Step-by-step installation of a door into a plasterboard partition: Overview + Video

Step-by-step installation of a door into a plasterboard partition: Overview + Video Step-by-step installation of the door into the plasterboard partition. Method number 1 - installing a standard door. If your apartment has a regular door leaf on hinges, then this method is suitable in order to learn how to install a door into a plasterboard partition.

Please note that all the subtleties of creating a wireframe will not be described, as it is discussed in a separate article. There is only one nuance - jumpers should be installed in the lintels and the profile along the perimeter of the opening, which will strengthen it and put in a wooden bar with a section of 4.

5 * 4. 5 cm. This will make it possible to create a rigid structure and fix the box in the opening as best as possible.

Details of the first method

The creation of a doorway in a partition made of drywall is done with wooden blocks. At the time of ordering the door, it would be wise to use a service such as frame assembly and hinge / latch cutting.

It is possible to do it yourself (in theory), but without special devices it is much more difficult. It will be much easier and faster to use already made elements.

Tools and devices

In addition to the doors themselves, you will need the following components:

  1. Polyurethane foam. It will need to be used to secure the door frame, as well as to fill the mounting joint in the opening. As a rule, no more than one cylinder is consumed per door.

    You can use both household products and professional ones.

  2. Self-tapping screws (for wood). They will be required in order to fix the box to the opening. As a rule, three self-tapping screws are used for one door, and their length should be such that it would be enough to pass through the beam and the box, which is fixed along the entire perimeter. As a rule, self-tapping screws with a length of 10-12 cm are used.

  3. Wedges for mounting the door leaf. They can be made by hand, for this you just need to cut the elements from the waste boards. There is an option of buying finished plastic products, especially since there is no difference, so just use what is more convenient for you.
  4. Screwdriver. It is useful for drilling holes in a box.

    Such a tool is also used to screw in self-tapping screws, and for this you must have a PH 2 bit. It is an indispensable tool for installing a door leaf.

  5. Building level (length should be 0. 6 meters), tape measure, pencil, ruler.
  6. Crowbar and hammer.

  7. Construction knife.
  8. Foam gun (only required when using professional foam). It is the gun that will help to quickly apply the composition much faster, and also many times more economically.

Now let's look at how to perform the installation.

Installation process

Installation of an interior door into a plasterboard partition is performed as follows:

  • First you need to install the box in the opening.

    It should be placed on the required side of the opening and first fixed with two wedges on the sides. Check that nothing interferes with the location of the structure, and there are no shortcomings that have not been taken into account.

  • Structures should be placed against the wall. To do this, the box will need to be shifted to one of the wall planes from the convenient side of the partition. It is leveled using a building level, and along the entire perimeter.

    If the walls are uneven, then you will need to expose the structures in the most protruding areas.

  • Drive wedges over the uprights. When fixing the box, the level should be constantly checked, and this is required so that the structure does not move in any way and is not deformed due to the high load. This arrangement of spacers will help prevent the top of the box from bending during attachment.

  • Fix the box with self-tapping screws on the side of the door hanging.

    To do this, it is required to drill holes with a diameter of 0.4 cm at the location of the future hinges, and then insert self-tapping screws into the holes and screw into the profile and the bar under it. It is not required to tighten until the end of the fastening.

  • Insert a wooden wedge between the opening and the box near the attachment point. It is inserted in such a way that everything is level.

    When installing the wedges, check the position with a building level. When the spacers are exposed, the screws should be screwed in to the end.

  • After fastening, the position of each plane of the box should be checked again. Believe me, it is better to check once again than at the end to understand that there is a distortion in the workflow and you will have to do all the work in a new way.
  • The joint in the place where the hinges will be hung should be filled with polyurethane foam (from the inside).

    This is required in order for the structure to be strengthened before the canvas is installed. It should be evenly and carefully put the composition from bottom to top.

  • Apply foam from the side of the latch, not in a thick layer, but in a dotted line. This is required in order to be able to align the wall in the future if it is deformed for some reason.
  • Replace the canvas and screw on the top hinge.

