If you choose finishing for the facade solely for reasons of practicality, you should pay attention to the corrugated board. Strong, durable, not too expensive, this material is widely used in private construction. And if earlier it was used more for fences and roofs, now it is actively used for external walls. Sheathing a house with corrugated board does not require special skills, and if you know how to handle a construction tool, it will not be difficult to cope with the installation.
Sheathing the house with corrugated board
The professional sheet can have not only colored decorative coating , but also imitate wood, stone
For the manufacture of corrugated board, thin sheet steel is used, protected from corrosion by a zinc coating.
After rolling in machine tools, the flexible metal turns into corrugated profiles with waves of different configurations and sizes, and acquires additional characteristics. To enhance the protective properties, the sheets are coated with a polymer composition, a decorative layer is applied on the front side. Stiffening ribs give the product high strength with low weight, which helps to reduce the load on the base. And the higher the height of these ribs, the more resistant the corrugated board to mechanical stress.
The service life of the cladding depends on the type of protective coating: a simple galvanized corrugated board serves about 30 years, and a corrugated board with a polymer coating - up to 45 and more.
The material lends itself to mechanical processing, is easily drilled and cut, due to which the installation of sheets is carried out without much effort. If necessary, the corrugated board can be dismantled and reused without deterioration in performance.
Sheathing the walls of the house with corrugated board
According to GOST 24045 -2010, the corrugated board is divided by purpose into several types - load-bearing, roofing, wall and mixed type.
Steel sheet bent profiles with trapezoidal corrugations for construction. Download file
Each species has a corresponding marking.
Wall sheeting (C), characterized by a trapezoidal corrugation, is intended for facade cladding. The height of the profile varies from 8 to 44 mm, the decorative coating can be either plain or patterned.
Seeing the letter "C" in front of the numerical marking combination, there is no doubt that it is wall sheeting in front of you
Wall corrugated board
If you want to sheathe the frame of a garage or any other non-residential building, it is recommended to choose a bearing (H) corrugated board, or mixed type, which is indicated by letters NS.
Bearing corrugated board
When marking sheets, numbers are put next to the letter designation, which indicate the height of the corrugation - C-8, C -10, C-20 and so on.When cladding private houses, the most demanded is S-8 corrugated board: it is the most inexpensive, lightweight, but at the same time has good strength.
C-8 professional flooring
If the facade is exposed to high wind loads, it would be more appropriate to use the C-15, C-20 profiles or C-21, which are more rigid and not prone to bending.
Professional sheet S-15
Professional flooring S-20
Decorative qualities of the material are no less important when choosing. For a residential building, an ordinary galvanized sheet is not suitable, such a sheathing is more appropriate for industrial structures or household buildings. Therefore, preference should be given to colored corrugated board with a high-quality polymer coating.
Profiled sheeting with a pattern like a stone
A decorative layer can be matte and glossy, plain, with a texture like stone, wood, brick and other materials.
Printed sheets are much more expensive than plain sheets, but they look just great. From a distance, the wavy relief of the cladding is not noticeable, and it seems that the house is really made of stone or brick.
Imitation of torn stone
Tip. When choosing material, pay attention to the back of the sheet. There are options with a double-sided decorative coating, designed for fences and partitions.
Of course, they can also be used for cladding a house, but why overpay for something that will not be visible anyway?
It is more economical to use a professional sheet painted with one side
To avoid unnecessary costs, it is necessary to correctly calculate the amount of material before purchasing. First, measure the walls and calculate the total area.
The area of the walls and pediment
Next, the area of the window and door openings, as well as those areas that will not be sheathed (if they are). The area of the pediments is added if they are also planned to be sheathed. Now the resulting value remains to be divided by the area of one sheet.
When calculating, one should take into account not the overall, but the useful width of the sheet, since the corrugated board is overlapped. The standard sheet length is 2 m, although it can vary from 0.5 to 14 meters for different manufacturers.
