Lining nails: varieties, step-by-step instructions for installing panels

The quality of clapboard finishing largely depends on the method of fastening. Fasteners must securely hold the material, and at the same time be completely invisible. Self-tapping screws, clamps, screws are used to fix the panels to the crate, but the most practical option is nails. Here are just nails for the lining are needed not ordinary, but finishing, differing in the shape of the cap and some characteristics.

What are finishing nails

This refers to nails with a small cylindrical head, the diameter of which is only slightly larger than the diameter of the rod.

They are designed specifically for fixing decorative trims, as they provide a secret fastening. These nails have a small thickness, as a result of which they easily enter the wood without causing cracking. It is easy to drown a small hat in the thickness of the material using a doboiner.

Characteristics

The rods of such hardware are smooth, with notches in the upper part, from 20 to 90 mm long. The hat has an oval shape, and its height corresponds to the diameter of the shaft.

The diameter of the cap itself varies from 1.6 to 3.4 mm. The material for the manufacture of fasteners is low-carbon steel, and anti-corrosion compounds are used as a protective coating.

Unlike simple construction nails, finishing nails are not designed for high loads, since finishing materials are usually lightweight.

They can be used only in structures that are not subject to shrinkage and mechanical stress on bending or tearing. It is also undesirable to use them for temporary coatings: not a single tool makes it possible to pick up and pull out a nail because of the small cap sunk into the tree. For the same reason, they cannot be reused.

Scope of application

Finishing nails are used not only for fastening the lining, the scope of their application is quite wide:

• furniture manufacturing;
• installation of small decor in interiors;
• decoration of window and door openings with platbands;
• fastening of thin slats, glazing beads and baseboards.

Some craftsmen use them when laying parquet and laminate, when it is necessary to fix the planks, but since the floor coverings are subject to constant mechanical stress, ordinary nails are more suitable here.

Varieties of nails

The main criterion when choosing nails is the type of protective coating. Not only the appearance depends on this, but also the durability, as well as the cost of fasteners.

Air gun nail prices

Air gun nails

Nail tool

To sink nail head and at the same time not damage the finishing material, it is necessary to choose the right working tool.

Most craftsmen use a doboinik - a tapered metal rod.

Its working end has a small diameter, so when hammering it touches only the nail head and does not catch wood. There are two types of doboins:

• with a grooved recess at the end - such a rod is designed for nails with a recess on the head;
• with a recess for a metal head - the rod reliably grips the nail and does not slide off when blow.

The upper edge of the tool is wide and flat, specially designed for hammer blows.The doboynik is very simple to use: the end of the rod is placed on a protruding head perpendicular to the surface, with one hand they hold the tool in this position, and with the other they hit the wide part from above with a hammer.

As a rule, 1-2 strokes are enough to sink the hat a couple of millimeters into the wood.

Tip. In the absence of a doboiner, it can be replaced with a large construction nail or center punch. To do this, grind the lower end of the product a little or cut it off with a grinder so that it does not slide off the hardware head. A large bolt is also suitable: it must be turned on a lathe so that the diameter of the rod matches the diameter of the nail head or is slightly smaller.

If the volume of work is large, it is very convenient to use another tool - a pneumatic nail gun. It is also called nailer and nail gun.

There are special finishing nailers of various calibers, designed for a certain size of nails.

Such a tool is quite expensive, but it has great advantages:

• reduces installation time;
• weighs little and fits comfortably in the hand;
• the nail enters the very head in one blow;
• fasteners do not bend, and there are practically no misfires;
• no great physical effort is needed.

The disadvantages include the need for a compressor and being tied to an energy source.

The technology of fastening the lining with nails

The main installation process and the location of the lining panels do not depend on the choice of fasteners, but there are certain differences in the method of fastening. In order for the coating to have an aesthetic appearance and remain durable throughout the entire period of operation, one should not only correctly select nails, but also know how to hammer them correctly. Let's consider the plating technology in detail.

Nails selection

Nails should be selected taking into account the operating conditions of the finish. For living rooms and a kitchen, a closed balcony, galvanized nails are suitable, for a bathroom or bath it is better to take chrome or copper-plated ones.

If the lining is expensive, made of exotic wood, then the nails should be appropriate - coated with copper or brass. As for the length of the nail, it should be 2.5-3 times the thickness of the material to be attached. Most often, finishing nails 50-60 mm long are used to fasten the lining.

