
Vapor permeability | 0. 6 mg / mh * Pa |
Water absorption | 1.5-1.7% |
Density | 11-25 kg / m3 |
Degree of flammability | from NG to G1 |
Material thickness | 50-100 mm |
Dimensions | 610х1170 mm, 600х1250 mm |
Working temperature | from -60 to 450 ᵒС |
Advantages of glass wool:
A layer of material with a thickness of 50 mm is similar in terms of thermal insulation properties of a meter-thick brickwork;
Disadvantages :
Glass wool rolls
Tip. Slabs laminated with fiberglass with a density of about 30 kg / m3 are best suited for siding. In order not to get a low-quality insulation, pay attention only to certified glass wool from leading manufacturers, for example, Knauf, Isover, Ursa, the domestic brand "Neman".
Mineral wool
Foam plastic has a very low hygroscopicity, in which it is significantly superior to fibrous insulation. Walls sheathed with foam also do not require additional wind protection. This is one of the cheapest insulation options, although not the most effective. Due to the vapor tightness of the material, it is necessary to regularly ventilate the room so that condensation does not accumulate on the walls.
Styrofoam
Pros of foam:
Cons :
Thermal insulation of facades with foam plastic
This material has characteristics similar to foam, but in all respects it is much better. EPPS is widely used in industrial and private construction, its installation does not require much effort or special skills.
Extruded polystyrene foam
Pros:
Cons :
Parameters | Polyfoam | EPPS |
---|---|---|
Thermal conductivity | 0.035 W / (m K) | 0.028 - 0.032 W / (m K) |
Water absorption | 0.5 - 1% | 0. 1 - 0.4% |
Density | 11-35 kg / m3 | 30-40 kg / m3 |
Degree of flammability | G1 - G4 | G1 - G4 |
Thickness | 20-100 mm | 40-100 mm |
Dimensions | 500х500 mm, 600х1200 mm, 1000х1000 mm | 580х1180 mm, 600х1200 mm |
Polyfoam
Ecowool is a new material made from cellulose fibers. It contains a binder - lignin, fire retardants and boric acid as an antiseptic. Ecowool is a loose mass that is applied dry or wet.
Ecowool
Penoizol and polyurethane foam have a cellular structure and are applied to walls in liquid form.
They are lightweight, therefore they almost do not exert loads on the base, but at the same time they cover the entire area with a dense, uniform layer. With this method of insulation, there is no need to level the walls and install a windscreen, which greatly simplifies installation.
Urea-formaldehyde foam - universal insulation
House insulation with penoizol
Pros:
Minuses :
Thermal insulation with polyurethane foam
Parameters | Ecowool | Penoizol |
---|---|---|
Thermal conductivity | from 0. 037 to 0.042 W / (m * K) | from 0.031 up to 0.041 W / (m * K) |
Layer density | 28-65 kg / m3 | 5-75 kg / m3 |
Water vapor permeability | 0.3 mg / (mhPa) | 0. 21-0.24 mg / (mchPa) |
Degree of flammability | G2 | G1 |
Operating temperature | from -40 to +120 0С | -60 + 80 ᵒС |
Regardless of the material chosen and the method of fixing it, the surface must first be properly prepared. To do this, they remove everything that can interfere with the work - lighting devices, platbands, decorative elements and other items, and then carefully examine the walls. It is not necessary to level the base, but it is imperative to patch up the cracks and remove the fungus.
Wooden beams or metal profiles are used as a lathing for siding.
If you prefer a timber, it is worth pre-treating it with an antiseptic impregnation to avoid damage to the wood from condensation and the development of mold.
Lathing from a wooden bar
Bar
Step 1. A frame made of timber with a section of 50x50 mm is fixed on the wall. The bars are fastened vertically with self-tapping screws and dowels, the distance between the posts should be 1.5-2 cm less than the width of the insulation.
It is imperative to control the vertical arrangement of the racks with a building level so that all the elements of the crate are in the same plane.
