Metal siding is a panel made of galvanized steel profile, covered with a layer of polymer that imitates wood, stone or other texture in appearance. This type of siding is actively used when decorating the facades of various buildings. The panel elements are fastened to each other due to the presence of "locks" and the fastening perforated edge.
Facade finished with metal siding "like a bar"
The main siding panels are of the following types:
Metal soffit. Mainly used for roof sheathing. It can be either solid or perforated to provide better roof ventilation. |
Metal soffit |
Wall metal siding. There are three subtypes:
| Wall metal siding |
Straight metal siding. These panels are used exclusively for vertical mounting. |
Straight metal siding |
Beam-like metal siding ". This type of siding outwardly imitates a round log and is similar to a block house type of wood paneling. |
Metal siding "under the timber" |
To auxiliary accessories siding strips include:
J-Trim Universal auxiliary profile. It is used for fixing panels in a vertical plane, along the perimeter of door and window openings, finishing the upper part of gables, joints of walls with a cornice, and also, in some cases, building corners. |
J-Trim bar |
Starting bar Installed along the perimeter of the walls at the bottom of them. Serves for fixing the first row of main metal siding panels. Upon completion of the work, it is hidden under the first row of siding. |
Starting bar |
Finishing bar Anchors the trimmed last siding panel to the top of the wall. It is also used for finishing doors and windows, fixing the edge of the profile. |
Finishing strip |
Connecting strip The main task of the connecting strip is to ensure the tightness of the joints of the siding profile in the horizontal direction and, if necessary, to increase its length. |
Connecting strip |
Corner strip Covers the edges of metal siding panels in the corners of the house. A separate type of plank is used for finishing the outer and inner corners. The corner strip can also be replaced with two bonded J-trims. |
Corner ledge (outer corner) Corner strip (inner corner) |
In fact, the shape of the metal siding and is its main structural difference. A profile that allows you to simulate the wall of a log house is made in almost the same way as the rest of its varieties.
The structure of metal siding
The thickness of the metal is usually on the order of 0.4-0. 7 millimeters.
A metal profile that externally imitates a wooden finish - this is a good alternative to both wood and plastic finishing materials. In comparison with clapboard, block house, plastic siding and PVC panels, steel siding boasts an impressive list of advantages:
This has a positive effect on the reliability of the facade structure and its durability.
Metal block house
The process of installing siding" under the bar "is inherently quite simple, but it has its own nuances and features, which we will consider further. For work, we need additional fasteners, some of which you can see in the photo below. Installation can be carried out both on a wooden and metal frame.
The specifics of the work in both cases will differ, so we will analyze both options in detail and separately.
Never install the metal siding directly on the wall! This will greatly contribute to the deterioration of ventilation and the development of fungal formations.
Basic and additional siding elements
To finish the facade with siding "under the bar" we need the following tools:
Laser level
In addition, it is advisable to have an electric saw on hand, as this will greatly speed up the process of cutting and fitting the siding panels.
From a special tool, we can also come in handy:
Punch Used to pierce the so-called "ears" at the ends of the metal siding. They facilitate installation of panels under window openings or on final tiers in the upper part of the wall.
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Punch |
Allows you to expand the mounting nail holes on siding panels. This is useful when performing finishing work in areas with a changeable climate. The wider openings give the siding extra room for thermal expansion and contraction without the risk of damaging the panels. | Perforator |
Special tool for dismantling siding Allows you to carefully remove the panels when it becomes necessary to replace them or correct the level. |
Special demolition tool |
Before starting the actual installation work, we need to first prepare the walls of the house.
This process is performed according to the following algorithm:
The pitch of the lathing for metal siding should vary between 30-40 centimeters.Use yarn, level and plumb lines to make your markings accurately.
Note. In case the house is located in an area with difficult weather conditions, involving constant exposure to strong winds, it is recommended to reduce the pitch of the sheathing to 20 centimeters.
The process of creating a frame made of wood is the simplest and therefore it is better to use it when performing an independent installation of facade finishing.
