Metal siding "under the timber" + photo + video + installation instructions

Metal siding is a panel made of galvanized steel profile, covered with a layer of polymer that imitates wood, stone or other texture in appearance. This type of siding is actively used when decorating the facades of various buildings. The panel elements are fastened to each other due to the presence of "locks" and the fastening perforated edge.

Metal siding

Facade finished with metal siding "like a bar"

Varieties of panels and siding strips components

The main siding panels are of the following types:

Metal soffit. Mainly used for roof sheathing. It can be either solid or perforated to provide better roof ventilation.	Metal soffit
Wall metal siding. There are three subtypes: Herringbone Double herringbone Ship bar	Wall metal siding
Straight metal siding. These panels are used exclusively for vertical mounting.	Straight metal siding
Beam-like metal siding ". This type of siding outwardly imitates a round log and is similar to a block house type of wood paneling.	Metal siding "under the timber"

To auxiliary accessories siding strips include:

J-Trim Universal auxiliary profile. It is used for fixing panels in a vertical plane, along the perimeter of door and window openings, finishing the upper part of gables, joints of walls with a cornice, and also, in some cases, building corners.	J-Trim bar
Starting bar Installed along the perimeter of the walls at the bottom of them. Serves for fixing the first row of main metal siding panels. Upon completion of the work, it is hidden under the first row of siding.	Starting bar
Finishing bar Anchors the trimmed last siding panel to the top of the wall. It is also used for finishing doors and windows, fixing the edge of the profile.	Finishing strip
Connecting strip The main task of the connecting strip is to ensure the tightness of the joints of the siding profile in the horizontal direction and, if necessary, to increase its length.	Connecting strip
Corner strip Covers the edges of metal siding panels in the corners of the house. A separate type of plank is used for finishing the outer and inner corners. The corner strip can also be replaced with two bonded J-trims.	Corner ledge (outer corner) Corner strip (inner corner)

Design features of the finishing material

In fact, the shape of the metal siding and is its main structural difference. A profile that allows you to simulate the wall of a log house is made in almost the same way as the rest of its varieties.

Metal siding

The structure of metal siding

The basis of the siding is a stamped steel strip, which is rounded using a press.
The thickness of the metal is usually on the order of 0.4-0. 7 millimeters.
A protective layer of zinc is applied over the base, which is additionally primed and passivated. This allows for more reliable adhesion of layers and additional protection against corrosion.
The galvanized and treated surface is covered with a polymer decorative layer, which also provides additional protection for the metal. Most often, polyester, polyurethane, pural and plastisol are used in the production of siding.
Sometimes, most often on expensive high-quality models of siding profile, you can find an additional protective layer of transparent varnish.

Advantages of siding "under a bar"

A metal profile that externally imitates a wooden finish - this is a good alternative to both wood and plastic finishing materials. In comparison with clapboard, block house, plastic siding and PVC panels, steel siding boasts an impressive list of advantages:

Resistant to sudden changes in temperature conditions, has significant resistance to thermal deformation.
This has a positive effect on the reliability of the facade structure and its durability.
Thanks to the metal base, the "under the bar" siding can effectively serve up to half a century, while maintaining its functional characteristics and attractive appearance.
Fire resistance. The metal is reliable and fireproof. Profiled siding in this parameter surpasses wood and plastic materials several times.
Resistant to corrosion. Multi-layer coating with protective materials reliably protects the metal from rust and destruction.
Siding "under a bar" due to its rounded shape does not retain moisture on its surface. This has a positive effect on the safety and durability of the material.
The lightness and simplicity of the panel design allows you to carry out installation work without much effort yourself.
The price of metal siding is significantly lower than wood finishing materials, and the service life is longer. In terms of cost, only PVC plastic sheathing can compete with this type of finish.

Prices for metal block house

~~Metal block house~~

Installation of metal siding " under the bar "

The process of installing siding" under the bar "is inherently quite simple, but it has its own nuances and features, which we will consider further. For work, we need additional fasteners, some of which you can see in the photo below. Installation can be carried out both on a wooden and metal frame.

The specifics of the work in both cases will differ, so we will analyze both options in detail and separately.

Never install the metal siding directly on the wall! This will greatly contribute to the deterioration of ventilation and the development of fungal formations.

Metal siding

Basic and additional siding elements

Tools required for installation

To finish the facade with siding "under the bar" we need the following tools:

Hammer
Hacksaw for metal (with small teeth)
Chalk
Construction tape
Water or laser level
Safety glasses (optional)

Prices for laser level

~~Laser level~~

In addition, it is advisable to have an electric saw on hand, as this will greatly speed up the process of cutting and fitting the siding panels.

From a special tool, we can also come in handy:

Punch
Used to pierce the so-called "ears" at the ends of the metal siding. They facilitate installation of panels under window openings or on final tiers in the upper part of the wall.

Metal siding

Punch

Allows you to expand the mounting nail holes on siding panels. This is useful when performing finishing work in areas with a changeable climate. The wider openings give the siding extra room for thermal expansion and contraction without the risk of damaging the panels.

Metal siding

Perforator

Special tool for dismantling siding
Allows you to carefully remove the panels when it becomes necessary to replace them or correct the level.

Metal siding

Special demolition tool

Preparing the walls for installation of the battens

Before starting the actual installation work, we need to first prepare the walls of the house.

This process is performed according to the following algorithm:

We dismantle all the elements protruding above the wall surface: door and window frames, etc. etc.
We clean the walls from dirt, remove the damaged and exfoliated parts of the exterior finish.
In order to avoid the formation of mold under the surface of the siding, we treat the walls with an antiseptic.
We make a preliminary marking of the walls for the future lathing.
The pitch of the lathing for metal siding should vary between 30-40 centimeters.Use yarn, level and plumb lines to make your markings accurately.

