Siding metal ship board - do-it-yourself detailed installation instructions

Siding is one of the best finishing materials: lightweight, easy to install, durable, with excellent external characteristics. It has many varieties, but the most popular can rightfully be called metal "ship board" siding. Such a coating gives any building a very neat, well-groomed appearance, and the combination of multi-colored panels allows you to make the facade unlike the others.

Siding "ship board"

Features and characteristics

Siding profile " boarding "imitates boarding: each panel has two wide waves, located one above the other, which after installation create the effect of overlapping boards. The impression is also enhanced by a pattern that exactly repeats the texture of sawn wood, however, it is not present in all siding options.

Budget models usually have a solid surface in different colors, and patterned siding is more expensive.

The texture of the siding "ship board"

The shape of the panels is not accidental: such a structure has greater mechanical resistance, excellent resistance to wind loads and provides better drainage. Like other metal models, the "ship board" is made by stamping from steel or aluminum sheets. The standard panel has a complex structure, consisting of several layers:

  • base of steel sheet 0.4-0.

    6 mm thick;

  • protective zinc coating on both sides of the sheet;
  • anti-corrosion oxide film;
  • a layer of special primer;
  • decorative coating;
  • polymer layer;
  • varnish coating.

The main difference between the "shipboard" models from different manufacturers is the composition and thickness of the polymer coating, which plays a key role in protecting the panels from external influences. Otherwise, the products are almost identical.

Scheme of metal siding "ship board"

Polymer coating options

Material Properties

Polyester (PE)

The most affordable type of coating, which forms a thin elastic film. Has a wide palette of colors.

Resistance to ultraviolet light and mechanical damage - medium, to bending deformation - high. Glossy PE has a lifespan of about 10-15 years

Matt polyester (PEMA)

A plastic coating containing Teflon. Forms a smooth matte surface, has a wide range of colors. Resistance to fading and mechanical damage is medium, to bending deformation - high. Service life is 15-20 years

Plastisol

Wear-resistant polymer, forming a relief texture.

It is resistant to aggressive substances, mechanical damage, corrosion. It tolerates negative temperatures perfectly, but when heated above +60 degrees, it sharply reduces performance.Average service life is 30 years

Polyurethane (pural)

Forms a smooth coating with increased resistance to abrasion, ultraviolet light, acid precipitation, temperature drops. Resistance to bending deformation is low. Service life - up to 30 years

PVDF

Composite polymer with added acrylic.

Forms a glossy surface or "metallic" coating, has the highest UV resistance. Not susceptible to mechanical damage, perfectly tolerates the effects of an aggressive environment, lasts about 50 years on average

Technical characteristics of the profile:

  • total panel width - 260 mm;
  • useful width - 226 mm;
  • profile height - 14 mm;
  • panel length - from 0.5 m to 6 m;
  • weight m2 - 4 kg;
  • color range - corresponds to the standard colors of the RAL table.

    Siding colors

Popular manufacturers

Siding "shipboard board "is produced by a large number of companies, both foreign and domestic. Since these products have been on the market for a long time, the quality of products of various brands has already been well tested by time, and individual manufacturers deservedly enjoy a high reputation among consumers.

Ruukki

This Finnish company is well known all over the world. Its metal siding is durable and has excellent performance characteristics. The manufacturer uses all five types of polymer coating, the range includes models with a smooth and textured surface, glossy shine, and matte effect.

Ruukki

Alcoa

An American company produces aluminum siding with high in demand. Such popularity is due to the combination of high quality with an affordable price and a wide variety of colors.

Aluminum siding is strong, durable, several times lighter than steel, looks very impressive.

Alcoa

Corus Group

The metal siding of this Anglo-Dutch concern corresponds the highest quality standards. The panels have a reliable protective coating and excellent appearance, the choice of models is very wide, including in price categories.

Metal siding of Corus Group

Grand Line

Domestic company, products which has been in stable demand for more than one year. Siding is made of galvanized steel, various types of coatings are used, the color range includes more than 50 options.

All panels are sold in a protective film, which ensures high safety of products during transportation.

Grand Line

Metal Profile

Also a domestic trade mark producing metal siding High Quality.In addition to the standard color scheme, the company offers models with imitation of natural wood - stained oak, pine, maple, as well as imitation of white stone. Additionally, siding with a metallic sheen is produced, the color palette of which includes 12 options.

Metal Profile

Siding prices

Siding

Siding installation technology

Thanks to the convenient fastening system, the installation of siding can be done by anyone who has basic skills in construction.

Such a coating is suitable for a wide variety of substrates - wood, brick, concrete, gas and foam blocks, shell rock and others. When creating a ventilated facade, you can use both metal and wooden battens, but metal is still preferable. Firstly, wood is subject to decay and deformation, secondly, it has a shorter service life, and thirdly, metal structures are much more reliable.

Installation of siding under a log

In most cases, installation of siding is performed with simultaneous insulation of the walls, since metal panels themselves reduce heat loss can not. For ease of installation, it is best to use insulation in the form of slabs, semi-rigid or rigid.

Scheme of cladding the house with siding

Preparation of the base

First of all, they are removed from the walls decorative elements, lighting devices, downpipes with fixtures, climbing plants are removed. Platbands should be removed from window and door openings. Then they clean off the exfoliated areas, dirt, dust, and carefully examine the surface for damage. If there are cracks, they must be expanded and filled with a thick cement-sand mortar. Surfaces prone to shedding should be completely plastered, areas covered with mold should be cleaned and treated with fungicides.

Walls that are strong, without visible defects do not need any processing.