    In order for the door to be installed evenly, during fastening, you should place a block of wood under it or ask an assistant for help. Next, screw in all the screws and fix the connection as best as possible.

  • Lower buttonhole setting. To accurately position the door leaf, it will be easiest to put a spacer, and then place a pry bar on it and adjust the door until there is a perfect match with the cutout for the curtain mount.
  • Attach the bottom loop.

    To fix it in the desired position, first you need to screw in the lower and upper self-tapping screws, and then remove the mount and finish fixing the curtain.

  • Check door position. To do this, you need to attach the building level directly to the end of the canvas, and everything should be perfect.
  • Attach the box where the latch will be located. To do this, first check the level of the plumb side in the structure and, if required, make corrections.

    After that, a wedge should be inserted near the attachment point between the box and the opening and tamped down. It remains only to screw in the self-tapping screw, and on this the process of fastening the box can be considered dead.

  • Re-foaming the structure. Now you can apply the composition around the entire perimeter from the inside and outside. All voids should be filled in order to get an excellent box attachment.

  • Measure the distance from the box to the plane of the walls. This will require a building level and a ruler. How to correctly measure is shown in the photo. If for some reason the plane is uneven, then the most concave and protruding section should be determined. Next, take the average and get the extension width.

  • Insert the extensions into the grooves. The elements should be cut to a certain width and length, and then carefully inserted into the grooves. In addition, you do not need to fix anything, since the dobos will hold on tightly anyway.

Please note, that before installing the extensions, you should check all the grooves around the perimeter to remove any existing debris and cured particles of polyurethane foam from them.

  • To install the door in a plasterboard box, fix the extensions, which must be locked with wedges in the corners and then foam everything.

    The process is simple - after the wedges are installed between the finish and the wall, apply polyurethane foam with a dotted line. It is better not to blow a lot of composition into the gap, since when expanding, it will simply bend the extensions inward.

  • The door can be used. Excess foam can be cut off around the entire perimeter, and then you can start painting the wall, plastering or pasting with wallpaper canvases. And only at the end you can install the platband.

Method number 2 - installing sliding doors

This type of installation was created relatively recently, and for this reason most craftsmen simply do not know how to perform installation work in fact, everything is much simpler than it seems, and we propose to analyze the workflow together.

Tools and devices

For work you will need:

  1. Door leaf. You should choose the option without box, hinges and handles, only the door of the desired width.
  2. Set of fasteners for sliding doors. In such a set, there are usually two rollers, a rail, fasteners to the door, and also a lower rail and a floor-type stopper.

    The price of one set ranges from 1400 to 1700 rubles.

Please note, that during the selection of a set, you should pay attention to what load this or that set of fasteners is designed for. Buy only the right options for your doors.

  1. Partition profile for drywall. It is advisable to use a wall profile with a section of 5 * 4 cm and a supporting profile with a section of 5 * 5 cm.

    The number of guides should be calculated along the entire perimeter of the wall. The main elements should be located in increments of 0.4 meters, and based on this condition, you can easily calculate the number of guides, and then multiply the result by two, since there will be two partitions.

  2. Drywall. It is better to use the wall version, the thickness of which will be 0.

    125 cm. If there is a drop in humidity in the room, then it would be a good decision to buy a moisture-resistant material (it has a characteristic green color).

  3. Wooden bar. To reinforce the uprights, use 4.5 * 4 wood members.

    5 cm, and in order to fix the door rails, you will need a bar, the thickness of which will be 0.5 cm more than the thickness of the door leaf. It turns out that you should choose an element for installing a compartment door in a plasterboard partition when you know exactly what the parameters are at the door.

  4. Sound insulation material. It will be easiest to use acoustic mineral wool, which is 5 cm thick.

    It will be embedded in the frame so that the partition is soundproofed.

  5. Fiberboard. It will be required in order to cover the inner surface of the partition and will serve as an additional material for sound insulation.
  6. Punch. You will need it to drill holes in the floor, wall and ceiling when installing the plasterboard frame.

    A drill must be included with the hammer drill, and its diameter must necessarily correspond to the size of the dowel used for quick installation.

