How to make lighting in the garage with your own hands - the subtleties of the process and the advice of the masters
Usually they try to equip the garage as best you can. But if enough attention is paid to its protection against attack, strength, changes in temperature and moisture, then lighting and its components are very often underestimated.
At the same time, the ease of use of the room as a whole, and the zones separately, will largely depend on the quality of the backlight. We suggest considering how to make lighting in the garage with your own hands.
The subtleties of the process.
The garage not only stores cars, but also sometimes repairs. It is inconvenient and time-consuming to roll the car out into the street every time, which is why craftsmen often equip special inspection pits, but even in bright sunlight, when the doors are fully open, then there is not enough light in this part of the room for all the work. Lighting inside the garage should also be thought out so that even in the most distant corners everything is perfectly visible. I can prepare and install the necessary lighting devices.
First, you should decide what kind of llama you need.
It is definitely not worth using standard incandescent lamps, if only because they have low efficiency, and a lot of heat will be generated during operation. In addition, the spectrum of radiation from old lamps will be presented in red and yellow tones, which will distract from work. Also, the risks of fire when the incandescent lamp starts to burn out are very high.
Note the halogen bulbs, which are very similar to incandescent bulbs, but in this case the bulb is filled with bromine vapor. Due to this, tungsten filaments heat up much better, give an excellent luminous flux and ways to work up to 4000 hours.
There are also fluorescent lamps, which are a bulb, and in them the electrodes are surrounded by inert gases. The inner surface is treated with phosphors, which will glow when exposed to ultraviolet rays. It is recommended to select light sources that will have a minimum IP-65 level of protection, because they are resistant to dirt and dust.
and is considered a real breakthrough in lighting. Such devices are quite expensive, but provided they are of high quality they can work up to 50,000 hours.
Compared to fluorescent lamps, LEDs will consume much less current and give more beautiful light. LED lighting is universal, and fluorescent lighting is much more effective in heated rooms, and halogen in cold rooms.
Use an LED floodlight to illuminate certain areas of the garage - even when working under the machine and inside the inspection pit. Autonomous lighting is also much better based on LEDs. It is usually created on the basis of tapes in shades (it includes 300 diodes).
The wires will lead to the ceiling, and switching through the shield.When the garage is left without electricity, then 12 volts will be provided from the battery for a certain time. When power is restored, the battery will start charging again.
who constantly follow technical modern advances, often use another device that makes it possible to be less dependent on interruptions in the backbone network. Here we are talking about a solar battery, which is capable of generating electricity during daylight hours, and at night the battery will give back its charge.
The only problem is that either it will take all day to be in the garage, or pay a lot for good security, because there are many who want to steal such batteries, and the devices are very expensive.
Please note that good lighting in the garage can be obtained by installing a motion sensor to automatically turn on the lamps. When moving around with heavy tools, bulky parts, or even greasy hands, even the best switches are difficult to use. Automation will make it possible to successfully solve this problem.
In addition to the selection of a variety of lamps and a complete set of lighting systems, it will be necessary to make the correct calculation of the power.
The easiest way is to use light sources with a power of 16 to 20 watts per square meter.
Corrections are also introduced:
This makes it much easier to save on energy if you make the floor, walls and ceiling as light as possible.
Once the light sources and their wattage have been identified, it's time to choose their placement. The main requirement will be to distribute the light evenly throughout the garage. Most often, lamps are installed in such a way that it is more convenient and comfortable. The traditional scheme will involve fixing the fixtures to the ceiling and wall, while a more modern approach also includes the use of an autonomous system.
Battery-powered flashlights can not only be moved to any convenient location, but also completely independent of the electrical network. Lighting in the garage is advised to be multi-level - there should be a large lamp at the top, and side lamps, which are much smaller in size, are installed for all working areas.
A typical distribution pattern is:
- The first level is the ceiling.
- The second is the height of 1.8 meters.
- The third (aka worker) height is 0. 7 meters.
- Fourth - 0. 4 meters from the floor surface.
Adequate lighting in the garage is done in such a way that the shadow of the car does not fall on the lamps.
Side-type lamps should be mounted on brackets, which will make it possible to turn them in the desired direction.Fixed-type light sources should be placed so that they are not blinded when exiting and entering. Another prerequisite will be the use of shades. This will help prevent the negative effects of blinking and glare. The main light should not just be on the ceiling, but also where it will illuminate the hood and not give a shadow.
