The popularity of oil paints has dropped markedly with the advent of universal formulations on acrylic, latex and silicone bases, but there is still a certain demand for them. The explanation is simple - with excellent operational properties, such paints are distinguished by an affordable price, which allows reducing repair costs. In order to choose the right composition for outdoor work, you should familiarize yourself in more detail with the technical characteristics of oil paints, their marking, and the subtleties of application.
Oil paint for outdoor use
Scope of oil paints are quite wide: they are used for finishing facades, fences, decorative elements, interior items, as well as for protecting metal equipment from corrosion. They are perfect for concrete, wood, brick and metal surfaces and fit well on plaster.
The choice of paint for exterior or interior work directly depends on the components contained in the composition.
Features of oil paints
The main composition of oil paints is standard - it is drying oil and coloring pigments. Previously, only natural drying oil was used, but modern manufacturers prefer synthetic compounds that dry faster. Sometimes natural and synthetic ingredients are blended to give specific characteristics to the finished paint.
According to the ratio of these components, the following types of drying oil are distinguished:
Ocher, titanium dioxide, red lead, zinc and lead, as well as other substances with coloring properties are used as pigments.
Oil paint "Light ocher", "Golden ocher" and "Natural sienna"
Oil paint "red iron"
In addition, various fillers are introduced into the composition, which increase the water resistance of the paint, give shine, accelerate the drying time - cobalt and manganese salts, talc, barite, mica, kaolin.
Two types of oil paints come on sale - thick-grated and liquid. The first type is a pasty mass, which, before use, must be diluted with linseed oil to the desired density.
Thick-grated colored oil paints
The second type is a completely ready-to-use composition, which you just need to mix until smooth. During storage, the pigments settle to the bottom, and when you open the can you can see a thick layer of oil on top. If the paint is too thick, it is allowed to dilute it with turpentine or white spirit, but not more than 5% of the total mass.
Benefits of paints on oil-based quite weighty:
If the painting technology is observed, the surface will be reliably protected from weathering, mold, harmful microorganisms and dirt. The dense structure of the film does not allow dust and soot from exhaust gases to stick in, and therefore cleaning does not take much time.
Renewal of the facade finish of a wooden house with oil paint
The paint is easy to apply, but the service life is not too long
There are several main indicators that determine the choice of oil paint for outdoor use:
These substances provide the hiding power of the paint layer, therefore, the higher this indicator, the denser the coating is and the better it adheres to the surface. The minimum value is 26% of the total paint mass. At the same time, the larger the mass fraction of film-forming agents, the worse the paint is stored;
In a quality paint, this indicator should not exceed 10%;
13 units, the degree of water resistance is from 0 to 0.5.
Dulux Domus - semi-gloss oil-alkyd paint for wooden facades
In addition to these characteristics, paint consumption and time are taken into account drying. On average, consumption is 150 g / m2, and depends on two parameters - the viscosity of the composition and the absorbency of the working surface. For example, painting a concrete wall will require much less paint than a wooden one with the same area.
It usually takes 24 hours to dry completely, some formulations dry 12 hours.
Oil paint MA-15
Oil paint TIKKURILA Teho (Teho )
Alphanumeric designations indicated on containers with paint indicate the type of binder and the purpose of the oil composition:
Marking and purpose of oil paints and enamels
The first number indicates the area of application:
The second digit also indicates the type of binder:
The next digits are the serial number.
For example, MA-15 paint means a composition for external use based on a combined drying oil, and PF-218 means an oil paint for internal use on a pentaphthalic binder with serial number 18.
Enamel PF-218 (PF-218 KhS, PF-218 GS)
Zinc thickened white
Oil-based thick-grated color paints
Oil paint for outdoor work
To correctly calculate the total amount of oil paint, first of all, you need to know how much it is consumed per square meter. Each container with paint indicates the minimum and maximum value of the consumption rate in grams or milliliters per m2. This implies only one application layer. If you are going to paint a porous surface (wood, plaster, old brickwork), use a higher value for calculations, if the surface is dense and smooth (concrete, metal), take a lower value.
Multiplying the consumption by the total surface area and by the number of layers, we get the required amount of paint.
Painting a wooden surface will take a little more paint than a brick or concrete wall
For example, you need to paint a new plank wall 4x2 , 1 m. Paint consumption per square meter is 110-140 g / m2, and it will be applied in three layers. For a tree, we select the maximum value - 140, or 0.14 kg, and proceed to the calculations:
1x0.14x3 = 3.528 (kg)
Oil paints are packaged from 0.9 to 25 kg, so choose a volume that is as close as possible to the resulting quantity, and always with a small margin. Please note that some of the paint will remain on brushes or rollers, on the walls of paint containers, something will need to be tinted again.