  7. Screwdriver. Since it will be necessary to screw in a sufficiently large number of self-tapping screws, you will need to stock up on several nozzles RN 2 , since wear will depend on the intensity of use.
  8. Pencil, building level, tape measure.
  9. Metal shears to cut metal profiles.

  10. The construction knife is useful when cutting drywall, mineral wool and fiberboard.
  11. A hacksaw is needed for cutting timber from wood.

And now let's look at the process itself.

Installation work

Installation work for the door unit is performed as follows:

First, fix the wall profile, and for this, you first need to mark the outer line of the partition, and then drill holes for quick installation dowels and put the elements at the attachment point, and then fix them on the surface.

  • Next, set up vertical racks.

    They are placed every 0.4 meters. To begin with, each element should be aligned and level, and then fastened to the guide profile. For work, it is recommended to use self-tapping bugs, 2-3 elements are required on each side.

  • Insert a block into the profile.

    Here you should adhere to such recommendations - so that the tree does not deteriorate, it is better to put it in helmets of 0.5-1 meter. Also, screw the wood to the profile with self-tapping screws, the length of which is 25 cm. To make the structure rigid over the entire area, reinforce all the racks.

  • Fasten a lintel above the opening.

    It must necessarily be located 5 cm higher than the future line for placing the door leaf. It can also be reinforced with a wooden block in order to create a solid structure and create a place for fastening the structure.

  • Cover the inner surface of the partition with fiberboard. The material should be attached with self-tapping screws every 0.2-0.

    3 measure. You can also fasten it in pieces, but the main thing is that the entire surface is covered.

  • Acoustic mineral wool should be laid on the outside of the frame. Try to place the material tighter in all gaps. To do this, it needs to be cut 102 cm wider than required, and then everything will become dense over the surface.

  • Step-by-step installation of a door into a plasterboard partition: Overview + Video We sheathe the outer surface with plasterboard. Here the process will be no different from the standard version of the work. There is only such a nuance - the vertical joint of the sheets should not in any case pass along the line of the opening, since otherwise a crack will be created during operation.
  • Install a block to secure the guide. To do this, markings should be made 4 cm above the door, and then cut off the desired length of the bar and attach to each rack with screws.

    To install a door in a plasterboard partition, it is better to take a bar along the entire length of the wall, and not along one length of the guide, and then the system will be stiffer, etc.

  • A guide should be attached to the bottom of the block. Its location should be optimal in relation to the opening and the instructions will prompt the installation features. It contains all the diagrams and descriptions of the most important stages that you cannot do without.
  • Attach the block to the walls for security.

    To do this, use metal corners, which should be selected according to the width of the bar.

  • A rail should be attached to the lower ends of the door. This will be a strip of rigid polymer, which will create a straight-line movement of the web and fix it in the desired position. Fastening should be done with self-tapping screws included in the delivery set.
  • Install the roller mounts on the upper end.

    Screw in two holders with screws at a distance of 10 cm from the edge (the value sometimes differs, everything is written in the instructions). Remember that such fasteners will account for the entire mass of the door, therefore the minimum permissible length of self-tapping screws is 4 cm.

  • Hang the canvas on the guide.Check that everything works, the door should slide easily along the entire length of the rail. Install a stopper on the floor to help limit the movement of the belt to the selected point.

  • Place the second frame on top of the structure. Due to the bar, you will definitely be able to determine the indent from the first structure, and you will be able to set the partition as accurately as possible. Please note that you can not insert the bars into the profile, since there is no load from the door leaf in such a partition.
  • Sheathe the top with a layer of drywall. In addition, the slopes on both sides of the door leaf will have to be sheathed.

    It is important that the final framing is smooth and neat so that the sliding door does not cling to the material and can easily walk.

  • At the end there should be a few mm for the gap so that the elements do not rub against each other and can provide a beautiful appearance for the opening.

This completes the installation, and now you can fully enjoy the fruits of your labor.

Conclusion

Now you will find out what there are two simple ways to install a door in a plasterboard partition. Both the first and second options are suitable even for those who have no experience in installing doors.

The video under the article will help you figure out all the nuances.

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