It is also extremely important to prepare the lighting for the viewing pit, where something can roll at any time. In this case, it is allowed to use only those light sources that have low power, that is, halogen lamps and LEDs. The fact is that high humidity, from which there is no escape, increases the risk of electric shock. Lighting devices should be put in bottles, which are covered with a steel mesh, along the edges of the pit, in specially prepared niches. It turns out that the lamps will not interfere with their work, and will be intact even if a bulky object or sharp tools fall.
Wiring should be done with a hidden method, but please note that after plastering, the finishing material was not destroyed. The wires must be made parallel to the ceiling, and before starting work, consult with an experienced specialist. If you are not completely sure of your own skills and knowledge, then it is better to hire a qualified technician, especially if your garage is located in the basement or in another place where water accumulates.
Lighting in the garage with your own hands implies that you need to make a clear diagram, which will indicate:
- Power supplies or inputs from the street.
- Wiring routes.
- Other stationary devices.
- Switches and sockets.
Next, you need to go to the store with this scheme, so that it would be easier for consultants to figure it out, perhaps they will prompt you something, and there will be less risk of forgetting all the necessary things or confusing something ..
. Junction boxes should be installed above each switch or outlet, and when the connections and installation are complete, it is worth immediately checking the functionality of the switches and components. If you find even small problems, you should immediately fix them.
In both large and small garages, open wiring will require the use of ducts (metal or plastic). A corrugated pipe can become a replacement for boxes.
It will be more expedient when choosing an option to focus on advice from professionals. In any case, a general switch will be a mandatory element, which is located at the entrance or even at the entrance to the garage.
It makes it possible to turn on the overhead light at the entrance to the garage, or immediately extinguish it when leaving. For illumination in the inspection pit, Anna lamps of 36 or 12 volts are required (the choice is only a matter of taste).
The power supply of the light sources must be done using a multicore cable, the cross-section of which will be from 1.
5 to 2 mm.It is recommended to choose lamps with a color temperature in the range of 4000-5500 K. The cap type can be E40 and E27.
LED devices can have the following typical dimensions:
To reduce the cost of buying lamps and energy consumption, a mirror should be installed in the darkest places.
By reflecting rays, it will make it possible to increase the degree of illumination without great expense.
Safety requirements prescribe to ground the inputs to the distribution boards, and the resistance at the ground will be a maximum of 4 ohms. Regardless of the specific organization of electrical power, an electric meter should be installed in a separate garage, and the garage is also connected to the home network, then it is not required.
The current of the input machine will be determined according to the value technically admissible in such an electrical network or allowed by the board of the garage cooperative. The circuit should also have a residual current device (RCD), step-down transformers and separate automatic machines for chargers, as well as welding machines.
It is more correct to make the lighting lines based on the VVG 3 * 1 cable. 5.Single-phase power circuits are made from VVG 3 * 2 wire. 5, and three-phase and completely from a VVG 5 * 2 wire. 5.
VVGng 3 * 1 cables are used inside the boxes and PVC pipes. 5. Open installations on top of a combustible base will need to be equipped with VVGng LS 3 * 1. 5, which, due to its complex insulation, makes it possible to do without strengthening protection. Tracks can be drawn both horizontally and vertically.
Please note that turns can only be made at an angle of 90 degrees, and with a gap at least 0.15 meters from the curtain and the floor. Do not place wires closer than 15 cm from heating pipes and other heating structures. Since there is always dust and water in the garage, all electrical equipment must be protected from such factors. It is forbidden to bring switches close to jambs, windows and gates.
The minimum installation height of the sockets will be 0. 6 meters.
Wiring, installation of distribution cabinets and other components is impossible to be drills, hammer drills and wall chasers.
Still worth preparing:
Please note that one socket should fall on 6 m 2 garage, while the switches of the local and general level should be separated ...
When the room is zoned, the number of light sources at the general level can be reduced. But this means that you will still need to connect private power supplies to the main power lines. Brick walls with plaster of lime and plaster make it possible to make hidden wiring. The center of the cabling will be the internal distribution block. In the direction of the sockets, strobes are drawn for the power cable.
Also, indentations from switches to luminaires on the ceiling should be done only vertically. When a fireproof or false ceiling is used, the lighting lines should be retracted into a special corrugation, which will hide the false ceiling.
On a high ceiling with a complex configuration or a material that is strong and difficult to process, stretch the corrugation under a canopy. When working, it is worthwhile to carefully monitor that the cable tension is uniform - it should not stretch or break. The locations for the junction box must be provided with a recess.
Posted By: Work Style |13, Nov 2020
Posted By: Work Style |13, Nov 2020
Posted By: Work Style |11, Nov 2020
Posted By: Work Style |11, Nov 2020