Standard dimensions of corrugated board
For example, let's take a rectangular house: the height of the walls is 3 m, the length is 4 and 6 m, there are 4 windows measuring 1.5x1.
1 m and a doorway 2x1.4 m. Multiplying the height by the length and adding the area of the walls, we find out the total area of the future cladding - 60 m2. Using the same formula, we calculate the area of the openings:
1.5 x 1.
1 x 4 = 6.6 + 2.8 = 9.4 m2;
60 - 9.4 = 50.
That is, the working area of the walls is 50.6 m2.
The area of the gables is calculated differently, depending on their shape. If the pediment is trapezoidal, add both bases, halve, and multiply by the height.
If the pediment is an isosceles triangle, multiply half its height by the base. For example, the height of the pediment is 2 m, the base is 4 m. 0.5 x 2 x 4 = 4 m2.
Since there are two pediments, we add another 8 m2 to the total planking area, and as a result we get 58.
6 m2. The standard dimensions of a sheet of C-8 corrugated board are 2000x1150 mm, which means that its area is 2.3 m2. We divide the area of the sheathing by the area of the sheet - 58.6: 2.
3 = 25.48. Having rounded off, we get 26 sheets, but we need to take 2-3 more sheets in reserve, since additional material may be needed during cutting.
In addition to the sheets themselves, additional elements will be needed for finishing. Each of them performs specific functions and is an integral part of the house cladding.
|Used for framing outside corners. It gives the cladding a complete look and at the same time protects the joints from precipitation, dust, small debris. It is mounted on top of the corrugated board, as a result of which the caps of the self-tapping screws remain in sight|
|Fastened in the inner corners of the building, performs protective and decorative functions. It is mounted on top of corrugated sheets, fasteners remain in sight|
|Outside corner complex||Performs the same functions as a regular corner, but it is attached to the crate before mounting the sheets. Such an installation allows you to make hidden fasteners|
|Internal corner complex||Installed in the inner corners of the facade before installing the corrugated board, it performs protective and decorative functions|
Composite docking strip
| Designed to protect and finish the sheathing joints on the wall plane. |
It is attached to the crate before installing the corrugated board
|Used for framing sheathing ends, protects them from the effects of precipitation, gives a neat look. Attached to the crate before installing sheets|
|Used for framing door and window openings. Protects from precipitation and debris, attaches to the battens before installing the casing|
|Performs the same functions as a complex docking strip, but is attached after the cladding is installed, as a result of which the fastener heads remain visible|
|Molding||Used for finishing the joint between the facade of the house and the filing of the eaves.Attached to the crate before installing the corrugated board|
|Used for protection window-sill space from rain streams. Installed at the bottom of the window slopes before the installation of the cladding|
|Platband||It is used to decorate door and window openings, gives them a complete look|
| Used to protect the top of the plinth from rain and snow, thereby extending its life. |
It is attached to the bottom of the crate before installing the corrugated board
As a rule, these products are produced in lengths of 3.2 and 1.25 m, although each manufacturer may have its own parameters. It is much easier to calculate their number than sheathing sheets, since everything here is measured in linear meters, and not in square meters.
Wall cladding with corrugated board includes three main stages: surface preparation, installation of the frame, installation of additional elements and sheets.
If wall insulation is planned, the insulation is laid after the frame is installed.
Sheathing of a house made of corrugated board
In the diagram - wall cladding with corrugated sheet
Profiled sheeting can be mounted horizontally and vertically, this does not affect the protective functions of the sheathing. There must be an air gap between the cladding and the bearing wall, which facilitates the escape of vapors through the walls of the house. When cladding a wooden facade, the frame can be mounted from wooden beams, but a metal profile is more suitable for brick and concrete walls.
Minor defects are not visible under the metal cladding, so there is no need to carefully level the walls.
But it is imperative to eliminate cracks, through gaps, fungus, otherwise the destructive effect will continue, and the walls will soon require major repairs.