We fix the frame from a bar
Step 2. Plates of mineral wool are alternately inserted between the beams, slightly crushing the edges. After installation, the material is easily straightened and tightly fills the crate cells. If necessary, the plates are cut with a knife or fine-toothed hacksaw.
Alternately insert the plates between the beams
Step 3. If the insulation is planned to be mounted in two layers, on top racks with self-tapping screws fasten horizontal jumpers from a bar at the same distance. Next, the mineral wool slabs are fixed again.
Install the second row of timber
Step 4. A windproof membrane is attached on top of the insulation.
Since its width is not enough for the entire wall area, it is fixed with horizontal stripes, starting from the bottom of the facade. It is most convenient to use a stapler to fix the membrane. Each subsequent strip is laid with an overlap of at least 10 cm. To increase the tightness of the coating, the joints are glued with tape along the entire length.
We fix the windproof membrane
Step 5.
Next, strictly according to the level, the guides for the siding are installed using the mounting plates. The plates are fastened with self-tapping screws to the crate with a pitch of 40 cm. An air gap of about 3-5 cm should remain between the guides and the windproof membrane.
Install the guides under the siding
After that, proceed to cladding the facade with siding panels. As you can see, the technology is quite simple and everyone can do it.
The most important thing is to firmly fasten the plates so that they do not dangle between the posts. If there are gaps, the heat will escape and all efforts will be in vain.
We start cladding the facade with siding panels
Siding
Step 1. On the wall, along the level mark the location of the hangers for the guides. The hangers should be fastened along the entire facade in 40 cm increments.
Holes are drilled at the marked points, dowels are inserted and the hangers are fixed with screws.
Fasten the hangers
Step 2. Take the EPSP board, apply it to the wall and press it a little to traces of suspensions were imprinted. Following these traces, cuts are made in the insulation with a knife or a special cutter. Then the slab is again attached to the wall and put on the suspensions, pressing it tightly to the base.
Step 3 . The rest of the plates are fixed in the same way, trying to make the joints as thin as possible. If in the process of work gaps have formed here and there, they need to be sealed with polyurethane foam with a pistol.
We fix all the EPSP boards
Step 4. After sheathing the facade with insulation, proceed to the installation of guide profiles under siding.
The profiles are attached to suspensions that protrude from the heat-insulating layer; a 2-3 cm wide ventilation gap is left between the guides and the insulation. Next, the siding is attached.
Installation of guides
This insulation can also be attached using umbrella dowels and special glue. In this case, it is more convenient to first mount the crate to which the siding will be attached. Glue is applied to the insulation, then the plate is inserted between the guides and pressed against the base.
Upon completion of the installation, the plates at the joints are additionally fixed with umbrella dowels.
Characteristics of ecowool
Thermal insulation of walls with ecowool can be performed in two ways - dry and wet. The first method is not reliable enough, since the material is blown through small holes in the protective film, and it is impossible to control the density and uniformity of filling. In this regard, the wet method is more convenient, the whole process takes place in plain sight. It is this second method that we will consider.
Equipment for ecowool installation
Step 1. The walls are cleaned of dust, cracks and other defects are eliminated ...The guides for siding will be strengthened strictly in level with a step of about 50 cm.
The fastening of the guides must be carried out using mounting plates so that the thickness of the frame is at least 10 cm.
Fixed guides
Step 2. Ecowool is poured into the blowing unit, a water-gel solution is added there, and mixed until homogeneous.
Step 3. Turn on the installation and apply a viscous mass to the walls in a dense layer.
Seams and corners are especially carefully processed so that no voids remain.
Thermal insulation of walls with ecowool
Applying ecowool on the wall
Insulated ecowool wall
Step 4. Allow the insulation to dry completely, after which the siding panels are mounted to the crate ...
Similarly, the house is insulated with penoizol and polyurethane foam. Many companies lease a spraying unit, which is much cheaper than buying equipment. But in order to do everything efficiently, certain skills are required, and it is better for a beginner to hire specialists for this.
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