Stone-like metal siding is one of the many types of finishing materials. Finishing the facade of buildings with natural stone is a very beautiful, durable and prestigious method, but due to the high cost of materials, not all developers are available. Modern technologies have allowed manufacturers to produce various materials that imitate natural stone. At the price, they suit most consumers, and in terms of their performance, they are not much inferior to natural ones.
Metal siding under a stone
An example of siding with imitation stone
Metal siding panel imitates masonry
Allows finishing of buildings without the need to reinforce foundations. There is an opportunity to overhaul old buildings with a high percentage of deterioration of architectural structures.
Basement metal siding
All types of metal siding differ with these advantages, but the option "under the stone" has one significant drawback - it has little resemblance to natural stone. Why?
The main difference between the stone is its volumetric texture. Metal siding for stone has flat surfaces on which a pattern is applied.
Only people with great imagination can see it as a natural stone. It is very difficult to find such a siding in implementation, and not because it is in great demand among consumers, but quite the opposite. Manufacturers know that this material is bought very rarely and, therefore, almost never produce this type of product. There are many other much more advanced materials that imitate natural stone.
Metal siding "Vertical"
Photo of vertical metal siding with imitation of stone
It is advisable to use metal siding under a stone during the repair of old buildings and only to protect the basement of the foundation.
Let's consider two examples of work execution: protection of a low-rise basement and finishing of an insulated basement.
In the photo of a siding panel with different prints
We do not advertise certain manufacturers, but give objective information, confirmed by experienced builders. When choosing a specific brand of siding, pay attention to the following characteristics:
If the area is large, then the last panel in all cases will have to be cut. One more tip. The thinner the sheet steel, the narrower the panels you buy. With an increase in width, the ability to take loads decreases, and this is a very important indicator when covering the basement parts of buildings;
4 to 0.55 mm or more. The thicker the sheet, the higher the performance of the material. If the building has an increased risk of damage to the cladding, then buy panels with the maximum thickness of the steel sheet;
A very thin zinc coating reduces the reliability of anti-corrosion protection at times. For ordinary buildings, it is recommended to buy siding with a zinc thickness of about 25-30 microns;
Fine Stone Siding
External decorative coating.
|The cheapest, coating thickness from different manufacturers within 25-25 microns. In terms of quality, it is not quite suitable for finishing facade walls, especially basement parts.|
| The thickness can reach 200 microns, which allows you to create structured surfaces like natural stone. But the embossed texture is more exposed to pollution.
In addition, plastisol reacts negatively to exposure to harsh ultraviolet rays. You can buy it if the buildings are located in shaded areas.
| One of the most modern coatings, in terms of performance it takes leading position. Thickness approx. 50 microns.
The disadvantage is the high cost.
|The coating is made on the basis of polyvinyl difluoride and acrylic, has a unique feature self-tightening micro-scratches. An excellent option for facades. The disadvantage is that such metal siding is not affordable for all consumers.|
Color card of TM Grand Line coatings
Pay attention to the storage conditions and packaging of the material .
.. It is not uncommon for irresponsible distributors to damage entire consignments of goods, and then try to sell it to inexperienced consumers. If you notice tears, traces of dirt or mechanical damage on the surface of the package, buy materials elsewhere. Fortunately, today this is not a problem, the number of offers far exceeds the capabilities of buyers.
As for manufacturers, it is safer to give preference to foreign ones. But even among the domestic companies, there are several very responsible ones, in different regions there are representatives. Siding production is not such a complicated process from a technical point of view, the main thing is that they buy high-quality raw materials and strictly adhere to the developed technologies. For the price, the spread is large, there is no universal advice for all occasions. Make a decision taking into account the wishes and financial capabilities.
Such plinths have very old buildings, in width they (plinths) are much larger than the thickness of the facade walls. Due to such architectural features and a long period of operation, structures are destroyed. If they are not protected in a timely manner, then a complex of special construction measures will have to be carried out to restore the bearing capacity of the foundation, and this is very difficult and expensive.
Base before renovation
Surface cladding with metal siding under a stone will not only lengthen the life of the building, but also improve its appearance. There is no point in insulating plinths with a height of 30-40 cm, so we will not describe this operation.