Gutters, platbands, ebbs, lighting devices and other items that interfere with finishing are dismantled from the facade. They clean up dust and dirt, check the integrity of the walls. A cement mortar is used to seal the cracks. Where the masonry is badly crumbled, you need to knock out the remnants of the bricks and put new ones on fresh mortar.
This applies not only to the walls, but also to the basement of the house.
How to repair a crack in a brick wall of a house
The areas affected by the fungus are cleaned with a scraper and thoroughly treated with chlorine-containing products.
Fungus on the facade
Apply with a roller
If these are wooden walls, you need to treat them with an antiseptic primer 2-3 times. After that, the surface should dry completely.
Primer deep penetration
The frame for cladding must be perfectly flat, that is, all guides must be located strictly in the same vertical plane.
Fastening "by eye" is not allowed here, because even small deviations lead to deformations of the skin and a decrease in the strength of the structure. It is recommended to mount the guides on brackets, so it is much more convenient to align them vertically.
Step 1. Markings are made on the prepared surface for adjustable brackets. They begin to mark from the corner: determine the vertical using a level or plumb line, and put points on this line with chalk every 50-60 cm.
Then they retreat to the side of 40 cm and repeat the steps.
Step 2. After completing the marking, drill holes for all fasteners, insert dowels, screw brackets. It is recommended to insert paronite spacers between the bracket and the wall.
If the walls are brick, the holes for the dowels should not fall into the masonry joints. Also, you cannot use a hammer drill for drilling if the load-bearing walls are lined with hollow bricks.
Step 3. Next, take the first guide profile, apply it to the brackets and bait with self-tapping screws. Using the level, they check the location of the profile horizontally, if necessary, correct, tighten the screws.
The design of the brackets allows the leveling of the battens within 30 mm. All other frame profiles are installed and screwed in turn. Additional jumpers are attached around the openings so that the crate is solid.
Brackets and attaching the supporting profile to them
Example of vertical battens
Vertical posts of the frame
Step 4. Plate insulation is attached between the guides.
Most often, mineral wool is used for insulation under the corrugated board: it retains heat well, is easy to install, and has a vapor permeability. Plates are fixed from the bottom up, with the obligatory displacement of vertical seams in each subsequent row. The insulation layer must be continuous, so make sure that there are no gaps between the plates.
Installation and fixation of insulation plates
Disc dowels are used to fix the insulation. Holes in the wall are drilled directly through the material, to a depth of 4-5 cm.
There must be at least 5 dowels per slab - one in the center, four in the corners.
Step 5. Hydro and wind protection is required on top of the thermal insulation layer.The windproof membrane canvases are mounted perpendicular to the guides, that is, they are mounted horizontally on a vertical frame, from bottom to top, and on a horizontal frame, they are mounted vertically. To do this, the upper edge of the web is fixed with self-tapping screws to the upper guide, the material is rolled down, slightly pulled, secured with self-tapping screws to the lower profile.
Mounting the wind barrier
Adjacent cloths are installed with an overlap of 10-15 cm. On the overlap line, the material is also fixed along the entire height to guide profiles. Near the openings, the membrane is cut along the perimeter of the frame and is also fixed on the crate. Sometimes the waterproofing film is attached with double-sided tape, and fixed to the wooden frame with a stapler.
On the lower edge of the frame, screw the basement outflow with self-tapping screws. If the frame is vertical, you first need to beat off the horizontal in level, otherwise the ebb will be uneven. In the case of a horizontal sheathing, this element is screwed to the bottom profile. The ebb strips are overlapped with each other by 20-30 mm.
Fastening the basement strip
Next, make out the doorway. Take a sloping bar, cut it to the height of the door frame, apply it to the outer edge of the frame and set it in level. Fasten with self-tapping screws with a pitch of 30 cm through the sighting shelf. In the same way, I mount the bar on the other side and above the opening.
