How to make an outdoor shower in the country with your own hands from scrap materials: photo, blueprints. In the summer, even when you are resting in the country (without work), you need to be able to swim at least once a day. The easiest way to do this is on the street and not in the house. You can even make an outdoor shower in the country that will be portable.
This is a great option for the first time, but since everyone wants something more solid, it is worth building an outdoor shower in the country, which will be, though light, but stationary.
It is worth starting with the simplest model, for which even you will need a booth or large capacity. There are mobile showers that can work like a foot pump. The source of water is any container that you can put near you - a basin, a bucket, a tank. One end of the hose should be lowered into it, which will be connected to the foot pump type, and most often it is made in the form of a rug. It is worth connecting a hose with a watering can to the outlet of such a "pump".
To get a stream of water, you should stomp on the rug and alternately press on the pump cushions. As soon as they stomp, water will immediately flow. This option is great in that you can even carry it with you. It's warm outside - you can swim right on the lawn, and if it's cold, then go inside the house, put a trough and wash in it. Another advantage is that the water temperature can be controlled independently.
This shower option for summer use is quite good.
But during the arrangement of a stationary type of shower, the first question will be where to drain all the water. If you have a toilet drain, then you can start laying a pipeline there. But this solution is far from the best if you use special preparations for processing or bacteria for the waste pit. In this case, a certain level of humidity is required, and with a shower it will be much more than normal.
For the shower, it is best to create a separate drain pit. If the plot has soil with normal drainage capacity, then it will be enough to dig a hole with a size of 0.6 * 0. 6 * 0. 6 meters, cover everything with expanded clay or broken brick.
This should be enough for an average water consumption. If your family is of the "waterfowl" type or the water does not drain well, you should make a bigger pit.
By the way, there is a problem on sandy soils, namely, that the sand crumbles. In this case, the walls can be strengthened with a mesh, and wedges can be driven in along the edges. Another option would be to sheathe the walls with boards, but only if you have leftover material, you should not buy a new one.
Whatever the summer shower, it usually weighs a little. For this reason, one should not make too good a reason for him, and thereby bury the money. Most often, small foundation blocks are used, which are set on a level.The shower in the country turns out to be raised above ground level at a height of 0.2 meters.
This is enough to ensure that the treated wood, if used as a frame, does not rot. As a base, you can use building blocks or even excellent concrete posts. If you plan to cook a metal frame, then place it in a level on the exposed paving slabs. If you wish, you can cast the posts with your own hands - set up the formwork, lay the reinforcement and fill everything with concrete.
The dimensions of the shower cabin for use in summer can be chosen arbitrarily, since there are no defined standards.
In addition, the shower is often only one part of the complex. In another, a frequently undressed or room for heating water (wood-burning or electric type) is installed. Someone is trying to make a summer shower in the country with their own hands and arrange a pantry in the second half or fold garden tools. For this reason, a country shower is not always just a bathing booth.
If you plan to make a light structure in which people will only swim, then the simplest option would be to use a curtain instead of a door, and you can take the minimum size - a square with a side length of 0.
9 meters (see the drawing) , the height of the racks without a tank is 2. 2 meters or a little more (if everyone in the family is tall). But such a width is not always convenient, since it can be cramped for people even with an average configuration. A more comfortable width will be 1 meter, and preferably 1.2 meters.
Such a frame should be assembled from wooden blocks or metal.
The frame is usually loaded with a water tank and a casing. If you plan to install a 100-liter square container on top, and cover the walls with a film, special fabric or something else, you can take the minimum section. If you plan to install two 200-liter barrels, and the booth will be sheathed with lining on both sides, then the load will be different, and then a larger section will be required.
In addition, the metal frame for a shower in the country can be made from such scrap materials as profiled timber. The thickness of the walls for the racks should be 0.
3 cm, and 0.2 cm is suitable for the strapping. It has a square and rectangular section, and this greatly facilitates the fastening of the sheathing and lathing. To attach something to a corner, you often need to first screw on the bars, and then attach the rest of the harness to them. Everything can be attached directly to the profiled pipes - using screws or bolts with pre-drilled holes.