Preparatory work

If the house is wooden, you need to check the integrity of the wood: rotten and rotten areas require mandatory replacement, since under siding processes the destruction will continue. Slightly damaged wood can be treated with special impregnations in 2 or 3 layers. This will stop rotting, provide reliable protection from insects and microorganisms.

Processing of a wooden facade

It is not necessary to specially align the walls for siding, mounting plates and pads for profiles will help to eliminate the differences.

The main thing is that the base should be dense, as strong as possible and absolutely dry. If mortar or plaster was used, wait until they are completely dry.

Prices for wood preservatives

Impregnation for wood

Tools and materials for installation

To independently perform siding cladding, you will need:

  • siding panels with additional elements;
  • fasteners - dowel-nails 8x100 mm, galvanized self-tapping screws 4.2x16 mm ;
  • L-shaped profile 0.9 mm thick;
  • insulation and windproof membrane;
  • scissors for metal;
  • drill with attachments;
  • building level and tape measure.

    Tools for installation

Important: you cannot use a grinder to cut panels, as it is damaged during cutting protective polymer layer. At first glance, these damages are insignificant and almost invisible, but they lead to the development of corrosion, which shortens the service life of the siding.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

Screwdrivers

Installation of battens

Siding "ship board" is intended for horizontal fastening, and therefore the crate is installed vertically.

Step 1. On the wall, with a distance of 3-4 cm from the corner, determine the vertical line according to the level and put marks for fastening the mounting hangers.

The distance between the suspensions is 40-50 cm, the upper fastener is located 10-15 cm below the upper edge of the wall, the lower one is 15 cm higher from the foundation or basement.

Installation of mounting hangers

Step 2. Mark the location of the remaining profiles also strictly in level. As a rule, the step of fastening the racks is equal to the width of the insulation plates, so it is much more convenient to mount them.

Step 3.

Drill holes in the marked points, insert dowels and fix the mounting hangers. Install the corner profiles so that they are strictly in the same plane. It is very easy to adjust the vertical with the help of suspensions. To simplify further installation, a strong thread is pulled along the lower and upper edges between the corner posts. The remaining profiles are mounted, and then along the lower and upper edges, all the racks are connected with a horizontal profile.

Installation of the battens

Thermal insulation of walls

The insulation begins to be fastened from bottom to top, inserting plates between the racks of the crate. Plates should be placed very tightly, without gaps, so that cold bridges do not form. Mineral wool does not require additional fixation, but when choosing foam or polystyrene, you need to stock up on plastic umbrella dowels, which will ensure a reliable fit of the insulation to the wall. You will need approximately 8 dowels per square meter of area. The gaps formed during operation are eliminated with polyurethane foam.

Thermal insulation for siding

Advice. The thickness of the insulation should be 2-4 cm less than the thickness of the lathing.This is necessary so that an air gap remains between the casing and the thermal insulation layer, otherwise condensation will accumulate on the insulation.

Prices for mineral wool

Mineral wool

Paneling

If there is a protective film on the panels, it is recommended to remove it before attaching the siding to the wall The fact is that when heated by sunlight, the film slightly melts and sticks tightly to the surface of the panels. After that, it is quite difficult to remove it, but you cannot leave it - such a casing looks sloppy.

If the length of the panels does not match the width of the walls, you must first cut the material. To do this, measure the working area, calculate how many panels are needed, measure the required length of siding and carefully cut off the excess. Now you can start trimming.

Step 1. Along the bottom line of the frame, screw the starting plate with self-tapping screws.

It should be located strictly horizontally - the horizontalness of the entire coating depends on it. Through special holes, the bar is screwed to each vertical profile along the perimeter of the facade.

An example of installing a starting strip

Step 2. If you use corner profiles of complex shape, you need them mount immediately after the starting plate. This also applies to complex connecting profiles.

They are applied vertically to the racks, set in level and screwed with self-tapping screws in increments of 20-30 cm.

Mounting the corner profile

Mounting of the internal corner profile

Next, the slope strips are attached along the perimeter of window and door openings - they are mounted directly on the frame itself. In conclusion, the end plate is screwed close to the cornice.

Fastening the strips of the window opening

Step 3. The first panel is brought into the lock of the starting strip, the side the edges into the corner profiles and snap into place.

Next, screws are inserted into the holes and the panel is fixed. It is impossible to tighten the self-tapping screws all the way, there should be a gap of 1-1.5 mm between the fasteners and the metal. This will help to avoid deformation of the skin due to thermal expansion.

Siding fixing

Step 4.

The rest of the panels are mounted in the same way, moving from bottom to top. Each strip is carefully leveled before being fixed to the batten to avoid distortions. The upper panel, if necessary, is cut in width, inserted into the lock of the previous panel, snapped into place, and the upper edge is brought into the bend of the end plate.

Mounting the rest of the siding panels

Step 5. If simple corner and connecting profiles are selected, they are attached after installing the panels on the front side of the casing.

To fix them, use galvanized self-tapping screws with seals. Self-tapping screws are screwed on both sides of the additional element in a checkerboard pattern. The fixing step is 40-50 cm.

Galvanized self-tapping screws with a seal are used

Advice. Fasteners should be selected according to the color of the siding, then the caps of the screws will not stand out against the background of the cladding.

Steel screws or nails should not be used, as after the first rain, rusty streaks will appear on the skin.

Step 6. When the corners and joints are closed, you can start installing the slopes, platbands and ebbs. They are fastened in the same way as other siding elements, they must be set according to the level.

In general, metal siding is done exactly like vinyl siding.

Before starting work, you need to carefully read the instructions, since for some manufacturers the installation of panels may have separate design features.

House finished with siding "ship board"

Video - Siding metal ship board

Video - Installation of siding profile

Video - Installation of siding panels

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