But when assembling the lathing, it is necessary to use construction nails, which will provide the structure with the necessary strength.

Again, when choosing, take into account the effects of moisture - for rooms with high humidity, take only galvanized fasteners.If the walls are not wooden, but brick or concrete, the lathing is attached to the base using dowels.

Installation of the battens

It is impossible to fix the lining directly to the wall : Over time, shrinkage of the base can cause deformation of the coating, and accumulation of moisture between the wall and the cladding will lead to premature destruction of the material. For this reason, the crate is necessarily mounted, and the best option for its manufacture is slats with a cross section of at least 40x20 mm or a bar of 50x50 mm.

The lumber must be even, dry and free from visible defects.

Before installation, the wood must be treated with an antiseptic impregnation and dried.

First, you need to remove all rotten cladding boards from the facade, dismantle the drainage system, remove shutters, platbands and other elements that will interfere with the installation of battens and lining. Installation starts from the bottom.

It is recommended to stretch the line to simplify the leveling of the lathing plane. Next, attach intermediate beams to the wall with a step of 49 cm. The beam is fixed every 40-50 cm, and 1.5-2 cm recede from the ends. All guides must be located strictly in the same horizontal plane, otherwise the lining will not lie flat.

Council. Lining panels should be located perpendicular to the lathing.

That is, for horizontal sheathing, the frame guides are installed vertically, and vice versa.

Prices for different types of bars

Bar

Fastening the horizontal paneling

The cladding panels can be fastened from bottom to top or from top to bottom. The first method is more convenient, but very often the top panel has to be cut, which does not look very aesthetically pleasing. If you do not plan to cover the joint at the top with a decorative plinth, installation is recommended from top to bottom.

Step 1. Take the first board, apply it to the bottom of the crate so that the ridge is directed up and the groove, respectively, down. A small gap must be left between the clapboard and the floor covering to compensate for thermal expansion.

Step 2. The nail is tilted at the base of the ridge at the level of the batten and hammered in.

Then they take the doboinik and, with precise, accurate blows, they sink the hat in the tree. In the same way, fix the panel to other guides.

Prices for popular models of nailing guns

Nail gun

Step 3. Take the second plank, place it with the groove on the ridge of the first plank and press lightly from above until it snaps into place. They check the horizontal level, if necessary, they also hammer it with a hammer through a special board - a tamping so as not to damage the lining lock.

Next, fix it with nails to the frame guides. In the same way, fix the skin to the very top.

If the installation is carried out from top to bottom, the nail is driven at an angle into the groove of the first board, be sure to recess the head with a docking tool. After that, the second board is inserted into the groove with a comb and knocked down so that it fits snugly into place.

Prices for lining

Lining

Vertical fastening of the lining

For vertical arrangement, the first the board is applied to the crate with a comb in the corner.

The nail is inserted into the groove at an angle of 45 degrees so that it falls in the middle of the sheathing bar. They hammer in with not too strong blows so that the tree does not split, they sink the hat with a doboiner. The board should be secured along its entire length.

Next, take the second board, put its comb into the groove of the previous one and fix it with nails to the crate.

It is very important to sink the nail heads well, otherwise they will interfere with the tight fit of the panels to each other.

During the installation process, each panel is controlled by a level, and, if necessary, knocked out with a hammer. If you don't notice the skew in time, then it will be difficult to fix the defect - you will have to tear off the fixed panels and mount them again. The cladding should be tight, without gaps and crevices between the boards.

Fastening with nails and clamps

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Screwdrivers

This method allows you to fix the lining without damaging the wood and the risk of cracking. Installation is quite simple.

Step 1. The board is applied to the crate and aligned.

Step 2. Insert a cleat into the groove of the lathing beam.

Step 3.

Finishing nails through special holes are used to fasten the clamp to the timber.

Step 4. Put on and fasten the rest of the cleats, fixing the board along the entire length. Observe the interval between fastenings 50-60 cm.

Step 5.

Take the next board, put its comb into the groove of the previous one and fix it in the same way.

Step 6. Every 3-4 rows are checked with a level so as not to allow skewing of the coating. If necessary, such a casing can be easily dismantled and installed in another place.

Video - Nails for lining