A metal frame is best cooked. If you do not have the necessary apparatus, then make a collapsible model with bolted connections. Some craftsmen do this - cut pipes to the desired length, take thick corners for installation and assemble the frame on bolts.
For the lower strapping, usually a pine beam with a size of 10 * 10 or 15 * 10 cm is used. The drains can be chosen with a smaller section, but again, it all depends on the load. If there is a volumetric tank on the roof, then it is worth making racks from a hundred square meters. If they only hold the roof on themselves, and the water is heated in a container located not on top, but next to it, then 5 * 5 cm will be enough.There are different ways of attaching the bars, and if it is correct, then you need to cut out a spike and a groove.
If you want to do everything quickly, then docking is allowed directly, and they try to strengthen the connections with the help of corners.
Set up the racks, and then immediately make the upper strapping. You can use 5 * 5 or even 5 * 4 cm on it. Also make additional intermediate straps, and it can be one, two and sometimes even three. If you plan to make the cladding using a lining, or an imitation of a bar, then the crossbars should be fastened as often as possible - so it will be possible to more tightly adjust the not quite even lumber.
The quality of materials made from wood that are sold on the market is usually not the best, so you have to correct geometric "jambs" at the expense of force.
How to build from a bar, see the video.
You can cover the frame with almost any material:
- Foil or oilcloth . This option is clearly short-lived, but fast and very cheap, it will definitely be enough for the season. You can even use old banners (advertising agencies give them away almost for nothing).
- Fabrics with special impregnation. The option is fairly inexpensive and easy. You can use the material used for awnings, tents.
- Lumber. How else to make a summer shower? Imitation of timber, lining, block house, and so on.
There is one important point - you should not buy a raw lining or block house if you need to install it right away. After a year, all this will largely dry out due to the appearance of cracks. Sometimes the shrinkage becomes so significant that the boards begin to pop out of the grooves. There should also be natural ventilation, although if you do everything according to the principle of a wicker fence, you can use even the most ordinary boards.
Polymer or asbestos can be used, although many already know that the latter is harmful (but people still use it to make cladding).
- Profiled sheet. If there are scraps left after the fence from the profiled flooring has been made, you can use them for arrangement.
- Polycarbonate. If you are not embarrassed by the fact that this material is translucent, then you can even use it.
Only in this case, it will be necessary to close up the sections, since otherwise moisture and dust will begin to enter the cells, and algae will also settle.Polycarbonate will no longer be transparent, and will turn grayish-green, which you probably won't like.
You can make any other fence that you can think of and will play a role. For example, in one area, the shower casing was woven.
As a tank for a summer shower in the country, you can use any container that is available.
Most often these are barrels made of plastic or metal. If there is nothing suitable, then the container can be bought. They are in a huge assortment - plastic, metal (stainless steel or ferrous metal). Not everyone likes plastic ones, since water heats up in them worse, and this is not at all scary for the southern regions - there is enough heat, but for the middle zone it can be critical. Although in this region, most of the summer, it is required to heat water even if it is in black barrels of their metal.
On the other hand, plastic containers are inexpensive, lightweight, and there are even flat square ones, which means that you can easily put them on the shower frame and there will be no need to come up with a mounting method.
In a metal barrel, water will warm up faster, especially if it is black, but if it is made of standard metal, then by the end of the season there will be a lot of rust, so much that it will be noticeable on the body. This is the main disadvantage of tanks, and it is much better to use stainless steel ones. If possible, it is better to buy such a container.
There are two options for equipping a country shower - if a septic tank (drain pit) is located under the shower, and then you can make a pouring floor (lay boards with a gap of 0.
3-0.5 cm). This option is considered simple, since it works great for sandy loam and sandy soils, and in this case the water will go away very quickly and will not stagnate anywhere. Such a device will definitely not cause any inconvenience. But this option is only suitable if you plan to use the shower only in warm weather, and in autumn and spring it will not work - it will be cold due to blowing from below.
