What if blowing between the window and the plastic sill? Great ways to solve the problem

What if blowing between the window and the plastic sill? Great ways to solve the problem Blowing between the window and the plastic window sill - ways to solve the problem

Window openings are the main source of heat loss in the house. If they do not have tightness, then the room will quickly cool down, and the apartment's heating bills will become even higher. Let's talk about what to do when the windows are blowing.

It usually takes less than an hour to fix the problem.

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kiev. ua / werzalit-en

General information

How to find the problem area?

Before starting for insulation, all weak points should be reliably identified. Otherwise, the work will need to be redone, and possibly more than once.

Let's list the problems that can occur most often:

  • The bead does not fit snugly.
  • The pins do not press the sash well against the frame.

  • The sealing strip is worn out.
  • The tightness of the foam seams is broken.

To be able to find a specific blowing point, it will be enough to hold the back of your hand along the entire perimeter of the frame, sashes, slopes and under the windowsill. In places where there is depressurization, air circulation will be felt. If you get your hand wet, the sensitivity will increase and you can easily notice even small gaps that need to be repaired.

For a visual assessment, try using a lighter or matches. If it comes through in some place, then the flame will begin to deviate from the vertical. To avoid a fire, you must never bring fire to curtains or other items that are flammable.

Please note that the intensity of drafts can always be different. It will blow hardest from cracks in windy weather, as well as with large temperature differences between the room and the outdoor space.

For this reason, it is worth looking for problem areas at this time.

Why do drafts appear in the window?

To know exactly what to do if it is blowing from a plastic window, you should understand in detail all Possible malfunctions:

  • What if blowing between the window and the plastic sill? Great ways to solve the problem The sealing rubber is worn out. This reason is the most popular, and therefore the most probable. The service life of the new rubber will be 10 years, provided that regular maintenance is carried out. Without maintenance, the rubber bands will last no more than 5 years.

  • The hardware is worn out. The trunnions will have a Winter and Summer position that is designed for seasonal material deformation. If you leave them on the vestibule to the maximum, then the resource of the mechanism will decrease. At the first stage, such a skew can be eliminated through adjustment.
  • Violation of the editing technology.

    Draft often occurs when the foam seam breaks.If the composition was applied to a dusty wall, then after a short time interval it will begin to recede. The material not covered with the cover strip will crumble in the sun. The most flagrant violation of technology is the absence of a closed loop from a layer of insulation.

  • Shrinkage of the building.

    If you have blowing between the window and the sill, then the problem may be precisely the shrinkage. This moment is more typical for new buildings. In the first years after construction, the foundation will always subside a little, and if this happens unevenly, distortions will begin to appear.

  • Blowing slopes. Adjacencies to window blocks must create a single thermal insulation contour.

    It is better to entrust their device to real professionals, since otherwise there is a high risk of cracks and cracks.

When the cause is established, it is worth talking about how to deal with the problem.

How to deal with the problem

How to fix the problem? Options

Most of the problems can be solved even by hand. But still, there are two cases when it is better to entrust the work to experienced craftsmen:

  • The product is under warranty. If you discover any defects during the warranty period, then all work should be carried out either with the consent of the craftsmen, or with the help of employees of the installer.

    Self-intervention sometimes leads to the fact that in the future you will be denied warranty service, that is, any repair work will be paid.

  • Thermal insulation (from the street side). If you live in a multi-storey pulp, then work on the restoration of external slopes will need to be performed at a height. Residents on the first floors can use a stepladder, and if the apartment is higher than the second floor, then it will be necessary to carry out work from an open window opening, and this is extremely dangerous without proper preparation.

For those who make their own troubleshooting, we have prepared step-by-step instructions for each type of malfunction.

Window vestibule

Eccentrics, which mesh with the corresponding strips, will be responsible for the tightness of the vestibule of the sash to the frame. Installers by default will leave them in a neutral position, but when cold weather or strong gusty winds occur, such a pressure is not always enough, so you need to perform the installation yourself.

There are trunnions on the side that must be adjusted to get the desired result.

They have three positions:

  • Neutral - is set at the manufacturer's factory. The mark (in the form of a tick or dot) must be located along the vertical axis.

  • Winter - the mark on the trunnion will be turned towards the elastic. In this position, you will get maximum pressure.
  • Summer - points (mark) will be facing the street. This way you can loosen the pressure for the summer period, which will increase the service life of the rubber bands.

The pins are turned using a No.

4 hex key, a screwdriver or an asterisk. There will be several of them around the entire perimeter, but the exact number will depend on the size of the valves. When a building shrinks or structural elements begin to sag over time, you may experience skewing of parts relative to each other. It should be eliminated by adjusting the hinges. You will see more details on how to do this in the video.


This problem is quite rare and is mostly a factory defect. Between the frame and the sill of the plastic window, it blows much more often. For this reason, if you still have a valid warranty, then you should contact the installers. There are several types of defects. As a rule, glazing beads simply do not meet the required dimensions.

If its length is less than required, then gaps will appear at the corners at the joints. When the part is longer than planned, then it will not sit well and bulge. Such a defect most often manifests itself during the operational process. An installed clamping bar with excessive tension will snap off during thermal expansion.

In any case, the glazing bead will need to be replaced.

To do this, you will need to buy a new clamping bar from a window company and cut it to size in place. The cut at an angle can be easily done with a miter box and a hacksaw. It is possible to shorten the old long rail, but it will not work. Most often, it is immediately deformed. And even if not, it will be difficult to neatly cut it by a few millimeters.


