Metal siding under a bar is one of the types of facing materials that allow you to completely change the appearance of the facade walls. It is used both during the renovation of old buildings and in the construction of new ones. For the price it is considered one of the cheapest ways to finish buildings, in terms of quality it meets the modern requirements of developers.
Metal siding under a bar
Decorating a house with metal siding under a bar
Like every material, siding has not only advantages, but also disadvantages. Let's start with the benefits.
During installation, there is no need to use complex tools and special equipment. Works can be performed by specialists of average qualification.
Mosses and lichens do not grow on the surface of the coatings, they are easily washed from dust with water from a garden hose.
But there are also disadvantages.
The main ones are low mechanical strength and the impossibility of repair in case of mechanical damage. True, the indicators of physical strength largely depend on manufacturers, from which materials they make their products. Pay attention to this when choosing.
Important. In European countries, the thickness of the siding sheet metal can not be less than 0.
6mm, domestic and Chinese companies can make panels from sheet steel with a thickness of only 0.45mm. Hence the very low values of mechanical strength.
Metal siding L-bar
When choosing products, look at the thickness of the zinc layer (it must be at least 40 μm), type and parameters of external coatings. For an easier selection, see the technical data for some exterior coatings.
|Type of external polymer siding coating||Service life subject to manufacturer's recommendations|
|Matt polyester PEMA||15-20 years|
|Glossy polyester PE||10-20 years|
|Plastisol PVC-200||At least 30 years old|
|PVDF PVDF||At least 50 years old|
|Pural PURAL||25-30 years old|
Timber siding, different shades
The operating time depends on the chemical composition and thickness of the coating material, the minimum allowable is at least 25 microns, but practitioners do not advise purchasing such siding for finishing residential buildings, they can only sheathe cheap outbuildings. Nobody wants to repeat the work on finishing the facades every 10-15 years; durable materials must have an outer coating thickness of at least 40 microns.
Siding of the Metal Profile company
Among the numerous manufacturers, inexperienced developers find it difficult to choose the best option. We invite you to familiarize yourself with a short list of the most famous and respectable domestic and import enterprises. This information is not final, but it will give an opportunity to roughly navigate the existing variety of companies.
|Manufacturer's name||Brief characteristics|
|One of the most famous companies in the world from Finland. The products fully meet European quality requirements and are maximally adapted to domestic conditions. Has been working in the metal profile market for over 50 years.|
| Some of the products are made of aluminum sheets, in terms of quality and durability comes first. The disadvantage is the high cost.
Company from America.
| British and Dutch co-production, universal use ... Has a wide range of products, produces a full set of additional elements.
|On the market of construction companies since 1992, has composed of 12 legal entities. One of the most famous domestic companies. The structure has a research department, which allows you to create your own patented technologies and materials.|
| Among the largest domestic companies, it produces widely range of sheet steel products. The production base has the most modern equipment; a system of continuous monitoring of technological operations has been introduced for quality control.
|The largest domestic manufacturer of materials for low-rise and cottage construction ... It has 8 factories and has been operating for over ten years.|
When purchasing siding, you need to buy additional materials.
Pre-count the quantity and range of products. During the installation of siding under the timber you will need:
They are used for beautiful decoration of the corners of the cladding, they can have various linear dimensions;
Basic additional elements for the facade made of metal siding
Dimensions of additional elements
We strongly recommend purchasing basic and additional materials of the same manufacturer and of the same quality. After familiarizing yourself with the types of metal siding, you can proceed to the description of the instructions for its installation.
The technology of wall cladding with metal siding allows not only to significantly improve the appearance of buildings, but also to perform insulation at the same time.
All modern houses should be built taking into account the requirements of the new legislation to ensure regulatory heat losses. It is impossible to achieve such a result only by using traditional building materials; even in the middle zone of our country, the thickness of the walls made of wood should be at least 60 centimeters. Nobody, of course, installs such walls, and heat conservation is achieved through the use of mineral wool or foam insulation. But it is not only legislation that forces developers to take measures to insulate houses. Economic incentives work best.
The high and ever-increasing cost of energy is driving developers to reduce heat losses more efficiently than the most stringent laws. Siding is the final stage of finishing new and overhauled buildings after the installation of heaters.
