Metal siding for stone: sizes, types of materials

Stone-like metal siding is one of the many types of finishing materials. Finishing the facade of buildings with natural stone is a very beautiful, durable and prestigious method, but due to the high cost of materials, not all developers are available. Modern technologies have allowed manufacturers to produce various materials that imitate natural stone. At the price, they suit most consumers, and in terms of their performance, they are not much inferior to natural ones.

Performance characteristics of metal siding under stone

1. Light weight .

   Allows you to finish buildings without the need to reinforce the foundations. There is an opportunity to overhaul old buildings with a high percentage of deterioration of architectural structures.

2. The service life is calculated in tens of years , subject to the technology recommended by the manufacturer and the use of quality materials. Metal siding coatings are not afraid of harsh UV rays, they perfectly hold dynamic and static loads. Modern topcoats have little scratching.

3. Ease of care . Dust does not accumulate on ideally smooth surfaces, due to this, the development of mosses is inhibited. The siding is washed with ordinary water from a garden hose or a soft brush.
4. Manufacturability . Installation can be done independently; there is no need to buy special tools and devices for work.

5. Low price . The estimated cost of finishing work using metal siding is one of the lowest among all existing options.

All types of metal siding differ by these advantages, but the option "under the stone" has one significant drawback - it is not much like natural stone. Why?

The main difference between the stone is volumetric texture . Metal siding for stone has flat surfaces on which a pattern is applied.

Only people with great imagination can see it as a natural stone. It is very difficult to find such a siding in implementation, and not because it is in great demand among consumers, but quite the opposite. Manufacturers know that this material is bought very rarely and, therefore, almost never produce this type of product. There are many other much more advanced materials that imitate natural stone.

Metal siding under a stone is advisable to use when repairing old buildings and only to protect the basement of the foundation.

Let's consider two examples of work execution: protection of a low-rise basement and finishing of an insulated basement.

What are the criteria for choosing metal siding under a stone

We do not advertise certain manufacturers, but give objective information, confirmed by experienced builders.When choosing a specific brand of siding, pay attention to the following characteristics:

1. Dimensions . Depending on the capabilities of manufacturers, they vary widely. If you are going to sheathe small areas, then you can count the number of panels taking into account its size - there will be no waste at all.

   If the area is large, then the last panel in all cases will have to be cut. One more tip. The thinner the sheet steel, the narrower the panels you buy. With an increase in width, the ability to take loads decreases, and this is a very important indicator when sheathing the basement parts of buildings.

2. Sheet thickness .

   In the implementation there is a metal siding with a panel thickness from 0.4 to 0.55 mm and more. The thicker the sheet, the higher the performance of the material. If the building has an increased risk of damage to the cladding, then buy panels with the maximum thickness of the steel sheet.

3. Zinc coating thickness . The current standards regulate the thickness of the zinc layer within 20-40 microns . A very thin zinc coating reduces the reliability of anti-corrosion protection at times. For ordinary buildings, it is recommended to buy siding with a zinc thickness of approximately 25-30 microns .
4. External decorative coating .

   In addition, it also performs a protective function. Several materials are used as such coatings.

Table 1. Characteristics of different types material.

Pay attention to the storage conditions and packaging of the material. It is not uncommon for irresponsible distributors to damage entire consignments of goods, and then try to sell it to inexperienced consumers.If you notice tears, traces of dirt or mechanical damage on the surface of the package, buy materials elsewhere.

Fortunately, today this is not a problem, the number of offers far exceeds the capabilities of buyers.

As for manufacturers, it is safer to give preference to foreign ones. But even among the domestic companies, there are several very responsible ones, in different regions there are representatives. Siding production is not such a complicated process from a technical point of view, the main thing is that they buy high-quality raw materials and strictly adhere to the developed technologies. For the price, the spread is large, there is no universal advice for all occasions.

Make a decision taking into account the wishes and financial capabilities.

Prices for various types of metal siding for stone

Metal siding for stone

Sheathing of a small old basement - step by step instructions

Such plinths have very old buildings, in width they are much larger than the thickness of the front walls. Due to such architectural features and a long period of operation, structures are destroyed. If they are not protected in a timely manner, then a complex of special construction measures will have to be carried out to restore the bearing capacity of the foundation, and this is very difficult and expensive. Plating the surface with metal siding under a stone will not only lengthen the life of the building, but also improve its appearance.