You need to start with making the lathing. If for cladding a house it is possible to make formwork from both wooden slats and metal profiles, then for the basement we recommend using only the second option - operating conditions are too difficult, wooden materials will not withstand for a long time. The condition and durability of the cladding largely depends on the quality of the formwork, we will dwell on this topic in more detail.
Step 1. Remove the plinth dimensions and purchase materials.
The area of the frame is small, for its manufacture you can buy the profiles of the cheapest segment or use the segments that remain after the cladding of the facade walls of the building. To fix vertical supports, you need to have long dowels with a size of at least 100 mm.
U-shaped profiles are used for the metal frame
Important. During the manufacture of the frame, always leave a gap between it and the blind area at least three centimeters below. This is necessary to compensate for the winter swelling of the earth.
There is no need to close this gap; natural ventilation of the wall cladding will be carried out through it.
The set of metal profiles includes the following items.
|Name||Brief description and purpose|
Rack profiles (PP or CD)
| The most demanded elements bear the main load. Length 2.5-4.
0 m, width 60 mm, shelves 2.7-2.8 cm high.
| The metal siding is directly fixed to these. When creating structures that are small in area and weight, they can be used as rack-mountable ones.
Wall thickness ≈0.50 mm, width 2.7 cm, shelf height 2.8 cm, length ≈3 m.
|Profiles for partitions|| It makes sense to purchase if there are windows on the base, you can save more expensive profiles.
Shelf height 3.7-4.0 cm, width 4-15 cm.
|Allow to interconnect the same profiles at different levels, are used during the creation of a complex frame on plinths with various protruding architectural elements.|
| They greatly simplify and speed up the process of assembling the frame, connect cut pieces of the profile into a single structure at one level.
To increase the strength of the connection, self-tapping screws can be additionally installed.
| Serve for fixing and aligning the position of the bearing rack profiles ... They greatly speed up the work, allow you to accurately align the crate vertically and horizontally.
|Are used in cases when due to various reasons for direct suspensions not enough length: too uneven surface of the basement, the need to remove the plating from the foundation as much as possible due to the presence of various engineering systems, etc.|
It is not necessary to buy the entire set of metal profiles and additional elements, for each specific case, you should choose your complete set and the number of elements.
Step 2. At a distance of about 40 cm, install the hangers at the top and bottom of the entire plinth. First mark the lines, they should be on the same level.
The suspensions are fixed with dowels, we recommend using long ones, in our case the foundation is very old and the outer surfaces have clear signs of destruction. Long dowels allow fixing the framework to deep, strong concrete layers.
The principle of fastening the lathing guides to straight hangers
The profiles should be placed in three rows: top, bottom and middle
Step 3. Set vertical rack profiles at the outer corners of the base / plinth. The distance from the corner should be such that further on them it was possible to fix the corner elements of the sheathing.
Place them strictly vertically in level. The length of the profiles should be 5-6 cm more than the design height of the frame.Pull the rope between them at the top and bottom, make marks with a water or laser level. Carefully cut off the protruding parts along the rope.
To cut metal profiles, as, by the way, and siding, it is recommended to use metal scissors, an electric jigsaw with a special file, a multifunctional cutter or electric cutter.
Carrier profile and scissors for metal
You can follow these manufacturers recommendations, or you can follow the example of professionals and cut with a conventional grinder with an abrasive disc : simple and fast. Do not be afraid that anti-corrosion protection will be removed in the areas near the cut.
An example of a profile cut by a grinder
Anyone who has tried to work with tools recommended by manufacturers knows how inconvenient and long it is ... In addition, it is impossible to cut a complex profile with most of them, you must first cut with some tools, and then cut individual sections with others. But we only give practical advice, the final decision is always yours.
Step 4. Attach the profile to the upper ends of the vertical posts. You can fix it directly to the side surfaces with self-tapping screws or use special connecting fittings. There is no difference, the profile only accepts a slight vertical load.
Mark the level on the wall frame, beat off the horizontal line. Fix another long profile along it. You can take any, including the guide.
Step 6. At a distance of about 40-50 cm, fix the jumpers between the two long horizontal profiles.
There will be low tides on the lintels.
Frame for siding
Profiles are fixed with suspensions
Check the position of the frame again to make sure it is sufficiently rigid. If everything is normal, then you can start trimming the side surfaces with metal siding under a stone.