If you need a good drain for a summer shower in the country with your own hands, then it is worth taking the drains aside and making a pallet in the shower. The easiest option would be to buy a ready-made one, and then during construction you will focus on the size of the pallet - take bars under it, to which everything will be attached. The connection is also standard - installing a siphon with a flexible hose, just like for a bathroom. If the pallet is made of plastic, then only the bars around the perimeter will not be enough - support is required, since otherwise the structure will "walk". This base is usually laid out of bricks, and everything can be connected with mortar.
Remember to leave room for the drain hose.
In special cases, they try to make the drain more solid, and do not use a ready-made pallet.In this case, pouring a concrete slab is required, and for this you need to dig a pit of the required size with a depth of 0.4 meters. At the bottom, you need to lay a layer of gravel, the thickness of which is 0.
2 meters, and at this stage it is worth installing a mortgage - a drain pipe and a drain grate. Next, install the formwork, which can be fixed (made of bricks). Tamp the crushed stone, fill it with M250 concrete mortar, and wait a week for the base to become solid. After that, you can continue to work, namely, install the frame and engage in construction.
C filling the tank usually does not cause problems, but sometimes you have to carry water in buckets - believe me, if you want to wash yourself, you won't go like that.
This is inconvenient, but bearable. If there is a water supply in the country, then the tank can be filled with a hose, and it is mounted as a supply pipe with a valve.
The best idea is to set up automatic filling, and then the water supply will be opened and closed by a float system like the one that costs in the toilet tank. But keep in mind that it is worth considering the possibility of breakdown and overflow of water. It is desirable that it be possible to turn off the supply tap when leaving the dacha, so as not to turn your and a neighbor's dacha into a swamp.
An approximate diagram of the implementation of filling the tank is automatically shown in the figure.
Please note, that the water intake into the shower stall occurs close to the surface, since usually there is the warmest water. Only the pipe should be inserted from the opposite end from the cold water inlet, otherwise the water will be cold.
Two pipes go into the sewer - one of the overflow type (has a mustard color), and with its help the tank will not overflow if the float mechanism breaks down. The second drain into the sewer system is made for complete drainage (brown).
This will come in handy when storing the system for the winter, and therefore a tap must be installed in advance.
The best option would be to use the energy of the sun, and yes, it is able to heat water even through the walls of the tank. But the thickness of the water is too large for it to warm up quickly enough, and therefore people began to come up with different ways to optimize the heating of water from solar energy. As mentioned above, the warmest water in the tank is located at the top, and the supply usually comes from the bottom. It turns out that at first you spend the coldest water, but in order for the heated water to immediately enter the watering can, you should attach a hose to it, and then attach it to a piece of foam that will float.
Thus, the water intake will be from the top.
To speed up the water heating process, a coil should be made.At the bottom of the water pipe and above, in one of the walls, two pipes should be welded at once, and a black rubber hose should be connected to them, which will be folded in rings in the sun. If there is no air in the hose, then the movement of water will turn out to be quite active. If the heat from the sun is not enough, but it is possible to supply electricity to the shower, then use wet heating elements.
They should be with thermostats so that you can set the required temperature level.
Good advice! When you pull the power line to the shower, do not forget to install RCD machines. This is the minimum requirement for your safety.
A fence was installed as one of the walls of the shower at the far end of the site. The shower is made with a changing room - so much easier.
The soil is sandy, so the water drains very quickly, and only one tire was ordered to drain. The shower test proved that no more is needed. Much more water was poured than in the barrel, there were no puddles. Three more were added to the fence post that was already in place. A round pipe was also used, which has long been lying in the garage.
Pits were dug under the pillars, the depth of which is 0.8 meters. Pillars were installed in them and covered with rubble, and then it was tamped and poured with concrete. Further, a pit was welded and a rectangular pipe 6 * 3 cm was used. For such a design, this is even a lot, but only improvised materials were used.
When the floor frame is welded and the level is marked, a riser can be formed. Next, it remains to report the missing height using a brick (remnants or battle). Everything is filled with concrete, the drain is formed into a niche. It remains to level the floor in the second half, the wood is processed (aspen boards). It was also impregnated with a special composition against decay and fire.
When everything is ready, you need to wash the barrel in the barn and weld the pipes to it, which will be for filling the water and connecting the watering can. After that, it remains to paint the tank black and you have a shower ready to give.
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