Natural oils for wood processing - features of choice and properties

Natural oils for wood processing - features of choice and properties Natural oils for wood processing - features of choice and properties

Protecting timber from decay, mold and bugs is the first task for every owner of a log house or wooden house. This question is very important if you will be working with wooden products that will be used outdoors in the future.

DIY home furniture also needs protection from moisture, as well as from other negative factors. The best way is coal oil for wood processing. But it is used only for impregnating sleepers or other objects that are used in harsh conditions.

For independent work, more pleasant and affordable compositions are used.

General information. Wax or oil?

Both of these substances are used to protect wood from mold, moisture, bugs and rot. Both wax and oil have been used for a long time, and they inevitably give excellent results. They will improve the appearance of the wood and increase its service life and strength.

Driving oils for woodworking have high antiseptic properties, penetrate deep into the wood structure and make its surface more elastic. They help keep the wood from drying out, clog pores, and allow surfaces to breathe and regulate moisture levels. Wood oils are harmless to humans and are considered the most environmentally friendly method of wood protection, to the same extent as wax. Of the oils,

which are most often used to impregnate wood with our own hands, we note:

  • Linseed.
  • Tung.

  • Tar.
  • Teak.

Some people prefer to use sunflower oil for impregnating wood, but it gives the worst effect. The reason is the presence of polyunsaturated fatty acids - there are very few of them in sunflower. Waxing is a very old way of protecting wood products from moisture.

The wax will fill the wood pores and give it a matte color. Its only drawback will be the lack of "breath" in the processed tree.

Please note that it is impractical to work with pure wax, and therefore it should be dissolved in vegetable oil, for example, in flaxseed. It also includes other additives (turpentine). This work is quite lengthy.

For this reason, impregnation with oil compounds is the best option for protecting against rot, moisture and mold.

Details

Advantages and disadvantages of oil impregnation

Surface treatment wood with oil compositions has many advantages, and these are:

  1. Environmentally friendly.
  2. Beautiful appearance of finished products - oiled surfaces, after excellent polishing, have a matte sheen, and also become velvety to the touch.
  3. Ease of processing.
  4. Availability of materials.

  5. Relatively low cost.
  6. Rapid renewal of mechanical damage - it is enough to subject pieces of furniture or ceilings / floors / walls to additional processing, then scratches will disappear immediately.

Oil impregnation will be an excellent option for protecting products from exotic or expensive wood species, buildings / houses made of logs (log cabins), furniture items that are exposed to moisture. But there are also disadvantages - the surfaces are very demanding to maintain, and this applies to furniture / floors / walls / ceilings. They should be soaked every 4 months and then polished thoroughly.

Treated surfaces are vulnerable to grease and grease stains are highly visible, and re-treatment will kill them.

Tung oil

Natural oils for wood processing - features of choice and properties Natural oils for wood processing are often used, and tung oil can be impregnated with floorboards, ceilings, wood furniture, platbands and even dishes. During the tsarist reign, such oil was used to decorate especially valuable wood species, from which unique interior items were made. This is due to its unusual ability to quickly penetrate into the surface layer of wood, as well as to maximize its texture. Before starting work, it is imperative to mix the oil, and it is worth working at an air temperature of +15 degrees.

If the temperature is lower, then the composition will thicken, and its consumption will increase (the usual consumption per square meter is from 0.1 to 0.15 kg per square meter). The application is done in a thin layer with a brush, and then the oil is allowed to soak (1/3 hour), take a sponge / soft cloth and rub the residues into the wood. The excess should be removed.

To improve absorption, the oil can be diluted 40% with white spirit. The product will be ready for use a day later. All oiled rags should be disposed of as household waste and grease can be washed off with soapy water.

Teak oil

The product is universal, and it can be used for processing internal wooden surfaces (ceiling, floors, railings, decorative items and stairs), as well as outdoor (gazebos, facades, garden furniture, decorative figures). They are ideal for beech, oak, mahogany and other precious woods.

Teak oil is an environmentally friendly product, and it will contain linseed and tung oil, as well as refined pine turpentine. Oil has nothing to do with teak. Such oil should not be diluted, and before starting work, stir it well and shake the jar. Also, the tool has proven itself perfectly in a room with high humidity, because it can handle valuable wood species even in the bathroom.

Tar oil

This is one of the strongest natural antiseptics for independent woodworking.

It contains stump resin, linseed oil and pine turpentine. The latter will improve the penetration of the composition into the wood, linseed oil retains and does not allow it to come to the surface.The composition is actively used to treat the bottom of boats and berths. It is also used for external impregnation of log buildings, garden houses and furniture. The properties of this oil are similar to tung and teak oil.