Note. In case the house is located in an area with difficult weather conditions, involving constant exposure to strong winds, it is recommended to reduce the pitch of the sheathing to 20 centimeters.

Creating a wooden lathing

The process of creating a frame made of wood is the simplest and therefore it is better to use it when performing an independent installation of facade finishing.

For the lathing, any wood material with a moisture content of no more than 15% is suitable for us. It is better not to use raw bars, since when they dry, the frame may deform with subsequent damage to the siding profile. Before starting work, be sure to treat the tree with the same antiseptic that was used at the stage of preparing the walls.

Metal siding

Wooden crate of the building

Cut the beams according to the dimensions of the wall. Since a flat surface is needed to install the siding, it is undesirable to use the joining of the beams.
According to the markings, we mount the brackets with dowels on the wall. On the brackets we level the bars and fix them with screws.
In a situation where the insulation of the facade is not planned in the future, you can do without installing brackets. Instead, we will use wooden mounting wedges to level the beams along the plane.

Prices for various types of bars

~~Bar~~

Creation of a frame from a metal profile

In the process of fastening the metal lathing for the subsequent installation of siding "under the timber", we will use a U-shaped profile with a folded edge, three meters long and a section of 27 by 60 millimeters.

It is fixed to the wall using special brackets - perforated hangers made of stainless steel.

Metal siding

Bracket for mounting the battens

Attention! It is impossible to use a metal profile of other sections (5x5 or 4x4 cm) without a bent edge, since it does not have the strength necessary for the installation of siding panels.

According to the marking, we drill holes in the wall for dowels and fix the brackets.
Let's start installing the profile. This process must be started simultaneously from both ends of the wall.
Thus, we will get reference points, which we will further rely on when aligning the plane of the entire frame.

Metal siding

Mounting the battens on the brackets

Note. Between the wall and the suspension, it is advisable to place a spacer made of paronite or an equivalent insulating material. This step will prevent the emergence of a "cold bridge" and will contribute to better thermal insulation.

After leveling and securing the two extreme profiles with self-tapping screws, we pull a thread between them, along which we will carry out further installation.
When installing the profiles, we additionally fix them to each other with jumpers made of scraps.This will increase the rigidity of the structure.
Upon completion of the work, we check the quality of the resulting plane using a laser or water-type level for this.

Metal siding

Metal battens

Securing the siding panels

Installation of metal siding "under the timber" on both metal and wooden frames will be carried out in four stages:

Securing the initial (starting) strip
Installation of corner strips and H-connectors
Fastening metal siding panels
Fixing the last row of panels and installing the finishing strip

Important! When carrying out installation work with siding panels, check the quality of the installation by level every two to three rows.

Securing the initial (starting) bar
To attachment the starting bar must be approached very carefully. Of course, it will be closed on top of itself with subsequent rows of panels and there are no special requirements for its appearance (you can even use trims). However, it is necessary to set the initial level in terms of the level very accurately: the minimum distortion will spoil the appearance of the entire finish, and it can be very difficult to fix it.
At the corner of the building we screw in a self-tapping screw or hammer in a nail. We cling to it with a nylon thread, stretching it parallel to the wall surface. At the opposite corner, we fasten the end of the thread with a second nail and level it with respect to the ground. Note. The height of the thread above the ground should be equal to the width of the starting bar.	Installation of the marking thread
Mark the installation line on the crate with a marker or chalk our bar.	We markup
We fix the starting bar with self-tapping screws	Securing the starting strip
Installing corner strips and H-connectors
Corner and H-shaped profiles will serve us as guides along which we will wind and fix the main metal siding panels. Installation of connecting and corner strips is similar, and when performing it, you should adhere to a few simple rules:
The strip should hang above the ground, not reaching it by about 0. 5-0. 7 centimeters. Such a gap will prevent deformation of the structure in the case when the material expands under the influence of temperature and the profile rests against the foundation.	Correct position of the bar
The bar must be fastened from top to bottom. We twist the first self-tapping screw exactly in the upper part of the nail hole, so that the profile seems to hang on it. This makes it possible to direct the deformation vector during expansion and contraction of the metal strictly downward and sideways. The rest of the fasteners are placed strictly in the center of the holes.	Securing the vertical strip
At the very bottom, the corner strip is cut to the width initial profile.This technique also helps to protect the structure from the negative effects of thermal expansion of the metal.	Adjusting the corner strip at the bottom
Obtuse and sharp corners of the house can be finished quite easily due to the flexibility of the metal siding. To do this, it is enough to properly squeeze the corner strip or press it down.	Finishing obtuse and sharp corners
When installing the H-profile, it is necessary remember that at the bottom of the wall, the starter bar should be adjacent to it, and not vice versa. However, it is often possible to do without this type of profile altogether by fixing the main panels overlapping each other.	Correct setting of the H-profile
Fastening of metal siding panels
We put the strip of the first row of siding inside the grooves of the corresponding angular or H-shaped profile and snap into the lock with the starting bar. Remember to cut the siding panels to allow for thermal expansion of the metal.	Installation of siding panels
We fasten the panel to the previously prepared crate frame strictly in the center of the nail holes. We twist it not tightly so that the material has the opportunity to calmly expand when heated. Subsequent rows (except for the final one) are mounted in the same way: we put it into the grooves of the corner and connecting H-profile, snap the new panel into the "lock" with the previous one and screw it to the frame with self-tapping screws.	Installation of the main siding panels
Fixation the last row of panels and installation of the finishing strip
Having reached the top edge of the wall, mount the finishing strip. Having measured the distance from the lock of the last tier to this plank, bend or cut the panel of the last tier so that it matches the given width and snap into the lock.	Setting the finishing bar