Everyone can choose a container of the optimal size
Some manufacturers immediately indicate the area for which a specific volume of paint will be enough. For example, on a 1.9 liter can, a consumption of 10 m2 in 2 layers may be indicated. In this case, you just need to know how many squares you need to paint in order to select the appropriate packaging.
Consumption of oil paint per 1 square meter
To ensure that the oil paint lies flat, does not peel off after drying and does not crack, the base should be properly prepared.
It should be free of cracks, traces of dirt and oil stains, delamination and crumbling areas.
Step 1. Clean problem areas with a scraper or wire brush, and treat stains with solvent.
Tools for removing old paint from walls
If it is a wooden wall, be sure to check the condition of each board, replace the decayed elements.
If the base has already been painted, the old paint must be scraped off with a brush or treated with a special liquid - a remover. It is applied with a roller to the surface, left for a while, and then removed with a brush with stiff bristles.
Removing the old paint
Step 3 . All indentations and irregularities are putty. Use a leveling plaster if necessary.
The dried surface is sanded.
Step 4. Finish the preparation by applying a primer. For wood, a primer with antiseptic properties must be used. If the base is porous, primed in 2 layers.
Apply primer with roller or brush
Tip. To obtain a high-quality coating, varnish with the addition of pigment is used for the primer of the plastered walls. The mass fraction of the pigment should not exceed 10% by weight of the drying oil. The mixture is warmed up a little, stirred very thoroughly and applied to the surface with a brush or roller. For the priming of wooden walls, the proportions are different: 100 g of natural drying oil and 600-700 g of thickly grated paint.
Natural linseed oil
First select the tool to work with. The fastest and most convenient option is to use a spray gun, but it is advisable to buy it only if you need to paint a lot.
Multifunctional spray gun from a well-known manufacturer
The use of a roller allows more economical use of paint than using a brush, but the surface should be maximized smooth.
If the base is textured (wood, brickwork, embossed plaster), choose brushes - wide for continuous application and narrow for painting over corners.Make sure the bristles are firmly attached, otherwise when rubbing the viscous paint, the bristles will remain on the surface and spoil the look.
Flat paint brushes
Step 1. Prepare the paint: stir the contents of the can thoroughly with a wooden stick or spatula until the composition is uniform.
Stirring the paint
If you bought thickly grated paint, take a deep container, put the paste into it and pour in small portions of drying oil, each once thoroughly stirring everything with a wooden spatula. The paint is considered ready when it acquires the consistency of liquid sour cream and an even color.
If a film has formed on the paint in the can during storage, it must be very carefully removed using a piece of gauze or nylon cloth.
If the film breaks and its pieces get into the paint, strain the composition through a sieve or the same gauze. It is impossible to paint without straining - pieces of film will stick to the brush and remain on the painted surface.
Step 2. Surfaces that should not get paint should be pasted over with masking tape or treated with soapy water - dilute 30 g of laundry soap in a liter of warm water and apply with a sponge to the base.
Prepared soap solution
Use a narrow brush to paint over the corners around the perimeter and all hard-to-reach areas.
Painting the corners
Painting the facade
Then take a wide brush or roller and start painting in full. The brush is dipped only to half the length of the bristle to reduce runoff and paint splatter. For an even coating, the paint is applied all the time in one direction, rubbing well over the surface.
How to paint walls
Important! It is no longer possible to tint the passed areas after 15-20 minutes after application, as this violates the structure of the layer.
The detected defects you can eliminate when applying the second layer, that is, not earlier than in a day.
Step 4. Allow the surface to dry, after which it is processed again. This time the direction of the strokes should be perpendicular to the first layer, otherwise there will be noticeable traces. Do not apply the paint too thickly - this will result in sags that spoil the aesthetic appearance.
When the second layer is dry, it is recommended to wipe the surface with warm water with ammonia (1 part of ammonia for 10 parts of water). This solution gives the coating a pleasant shine, makes the color more even and saturated.
Unused paint in an open container should be poured with a thin layer of vegetable oil on top and sweaty covered with a lid. In this form, it can be stored for a long time, without losing its qualities. You can only merge paint residues together if they are completely identical in composition.
Otherwise, you can end up with a mixture that won't dry out.
To remove traces of oil paint from the skin of your hands, you need to rub them with a cloth soaked in vegetable oil and wash your hands with warm water and soap.
Apply oil paint
Highly painted facade
Pneumatic airbrushes, spray guns, texture guns
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