Measuring and setting the starting bar of the slopes
Cutting and setting the starting bar above the opening
Begin to decorate the window openings. The window sill is cut to the width of the opening, applied to the bottom of the frame and adjusted to size. The element is screwed to the lathing guides. Next, the side slope planks are cut and fastened, the upper plank is mounted last. Two neat cuts are made at the ends of the planks and the resulting "ears" are folded onto the side profiles.
Step 9. Next, set the outer and inner corners, as well as the connecting strip, if elements of complex shape are used. The profile is attached to the outer corner, baited from above with a self-tapping screw and set according to the level. The bottom edge of the corner profile should overlap the bottom of the batten by 5-6 mm. Having aligned the element, screw it to the crate along the entire length.
The inner corners are fixed in the same way. If simple profiles are used, they are fixed on top of the sheathing, so that after finishing the openings, you can immediately start installing the sheets.
Tip. Experts recommend starting the installation of the cladding from the back of the house towards the front of the facade. When laying sheets horizontally, the initial line of attachment is the corner of the building or the doorway, with vertical installation, they start from the basement or blind area from the bottom up.
Step 10. Remove the protective film from the finishing material.They take the first sheet, put it to the crate from the corner and bait with a self-tapping screw at the bottom along the edge. Next, set it in level and, holding it in one position, screw the screws into the deflections of the wave. The attachment step is about 30 cm, or every 2 waves.
Fixing the profiled sheet
Step 11. The next sheet is applied with an overlap of 15 cm, leveled along the lower cut , screwed with self-tapping screws.
Along the joint line, fasteners are positioned with a step of 50 cm. When sheathing, vertical deviations are allowed no more than 6 mm.
Fixation of sheets of corrugated board and platbands
When tightening the self-tapping screws, avoid excessive tension of the sheathing sheets. They should fit snugly to each other, especially at the joints, but at the same time have a minimum gap of 0.8-1 mm at the fixing points to compensate for thermal expansion.
Making the opening
Step 12. When finishing the openings, the sheets are pre-cut according to measurements.
For cutting corrugated board, metal scissors, a fine-toothed hacksaw, and a jigsaw are used.
Cutting corrugated board with a saw
Cutting profiled sheet with a grinder
Angle grinders (grinders)
After installing the casing, install the remaining additional elements - platbands , simple corners and docking strips, cover the joints between the walls and the cornice with moldings.
The professional sheet on the facade can be laid both vertically and horizontally
Facade made of profiled sheet (horizontal arrangement)
Example of finishing a building with profiled sheet
Warehouse with profiled sheet cladding
Sheathing of the facade of the country house with corrugated board
Finishing the house with profiled sheet
The final stage is sheathing the pediments of the house. As with the walls, here the sheets can be placed both horizontally and vertically, depending on the preference of the homeowner. Before sheathing, the gables should be treated with a waterproofing compound and the surface should be allowed to dry.
After that, a crate is mounted from a 50x50 mm bar or an aluminum profile. The step of the lathing is 30-40 cm. If the attic is planned to be insulated, the lathing cells are filled with plates of mineral wool or polystyrene, reinforced with disc dowels.
Next, the insulation is closed with a waterproofing membrane, and a counter grill is mounted on top, which provides a ventilation gap. Along the lower edge of the pediment, an ebb is screwed to the crate, and on the sides, at the junction with the roof overhangs, end strips are mounted.
Now it remains to correctly cut the sheets and install them on the pediment. For convenience, you can make a simple template from scrap materials and cut profiled sheets according to it.During installation, the edges of the material are brought into the end strips, fitted tightly so that there are no gaps, the location is checked with a level. Fixation is carried out as standard with self-tapping screws or rivets with a step of 30 cm.
Gable made of corrugated board
Finishing the gable with corrugated board
The size of the roof overhang is chosen so as to cover the sandwich made of insulation and profiled sheet
The apparent simplicity of the corrugated board can be used in the most unusual way
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