It will provide excellent protection of the wood surface from rot, moisture and bugs that sharpen the wood, and at the same time give the wood a transparent structure. The technology of work is similar to that of teak and tung oil - for each square meter of the sanded surface, from 0.1 to 0. 15 liters of the product is needed, and for impregnating the log house from 5 to 10 liters per square. The impregnated surface dries up to a week.

The drying time depends on the quality of the wood and the conditions. When applied in one coat, the drying time is 24 hours and no thinning is required and the oil must be thoroughly mixed before use. Store tung, tar and teak oils in a tightly closed container with a lid in a cool and dry place. It will not be afraid of freezing and will retain its properties in cold weather.

Linseed oil

Processing wood with linseed oil is rightfully considered the cheapest and best means for protecting a wooden surface.

This oil has high waterproofing qualities and is intended for the treatment of internal and external surfaces. It can be used to impregnate walls, wooden facades, platbands, ceilings, furniture and other interior items, it will perfectly show the texture of wood, and it also penetrates into small cracks, preserves wood, creates a durable layer on its surface that repels water. When impregnated with oil at low temperatures and oxidative processes, it begins to thicken. Triglycerides actively contribute to this. Such oil dries longer than others - up to 21 days, depending on the number of layers, and if you add wax, tar or turpentine to it, the process will accelerate.

Impregnation of wood at home

We offer to consider such a process using the example of linseed oil as the most accessible and cheapest for any master. To work, you need a small list of things:

  • A brush made of natural hair, a soft rag, a foam sponge and a rag.
  • Mixing stick and oil.
  • Building hair dryer and metal brush - for removing old coatings.
  • Emery paper for smoothing surfaces.

  • Broom for removing dust from the surface.
  • Gloves to keep them clean.

Now let's look at the impregnation technology.

Impregnation technology

Oiling wood can be done in different ways. Someone will like impregnation and further rubbing, while others prefer soaking.

But keep in mind that the second method is suitable only for small-sized objects - decorative dishes, figurines. The dishes, by the way, can be used (as a container for salt, sugar, bread and fruits), and therefore they are not afraid of water at all.

Preparation

A very important stage of the work performed before impregnation will be the previously carried out preparation of the inner and outer surfaces. For digestion, you need to carefully sand the figures or dishes. It is assumed that they are only carved from wood and are not covered with anything on top.

Otherwise, you will need to remove paint, varnish, and this is very dreary.

For a large area (ceiling, walls and floor), you will need to do much more:

  1. Peel off the old layers of the coating. This includes both paint and varnish. A metal brush, a spatula should be used for cleaning, and if the paint does not want to be cleaned, it should be heated with a construction hairdryer. When it starts to bubble, pry off the layer with a spatula and remove.

  2. Sand the surface. Use a couple of types of sandpaper for this - fine and coarse. Scraping can be done when you begin to feel a smooth, flawless surface close at hand.
  3. Remove dust. It should be brushed off with a soft broom (Vietnamese) or use the simplest rag.

    The surface must be free of any dust before oiling.

Now goes to the impregnation process.

Smearing

The best and easiest way to protect wood from rotting and moisture is oiling. This is best done with a rag and natural bristle brushes can be used. This is true for a small area (for example, platbands).

The external and internal walls, ceiling or floor should be impregnated with a cloth soaked in oil.

This should be done as follows:

  • Natural oils for wood processing - features of choice and properties Stir the product and pour some into a container.
  • Moisten a cloth and start work, and then apply the composition along the fibers.
  • Leave the oil on for 15 to 20 minutes. Then remove the remnants with an old rag.

  • Let the surface dry and then repeat the first three steps.

And let's move on to the last stage.

Soaking

Oiling wood use for small items. Pour oil into a container and place a pre-cleaned wood product in it. The aging period is not limited.

Ideally, you should hold the figurine, plate, knife / gun handle until air bubbles stop coming out of the wood. After take out the item, put it on the table, which is covered with clean paper, in a tilted state so that excess oil is glass. Then take a rag and polish. Pure flax oil without additives will dry for a long time - up to 21 days, and there is a plus - the depth of such impregnation is large, and the wood will receive excellent protection from rot, moisture and mold. If you can't wait to see the finished product, you should add beeswax to linseed oil, which will speed up the process.

Recipe for wax-oil based on linseed oil (suitable for both interior and exterior surfaces):

  • Heat the oil until smoke appears.
  • Pour the grated wax into it.
  • Mix, when the wax dissolves, pour the composition into a jar.
  • Add a little juniper oil to add a pleasant scent to the mixture.

The proportions of oil-based formulations may vary.

To get a thin layer for treating the floor, take 10 measures of oil and 1 measure of wax. It should be treated with this composition up to 4 times, and compositions based on wax and oil are suitable for walls. Impregnation of wood with an oil composition is an inexpensive option for protecting it from various adverse effects. In comparison with industrial antiseptics, it will turn out to be of high quality, cheap and safe for health at all stages of work.

( 1 grade, average 5 of 5 )

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