For the lathing, any wood material with a moisture content of no more than 15% is suitable for us. It is better not to use raw bars, since when they dry, the frame may deform with subsequent damage to the siding profile. Before starting work, be sure to treat the tree with the same antiseptic that was used at the stage of preparing the walls.
Wooden crate of the building
Bar
In the process of fastening the metal lathing for the subsequent installation of siding "under the timber", we will use a U-shaped profile with a folded edge, three meters long and a section of 27 by 60 millimeters.
It is fixed to the wall using special brackets - perforated hangers made of stainless steel.
Bracket for mounting the battens
Attention! It is impossible to use a metal profile of other sections (5x5 or 4x4 cm) without a bent edge, since it does not have the strength necessary for the installation of siding panels.
Thus, we will get reference points, which we will further rely on when aligning the plane of the entire frame.
Mounting the battens on the brackets
Note. Between the wall and the suspension, it is advisable to place a spacer made of paronite or an equivalent insulating material. This step will prevent the emergence of a "cold bridge" and will contribute to better thermal insulation.
Metal battens
Installation of metal siding "under the timber" on both metal and wooden frames will be carried out in four stages:
Important! When carrying out installation work with siding panels, check the quality of the installation by level every two to three rows.
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To attachment the starting bar must be approached very carefully. Of course, it will be closed on top of itself with subsequent rows of panels and there are no special requirements for its appearance (you can even use trims). However, it is necessary to set the initial level in terms of the level very accurately: the minimum distortion will spoil the appearance of the entire finish, and it can be very difficult to fix it. | |
At the corner of the building we screw in a self-tapping screw or hammer in a nail. We cling to it with a nylon thread, stretching it parallel to the wall surface. At the opposite corner, we fasten the end of the thread with a second nail and level it with respect to the ground. |
Installation of the marking thread |
Mark the installation line on the crate with a marker or chalk our bar. |
We markup |
We fix the starting bar with self-tapping screws | Securing the starting strip |
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Corner and H-shaped profiles will serve us as guides along which we will wind and fix the main metal siding panels. Installation of connecting and corner strips is similar, and when performing it, you should adhere to a few simple rules: | |
The strip should hang above the ground, not reaching it by about 0. 5-0. 7 centimeters. Such a gap will prevent deformation of the structure in the case when the material expands under the influence of temperature and the profile rests against the foundation. |
Correct position of the bar |
The bar must be fastened from top to bottom. We twist the first self-tapping screw exactly in the upper part of the nail hole, so that the profile seems to hang on it. This makes it possible to direct the deformation vector during expansion and contraction of the metal strictly downward and sideways. The rest of the fasteners are placed strictly in the center of the holes. |
Securing the vertical strip |
At the very bottom, the corner strip is cut to the width initial profile.This technique also helps to protect the structure from the negative effects of thermal expansion of the metal. |
Adjusting the corner strip at the bottom |
Obtuse and sharp corners of the house can be finished quite easily due to the flexibility of the metal siding. To do this, it is enough to properly squeeze the corner strip or press it down. |
Finishing obtuse and sharp corners |
When installing the H-profile, it is necessary remember that at the bottom of the wall, the starter bar should be adjacent to it, and not vice versa. However, it is often possible to do without this type of profile altogether by fixing the main panels overlapping each other. |
Correct setting of the H-profile |
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We put the strip of the first row of siding inside the grooves of the corresponding angular or H-shaped profile and snap into the lock with the starting bar. Remember to cut the siding panels to allow for thermal expansion of the metal.
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Installation of siding panels |
We fasten the panel to the previously prepared crate frame strictly in the center of the nail holes. We twist it not tightly so that the material has the opportunity to calmly expand when heated. Subsequent rows (except for the final one) are mounted in the same way: we put it into the grooves of the corner and connecting H-profile, snap the new panel into the "lock" with the previous one and screw it to the frame with self-tapping screws. |
Installation of the main siding panels |
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Having reached the top edge of the wall, mount the finishing strip. Having measured the distance from the lock of the last tier to this plank, bend or cut the panel of the last tier so that it matches the given width and snap into the lock.
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Setting the finishing bar |
Screwdrivers
You can familiarize yourself with the process of finishing the facade with the help of metal siding "under the bar" by watching the videos below.
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