Siding "herringbone": step-by-step instructions for finishing the facade with your own hands

When choosing a siding, the shape of the panels is one of the decisive factors, because it depends on this how the facade will look. Recently, consumers have been interested in the "herringbone" profile, which imitates wooden clapboard trim. Herringbone siding has an expressive texture and pleasant pastel colors, which gives the house a very cozy and attractive look.

Herringbone profile: characteristics

Coverage from the "herringbone" is an imitation of the traditional plank finish in the United States - the so-called "American". That is why such siding is much more in demand in Western countries than other types - "ship board" and "block house".

But in the domestic market, herringbone siding was not in great demand at first, and only over time did consumers appreciate its aesthetic qualities.

This profile is a wide strip of slightly concave shape with an additional stiffener (anti-hurricane lock is made with a double bend ). In this case, the profile can be single, double and triple, respectively, the panel has 2 or 3 longitudinal bends. Thanks to this configuration, dust and dirt do not accumulate in the seams and folds of the skin, and are easily washed off by precipitation.

Herringbone siding can be metal and vinyl, and is intended for horizontal fastening.

In their structure, they are no different from other varieties of this material. The standard metal panel consists of several layers:

• steel base;
• double-sided zinc coating;
• oxide film for corrosion protection;
• priming layer;
• decorative layer;
• polymer and varnish coating.

Vinyl siding is 80% PVC, the rest is various additives that improve the quality material: titanium dioxide, butadiene, calcium carbonate, modifiers and dyes.

When marking panels, the number of profile waves is indicated by letters:

• S (Single) - single profile;
• D (Double) - double;
• T (Triple) - triple.

The numbers behind the letter designation indicate the width of the wave in inches: for example, marking D4.

5 means a double profile with a wave width of 4.5 inches (i.e. the total panel width is 9 inches, or almost 23 cm). The most popular are models with a wavelength of 4, 4.

5 and 5 inches, which corresponds to 102, 114 and 127 mm. The dimensions of the panels may differ from each manufacturer, and there is no single standard here.

Specifications

The herringbone siding color range includes standard colors of the RAL table, while the panels can be either plain or with a pattern imitating the texture of fibers when sawing a tree in the center of the trunk.

Popular manufacturers

German and Canadian siding occupies a leading position in the domestic market, characterized by exceptional durability and a wide variety of models. Also popular are the products of several Russian companies that focus on price-quality ratio.

Mitten

This Canadian company is recognized leader in the production of siding. The quality of the material is so high that the manufacturer gives a 50-year guarantee.

Herringbone siding is available with single and double profiles, the coating imitates sawn wood, the panel is equipped with an anti-hurricane lock .

.. Herringbone D4.5 is available in two series: Oregon Pride and Sentry, the color range of single panels includes several shades from the Oregon Pride series.

Siding of this brand is very resistant to fading, therefore it retains its original shade for years.

In addition, the material does not contain toxic substances, and when heated under the sun, the panels do not emit harmful vapors.

Docke

This siding is made in Russia, but under the control and license of the German company "DOCKE Systemlosungen Gmbh". When developing the material, the peculiarities of the Russian climate were taken into account, therefore the panels are characterized by increased frost resistance and resistance to mechanical stress. Herringbone siding is represented by the D5C model, with a double profile and in four colors - ice-cream, blueberry, halva and pistachios.

Tecos

Siding is produced in Russia, but under the control of the Belgian company that is the founder of the brand. The material is of excellent quality, increased resistance to negative temperatures and mechanical stress.

Herringbone siding is available in three versions - double, triple and single profile of the Ardennes series.

All three types have the same dimensions, but differ slightly in price.

For double and triple herringbone, the coating can be smooth or wood-like, the texture of the single profile imitates decorative plaster. The color palette includes about 20 pastel shades of neutral, warm and cold colors.

Holzplast

A well-known German brand whose products are consistently in demand from a Russian buyer. The material has excellent frost resistance, durability, an excellent choice of colors and textures. Herringbone siding is presented in the form of a wide double profile with a wood grain texture.

The most popular colors are pearl and chestnut.

Among the noteworthy manufacturers, it is also necessary to note the Russian companies Alta-Profil, Grand Line, Canadian ROYAL and Kaycan.

Prices for siding herringbone

Herringbone siding

Installation technology of herringbone siding

The type of profile does not affect the installation technology, therefore, the herringbone is attached in the same way as "ship board" or timber siding.

The main condition for cladding is the presence of a wooden or metal lathing, which provides free air circulation between the wall and a panel.

In addition, the lathing allows you to achieve a perfectly flat plane, which is of paramount importance for the quality of the cladding.

Before installing the frame, you should properly prepare the surface: eliminate cracks, treat mold stains with an antiseptic, remove the peeling coating. The walls must be strong, reliable and always dry, so if you had to repair cracks and chips, you need to wait until the repair mortar has completely dried.In this case, it is not necessary to carry out continuous leveling with plaster - all flaws and irregularities will be hidden by the cladding.

The final stage in the preparation of the walls is priming: the soil will protect the surface from condensation, which can form during sharp temperature changes between the cladding and the wall.