Ventilation facade scheme with metal siding
Practical advice. When insulating old wooden houses, it is better to use rolled mineral wool rather than pressed. The fact is that the crowns have different diameters, which does not allow the pressed insulation to adhere tightly to the walls.
As a result, a natural draft appears in the gaps, significantly reducing the effectiveness of insulation. Rolled mineral wool copies the surface of the facade walls, adheres tightly to each crown and provides the maximum effect of insulation.
The photo shows varieties of rolled mineral wool for construction work
We will assume that the walls are already insulated, the insulation is closed with a vapor-permeable membrane.
An example of a house wall insulated and closed with vapor barrier
For installation, you will need any tool for cutting metal panels (electric jigsaw, grinder or scissors for metal).
Scissors for metal
Cut off well flat sheets with scissors, and siding under the timber has a bent profile, which complicates the work.
But on the cut, the protective coatings are not lost, as happens after the grinder. Although it is not worth it to be especially upset that several millimeters of the protective layer burned out near the cut. The cut is hidden in the additional elements by about a centimeter, it is not affected by natural precipitation. Until in these places rust becomes noticeable, it will take more than a dozen years.
For cutting metal siding it is best to use a circular electric saw
The dimensions of the panels are removed with a tape measure, the spatial position is controlled by the level.
Individual panels and additional elements are fixed with self-tapping screws or studs approximately 1 cm long. It is more difficult to work with self-tapping screws, it is better to use them to fix the studs.
Step 1. Identifier with nomenclature and count the number of materials. Estimate the total length of the outer and inner corners, the number of starting profiles.
If you have to dock the panels, you need to purchase docking strips.
For finishing window and door openings you will need slopes to fix the hardware.
Perimeter strips for siding
Next, you need to focus on the option of making the lathing, and it can be:
Disadvantages - relatively high cost. In addition, siding is attached to them only with self-tapping screws, which is much more difficult than ordinary studs;
In addition, the facade wall trimmed with insulation does not allow much moisture to pass through. And the last thing. If you are very afraid of putrefactive processes, then saturate the wooden planks with any antiseptics - quickly, cheaply and effectively. We recommend using lumber for the manufacture of lathing, but the final choice is yours.
Diagram of the arrangement of wooden battens for siding
Check the position of the insulation battens, it's not too late to fix the mistakes. To check it is better to use an ordinary plumb line, this is the simplest and most accurate tool. If not, then check the level.If everything is okay, great. Now you can check how the old lathing is installed on the plane of the wall.
Pull the rope between the outermost slats.
Tightened rope to control the position of the battens, example
If there are uneven gaps between it and the surfaces of the battens, then during installation of the counter battens will have to correct the situation. To do this, prepare gaskets of various thicknesses, you can also use wooden wedges.
The photo shows shims for the crate for leveling the plane, example
Step 3. Installing the counter grill.
Siding and all elements will be fixed on it. Errors with the installation of the crate cannot be corrected, keep this in mind, carefully consider the work.
The panels have mounting slots along their entire length, which greatly facilitates the fixing process.
Fastening the counter-batten rail
As a result, the contact pressure is weakened and the wedges can fall out.
Counter bars are installed. Everything is ready for the installation of siding
Of the total loss of time for finishing facade walls with metal siding under a bar, the time for arranging the lathing takes at least 25%. But the lost time comes back for the quick installation of the panels, they all fit correctly, you can fix it after the very first fitting.
Step 4. Install the corner planks on the facade walls. Special strips are attached near the doorways; they hide the places of siding cuts.
Check the vertical position at all times. You can trim windows later as needed.
An example of installing a subsystem without insulation. Racks are fixed with hangers
Tightened thread for checking the sheathing plane
Battens around the window
Step 5. Mark the lower horizontal starting point profile.
Check horizontality very carefully. As a rule, the starting profile is mounted immediately above the basement of the house.Please note that these profiles must be located in one horizontal line around the entire perimeter of the facade walls. The protruding ends of the slats must be cut off along the line broken off by a stretched rope with blue.
Screw on the horizontal starter strip, level and fix to the battens. Check the position again.
Step 7. Start installing the siding.
Correct transportation of metal siding
Unloading and storage.