Plinths with a height of 30-40 cm there is no point in insulating , so we will not describe this operation.

Table 2. What elements are included in the set of metal profiles.

Prices for metal profiles

Profile metal

It is not necessary to buy the entire set of metal profiles and additional elements; for each specific case, you should choose your complete set and the number of elements.

It is necessary to start with the manufacture of the formwork.

If for cladding a house it is possible to make formwork from both wooden slats and metal profiles, then for the basement we recommend using only the second option - operating conditions are too difficult, wooden materials will not withstand for a long time. The condition and durability of the cladding largely depends on the quality of the formwork, we will dwell on this topic in more detail.

Step 1. Remove the plinth dimensions and purchase materials. The area of ​​the frame is small, for its manufacture you can buy the profiles of the cheapest segment or use the segments that remain after the cladding of the facade walls of the building.

For fixing vertical supports, you need to have long dowels of at least 100 mm .

Important . During the manufacture of the frame, always leave a gap between it and the blind area at least three centimeters below. This is necessary to compensate for the winter swelling of the earth. There is no need to close this gap; natural ventilation of the wall cladding will be carried out through it.

Step 2 . At a distance of approx. 40 cm , install the hangers at the top and bottom of the entire plinth. First mark the lines, they should be on the same level. The suspensions are fixed with dowels, we recommend using long ones, in our case the foundation is very old and the outer surfaces have clear signs of destruction.

Long dowels allow fixing the framework to deep, strong concrete layers.

Step 3. Set the vertical ones at the extreme corners of the base rack profiles. The distance from the corner should be such that further on them it was possible to fix the corner elements of the sheathing. Place them strictly vertically in level.

The length of the profiles should be 5-6 cm more than the design height of the frame. Pull the rope between them at the top and bottom, make marks with a water or laser level.

Carefully cut off the protruding parts along the rope.To cut metal profiles, as, by the way, and siding, it is recommended to use metal scissors, an electric jigsaw with a special file, a multifunctional cutter or electric scissors.

You can follow these manufacturer's recommendations, or you can take an example from professionals and cut with an ordinary grinder with an abrasive disc: simple and fast.

Do not be afraid that anti-corrosion protection will be removed in the areas near the cut. First, the width of such areas does not exceed a few millimeters. Secondly, the ends are always closed, precipitation does not fall on them, they will rust for many years. Thirdly, even completely rusted small parts do not affect the strength of the frame.

Anyone who has tried to work with tools recommended by manufacturers knows how inconvenient and time-consuming it is.

In addition, it is impossible to cut a complex profile with most of them, you must first cut with some tools, and then cut individual sections with others. But we only give practical advice, the final decision is always yours.

Step 4. Fasten the profile to the upper ends of the uprights. You can fix it directly to the side surfaces with self-tapping screws or use special connecting fittings.

There is no difference, the profile only accepts a slight vertical load.

Step 5. Mark the level on the frame walls, hit the horizontal line. Fix another long profile along it. You can take any, including the guide.

Step 6. At a distance of about 40-50 cm fix the lintels between two long horizontal profiles. There will be low tides on the lintels.

Once again check the position of the frame, make sure it is sufficient rigidity. If everything is normal, then you can start trimming the side surfaces with metal siding under a stone.

Siding work - step-by-step instructions

Step 1. At the bottom, set the starting profile to which the starting strip will be fixed.

Step 2. Fix the corner strips, they are sold complete with metal siding.

Step 3.

Start the plinth trim. If the length of the base / plinth is longer than the length of the panels, then a connecting profile must be installed.

Practical advice . The blind area in old houses is often inclined, this complicates the process of fixing the first panel a little, it has to be cut at an angle.Take the exact measurements, cut the first panel at the desired angle.

In this case, instead of the start panel, you need to put the G-profile. It is advisable to paint over the cut point or smear it with car oil.