Determining the starting point of installation
Step 1. Install the starting profile at the bottom, to which the starting strip will be fixed.
Setting the starting profile
Step 2. Fasten the corner strips, they come with metal siding.
Setting the outside or inside corner
Step 3. Start the plinth trim. If the length of the base / plinth is longer than the length of the panels, then a connecting profile must be installed.
Connecting siding panels horizontally
Practical advice. The blind area in old houses is often inclined, this complicates the process of fixing the first panel a little, it has to be cut at an angle. Take the exact measurements, cut the first panel at the desired angle. In this case, instead of the start panel, you need to put the G-profile. It is advisable to paint over the cut point or smear it with car oil.
When fixing the panels, the screws are screwed in strictly in the middle of the special holes, do not tighten with great force. If you are working with an electric screwdriver, be sure to adjust the amount of torque. The thickness of the profiles is insignificant, with an increase in the tightening force, the screws will turn and they will have to be installed in a new place, and this is not always possible. In addition, strong tightening prevents compensation for thermal expansion of the metal.
Rules for installing siding panels
If the finish panel protrudes beyond the upper level of the crate, then it should also be trimmed. The metal siding will have to be fixed in the new holes. Make them oblong too, install the self-tapping screw in the middle. Tighten with double caution in these areas. The thin metal of the panel will necessarily bend with little pressure to press in.
The screw heads are not a problem, they will hide under the bend of the ebb.
Step 5. Install the ebb. It is fixed with self-tapping screws with rubber washers, which exclude moisture from entering the skin. The overlap of the ebb is at least ten centimeters, otherwise water may fall under it.
If for some reason the olives do not lie in the same horizontal plane, then the overlap should be done in the direction opposite to the water stack. You can use any sealant to ensure tightness. Spread a narrow strip at the overlap and fix the elements.
Practical advice. Ebb tides can be screwed not from above, but to the end.
To do this, you will have to accurately take their dimensions and order the manufacture of tinsmiths or do it yourself. For fixing use self-tapping screws in the color of the siding. The second side must be fixed to the lathing of the building wall.
Outside ebb angle
If desired, ebb corners can be cut off at an angle of 45 °, deburred and rivet the joint, from below the joint is coated with sealant. This somewhat complicates the plinth plating technology, but improves the appearance.
Fixed starting profile, corner, siding panels and ebb
Fixed low tide in the corner
It is recommended to use only durable and waterproof materials as a basement insulation, the best solution is to use extruded polystyrene foam or basalt mineral wool.In terms of physical parameters, these heaters are quite suitable for any cladding.
Installation of the frame for insulation
Installation of thermal insulation
Installation of counter-grill, second layer of thermal insulation and windproof membrane
Installation of suspension
Fixing the profile for siding
Installation of the starter strip and connecting profile
Attaching siding panels
What should you pay attention to?
Air outlet grille
Common battening for base / plinth and walls, attachment of the starting strip
Leave gaps for thermal expansion
It is impossible to mount the racks close to the soil
Each of them manufactures products according to their own specifications, often elements of the same purpose are not identical. This can cause problems during finishing work.
How to make the plinth plating if the front walls are made of facing bricks? The lathing is installed according to the above algorithm, the differences appear only when the ebb is installed.
There are two options for fixing ebb tides: complex and reliable, and simple and unreliable.
Insert the ebb into the cut recess and fix it to the batten. If the slot is flat and not wide, then you can leave it alone. If visual problems are noticeable, then seal the defects with a special putty to match the color of the facade walls.
Large gaps between the edge and the wall are sealed with sealant.This method will ensure the tightness of the junction within a year or two, in the future it will surely peel off and the water will get under the insulation of the basement. Evaporation from these places is minimal, as a result - accelerated destruction of the foundation.
The photo shows a fixed ebb and sealed joints
An example of fastening a galvanized ebb to the wall brick
Which method to choose - decide for yourself.
Posted By: Work Style |10, Nov 2020
Posted By: Work Style |01, Nov 2020
Posted By: Work Style |11, Nov 2020
Posted By: Work Style |08, Nov 2020
Posted By: Work Style |10, Nov 2020