If the house is wooden, the primer is chosen with pronounced antiseptic properties, because for wood the main problem is mold and decay.

The primed base must also dry completely before starting installation work.

It is necessary to prepare in advance everything that may be needed during installation:

• perforated hangers for attaching racks;
• grinder and screwdriver;
• dowels and galvanized self-tapping screws;
• building level and marker;
• scissors for metal.

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If the walls are brick or concrete, an additional hammer is required to make holes for fasteners. Next, you need to decide on the material for the lathing: the metal profile is more reliable and durable, the wooden bar is cheaper.

If you prefer the second option, be sure to treat the lumber with antiseptic impregnation on all sides and air dry thoroughly.

Attaching the guides

Start with the markings for hangers : determine the vertical level by the level and put points on this line with a marker every 40-50 cm.About 15 cm recede from the upper and lower edges of the wall, about 10 cm from the corner.There should also be a distance of 40-50 cm between the vertical lines, with this point can be located both in a checkerboard pattern, and on one horizontal line. Additional marks are placed around the openings: along the perimeter of the window and door frames, the frame must be reinforced with jumpers.

After completing the marking, a hole is drilled at each point according to the size of the fasteners, a suspension is applied horizontally, the hole in the plate is aligned with the hole in the wall and a dowel is threaded into it. Now all that remains is to screw in the self-tapping screw and bend the suspension ears at right angles to the surface. The rest of the suspensions are fixed in the same way.

Take the first profile or timber, apply it vertically to the suspensions and put it between the bent plates. Now it is necessary to very accurately set the vertical in level and fix the guide with self-tapping screws on both sides of each suspension.

After that, the next rack is attached, and so on to the very corner of the wall. After completing the installation of the main elements of the lathing, proceed to the installation of jumpers near the openings.

Installation of siding panels

The basement ebb is installed first, since it will not work after installation of the panels.Using a level and a coated cord, they beat off the horizontal along the lower edge of the frame and screw the ebb strips with screws, laying them overlapped by 20-25 mm.

At the corners it is most convenient to use ready-made corner elements, but if they are not there, you can connect two straight strips: edge the first plank is cut at an angle of 45 degrees, at the second plank, 2 cm wide allowances are left on each shelf and the edge is also cut off at an angle.

Both blanks are connected so that the allowances remain inside, and the joint is fixed with rivets, after which they are installed in place and screwed to the crate with self-tapping screws.

There is another way: they take a bar, mark a right angle in the middle and cut the upper and middle shelf on one side, the lower one must remain intact. On the other hand, a 20 mm allowance is left in the upper part, an incision is made in the middle part and the ends of the strip are brought together. The allowance is fastened with a rivet, the bar is installed in place and screwed to the crate, the joint is coated with sealant. Having fixed the ebb around the entire perimeter of the house, they begin to install the corners, starting plate and other additional elements.

Step 1. Determine the lower border of the skin, step back 20 mm and beat the horizontal. According to the marking, the starting plate is attached by screwing in self-tapping screws exactly in the center of the mounting holes. Be sure to leave a gap of 1 mm between the strip and the head of the hardware.

Step 2.

The next bar is screwed so that there is a gap of 5-6 mm between the ends of the profile, and all the others are mounted in the same way.

Step 3. The outer and inner corners are fixed: the profile is applied to the wall, leveled along the lower edge, then vertically and screws are screwed in. The upper self-tapping screws on both sides of the profile are screwed not in the center of the hole, but in its upper part, otherwise the angle will shift downward under its own weight.

Step 4.

Decorate the window and door openings: screw on the inside of the opening the finishing profile, then the edge of the window strip is brought into it, which from the outside of the opening is fixed with self-tapping screws to the frame lintels. In the slopes, the edges are cut and bent in the form of "tongues", which, when the slopes are fastened, hide behind the window profile.

Step 5. A complex H-profile is installed at the joints of the ordinary panels. If simple profiles are used, they are installed on top of the sheathing.

Step 6 . Attach the first row of sheathing. Take the siding panel, lead its end into the corner profile, and the bottom edge into the bend of the initial plank. Then the panel is gently pulled up, aligned horizontally and fixed with self-tapping screws from the center to the edges. Be sure to leave 5-6 mm between adjacent panels for thermal expansion.

Step 7. Fasten the rows to the lower border of the window opening. Then they take the panel, in the upper part they make a cutout along the width of the opening, along the cut line they punch holes for fasteners. The panel is brought under the window profiles, screwed to the crate, the ebb is mounted on top.

Step 8 .

Before installing the last row along the eaves, a finishing profile is attached to the wall, the distance from the eaves to the penultimate row of sheathing is measured and the panels are cut in width. Mounting holes are punched along the upper edge, the panel is inserted into the lock of the previous row, and then inserted into the finishing profile and snapped into place.

Now all that remains is to hem the eaves and install the elements of the drainage system.

The described technology is suitable for both metal and vinyl siding, as well as for any profile configuration - double, triple or single.

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Video - Herringbone siding