If using the adjustments described above, you cannot fix the problem, then it means that the sealing rubber is worn out. In this case, you will be able to see such defects - wiping, loss of elasticity and wrinkles. New rubber should be selected according to the sample or according to the type of profile system.

The replacement should be carried out in the following sequence:

  1. Open the leaf by the handle.
  2. In the corner, pry the sealant and pull it all the way around until you reach the top hinge.

  3. Move the sash to the "ventilation" position.
  4. Pull out the rest of the sealing rubber.
  5. Thoroughly clean and rinse the installation slot.
  6. The start of the new rubber should be positioned at the top center. Walk around the perimeter completely and the contour should be uniform.

    At the same time, it is necessary not to allow excessive tension of the NGO at the corners.

  7. Where the joint will be, the rubber should be cut without excessive overlap or tension.
  8. Pull out both ends of the elastic. Apply a couple of drops of "Minute" or "Moment" glue to the lower parts and install back.

Be sure to replace the second sealing loop that will be on the frame.

The principle of operation will be the same.

Please note that the described method is suitable for tilt-and-turn opening.For repair work on standard pivoting windows, you will need to remove the sash in advance.


In addition, cold air can come even from under the window sill or the junction of the window sill and the lower frame profile. Both defects will indicate a violation when creating a foam seam.

When creating a new building, installers will save foam, and large gaps will be clogged with construction waste. The best solution would be to dismantle the window sill and reinstall it after thoroughly foaming the seam. In this case, it will be necessary to break the lower part of the slopes and restore after repair work. For this reason, this method is rarely used. To get by with fewer "victims", the work should be done in this way, and then you will no longer be bothered by such a problem as blowing between the window and the sill.

Work order:

  1. What if blowing between the window and the plastic sill? Great ways to solve the problem Break up the plaster layer under the windowsill at a height of 5 to 10 cm.
  2. Clean polyurethane foam and various construction debris from the seam. Leave only the bars for the stand on which the window sill lies.
  3. Thoroughly thread the seam through to the full depth.
  4. After the material is cured, restore the plaster and wallpaper.

Note that the foam begins to expand as it cures. To prevent the window sill from rising up, something heavy should be installed on it.

Interestingly, that if the work is performed at negative temperatures, then you should use a special frost-resistant polyurethane foam.

This method is suitable only if the depth of the windowsills is very small. If it is more than 25 cm, then it will be extremely difficult to get to the frame mounting plane.

In special cases, defects can be eliminated even from the street side.


If a good fit of the rubber bands is ensured, the only possible defects will be damage to the slopes. There is practically no blowing in the plastered abutments. Let's take a look at how to repair prefabricated slopes on sandwich panels.

First, dismantle:

  1. What if blowing between the window and the plastic sill? Great ways to solve the problem Remove the outer framing corners or window profiles.

  2. Using a long knife or wood saw, cut the foam seam around its entire perimeter.
  3. Remove the panels.
  4. Clean the remaining foam from the plastic and the wall.

After dismantling work, you will see the quality of the installation of the window unit. You can evaluate it visually, and then set the points through which air will enter the apartment.

Remove the remnants of the old foam in them and drink it all over again.

Please note that a draft may appear due to cracks in the wall under the plastic panels. If you find them, then the damaged areas should be expanded, primed, and then repaired with a primer solution.

The field of filling problem areas will restore the slopes.The problem may lie in the fact that it can be not only from the inside, but also from the outside of the finish.

In urban areas, the outer slopes will be formed by a quarter in reinforced concrete panels or masonry. But between the walls and the PVC window profiles, there will always be a foam expansion joint.

The most common mistake in this case is creating an improper seal. Installers simply do not cover the foam, they leave it in direct sunlight. Over time, it begins to deteriorate and crumble.

The damaged junction unit can be corrected using:

  1. With a spatula or knife, remove the layer of insulation from the gap.
  2. Re-thread the seam.
  3. After the composition is completely dry, cut off all of its protruding parts.
  4. Close the gap with a strip or plaster.

Here are the main faults that can be removed by hand.

You have learned how to adjust plastic windows, what to do when windows are blowing, and how to fix them when small defects appear. Consider a few more tips to help keep your home warm.

Refinement of the glass unit

Modern two-chamber systems help to reliably protect the house from freezing of any force. The energy efficiency of old frames will lag far behind them. Elimination of such a disadvantage will require a complete replacement of the glazing, which will be very expensive.

A budgetary way to solve the problem is to use a special thermal film.

It must be installed on the PVC profile in the following sequence:

  1. Thoroughly wash the glass and frame.
  2. Glue double-sided tape around the perimeter of the glazing beads with a single loop.
  3. Peel off the top protective strip from the tape, and then stick the tape.
  4. Cut off any excess with a utility knife.

  5. Heat the fabric until the creases are completely smoothed out.

Thermal film is able to create an additional sealing chamber, which will accumulate heat and reduce thermal conductivity. It will maintain light transmission and remain virtually invisible.

Modern ways of saving energy

Technology does not stand still, and instead of increasing the number of chambers, increasing their volume and using other, expensive fillers, specialists decided to pay attention to cheaper solutions. Due to the application of a special spraying, they create multifunctional glasses, and from the inside they create a barrier for thermal energy, that is, they will reflect it back.

Lightweight tinted film is able to trap ultraviolet rays and prevent the room from overheating in the heat. In addition, light transmission will be perfectly maintained. An innovative development that has become much more popular is heated glass. On loggias and balconies, they can be used instead of heating radiators.

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