Review and step-by-step instructions + Video

In interior design , the canvas occupies a special place, because its beautiful original design can add volume and zest for any room.

However, not all finishing materials are capable of realizing the ideas and flight of the designers' imagination. Drywall is another matter. You can make a single-level, domed, curved or two-tiered plasterboard ceiling, decorate it with stucco moldings, niches for lighting or lamps, level the drops. There are a lot of options.

But this is not the only reason why drywall is one of the most popular finishing materials. It has many other advantages.

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Increased requirements are imposed on interior decoration, and if you are thinking of hemming the ceiling with plasterboard, let's consider the advantages and disadvantages, characteristics and composition of the material, its varieties.

Pros and cons of plasterboard ceilings

Advantages of drywall:

• environmentally friendly material, non-toxic, does not cause allergic reactions, suitable for children's rooms and sleeping quarters;
• a smooth, even surface of the material is ideal for wallpaper and painting;
• has excellent heat and noise insulation characteristics, which is especially important for ceilings;
• can be placed in the frame additional sound insulation and insulation, hide the wiring and pipes;
• the ceiling is made on any surface, no matter how uneven;
• you can build a structure that visually raises the ceiling and increases the area of ​​the room.
• Due to the plasticity of the material, the design of plasterboard ceilings, as well as the design of stretch ceilings, can be solved with a variety of broken lines, outside the box.

Of course, there are no ideal materials and drywall also has its disadvantages:

• for rooms in which every centimeter of space is important - 5 cm are of fundamental importance (namely, as much as this material will steal in height). Therefore, people often abandon the idea of ​​plasterboard, because not everyone can boast of high ceilings;
• The second disadvantage is not the easiest method of installation and the need for additional tools. If you decide to install drywall on the ceiling with your own hands, at the final stage, when attaching sheets to prepared profiles, you will still need a partner, since the material is heavy;
• if the finishing technology at the joints of the sheets is violated, formation cracks.

If, after evaluating all the advantages and disadvantages, you decided that installing drywall on the ceiling is interesting, let's move on to the choice of material, since it has many variations for different categories of premises and surface contours.

Types of drywall, dimensions and characteristics

1. GKL - a gypsum sheet, pasted over on both sides with soft cardboard. The starting plate is gray.
2. GKLO - fire-resistant drywall. Typically used for industrial ducting and communications.
3. GKLV - waterproof gypsum plasterboard for use in rooms with high humidity (bathroom, bathroom, kitchen or loggia).

   The plate is green.

1. GKLVO - water -, fire-resistant drywall.
2. GVL is a solid gypsum-fiber board, produced with a thickness of 6 and 10 mm.

   Production technology - gypsum reinforcement with cellulose fibers. Flame retardant material.

3. GVLV - moisture resistant fiber board.

Standard dimensions: 1200 * 2000, 2500, 2600, 2750, 3000.

Application tips

• Plasterboard sheets are available in 9.

  5 and 12.5 mm thick. Usually for the production of work indoors, especially for the ceiling, a thinner and lighter material is used.

• In rooms, corridors, or to obtain bends along the plane, ordinary gray gypsum boards are used. They are more flexible.

How to sheathe the ceiling with plasterboard

There are three main nodes in the plasterboard box device:

• Bundle of guides and ceiling profiles (their dimensions are indicated above).

• Hangers, fasteners and connecting elements (dowels, crabs, anchors). The hangers connect the main ceiling and the ceiling profiles; it has frequent holes for easy height adjustment.

  U-shaped straight strips are preferred.

• Plasterboard boards.

  

The structure determines the installation order.

Work steps :

1. Preparing tools and consumables
2. Marking the ceiling
3. Frame structure
4. Laying GK sheets
5. Sealing and covering the surface with wallpaper or paint

After reading the detailed instructions, it will not be at all difficult to make a plasterboard ceiling ourselves, so we will move in stages.

Preparation for work

Tools

• hammer drill, drill, crown for large diameter;
• tape measure, painting cord or fishing line (strong rope) and pencil;
• nippers, pliers, scissors for metal;
• sandpaper, plane;
• hammer, construction knife;
• hydro level.

The hydro level is convenient to use in order to make perfect markings on the walls with any uneven surfaces in the room.

Accessories and consumables:

1. to create the frame, you will need guides (28 * 27 mm) and ceiling (60 * 27 mm) profiles;
2. profile connectors ( crabs);
3. dowels, anchor wedges;
4. straight hangers,
5. self-tapping screws for metal and with a press washer;
6. seal (porous self-adhesive tape, 3 cm wide);
7. acrylic primer, trowel;
8. putty, reinforcing tape.

Of course, the list turned out to be long, but, all the same, you will also have to buy drywall.

Useful tips:

• on and more straight suspensions are considered strong for fastening profiles;
• the ceiling profile is spliced ​​with butt joints, so you can buy any, even of small length.
• the sealant used to fix the frame ceiling structure to the walls and ceiling, simultaneously dampens sounds;

Important: To avoid deformation, do not put drywall sheets edge, fold on top of each other!