The work is carried out together
Check the batch number, quantity and quality of the delivered material using the invoice
Hook the bottom bend onto the starting profile , lift it all the way and lean it against the wooden slats. Using the special holes on the siding, attach the element with small studs. Assemble the trim in the same way before the beginning of the window opening. If the length of the wall is longer than the length of the siding, use a docking bar to connect. It is fixed before the sheathing starts at a distance equal to the length of the siding.
Installation of horizontal panels
Practical advice. If you have experience in cutting panels, then you can cut several pieces at once with a grinder or an electric jigsaw, if there is no practice, then it is better for the first time to adjust each element in size separately.
Step 8. Install slopes and ebb tides on the windows. They are implemented together with siding, they are adjusted in size on the spot, do not forget to make a slope for the ebb.
It is advisable to seal the cracks in the joints with a high-quality sealant. Only necessarily of high quality, the bad one will peel off a little over time and all the water from the low tide will fall under the finish. Instead of benefit, you get harm.
Blank for low tide
Installed low tide
Blank for upper slope
Blank for side slope
Installation of aquilon - lock for fixing slopes
Setting the upper slope
Setting the side slopes
Insert the fixing in the middle of the existing technological holes of the panels, do not tighten too much. Individual elements should be able to move slightly during thermal expansions.
For the same purpose, leave a gap of several millimeters between the additional elements and the ends of the panels.
Siding panel set
Fitting metal siding around windows
Continue cladding the rest of the facade walls using the same procedure.
The process of installing metal siding
Do not forget to leave holes for ventilation of the space between the insulation and the metal panels. Otherwise, condensation will accumulate on the back of them, which will negatively affect all wooden structures.To ensure ventilation, do not cover the lower and upper slots on the walls with honey crate and insulation.
View of the house after completion of installation
When completing the siding installation strips on vertical surfaces, an internal corner was used. Such situations happen when there are various architectural elements above the entrance group that require cladding. The last panel is not attached, but simply inserted. In winter, during strong winds, the installed structures can simply be torn off from the shallow installation groove. In these places, it is better to use wide profiles or trims, which allow the last panels to be firmly fixed.
If you really want to use the inner corners, then you need to make holes in the last panel, slightly raise the bar to access the screws and attach the elements to the crate at an angle. This fastening will prevent the panel from coming off. But keep in mind that during fastening according to the second option, the caps of the self-tapping screws will be visible, select them from stainless alloys.
To improve the appearance of facades, corners, connecting strips, slopes and ebbs are often used, and the siding itself under a light beam. As you know, a dark color absorbs more solar energy, the consequence is that it heats up more and expands more.
Dark slopes and lighter siding
If the elements are tightened too much during fastening, then a slight warping will inevitably appear, the corners will become wavy. This is very noticeable on a white background. When using additional elements of dark colors, be sure to provide for them the opportunity to move a little, carefully monitor the fastening force. It is better to let them have a slight wobble than to be strongly pinched. Swaying is completely imperceptible and does not reveal itself in any way during the operation of the building.
Check the correct fastening during installation.
Attaching the panels and the corner
Once the corners are set, try pulling them up and down, they should move. If not, look for places where you are held. And the last thing. Never forget to fasten the hardware in the middle of the longitudinal cuts, the metal should be able not only to increase in size in summer, but also to decrease in winter.
Fastening the siding panel and connector
The long outer and inner corners are butt-mounted. This is wrong, the craftsmen do not have sufficient experience in performing such work. For the correct connection of the two corners along the length, they are slightly cut, a special tongue is made and then the elements fit into each other. Carefully read the manufacturer's installation instructions, most of them give detailed descriptions of the connection methods. Correct connection not only looks beautiful, but also allows the two parts to move and thus compensate for changes in linear parameters.
Using the same algorithm, you need to connect the docking strips.
In case of incorrect markings or carelessness during installation, there are cases when panels connected in a vertical docking profile , are not located on the same line, the discrepancy can reach a centimeter. This is a big marriage that is almost impossible to eliminate. The installation of metal panels is in many ways similar to the installation of plastic ones. But there is one significant difference.
If the plastic ones have landing grooves, due to which you can gradually align the position of the elements, then this cannot be done with metal ones. They are more dependent on the correct markings and the position of the first row. This is due to the fundamental difference between the locks between the individual panels. To minimize the chance of errors, sheathe walls in rows rather than short sections of trimmed siding.
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