When fixing the panels, the screws are screwed in exactly in the middle of the special holes, do not tighten with great force. If you are working with an electric screwdriver, be sure to adjust the amount of torque. The thickness of the profiles is insignificant, with an increase in the tightening force, the screws will turn and they will have to be installed in a new place, and this is not always possible.

In addition, strong tightening prevents compensation for thermal expansion of the metal.

Step 4. If the finish panel protrudes beyond the top level of the batten, it should also be trimmed. The metal siding will have to be fixed in the new holes. Make them oblong too, install the self-tapping screw in the middle.

Tighten with double caution in these areas. The thin metal of the panel will necessarily bend with little pressure to press in. The screw heads are not a problem, they will hide under the bend of the ebb.

Step 5. Install the ebb.

It is fixed with self-tapping screws with rubber washers, which exclude moisture from entering the skin. The overlap of the ebb is at least ten centimeters, otherwise water may fall under it. If for some reason the olives do not lie in the same horizontal plane, then the overlap should be done in the direction opposite to the water stack. You can use any sealant to ensure tightness. Spread it on a narrow strip at the overlap and fix the elements.

Practical advice . Ebb tides can be screwed not from above, but to the end. To do this, you will have to accurately take their dimensions and order the manufacture of tinsmiths or do it yourself. For fixing use self-tapping screws in the color of the siding. The second side must be fixed to the lathing of the building wall.

If there is a desire, the corners of the ebb can be cut off at an angle 45 ° , remove the burrs and rivet the joint, the joint is coated with sealant from below. This somewhat complicates the plinth plating technology, but improves the appearance.

Video - Installation of metal siding

If you nevertheless opted for cladding a house from natural materials , you can read our article on the topic - Wild stone for the facade, where we told how to choose a high-quality stone, what characteristics it has, as well as the main finishing technologies.

Sheathing of the insulated base

It is recommended to use only durable and water-resistant materials as a basement insulation, the optimal solution is to use extruded polystyrene foam. In terms of physical parameters, it is quite suitable for any cladding, it has special locks that exclude the appearance of cracks.

It is fixed to the foundation with dowels with wide caps. All large gaps between the cut sheets should be sealed with polyurethane foam, after hardening, the excess foam is cut off with a sharp knife. What should you pay attention to?

1. Be sure to leave uncovered air vents , otherwise all wooden flooring structures will be damaged by fungal diseases and mold. To reduce heat losses from the premises of buildings in winter, they are buried; in a warm period, ventilation must work effectively. To protect against rodents entering the underground, metal nets can be used.

2. If the width of the basement is equal to the width of the front walls, then the lathing can be made common in one plane, and different types of materials can be used for cladding. Stone-look metal siding is installed at the bottom of the building.
3. Never forget to leave room for linear expansion compensation.
4. Do not fix the first metal profile close to the blind areas , such structures will be deformed during swelling.
5. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations, purchase basic and additional materials from one company.

   Each of them manufactures products according to their own specifications, often elements of the same purpose are not identical. This can cause problems during finishing work. On the Internet, you can find examples of work in which the lower starting guides are attached to the blind area with dowels. It is a gross mistake, do not repeat it.

Prices for extruded polystyrene foam

Extruded polystyrene foam

Video - Cladding and insulation base / plinth

How to make the plinth trim if the facade walls are made of facing bricks? The installation of the lathing is performed according to the above algorithm, the differences appear only when the ebb is installed.

There are two options for fixing ebb tides: complex and reliable, and simple and unreliable.

1. The hard way . On the front wall, beat off the line of abutment of the low tide. Using a grinder, carefully cut a groove about one centimeter deep. Take your time while working, the line should be as flat as possible.

   Insert the ebb into the cut recess and fix it to the batten. If the slot is flat and not wide, then you can leave it alone. If visual problems are noticeable, then seal the defects with a special putty to match the color of the facade walls.

2. The easy way . The ebb should have a bent edge, which is attached to the wall with dowels.

   Large gaps between the edge and the wall are sealed with sealant. This method will ensure the tightness of the junction for a year or two, in the future it will surely peel off and the water will get under the insulation of the basement. Evaporation from these places is minimal, as a result - accelerated destruction of the foundation.

Which method to choose - decide for yourself.