After all materials, tools and components are prepared, you can proceed to installation.

Marking

When marking the ceiling, the lowest corner of the room is initially determined and a mark is made in this place at a distance of 5 cm or 10 cm from the ceiling.

A 10 cm mark is made in the event that lamps will be installed in the box, since if they are available, internal ventilation is needed.

Then, using the water level, mark out the rest of the corners.

With a strong rope drawn between the marks, draw horizontal lines around the perimeter with a pencil. Of course, if there is a paint line, this will greatly simplify the marking.

Frame device

• To fix the guide profile on the wall, attach it so that the bottom shelf of the profile goes along the line and mark the places on the surface holes. Make holes along these marks with a puncher (step from 30 to 50 cm). Then, fixing the profile with a sealant, fix it with dowels.

• For the equipment of direct suspensions, make a linear marking on the ceiling of the places where the longitudinal strips pass with an interval of 40 cm.Direct suspensions will be located along these lines: the first rows of elements - at a distance of 25-30 centimeters from the walls, along the rest of the length of the room with a step of 50-60 cm.

• After marking the places for the suspension device, drill holes for the fasteners. It is preferable to perform this operation with a mask and glasses.
• Install straight hangers, bending the edges as much as possible.

• To install the main longitudinal ceiling profile, its maximum total length must be 1 cm less than the ceiling length. This will exclude the possibility of destruction of the framework. If the room is less than 3 meters, cut the bar with metal scissors. For longer lengths, we build up the parts using the connecting fasteners.

Joints of elongated adjacent elements should be placed out of order.

Insert the prepared ceiling profile into the guides with a small gap from the wall and fix it with self-tapping screws.

• We attach the resulting drywall frame to the ceiling with straight hangers.

We connect the suspension to the ceiling strip with four self-tapping screws with a press washer and bend the protruding part inward. The order of fixing the elements is from the corners of the room to the center.

In principle, installing a ceiling profile is a fairly simple job, the main thing is to constantly monitor the level.

It is convenient to do this by pulling the line or rope.

• Installation of transverse ceiling parts will give the frame structure the necessary rigidity. Elements are located at the joints of gypsum plasterboards. For a bundle of longitudinal and transverse profiles, crabs are used, fixed with 4 self-tapping screws.

Well, finally the frame is ready.

Before installing drywall, do not forget to put everything you need in the future box - wiring, insulation, stash , sound insulation (if you plan).

Now let's take a look at how to attach drywall to a ceiling-mounted frame.

Installation of plasterboard on the frame

To cut the material to size, use a construction knife or a hacksaw with a fine tooth. Plates are placed on a flat table surface and the front surface is notched at? thickness.

Then, displacing the sheet, break it and cut the opposite side. The resulting burrs and irregularities in the place of the cut are removed with a plane.

Laying drywall sheets on a metal structure grid is desirable produce with a partner, since the material is of considerable weight.

Optimal installation option - whole slab, half, whole, half. In this way, you can neutralize possible drops.

Important points:

• leave gaps between the edge of the sheet and the walls to prevent surface deformation. The gaps are not putty, but are closed with a fillet;
• the joining of the plates is performed along the jumpers;
• the distance of the joint from the outer corner must be at least 100mm.

The laid drywall sheets are self-tapping with metal hardware with a 15-centimeter pitch, starting from the corners and slightly deepening the caps. The fasteners are placed along the perimeter to the rear wall of the guide profiles, the screws are placed randomly along the ceiling strips.

Now that the plasterboard box under the ceiling is ready, proceed to the finishing of the resulting surface.

Sealing, putty, cladding

Before puttingtying joints and attachment points, the surface of the ceiling is primed, and reinforcing tape is placed in the seams between the plates to prevent cracking.

After the soil has dried, the ceiling surface, seams, fixation points to the profiles are cleaned of dust and dirt. For work, we choose a high-quality durable putty. Follow the instructions for use exactly.

Putty is made with wide and angled spatulas, moreover, the joints are wetted and filled with putty paste as tightly as possible, without air inclusions.

After the paste has dried, the irregularities are removed with sandpaper, the putty joints are closed with self-adhesive tape, and the common surface - with fiberglass.

After finishing with a primer, the ceiling is ready for finishing. It can be painting, wallpaper, a combined version with the design of zonal segments. It all depends on your imagination, design decisions and preferences.

How to bend drywall?

Acrylic paint, latex, matte modifications, gloss are used for painting.

When pasting - any version of wallpaper is suitable.

In conclusion, a small remark:

The frame structure defines the shape of the ceiling. We examined a single-level plasterboard ceiling. To create a multi-tiered or curved box configuration, additional levels of guides and ceiling profiles are mounted. The order of work is similar, the main thing is to make a clear detailed drawing and thoughtful markup.

The curly lines of the ceiling look elegant and impressive. For all the apparent complexity, installing drywall on an unusual-shaped ceiling with your own hands requires only a thoughtful drawing and careful execution.